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Nyyen posted:I've run into a problem while trying to get a little 90cc running properly. Sounds like an air leak around the petcock. Edit: Oh hey look at that, another page! frozenphil fucked around with this message at Jul 8, 2009 around 20:39 |
| # ¿ Jul 8, 2009 20:28 |
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| # ¿ May 23, 2013 08:48 |
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I was reading about valve adjustments on the new Ninja 250R and I see a quote that surprised me. This quote was regarding his local dealership not carrying shim kits because they just don't do many valve adjustments.quote:When I inquired about the number of valve jobs done on sport bikes the comments from two service departments was "they don't come in". They are often wrecked or sold before the first valve clearance check. Is this a common issue in your experience? Am I going to need to have shims on hand in a variety of sizes lest I wait a week for them to come in on order?
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| # ¿ Jul 13, 2009 15:07 |
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blugu64 posted:No need for shims on the 250, it's you just have to adjust the tappets, There's a factory tool that makes it a bit easier that I bought and really like, but if you've got a good tool set you should be fine. I've not seen this to be true for the 2008/2009 250Rs.
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| # ¿ Jul 13, 2009 16:18 |
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For those wondering, here's the valve adjustment guide I was reading. Looks like a bitch. I'm also digging the "from the factory" incorrectly set mixture screws which need the plugs drilled out and the mixture set properly.
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| # ¿ Jul 13, 2009 16:58 |
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Z3n posted:Save yourself the trouble and just buy a hot cams shim kit. I find it interesting that they switched from the screw type adjuster to shim under bucket though. Anyways, 7.48 is a very common shim size, I've used mine in the ZX6E, ZX6R, SV650, FZR600, etc. That's what the guy who made that guide I linked goes on to say he used. I'm picking mine up this weekend most likely so I won't have to deal with it for a while. 
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| # ¿ Jul 13, 2009 17:49 |
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Z3n posted:Did I miss the part where you bought a new 250? I haven't bought it yet, but that's what I'm getting. The wife decided that it was dumb to get an SV since the 250 would be better to learn on and she can use it once I am ready to move on to a different bike. She won't let me buy one of the "ugly" pre 2008 250s and the cost difference from new in this area isn't worth the hassle of buying used.
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| # ¿ Jul 13, 2009 18:24 |
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Doctor Zero posted:This site says 91 octane, but I'd be surprised. See if you can track down an owner's manual and check that. Since they don't list it it's hard to tell if they mean RON or PON. 91 RON = 87 PON.
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| # ¿ Jul 14, 2009 02:43 |
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Chairon posted:Oh, nevermind, apparently Bridgestone doesn't make a rear tire in the size for my bike(130/70-17) Tires are apparently very confusing for me :psyduck: The Ninja 250 people love those tires. Since 130/70-17 is the same size as the rear on the '08+ Ninja 250, have a link to the ninja250.org wiki which outlines all of the tires available in that size.
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| # ¿ Jul 22, 2009 14:29 |
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Wouldn't an '09 still be under warranty (provided you haven't busted the mileage limitation of course)?
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| # ¿ Jul 22, 2009 17:33 |
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Blakeem bin Bustin posted:Yes, it's still under warranty. Dealer it is then, I suppose. Yeah guy, take it to the dealer. Warranties aren't like car insurance; your rates aren't going to go up if you make a claim on your warranty. I don't fix a thing outside of routine maintenance and wear items on any vehicle I own while it is under warranty as that's the entire purpose of a warranty.
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| # ¿ Jul 22, 2009 21:15 |
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Taelrin posted:I really couldn't imagine anything. I know I don't go down the road looking for tires to come flying out at me. The article didn't mention what sort of gear he was wearing so if he was in the Harley uniform (Hawaiian shirt, Shorts, and flip-flops) then that could have something to do with it. A leather suit and a full face helmet aren't going to save you from a tire moving at interstate speeds hitting you in the melon, pushing you head on into a concrete wall, and sending you over a bridge afterward. The only way you avoid that is huge helpings of luck.
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| # ¿ Jul 27, 2009 22:19 |
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Anyone with any experience with bike covers have a recommendation? I am unfortunately lacking in garage space so my bike has to sit outside. I'm currently looking at this cover, but I am open to suggestions of known good covers. My primary concern is waterproof-ness and durability (won't melt on the exhaust, won't tear at the seams, etc...), with price in second, and storage size dead last.
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| # ¿ Aug 4, 2009 04:19 |
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Any suggestions for a tank bag for an '09 Ninja 250? I'd like to be able to hold my lunch bag when I go to work. I could probably make due with a cargo net for the lunch bag, but eventually I'd like to cruise up to my parent's place in Tennessee and a place to store a change of clothes or two would be nice. Also, magnetic base or straps?
