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How much insurance do you guys buy on bikes? I am looking at various plans and thinking about how much damage a bike could realistically cause to someone else. The only tip I have found is just buying enough to cover assets.
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| # ¿ Nov 17, 2008 04:53 |
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| # ¿ May 23, 2013 09:08 |
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I mean not monthly costs but what amount on liability for bodily harm.
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| # ¿ Nov 17, 2008 18:00 |
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Atomic Hotdog posted:I have a question of great concern, but I'm not sure if I can explain it in a clear way.. Sounds like a hosed up chain.
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| # ¿ Nov 19, 2008 18:16 |
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Try out the HJC CL-15. I was cross shopping between that and the shoei RF1000. Similar feel and sizing. The CL-15 I got for 57 on clearance online, goes for about 130 retail.
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| # ¿ Nov 19, 2008 20:04 |
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Nerobro posted:Keep in mind that three people is 600lbs. Stairs can handle 500lbs without blinking. DO NOT DO THIS until we go through the lessons Skreemer and i learned. Yea but weight distribution is going to be off. Know any fat people that walk upi your stairs by just touching the edges of each step? Build a ramp and use lots of rope for going down and up. Pretensioning the front brake might also help out a lot going down. It will still move but the bikes weight will be less on the ropes or your arms.
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| # ¿ Nov 20, 2008 01:37 |
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Quick question guys: Last night decided to check my tire pressure for the first time on my 88 zx600. From the second I unscrewed the cap the valve core was going all "shhhhhhhhh" leaking air. I could add air faster than it was coming out, but obviously I need to fix this. The core tip sits above the stem, whereas the rear tire one is recessed about 1-2mm. Could the problem be that it wasnt correctly seated? Can I replace the core myself without dismounting the tire from the rim? My motorcycle guru buddy at work successfully put the fear of god into me talking about rapid front tire airloss at highway speeds, so I want the quickest and safest fix possible. If I take it to a shop I am getting new tires installed. If I do it myself it will be just the core until next season.
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| # ¿ Nov 20, 2008 19:53 |
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It might be possible that being on the stand so long without moving made the switch get stuck?
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| # ¿ Nov 21, 2008 19:05 |
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Asked this in the newbie thread as well, but I really need better side mirrors for my 1988 ZX600. I cant see poo poo past my shoulders from my larger frame. Pants making GBS threads experience the entire time I took it out on the state highway off the small town I live in not being able to see if someone was behind me. Ugh
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| # ¿ Nov 22, 2008 21:37 |
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QnoisX posted:Anyways, what do I do now? Head up to the court house Monday and buy a new one? Should I report my old one lost or stolen so someone doesn't put it on their bike and rack up some tickets for me? Report it as stolen and go to the DMV for new a plate.
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| # ¿ Nov 23, 2008 03:28 |
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Z3n posted:Don't report it as stolen...just go into the DMV, let them know it came off on the freeway, and they'll issue you a new one. If you report it as stolen, they'll probably want a bunch of details that you won't be able to provide. If you just tell them it came off, you'll just tell them that it came off and that should be that. Depends, if you list it as lost/stolen they will issue a new number so someone else cant pick it up off the street and use it. I would never want my plate on someone elses car if only by a small chance.
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| # ¿ Nov 23, 2008 05:42 |
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8ender posted:This isn't about a motorcycle plate but my fiance's parents started receiving hefty toll charges from the 407 toll road a year or two back because of a lost plate. Eventually the police caught them but it was a huge hassle until then. The 294 tollway through IL came to mind and I almost had cold sweats about someone taking my plate. Those fines are insane.
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| # ¿ Nov 23, 2008 08:34 |
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Charun posted:My plate fell off, but I went back over the route I took and was lucky enough to find it again. I reattached it with some zip ties - it ain't comming off now. Haha that just gave me a great idea. When I first got my plate the thing vibrated off while warming up on my driveway . Since then I have put better lock washers on it, but I think I have something to loop the bottom holes through to lock it in place. At least if I lose a screw or 2 it will only dangle.
