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Thought I'd ask this here instead of a new thread for this question.. I'm going to do some general maintenance on my ST1100 during it's winter slumber so I'm going to need some OEM Honda parts. The problem is that my local dealer is an absolute robber with parts prices... like totally cookoo $30 for an oil filter robbery insanity. Does anyone know of a  source, preferably online that I can buy parts from? I'm interested in brake pads, foot peg and shifter rubbers/covers and maybe an OEM windshield set.
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| # ¿ Sep 29, 2009 14:57 |
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| # ¿ May 22, 2013 20:14 |
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Z3n posted:Worst case, you could have one of us pick up the parts for you and send them up to you. I shipped some parts over to singapore for another goon who needed them...it was like 30 minutes of repacking stuff and shipping it off to him, and it apparently saved him a boat load of money. Thanks, never really thought of that. I'm only 45 minutes from the line (about 2 hours from Great Falls, MT) so worst case, I could even order/buy it down there and go for a little drive if there was enough of a savings... but I'd prefer to get it all up here. Although, to be honest if I buy a new windscreen it would probably be $40 alone so the drive might pay for itself right there.
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| # ¿ Sep 29, 2009 16:24 |
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Figured I'd post this here than start a new thread. I want to put new boots on the ST1100 as it sleeps over winter. I use it as a pretty utilitarian bike.. mostly around town/utility but carve up the odd mountain road if I can squeeze it in with some highway riding. What's some decent multi-purpose rubber for it? 110/80-18 160/70-17
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| # ¿ Dec 24, 2010 01:57 |
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JP Money posted:Motorcycle superstore has pilot roads for 117 up front in 110/80/18 and rear 160/60/17 for 144, those should be pretty well suited for what you're doing. Thanks for the recommendation. I'm in so the Superstore probably wont work out, but if Pilot Roads are good rubber I'll see if I can get a deal on them.Thanks. 
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| # ¿ Dec 30, 2010 01:11 |
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MrZig posted:http://www.petes-superbike.com/ Bringing up this old post: I'm going to buy a set of rubber from these guys, because even with shipping they're almost half price compared to the next cheapest place here for the same drat rubber. Problem is the bike stores in town are highway robbery for mounting/balancing tires. Out of spite, I'm seriously considering buying a No-Mar or Cycle-Hill unit. Sure, it'll cost me quite a bit up front but I figure it'll eventually pay for itself... and who knows, maybe mount some for local guys and make a few bucks. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/ Anyone here have either tire changers? Any thoughts between them?
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| # ¿ Mar 6, 2011 23:31 |
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quote:Harbor Freight Unfortunately as I'm we don't have HF here. We do have our version of the store, Princess Auto, but they don't carry motorcycle tire changers.That said, if anyone knows of a place to score an econo tire changer suitable for bike tires I'm all ears!
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| # ¿ Mar 6, 2011 23:54 |
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My ST1100 has kind of bastard size rubber (110/80V18 and 160/70V17). I was looking for pilot road 2s as recommended here, but they don't make them in the rear size from what I can see. I'm not against tweeking the size a bit, HOWEVER, the new Battle-ax BT-023 Sport Touring is made in my size exactly (and Z rated) and the reviews I've read seem pretty positive... even though the older battleax versions have reviews all over the map. Anyone here have experience with them yet?
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| # ¿ Mar 8, 2011 16:51 |
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Raven457 posted:I have BT-023s on my ST1300 (120/70R18; 170/60R17), and have been very happy with them. I've had them on for about 4500 miles now. Good wet weather traction, very low noise, and they have been wearing very well. NipplesTheCat posted:Just finished a set of BT-023's on my SV (120/60|160/60), I went 9500 miles before hitting the wear bars on them. Did mountain runs, highway miles, long distance trips, everythhing you can think of, tires were absolutely great and I'd definitely recommend them. Sold. Ordered the set up. Thanks for the info guys.
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| # ¿ Mar 8, 2011 20:48 |
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Stupid maintenance question: My 99 ST1100 is getting a bit of whine from the front wheel at low speed from what I'm 99.9% sure it is the speedo cable. It seems to be a bit more jumpy at low speeds too and is original. A brand new cable assembly is about $30. Typically, are they worth saving (IE: try to blow some graphite in it) or should I just order a new loving cable when I order my brake pads? I have no idea how difficult it would be to get dry lube through the whole cable but I'm thinking it would be a pain in the rear end.