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| # ¿ Aug 5, 2009 14:50 |
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Entreri posted:drat. Alright, I guess I'll get on draining my tank. I bought the bike used and the guy didn't give me an owner's manual, so I'm not too sure on how to go about this process. Does anyone know how to drain the fuel tank of an 08 Ninja 250r? You need the Ninja250 wiki in your life. Specifically, you need this link.
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| # ¿ Aug 12, 2009 14:08 |
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The Harley guys around here seem to love coming up next to me at a light and revving the piss out of their junk. I just sit there and let them get in front of me as I like to keep the danger in front of me soo I can avoid them easier when they do something dumb, and they always do something dumb.
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| # ¿ Dec 3, 2009 04:14 |
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Are spools supposed to be able to spin around (the actual spool, not the bolt) or are they supposed to stay firmly in place?
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| # ¿ Jan 5, 2010 18:42 |
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Z3n posted:Doesn't matter as long as the bolt won't back out. Phat_Albert posted:Depends on the design. If the bolt has a shoulder, it may allow the spool to spin. Most that I see bolt tight to the swingarm though. They have a section of no thread at the top of the bolt, but it is smaller than the thread and appears to be more for allowing the spool and spacer to sit directly on the bolt instead of on some threads. I've worked on the threads for an hour with a tap and I just can't get the drat bolt to go the final half inch or so. It's got a good half inch or more of thread in the hole, but I'd much rather have it seat all the way to avoid any buzzing or rattling.
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| # ¿ Jan 6, 2010 21:31 |
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laymil posted:What's preventing you from going the last half inch? The threads in the hole on the swingarm are preventing it from going in all the way. They were extremely crudely tapped from the factory and full of gunk so the bolts wouldn't catch more than a thread or two initially. Looks like I need to pick up some machinist oil or something to finish tapping them because brake cleaner must not be floating all of the metal shavings out good enough.
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| # ¿ Jan 6, 2010 22:33 |
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Z3n posted:Did they ship you the correct type (thread pitch) of bolt? I've never seen a tap so crude from the factory that it wouldn't go in, and definitely never one that you needed to spend an hour chasing just to get the bolt to thread in. Nope, the threads in the hole are just garbage.
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| # ¿ Jan 6, 2010 23:04 |
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infraboy posted:Regarding tools: How is the stuff from Harbor Freight? I'm thinking of ordering a few things, they have a brake bleeder kit for 4$, and a 1/2 inch socket set for 30$ some 3/8 hex bits for 10$, it all seems really cheap, it is pretty good quality wise? Check out the tools thread in AI. Lots of people have posted what works well and what doesn't from their own experience there.
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| # ¿ Apr 23, 2010 15:34 |
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I've always wondered how you lube a chain with gear oil...just oil up a rag and wipe it down? Seems like you'd spill that poo poo everywhere. I pour it directly on the inside of the chain (the top of the chain just before it is underneath the rear sprocket), wipe up the excess with a rag, and go for a ride to allow science to push the oil through the chain. I get a ton of throw off doing it this way but my chain is cleaner than when I use the grunge brush and chain cleaner stuff.
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2010 20:58 |
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Jack the Smack posted:Everyone tells me to ride before to warm up the chain, so that the chain is hot and can absorb the oil better. Then you let the bike sit for a while after cleaning and lubing. I personally oil the chain after I'm done riding for the day so it can sit overnight. Even the dealership's mechanics that I go to says this is the way to properly lubricate a chain. I wasn't aware of rubber being able to absorb things, much less needing to be hot to do it. I guess the metal expands around the o-rings allowing the oil to seep past them?
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2010 21:37 |
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UserNotFound posted:How much you trust your bike will determine how many tools you take on an trip. For a 100+ mile trip, I carry everything up to and including circlip piers. How intense is everyone else's tool kit? (pictures would be be awesome, i'll lay it all out tonight when I get home) 100 miles is a long trip? That's my commute to work. 
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2010 15:21 |
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Is there anything terribly wrong with the chain adjusters being a couple millimeters different side to side? It seems no matter how close I get them they move a tad when I tighten down the axle nut. The OCD perfectionist side of my brain is weeping in the corner right now, but the rest of my brain said, "gently caress it, how much can 2mm hurt".
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| # ¿ May 7, 2010 20:37 |
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Z3n posted:Usually they're out about that much from the factory anyways. The rational part of my brain knows this, but the perfectionist part is just flipping out about it.
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| # ¿ May 7, 2010 20:46 |
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I'm trying to devise a system using a laser level and some brackets right now. Should be more accurate than the factory hash marks and bracket that moves when you tighten the axle nut.