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| # ¿ Nov 23, 2008 17:56 |
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What is the opinion on installing a hid kit on a motorcycle? These days they cost like 100 bucks or so for 2, and I figure I will use one on the bike and one as a car/moto powered worklight. Headlight power at night seems to be lacking on the zx600, can barely light up my lawn from my driveway
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| # ¿ Nov 26, 2008 04:16 |
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Nerobro posted:It's a wildly bad idea. most "HID" kits are just bright looking, they are not actually bight. Here's what you need to do. Go buy some high power H4 builbs. They are "normally" 50/55w or 50/60w. You can get 65/100w bulbs. That's what I do. Well I am looking at 4300k lights, yellow/white not the 6-9k blue/purple crap. So the lumen level would be higher. I was thinking about the higher wattage bulbs, but I am not sure the housing could handle the higher heat output, and I wouldnt mind the much lower power draw of the HID system.
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| # ¿ Nov 26, 2008 05:36 |
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Hmm I think I am still going to keep HIDs on the table, but try to find a projector housing that I can work with for the mounting. No problem really fabbing up something to take the place of the current housing. Perhaps 2 projector foglights mounted to the old housing with some flat fiberglass to hold them? I was so spoiled by HIDs on my GTI
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| # ¿ Nov 27, 2008 23:15 |
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I think I found a fun project bike http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/943360775.html I bet I could do some wicked burnouts(scrapeouts) down the street with it. How the gently caress do you rip off a tire like that?
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| # ¿ Dec 4, 2008 02:56 |
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Since I finally have my entire collection of gear I headed out to the school parking lot across the street from my neighborhood. I probably rode for a total of 10 minutes, first time the bike has been on in like a week. Riding around at close to idle speed doing low speed turns the bike kept on making a click/tick sound that was kinda like the sound the front brake master cylinder makes every time you squeeze it. Well after multiple times getting off the bike, looking for loose parts and hitting panels to see if something was off I gave up and thought I was imagining things. A minute later I am circling around the area of the lot at like 2mph and I hear a crunch sound from the front fork. Think soda can caught in the spokes. Stopped the bike, turned it off and inspected the front and still cant find out what it is. Going over small bumps the bike makes soft clunk sounds, but I am pretty sure it is the front fairing section. Front fork moves smoothly up and down, although one side as a small leak. There really isnt anything on the front wheel that could make that sound without showing something for it. Inspected the parking lot and nothing was on the ground. I carefully drove the bike back home and pakred it up on the center stand and figure I am not doing anything with it until I can get someone to check it over. Any ideas what the gently caress is going on?
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| # ¿ Dec 4, 2008 23:09 |
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Nerobro posted:Sounds like lose head bearings, or a dead/dieing speedo cable. I was thinking about the speedo cable at first, but it isnt acting like a dying cable. The needle climbs smoothly even at low speeds. Can it unscrew from the front for easy inspection or will poo poo fly out?
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| # ¿ Dec 4, 2008 23:14 |
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Oh yea and the front brakes seem to drag now. Harder to roll the bike around by hand and they squeal at low speed.
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| # ¿ Dec 4, 2008 23:16 |
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Ugh ever have one of those days where you try to fix something but only manage to break something else that is like 2 times worse? The whole one step forward two steps back deal. Last week while checking out the speedo line I managed to snap a instrument panel stud in half tightening down a nut I thought was loose but was actually as tight as it could ever be.
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| # ¿ Dec 10, 2008 04:44 |
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Is the front axle shaft on my zx600 threaded or just slipped into place? Curious if after I remove the nut on one side and the pinch bolts on the other if I unthread the rod or smack it out with a hammer.
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| # ¿ Feb 8, 2009 07:30 |
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How long do bearings last in the front and rear wheels on the average sportbike? My 88 is going to push 10k, and since this is the first full riding season I want to make sure it is in tip top shape. Wheels will be off for the tire replacement, so the bearings could be done at the same time if needed. Also anyone know what the spark gap should be on the zx600c?