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| # ¿ Mar 14, 2011 02:03 |
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Xenoid posted:Speedo cable can affect the bike performance? I thought it was just for a read-out. Performance? The "jumpy" is the speedo, not the bike itself. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
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| # ¿ Mar 14, 2011 02:57 |
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Raven457 posted:You should be able to disconnect the cable from the drive housing on the front wheel, and then the inner cable should pull out from the outer sheath. Clean it up and put on a light coating of wheel bearing grease, and then reinsert it. Failing that, the cable would need to be replaced. Thanks very much for the link. As a lube guy, I'm a little dubious of putting something as thick as wheel bearing grease in it though, but if nothing else it sounds quick to take apart and clean so I'd really have nothing to lose.
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| # ¿ Mar 14, 2011 18:48 |
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Just wanted to post to say that Pete's Superbike in does indeed kick rear end. Thanks to those that recommended them to me a couple months back. My Battlax tires for the ST came in promptly and safely via Fed Ex. By the time I paid to get them mounted and balanced, it was still basically almost half price from anyone even remotely local. Can't recommend him enough.
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| # ¿ Apr 8, 2011 00:47 |
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They stay on
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| # ¿ Apr 9, 2011 22:48 |
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To those of you that have sold a bike to a stranger: How have you worked out the logistics of a test ride for a prospective buyer? I'm a little leery of just tossing the keys for a pretty big bike to a guy that I have no clue as to their riding history or ability.
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| # ¿ Jul 19, 2011 00:04 |
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So, I just bought a thing. I've gotta drive 10 hours to pick it up next week. Question I have is this, and apologies if it's a dumb one but it's something I haven't done in years, and never with a big bike. What is the proper way to strap one down in the bed of a pick up? I've getting some good tri-fold ramps from a buddy to put it in the bed, but strapping it down is making me wonder a bit and I'd like to get it figured out ahead of time for what I should do and bring with me for equipment. I suspect I can tie around the grab handles from the rear seat passenger for the back, but what about the front? The fairing is pretty encompassing and I'm not sure where I should plan on hooking and I obviously want it to be secure but not scuffing of the paint. The truck is a 2011 Tacoma and it has eyelets on the back rear of the bed, but the rest of the hooks are in channels along the TOP of the bed, which is probably a good thing I think?
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| # ¿ Aug 25, 2011 18:18 |
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clutchpuck posted:That is hot as hell [literally, I hear, hahaha], I'd love to get one myself. Actually, the 2010s pretty much killed that complaint thankfully. One of the reasons I wanted a 10. So, compressing the front makes sense. One off of each side of the handle bars and one or two off the back to keep it from hopping around should be enough then?
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| # ¿ Aug 25, 2011 18:40 |
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Heh, thanks and I will. I actually did consider a fly and ride, but a one way ticket to where the bike is would set me back over $500, and I can drive for about $200 in gas. Also, the reason the owner is selling it in the first place is the roads to/from the city where it is are perpetually under construction and I'd rather not have a good portion of my virgin ride on gravel.
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| # ¿ Aug 26, 2011 18:43 |
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Well, I posted a couple of question to a Connie forum and the couple of people that replied recommend against strapping it down via the handlebars and instead going via the tree. The only thing that concerns me with that is that the Tacomas tie downs are along the top of the box and I'm not sure if I'm going to get a good enough angle to suck it down and/or contact the fairing. There are floor tie downs in the back of the box but that would make me back the bike in, and that wouldn't be my first choice either because of 10 hours at highway speeds pushing the windshield back. Does the concern about strapping it via the handle bars sound legit?
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| # ¿ Aug 27, 2011 20:19 |
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Z3n posted:Why did they recommend against strapping it down via the handlebars? I've seen people ruin grips and throttle tubes by being idiots with their connecting points, but the handlebars are pretty durable, and looping the cloth part of the tiedown around the base of the handlebars is usually fine. I'm beginning to wonder about that forum, the posters there are now talking about how putting it in the back of a truck at all is a bad idea period and how it would be in peril.  JP Money posted:http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...&WT.MC_ID=10010 Do you guys think there would be enough of an angle considering the tie down is at the top of the box like the circle in the photo? slidebite fucked around with this message at Aug 27, 2011 around 20:32 |
| # ¿ Aug 27, 2011 20:30 |
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Phy posted:I'd say that's them being sissies, unless the bars (or risers) are made of incredibly thin-walled poo poo. I'd be more worried about the angle on the risers and if it might make it impossible to crank the front end down in your truck, with the tie-down points as they exist. Yeah, I actually took a good look at those anchor points on the Tacoma and I don't think I'd trust them to crank down a 700lb bike anyhow. I can deflect them if I reef on them by hand. So, I rented a U-Haul bike trailer. U-hauls in general scare the hell out of me, but I figure it's probably safer than having some weaker than poo poo anchor points flake out on me. I actually stopped by a the local kawi dealer and looked at a concours they had in the showroom. The bars are pretty much non-existent for an anchor point. I think it'd have to strap around the base where the bars go into the forks. I'm thinking that I'm going to be strapping off the tree anyhow, although man it's pretty tight down there. It might be fun strapping the bloody thing down.
