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Some questions from a soon-to-be bike rider. How well do leather jackets cope in the situations where you have to ride in rain wearing one? And how well do bikes themselves cope with rain? When I get a bike I'll have to be leaving it out in the open.
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Feb 23, 2011 14:33
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 18:49 |
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I just did my first two days of riding at Q-Ride (my state's mandatory MSF course before you get your license), and got my license, but counterbalancing in low speeds is a bitch for me, and i was running wide in turns, how can I solve this? My brain just doesn't believe in the bike when it comes to counterbalancing, and I think it will drop every time I try...any way to beat this?
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Apr 3, 2011 08:17
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Is it possible to increase the distance between the gear lever and the foot peg on a GS500? I went and test rode one today, and the gap between them seemed really small, and I had a bit of trouble getting my foot under the lever...a quick google search says it isnt possible..
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Apr 15, 2011 08:36
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Just got a 2004 VTR250, and I rode it twice, seemingly fine, but last night when I tried to wheel it into my garage on neutral, I noticed that the front brake pads were rubbing against the rotor. It looks like both pads on the front are touching the rotor. But then again, so does the rear ones. I'm wondering if its just the "break-in" of a new set of brake pads, or if its something I should dismantle the caliper for. Anyone have any ideas?
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May 2, 2011 01:00
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-Inu- posted:All brake pads are going to rub up against the rotors, nothing to worry about. As long as you can still spin the wheel that's perfectly normal. It seems like it isn't rolling as freely as it should. I'll try get the front wheel up and give it a spin today. Having no centre stand sucks.
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May 2, 2011 01:20
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lancemantis posted:As long as the wheel rotates freely then it's probably fine. The pads will run pretty close to the rotor, especially if the brakes have been given a good squeeze and not been up to speed again (not exactly a return spring on brake calipers). Ah, that could probably be why. I was trying to back up the bike up the slight incline on my drivway, resting on the front brake before giving it another yank backwards up the driveway.. I'll try spin the wheel and take it for a short ride, see if either of them fix it.
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May 2, 2011 01:52
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Hi guys, Just got a 2004 VTR250, but I've been trying to lower the angle of the pedal, but can't for the life of me figure out how. Uploaded some pics for perusal. http://imgur.com/a/9uxYp Figured it would be as easy as moving the lower bolt above the U shaped bracket, but after going at it with a spanner (see: marks on the bolt  ) realised that it was pretty much connected to the U shaped bracket.I spun the top nut a few times, it didnt do anything. Owners manual and service manual both say nothing about adjusting it. Ideas? edit: been told it is the bolt that spins, but it seems to be pretty drat stuck in that U-shaped bracket+nut. How do I un-stick it 
Don Music fucked around with this message at 05:14 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 04:59
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The only possible thing I think can happen with it, is dismantling the entire thing, getting a smaller bolt in somehow, or hacksawing the bolt to make it shorter, and re-assembling everything. Looking on the Ninja 250 wiki, they have a similar setup with the U bracket, but I think mine is at the max adjustment with this bolt.
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May 10, 2011 00:39
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I bought a pair of Oggy Knobs for my bike, and the instructions say they need to be tightened up to 75nm using a torque wrench. Do you need a torque wrench? This will be about the only application I would have for one, and I dont really feel like forking out ~80 dollars for one...
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May 12, 2011 00:18
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I noticed after a few hours of riding yesterday that the higher RPM my bike is at when I try to change gears, the *click* from the gear lever turns into a bit more of a *clunk*, louder and you can feel it more. Normal? or should I be worried? Is there a proper way to change gears? e.g. waiting for revs to drop or what? I'm still a new rider and dont want to demolish my transmission..
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May 25, 2011 02:19
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I find its when I'm trying to change gear too fast, like, hitting the gear lever the second the clutch is in, so that I'm essentially changing the gears when there is no drop in RPM, if I pull the lever in, give it a second for the revs to drop to a normal-ish level, it goes back to a normal click.
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May 25, 2011 03:35
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I really don't know anything at all about carbs, and I was wondering what the cause of a few different issues I've run into in my time were. Once I started riding and forgot to turn the fuel petcock to the On position from Off, and the bike died before I could swap it to On. I pulled over, flicked it to on, tried starting, nothing happened. I tried starting it with a handful of throttle, nothing happened, ended up freaking out a bit and tried a combo of choke, no choke, throttle, no throttle, etc, and nothing really worked. I sat there for a minute wondering what the hell to do, tried it one more time with a handful of throttle and it started fine. The other time was I turned the choke off too early and it stalled, and then same as before, it wouldnt start with a mix of choke, throttle, no throttle, etc, I let it sit for 20-30 seconds and then it started fine. I've had no mechanical problems with the bike at all so far, I'm putting it down to human error. Is there a proper way to start a bike after you accidentally dry it out / it stalls while cold?
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Jul 4, 2011 11:40
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 18:49 |
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Your petcock probably has a "prime" setting in addition to on/off. This is what'll fill the float bowls for that first start. Nah, no prime setting, only on/res/off.
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Jul 5, 2011 00:27
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