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| # ¿ May 7, 2010 20:51 |
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So far this looks to be the easiest method. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0048/
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| # ¿ May 8, 2010 04:20 |
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Rontalvos posted:I have to have power for sustained freeway speeds. I commute 20 miles round trip to school and the 2nd job I picked up for the summer is 40 miles round trip nearly every day. I commute 120 miles round trip every day on a stock 28hp Ninja 250. You don't need gobs of power to ride on the highway.
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| # ¿ May 10, 2010 14:40 |
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What brand of earplugs are you folks partial to?
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| # ¿ May 10, 2010 16:06 |
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Jabs posted:Sony... Ear plugs, not head phones. I've been leaning towards these as they reviewed very well.
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| # ¿ May 10, 2010 20:37 |
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PlasticSun posted:I'm a big fan of the 3M low pressure soft foam ones: http://www.reddenmarine.com/marine-...ear-plugs-.html NRR of 29 and that site wants $20 to ship. They look comfy though. 2ndclasscitizen posted:Got me a set of these. KozmoNaut posted:Surefire EarPro Sonic Defenders. Palicgofueniczekt posted:These are wonderful for stopping noise and being able to listen to music at a reasonable level. If you don't want music, you don't have to connect any. If you want to be able to hear as if you were not wearing earplugs, press the pass-through button to turn the noise-cancellation pickup into microphones. I'm not looking to spend hundreds of dollars on a product when its performance, for my needs and wants, can be matched by a $.12 piece of foam.
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| # ¿ May 11, 2010 15:07 |
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TACTICAL PROFESSIONAL
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KozmoNaut posted:$12.95/$13.95 is too expensive for earplugs? I always associate surefire with the tactilol arfcom crowd and that one dude who poses his family with guns and stuff. It seems fitting that they would offer earplugs with metal halos and poo poo to make it look like you're wearing an ear piece.
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| # ¿ May 11, 2010 20:40 |
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PadreScout posted:Maybe found a solution to my bikes weirdness. From what the internet says- my tires .. Metzler Laser somethings are absolute poo poo and most K guys won't put them on their bike. Well- guess what mine came with. The garbage IRC tires that came stock on my bike make a similar sensation when you're leaned way over. It almost feels like they are losing traction and regaining it many times in rapid succession.
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| # ¿ May 19, 2010 14:41 |
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Phat_Albert posted:If you're destroying engines by running plugs with the wrong heat range, you've got other bigger issues that are destroying motors. The plugs being the wrong heat range isn't what destroys the engine. The plugs getting so hot that the electrode melts and other pieces start breaking off and traveling through the combustion chamber, destroying poo poo in the process, is the problem.  Most people who have used the Champion plugs in their 250 just experience the bike running like poo poo or get stranded on the side of the road when the electrode melts.
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| # ¿ May 25, 2010 18:31 |
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Z3n posted:Speaking of approved tools for head bearings...has anyone ever seen an adjustable preload spanner? My suspension guy has one and holy gently caress do I covet it, but I can't seem to find one to buy Like this one?
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| # ¿ Jun 3, 2010 15:55 |
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Gnaghi posted:Are the wheel alignment markings on the rear axle a good guide to use, or is there a more precise method for alignment? I've heard good things about the Motion Pro chain alignment tool. I haven't picked one up myself yet, but all of the reviews I've read say that it is easy to use and accurate when checked against the string method. Seems like it would be a lot less hassle too.
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| # ¿ Jun 5, 2010 04:03 |
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needknees posted:Basically there's no way getting around calling loving any and every insurance company you can find. The rates vary WILDLY between all of them; rider to rider, location to location, bike to bike. There's loving no rhyme or reason behind it. And to add to this, call the actual agents in your area. Your local agents can beat the online quote you get from their company nearly 100% of the time. My State Farm agent beat the State Farm online quote by nearly 75%.
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| # ¿ Jul 2, 2010 23:59 |
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Would someone mind doing a run down comparing the current crop of 600 super sports? I'm interested in making the SS leap and I'd like to know what's out there.
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| # ¿ Jun 11, 2011 05:52 |
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I'll just be commuting on it and hitting up the backroads mostly, but I want to get into trackdays eventually. I know an SS isn't meant for commuting, but I don't really care.
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| # ¿ Jun 11, 2011 17:24 |
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| # ¿ May 23, 2013 08:48 |
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Z3n posted:Buy the most comfortable one, or buy the one that makes you drool the most when you look at it. No sense in halfassing it on a supersport. I really like the swoopy looking R6es. Please tell me they don't suck.
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| # ¿ Jun 17, 2011 20:44 |
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