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The list of objectively stupid poo poo I've done to bieks is...lengthy.
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Jul 30, 2015 22:04
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Gorson posted:Every motorcycle I've sold the buyer comes with a trailer and proceeds to wrench down the front end of the bike to the point where the lower triple is right above the top of the forks. You can almost hear the seals screaming for mercy. Your bike now, hoss. I noticed that dirt bike folks tend to know how to strap down a bike. Street bike folks: MUST MAXIMUM SECURE, MORE STRAPS I NEED MORE STRAPS.
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Jul 30, 2015 22:08
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clutchpuck posted:Future reference: you only really need to compress the front suspension down a bit with straps, not even to the stop. You don't even really need to secure the rear. When I haul in my pickup I secure one over the back but just for show because our state patrol like to trump up citations. That's what I normally do. Unfortunately the bike was the last thing to go in the truck for ~*~*~*long and boring reasons*~*~*~ and I could only anchor the front at one point, and of course I was very careful not to overdo it. It never even crossed my mind that tying the rear down was a bad idea. Oh well, live and learn. At least I make most of my mistakes off the bike instead of riding it.  Marv Hushman posted:Those who preach are often the biggest hypocrites.* No worries  ! I know I have a long way to go and plenty more to learn still. I just wish my mistakes were cheaper. 
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Jul 30, 2015 22:10
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Angryboot posted:Get a 690 duke in that case. Or better yet, get Sanchezz' duke if it's still for sale since I didn't. Yeah, this! Recent pics in the riding game thread.. also it's less than 9k! Coydog posted:I wish the superduke was like 9k so I could be irresponsible and nab one...
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Jul 30, 2015 23:39
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If it was less than 9k it wouldn't be worth owning cause then all you plebs would have one.
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Jul 31, 2015 01:08
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I tightened the rear shock up and went for a ride. Bike feels kinda sluggish and crappy right now, but I don't know if that's because it sat for a week or if it's in my head. Gonna give it a few more rides before I decide for sure what's up.
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Jul 31, 2015 03:31
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Dutymode posted:But they're fine on the high-revving Ninja. I'd think they'd be fine on V-twins and such. Even if you'd have to check them more often they're way more approachable. Yeah I don't honestly know. Probably weight and space constraints. I have seen a number of tappets pop out of those ninjas, and I personally had an adjuster nut back off and get stuck in the valve spring of my Honda. Also the pucks require far less adjustment. Depending on the bike they're good anywhere from 5 to 15k between I ordered a new petcock for the cb125. Seals alone were like $2 less than just buying a whole new one with the seals included. Go figure.
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Jul 31, 2015 04:20
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captainOrbital posted:If you preach enough, eventually you become a hypocrite by default. Mods, namechange please and thank you.
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Jul 31, 2015 08:19
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KARMA! posted:Mods, namechange please and thank you. Bit over the username size limit, but it'd make a good rename for almost any of the threads in CA.
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Jul 31, 2015 16:44
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I feel my Duke's (hydraulic) clutch grabs way too late, but the only adjustment is a pin you can screw out of the lever, which moves it even further from the bars. Is my only solution to buy a differently-shaped clutch lever?
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Aug 2, 2015 11:29
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High Protein posted:I feel my Duke's (hydraulic) clutch grabs way too late, but the only adjustment is a pin you can screw out of the lever, which moves it even further from the bars. Is my only solution to buy a differently-shaped clutch lever? Get some Pazzo levers on there so you can adjust to your heart's content.
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Aug 2, 2015 13:38
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High Protein posted:I feel my Duke's (hydraulic) clutch grabs way too late, but the only adjustment is a pin you can screw out of the lever, which moves it even further from the bars. Is my only solution to buy a differently-shaped clutch lever? My Monster sort of has the same issue, but before you buy anything, are you absolutely sure it's all the way in? That seems kind of insane. One time, I accidentally hosed around with it at a parking lot and I found that backing the adjustment out all the way basically allowed me to make it so I couldn't even fully engage the clutch. Even a hard 100% pull would still have the clutch dragging along. I would think that your Duke would be capable of doing the same thing. If the Duke still has an absurd pull and the clutch lever is adjusted all the way inward, I'm pretty sure there's a bigger issue at hand here, like possibly some incorrectly installed components. KTM is a pretty good bike manufacturer, I'm certain they wouldn't send a bike with that severe of a tolerance issue.
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Aug 2, 2015 14:57
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It's not a tolerance problem, it's just how the levers are OEM - non adjustable levers mean you're at the mercy of the shape of the OEM clutch lever to determine distance from the bar. All hydraulic clutches should engage at the end, if they don't there is something wrong with the system.
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Aug 2, 2015 17:42
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I have a dumb question. I was lubricating my drive chain today, using some rag I found in my kitchen. Afterwards I noticed some of the rag's dye came off with my oil. Is this gonna damage my chain or anything?
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Aug 2, 2015 18:17
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I have a '04 KTM LC4 640. I recently did a partial engine rebuild. The damage to my engine started with the flywheel, sprag-clutch, stator, etc. All of which ate themselves and clogged my oil pump. I decided to omit the electric start components from my engine, because they caused the damage in the first place, and replacing them would have run me an extra 350 euros. I just replaced the stator and flywheel and now my bike is kick-start only. Well now my battery is dying, and I want to replace it with something small and light. I figure there's no point in replacing it with another big brick when it doesn't have an electric start. My ignition system needs to have at least some electric power to start the engine, even with the kick-starter. Anybody have an idea what I might be able to use? Would it be OK to wire in a non-motorcycle specific lithium-ion battery?