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| # ¿ Feb 8, 2009 22:16 |
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Z3n posted:They're threaded. I spent like 5 minutes spinning the thing wondering why it wouldnt come out. It is actually just slightly pressed in there and can be pulled out with finger pressure. To remind myself not to ride the bike while the thing is apart and still slightly together I have the key ziptied to the handlebar. Dont need any late night accidents
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| # ¿ Feb 8, 2009 23:19 |
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So I have my front wheel off now, balancing the rear of the bike back on the center stand with 3 bags of sand on the back of the bike. I kinda of have a jack under the bike that is shimmed with a toolkit, and then the shock tubes shimmed with a ps3 box and some foam insulation. Will my bike fall over and burst into flames? Doing this one wheel at a time to take to the shop and have the tires removed. Also checked the front bearings by slipping my finger through the end and spinning around. I wouldn't say it feels notchy, but it isnt the smoothest bearing I have ever felt before. Should I be concerned or just let them be until they get noisy? Also do I remove the brake rotors before I go to the shop to have the tire mounted, or can they work around those?
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| # ¿ Feb 9, 2009 01:00 |
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Well gently caress, took off both wheels to take to the tire shop tomorrow and ran into a little problem. 1. Tilting the rear wheel to its side to get it out carefully I managed to drop the sprocket face first on the garage floor from about 8 inches up. Appears to have hit the raised nut son the side, no impact to the teeth at first glance. If I managed to nick the very outer edge of one of the teeth would that be a big problem since it isnt a direct wear surface like the inner bearing face area? There was so much caked on grease that it looks like it cushioned any impact blow it could have taken. I will be cleaning it down entirely with kerosene to inpect everything just in case. 2. With the wheels off I had some finger-in-hole-and-spinning one-on-one action with the bearings front and rear. Out of 5 total 2 feel loose and notchy. The bearings cost 41 bucks for everything plus seals online, can I do this myself with a brass punch and a few correctly sized sockets with a hammer? Or will I need a shop to do this with a puller and press?
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| # ¿ Feb 10, 2009 04:19 |
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Got the bearings out of the rear wheel, 2 had 1-2mm of play, another was loose and notchy. For those of you that remembered my squared off rear tire picture, could the loose bearings account for the shifty rear end feel at highway speed? Waiting for some expanding plug bearing removers for the front wheel since the spacer clearance is tighter, preventing me from using a punch. I ordered some "All Balls" wheel bearings which supposedly use KML bearings. Anyone have first hand experience with this brand?
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| # ¿ Feb 10, 2009 22:15 |
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Simkin posted:Also, if bike companies could all follow BMW's example and have their bikes balance on the center stand such that you can just ride off (without having to roll if off the stand first), that would be great. tia Wouldnt that mean it wouldnt be locked as securely back on the stand? I kind of like how my 600 goes up and back and locks down on the center stand. Puts my mind at ease with it sitting next to my car in the garage.
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| # ¿ Feb 15, 2009 04:40 |
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MrZig posted:Stupid question alert: Friction modifier differences since the clutches share the same oil and car engines dont run into that problem. I would stick to motorcycle engine only unless it was a dry clutch assembly.
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| # ¿ Feb 15, 2009 04:41 |
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Phat_Albert posted:Has anyone ever had aluminum wheels trued? My bandit has dents in both the wheels. I'm assuming that the PO either ran something over at speed or hit a gnarly pothole. I'm guessing they're both from one incident since they're both the same size. I have seen places offer wheel refurbishing services, but they usually run for well over the cost of a comparable used wheel. Are you sure they are actually dents? I have seen different forged wheels that look odd watching them spin, but are balanced perfectly and like that from the factory.
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| # ¿ Feb 20, 2009 16:16 |
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Simkin posted:I've taken Z3n's advice and now lube my chain with 90w gear oil. It's so goddamn cheap compared to the spray on poo poo, it's not even funny. I usually oil once every 2-300km (pretty much every time I fill up on petrol), with a proper cleaning of the chain every 2-3 tanks. Jesus, at least you still had a finger. I instantly thought back to the person who put their bike in gear and ripped their finger off. I only lube my chain from rear since it prevents any sort of accident. If you remove the rear wheel from a bike, is there enough room around the front sprocket to slip the chain off completely?