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| # ¿ Aug 28, 2011 00:22 |
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Well, you guys are going to shoot me but I'm not going to be worrying about it. I'm flying after all! On a whim I checked Air Canada again and they dropped their fair today for some bizarre reason. It's now only $250 taxes all in one way. Gas alone would have cost almost that let alone the trailer rental and wiring kit I'd need to buy. Hopefully the roads are reasonable and it doesn't dump on me!
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| # ¿ Aug 28, 2011 01:05 |
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JP Money posted:You'll be fine. Don't let gravel scare you. You are absolutely fine unless you are at max lean going through a drat gravel pit honestly. People freak out over a few pebbles when honestly your tires are sticky enough to soak them up and roll right over them in a turn. Think of how little time the tire really spends on top of a pebble in a turn and you'll be a lot less worried. I've ridden on gravel for many, many years. Gravel on its own doesn't concern me so much as the soft spots and potholes from the heavy traffic. But your right, I was just a little concerned about a big heavy 150+HP bike that I've never ridden before. But, I suspect it will be perfectly fine and just the original owner was a little bit concerned about his own riding ability which is fair. And you bet, I'll be taking photos.
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| # ¿ Aug 28, 2011 16:54 |
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I actually found my local "batteries for everything" store even cheaper than wal-mart
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| # ¿ Sep 5, 2011 04:41 |
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Sounds like starving to me. If it doesn't reoccur I wouldn't worry about it but you might want to check your filter (if you have one) and/or tank strainer.
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| # ¿ Sep 8, 2011 01:44 |
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Dielectric posted:Probably best to find some new clean ones. Rechroming is pretty tough. First you strip the old chrome and create a huge enviro hazard, then if the base metal is OK you can hard chrome and grind it back. Can't say your wrong, but I know a re-chromer that used to be next door to our old shop that redid forks all the time. Of course, it might have just been the same one or two guys coming back over and over again to get it done right.  That said, a decent set of used forks for a 900C shouldn't be hard to come by. I imagine the 750-1000 take the same.
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| # ¿ Sep 13, 2011 22:32 |
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Short of sheltering it or some sort of anchor system, make sure it's on the side stand with the prevailing wind so the wind is pushing it "into" the stand if anything. I don't think your warranty is going to be a lot of help covering damage from something like this.
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| # ¿ Sep 17, 2011 05:29 |
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I need help matching paint. I'm crossposting a couple of photos from the ST thread to illustrate my plight. Sit back and let me tell you a story which I'm now in the middle of. A month or so ago, I ordered a Corbin Smuggler and new front seat. I received it this past Friday. After I got the parcel home, I was so eager to get it out of the box I didn't notice what was one the shelf above my workbench. A lawnmower blade. And I lifted the brand new smuggler out of the box straight into it. It caused a not so nice gash in the perfectly matched Corbin paint.  Hey, that's not so ba.... DOH!  That was Friday @ approx 5pm. After a couple days of being absolutely furious with my ineptitude, I figured I'd take a it a well respected local body shop that specializes in minor repairs... dents, scratches, that kind of thing. I've used them in the past with for my 4Runner, and they did really good work for a great price. Took it to see the guys and while they cringed at my story, they were very confident they could fix it up good as new. Only thing they were a little hesitant with was getting the paint info. No problem, I say to them. I'll get a hold of Corbin and find out what they used. So, I call Corbin. Get the paint department. They just say to get a hold of Kawi and get the paint code. Since it's just the OEM color any paint supplier can supply it no problem. That is, after all, what paint companies do!  They couldn't be bothered to tell me the code or what brand they used, but whatever. So, I use my google-fu and find it is Kawasaki 27Z - Candy Neptune Blue. Armed with my info and the feeling of a job well done, I head back to my local bodyshop.Hmmm... bodyshop guy says. "Let me see what I can do. I had trouble getting a color for a Ninja a couple weeks back, as in I couldn't, but I'll try. I'll call you later today Slidebite". I go on my merry way. About an hour later I get a call. The PPG guys they deal with have no info at all on the paintcode. They might be able to scan the color but that's about the best they can do. And the guy with the scanner is out until the end of the week. A co-worker at my office deals with another shop for car parts that's also a master Sherwin Williams dealer. I call them no dice with the code as well. Might be able to scan it but that's a maybe. I try a Sikkens dealer. No joy on the code and don't sound eager to try to scan or match it. I go to Kawi. Parts guy says "NO WAY THEY'LL MATCH IT! KAWI WON'T EVEN SELL PAINT TO ME"  "Closest you're going to get is Color-Rite." http://www.colorrite.com/product/kawasaki-27z-candy-neptune-blue-2273.cfm Which, for me being up in Canada is a pain. So, paint guys, do I suck it up and buy Color-rite? Do these color scanner tools work well? The couple of guys that said they could use it would need to be a very flat, several square inch section to scan which I think the bags should be able to provide. I'm unsure of my next step. Ideally, I'd love someone here to say "Yah, use part # 1252ZXK from PPG/DuPont/Whatever, it's the OEM color" but I'm not holding my breath. Is matching new OEM paint a normal problem?