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Aug 2, 2015 18:40
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WildWanderer posted:I have a '04 KTM LC4 640. Hmm... some electrical systems (mostly older CDI ignitions, but also some reg/recs) can be damaged by, or can damage, batteries that have significantly different internal resistance from the lead-acid ones they're designed for, and bike-specific lithium batteries are designed with that in mind. I'd also be very nervous about anything not designed for motorbike use because of the heat, vibration, and possible water impingement problems, especially given lithium's reaction to overcharging (here's a hint: bang). I'd go for a lithium specifically designed for the purpose if I were you. It'll probably cost you a bit more but will be much safer (and easier) in the long run.
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Aug 2, 2015 20:46
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Yeah, anything you get from a hobby shop is going to lack the requisite magic circuitry to make it happy with the sort of frequent charge/discharge cycles you get on a bike, and will either die quickly or explode due to overcharge.
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Aug 2, 2015 21:04
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Pie Colony posted:I have a dumb question. I was lubricating my drive chain today, using some rag I found in my kitchen. Afterwards I noticed some of the rag's dye came off with my oil. Is this gonna damage my chain or anything? No, unless you've doused the rag in ethanol previously. Then maybe a little bit. Maybe.
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Aug 3, 2015 10:52
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Can someone recommend saddlebags appropriate for a 4 day tour?
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Aug 4, 2015 16:07
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http://www.moskomoto.com/collections/all/products/reckless-80l If you're only taking saddlebags, that's a good option. Otherwise, maybe a 40L Kriega+backpack?
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Aug 4, 2015 23:45
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Ortlieb saddle bags and a Rack pack of what size you feel is right  Both are though and waterproof. There is no smaller outside pockets though, but the saddle bags are designed to be opened when on the bike with 3 quick buckles.
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Aug 5, 2015 11:38
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Supradog posted:Rack Pack Good name for a sports bra.
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Aug 5, 2015 14:15
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How often do you all find yourself adjusting your chain tension? I did mine down to 20mm of play about 1500 miles ago at the same time I replaced it, and it's now at about 40mm (possibly more, haven't measured it with anything but my fingers yet). I didn't change the sprockets when I did the chain fwiw
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Aug 5, 2015 18:53
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You're supposed to adjust the chain every few rides right after replacing it. I didn't know that either and went almost 3k without an adjustment. Oops!
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Aug 5, 2015 18:57
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Every day. I do a quick tension adjustment, check tire pressure, blinkers, brake lights, pad wear, headlight brightness and aiming, do a quick valve clearance check, chemically check the gasoline, bleed the brakes a bit, do some oil and coolant cycling, and make sure the bolts for the passenger pegs are tight enough. It takes me a couple hours to get going, but it's really worth it in peace of mind.
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Aug 5, 2015 18:59
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captainOrbital posted:Every day. I do a quick tension adjustment, check tire pressure, blinkers, brake lights, pad wear, headlight brightness and aiming, do a quick valve clearance check, chemically check the gasoline, bleed the brakes a bit, do some oil and coolant cycling, and make sure the bolts for the passenger pegs are tight enough. You used the wrong account, Z3n.
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Aug 5, 2015 19:09
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If you aren't changing your tires every ride, you ain't riding hard enough.
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Aug 5, 2015 19:16
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M42 posted:You're supposed to adjust the chain every few rides right after replacing it. I didn't know that either and went almost 3k without an adjustment. Oops! You don't weigh enough to really do a whole lot of damage. It's only oops when you have an aluminum sprocket and wind up sheering/bending teeth . I'm sure you didn't hurt anything.
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Aug 5, 2015 19:38
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Guess I'll have to buy a paddock stand then, since my centre's busted. gently caress knows where I'll keep it though, the garage is crowded enough already. Hmph. 
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Aug 5, 2015 19:46
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how um... how do I get my bike on the center stand? I'm not weak or anything but I feel like I'm gonna pull the thing over before it gets up
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Aug 5, 2015 20:00
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As it's rocking back onto the center stand, transfer your weight from the foot that's on the ground, to the foot that's on the centerstand peg. Doesn't take strength/weight, just technique.GnarlyCharlie4u posted:You don't weigh enough to really do a whole lot of damage. Oh yeah, not worried about it. It was just a d'oh moment. M42 fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Aug 5, 2015 |
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Aug 5, 2015 20:12
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Renaissance Robot posted:Guess I'll have to buy a paddock stand then, since my centre's busted. gently caress knows where I'll keep it though, the garage is crowded enough already. Hmph. Or if you want to go ghetto, 2 socket extensions and 2 jack stands.
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Aug 5, 2015 21:55
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u wot m8 Seriously, I have no idea what that means. I did see a video suggesting it was possible to jam a bit of wood under the swingarm to get the rear wheel up though, which I might be tempted to try.
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Aug 5, 2015 22:11
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I stuck a broom through the rear axle and used the rearstand for the RC8 when I needed to do poo poo on the duke... proper stands on order now though.
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Aug 5, 2015 22:14
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A MIRACLE posted:how um... how do I get my bike on the center stand? I'm not weak or anything but I feel like I'm gonna pull the thing over before it gets up
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Aug 5, 2015 23:04
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Renaissance Robot posted:u wot m8 Place a socket extensions through the right side hub and put a jack stand underneath (opposite the kickstand) rock the bike to the right until it is up right, then put the other extension in on the left side of the hub and slide a jacket and underneath it and boom your rear tire is elevated and the bike is upright. You probably need a second person to do this.
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Aug 5, 2015 23:37
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Oh, you're not supposed to sit on it lol
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Aug 6, 2015 00:43
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Please record yourself trying to do this.
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Aug 6, 2015 00:55
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nsaP posted:Please record yourself trying to do this. Seconding this.
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Aug 6, 2015 01:06
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 06:32 |
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A MIRACLE posted:Oh, you're not supposed to sit on it lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9h14bTrdZQ
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Aug 6, 2015 03:30
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