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| # ¿ Feb 24, 2009 19:51 |
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Ola posted:Easily. If you can get the chain off without splitting it (I can't, due to space constraints), it will probably come off if the rear wheel is pushed all the way in on the adjusting rail. Well I can remove the entire rear wheel without a problem, leaving the chain slack sitting on a piece of foam on the floor. With it that slack can it just pop off the front gear and move it out? Not sure who it was but someone said original chains need to be cut off unless you are removing the front sprocket first because they have no master link ![]() I really want to get the chain off cause the PO never cleaned it. Still feels pretty firm, and with 9k I want to get it back into good condition so I don't need to replace the sprockets and chain just yet.
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| # ¿ Feb 24, 2009 20:31 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:that bike is already a gwyneth paltrow, how much thinner can she get? Kate Moss perhaps?
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| # ¿ Feb 25, 2009 04:15 |
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Finally got my wheel bearings completed. Only took one ruined set of bearings before I got it right I *may* have goofed something with the rear bearings on the wheel side. I want to test them before I get the new tires mounted, would a trip down the street at highway speeds show any signs of noise? I had spun the wheel on a rod listening for any sounds or imperfections and found nothing. Main thing is getting a few miles on them then removing them and checking for more play. Do bearings make noise before they go, or is it locking up instantly?
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| # ¿ Feb 25, 2009 05:13 |
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Well thats good I guess. When I get the tires mounted they are going to also handle the balancing of each wheel. Is there any risk of them mangling the new seals on the wheels doing this? Also do they just have some assortment of perfectly sized rods to handle the different size bearings on each wheel so they can spin it up?
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| # ¿ Feb 25, 2009 05:51 |
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kdc67 posted:Chicks can do it. That bike is so sexy. First week I had my bike I was moving it by standing on one side, ended up going forward and getting the stand off its locked position. Fell forward a bit and bike just crunched me and my leg. Was having flashbacks of the "i've fallen and i cant get up" commercials as I tried to get the bike up with it on top of me
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| # ¿ Feb 25, 2009 06:39 |
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Took the ZX600 for a 10 mile spin today after work and everything seems to be working great. At highway speeds (60-65) it felt more planted with less of the shifty feeling I was getting before. I am probably going to get about 20 more miles on it then remove the wheels again to inspect the bearings. Once everything checks out I should get my new tires mounted next week. My new rear brake was drat near worthless today. It kinda felt like a pad trying to slow a rotor down that was covered in grease. Being a new pad how long do they usually take to break in?
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| # ¿ Feb 25, 2009 23:36 |
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Doctor Zero posted:I've always been afraid of getting a flat at high speeds. I wondered if I could keep the bike in control long enough to get pulled over. What caused the flat in the first place?
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| # ¿ Feb 26, 2009 16:24 |
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What is a good cleaner one could run through a motorcycle to get remove some amount of internal varnish from the carbs after sitting for a length of time. Can any fuel system cleaners be used or are most useless?
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| # ¿ Feb 26, 2009 19:29 |
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Z3n posted:Sounds like minor clogging, or additional poo poo screwing it up. You could also just leave the choke on for a bit until it stops stalling out. That's what I'd do...enough choke to get it started, and then back it off a bit until the bike is comfortably idling at about 2k, and then once the bike is warmed up (minute or 2) just back the choke all the way off. Any ratio I should stick to, or just dump the entire can in with a full tank?
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| # ¿ Feb 26, 2009 20:15 |
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| # ¿ May 23, 2013 09:08 |
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God-damned Pilates posted:You might be better off just taking the carbs off and cleaning them. If it's bad enough to cause the bike to run noticibly wrong, it's probably bad enough to warrant special attention. Nothing so far, runs fine from what I can tell. Might have a bit of a stumble but very minor off idle. I just figure if there was something I could do short of tearing down the carbs that would be nice. I will have the float bowls off when I replace the orings sometime in the future, but I really dont want to go further than that.
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| # ¿ Feb 26, 2009 20:23 |




. Since then I have put better lock washers on it, but I think I have something to loop the bottom holes through to lock it in place. At least if I lose a screw or 2 it will only dangle.