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| # ¿ Oct 18, 2011 02:14 |
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Way to make me feel anal guys  Actually, that perspective is kind of misleading. The gouge is very deep - well into the fiberglass. It's about 3" long and quite wide, and it trails off with several smaller ones underneath. It really needs a fill and sand. I guess if it was an old POS or something I wouldn't care as much, but I'm pretty picky.. especially since it's so new. Even my old 99 ST has nothing even approaching the magnitude of that scratch. I think what I'll probably do is the scanning thing and see how it goes. If nothing else if it doesn't turn out as perfection I won't be as concerned. But yeah, I guess I'm pretty 
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| # ¿ Oct 18, 2011 04:34 |
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Gunked up after 2 weeks? If that's the case I'd be buying gas somewhere else. That shouldn't happen so soon IMHO.
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| # ¿ Oct 18, 2011 21:38 |
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Schottingham posted:I don't follow - if I put the pads all the way in, there's no pad material exposed to press against (and I can't see how it would help, unless I'm visualizing this totally wrong). Also what's this about reinstalling the wheel? Why would it have to come off? I've never done a SV, but he's basically saying use the old pad as the tool to lever against so you don't damage the new pad, piston or rotor. The way I've always done it is unbolt caliper, use a cheapo basic C-clamp (or pretty much anything that can clamp from wide) and put one side of the clamp on the back of the caliper and the other on the pad. Squeeze. Oh, and make sure your brake fluid doesn't spill out the reservoir.
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| # ¿ Oct 21, 2011 19:40 |
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Holy simulposts!
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| # ¿ Oct 21, 2011 19:40 |
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I've actually never had a problem riding with a passenger. The most difficult part is probably the whole making sure they're good at getting on/off and not loving around when you are stopped/very low speed and don't expect it.
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| # ¿ Oct 28, 2011 05:13 |
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#35 BALL,STEEL.,8 ? Call me crazy, but I guess, oh, I dunno, 8mm?
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| # ¿ Oct 29, 2011 00:00 |
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_Dav posted:8mm Diameter is a bit huge for where it's got to fit. I've figured I'll just measure the actual hole. Edit: Hole measuring can be tricky if it isn't half the sphere for a hole, so be careful. Double Edit: I'm a bearing guy. 
slidebite fucked around with this message at Oct 29, 2011 around 00:10 |
| # ¿ Oct 29, 2011 00:08 |
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PitViper posted:The Schumacher ones at Wal-Mart are good as well. I've got 2, and a buddy of mine has 4-5 of them for his "toy" vehicles. He and I haven't had any problems with them at all. Tough to beat.
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| # ¿ Nov 2, 2011 21:55 |
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Those certainly work too, but I've yet to see one with smart circuitry so you can certainly overcharge your battery if you're not careful even with single digit wattages.
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| # ¿ Nov 2, 2011 22:26 |
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PitViper posted:Sounds like the Schumacher. Yes it is. http://www.walmart.ca/canada-estore...macher+Electric
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| # ¿ Nov 3, 2011 04:58 |
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Question: A local guy has a set of brand new OEM exhaust off a 2008 ZX14 which will supposedly bolt right on to my 2010 Concours easy-peasy (would need to adjust center stand and buy a left mount). Header & pipes for a couple hundred bucks. This would obviously replace my OEM 4n1. Worthwhile swap? A guy on a connie forum has done it and said it was noticeable, but he re-flashed his ECU too.
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| # ¿ Nov 3, 2011 05:17 |
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2ndclasscitizen posted:It would've been the re-flash that made the difference, not the pipes. I'll probably pass on it then if the consensus is probably not.
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| # ¿ Nov 3, 2011 16:23 |
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| # ¿ May 22, 2013 20:14 |
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the walkin dude posted:The bike has a Power Commander, could be that? Maybe. Here's what I would do: Disconnect the negative cable and put a test light between the battery and the lead. If it the light illuminates a bit you've got a short which could discharge the battery. Start unplugging poo poo/fuses until the light goes out then you've at least found the circuit. If not, you've got an off key draw from something.
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| # ¿ Nov 3, 2011 16:46 |
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