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The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

I bought one of those gallon buckets of carb cleaner. Is this stuff something you can reuse a few times, or should I take it to be disposed? It's yellowish and cloudy now.

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The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

Sorry for the newbie question, but do I need to buy a specific motorcycle tire pressure gauge? I tried using the one from my car and a digital one but neither seemed to give the right tire pressure. They both gave me around 13 psi, which I would guess is drat near flat (which the tire isn't).

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

Ola posted:

You do not need a motorcycle specific gauge. Some fillers might be hard to get in place and give poor reading, but the hissing sound of leaking air should be enough warning in that case. 13 psi is still almost an atmosphere of overpressure, which would not make the tire flat. Have you tried filling it? If you do so with a compressor or at a gas station, you can check with a 2nd 3rd gauge. My bet is both you've tried are correct and you need more air!

I'll take it by a gas station tomorrow and see if I get different readings when I try to fill it up.

I should say that the reading is only with the front tire. It "seals" off so I don't hear any air escaping. On the rear, no matter how I try holding it/configuring the gauge, air is leaking out.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

I just found that my rear tire has an air leak. After testing with some soapy water, I found that the leak is coming from the valve stem. Once I popped the cap off and poured it on again, the bubbles were coming from actually inside the valve stem (valve stem core?). I tried tightening the nut on the stem but that didn't do anything. What will I have to do to fix this?

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

I ended up not tightening my flywheel to spec when I was replacing my crankshaft oil seal, and the dowel used to line up the flywheel timing tore a hole through the crankshaft, and also up in the flywheel as well. (It's an 86 Honda Rebel, if that's important)



I believe the dowel is actually in the right spot there, but it can fall over on its side.



And there you can see where the flywheel was loose, spinning around and tearing up an area around the keyhole.


Is there anything short of replacing both parts that I can do to fix this? I already know that this idea is dumb, but would using something like quiksteel welding epoxy to fill in the hole on the crankshaft back to the original size and then sanding that down work? I'm already sure that that won't work, but I'm trying to see if there's anything that can be done before I start ordering replacement parts.

The Senator Giroux fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jul 17, 2011

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

ReelBigLizard posted:

Not really, epoxy is ok for filling small cracks and such but it doesn't have the strength for this. If you've got a welder who'll work for beer you could get them to fill it in and then re-drill it. Even then, time/cost might still work out in favour of new parts.

I figured as much. I ordered a new flywheel, and I've got a friend who hopefully will be able to weld the crankshaft.

Thanks!

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

Pham Nuwen posted:

Can a CA goon tell me about the rules for driving your new bike home? I'm going to look at a bike on Sunday that I'll probably end up buying. It's from a private owner, so I won't be able to get the registration done there. Am I ok driving it home with the title in my pocket, no insurance card, no registration in my name? I figure on the off chance I get pulled over by a cop (hasn't happened in 10 years of driving, but who knows) he'd probably understand, but I'd love to know if there were regs about that.

You'll at the very least want insurance. Last time I was looking at a new bike, I called my insurance company, told them I was going to buy a new bike, and they started on the initial paperwork. I just had to call back later with the VIN.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

LooksLikeABabyRat posted:

I swapped out my chain and sprockets today on my '85 Honda Rebel 250 (I think both were stock so it was definitely necessary). While my friend and I were adjusting the chain, both chain adjuster bolts snapped (both sides of the wheel). I haven't been able to find any information online about what kind I'd need to use to replace it. Does anyone know what kind I'd need to get to replace them. Here's a picture of the assembly, it's what the small nut screws onto in the yellow circle on the left, not the bigger one. Motorcycle superstore has ones for cr250s, and ebay has completed listings for ones for '86 Rebels, but not my year. Any advice or help would be appreciated.




The chain adjusters are an assembly that go into the swingarm, with the axle going through them. There's not really a way to replace just the bolts, so you'll have to replace the assembly. You just take the axle out, slide them out, and put in the new ones. You can find them on eBay for pretty cheap usually.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

I have a Rebel, which is pretty similar to the CM250c. The fastest I've ever gotten it (with some luggage) is 75 mph, which was redline and took pretty ideal situations.

The only time I've ever felt that I wanted more power was when I did a long-distance trip (Atlanta to Dallas) on the highway, and that was more because I could keep up with the speed limit, but not much more than that. When I hit the Texas border and the speed limit went from 70 to 75, I had a little more trouble. But really, I ran it full-throttle that whole way and it still works like a charm.

Unless you're really wanting a lot more speed, it'll be fine.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

What would be the best method of cleaning up an engine part like a crankshaft? I pulled apart a junkyard engine, and I'm just nervous there may be dirt that got on the part.
I figure water would run the risk of rusting it, so maybe WD40? Or liquid wrench maybe?

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

Xovaan posted:

Anybody have recommendations for a battery tender? Any difference between getting http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...nder+motorcycle and http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...nder+motorcycle other than price?

I have the Battery Tender Jr and I like it a lot. It works better than the Black and Decker Tender I bought (it seemed to never switch to float mode and the battery started going 14.75+).

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

When I checked two summers ago, AAA had motorcycle towing available at the RV tier, but it's not nationwide. If you break down in a state without it, you're SOL.

I ended up going with Paragon Motor Club. Motorcycles are covered on both plans, it's national, and the biggest plan covers up to 100 miles.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

SaNChEzZ posted:

Not true. It's up to the driver if they tow your vehicle or not, get the regular AAA, tell them your car broke down and you need a flatbed. When the driver gets there, slip em' enough for a sixer after work and they'll usually do it. It doesn't matter what they're towing, they still get paid all the same.

If anything it's easier to load a bike than a car onto a flatbed anyhow.

Good point. I was more or less saying what AAA told me when I called and asked them.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

Would something like left handed drill bits be useful here? I mean, best case scenario it pulls the bolt free. Worst case, he just drills out the bolt anyway.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

Slavvy posted:

That looks like a pretty standard setup. There is a circular crush gasket that sits inside the exhaust port, the 'face' of the pipe is forced against it. The clamp is just there to apply pressure and has no sealing function. It looks to me like the clamp isn't sitting on the exhaust pipe ring and is therefore applying no pressure at all to force the pipe against the gasket. Alternatively the gasket is missing/hosed and the pipe is sitting too far in. I'd take the headers off and check, you'll quickly see how it works when you have the pipe off.

If you're going to go through with pulling the headers to check the crush gaskets, I'd go ahead and just order new ones and put em in. They're cheap enough and it's as easy way to check that off your troubleshooting list.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

I've used Shoe Goo to secure insoles before.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

I get my parts at Mountain Motorsports Marietta. They're nice enough and pretty quick at getting the parts. I can't speak of much else for them.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

astrollinthepork posted:

Yeah not happening, they're just superficial scrapes.

If you're going to paint the cover, you could try JB weld. I was reading about body filler for powdercoating and that usually came up (along with Lab Metal, which is pretty pricey).
If it can withstand the powdercoating temps, I'd think it would be fine for scratches on a stator cover.

The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

Sagebrush posted:

I buy stuff from here, because Hondas use 3.5mm bullet connectors that don't appear to be used on any other brands.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/

However if I'm rewiring something myself entirely, I tend to use Molex Mini-Fit Jr. or Micro-Fit connectors. They're nice -- Mini-Fits are the connectors on top of your graphics card, and Micro-Fits are slightly more compact versions of the same.

Are those Molex connectors okay for being out in the elements? I'm about to start wiring a project bike and am starting to look at what all I need.

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The Senator Giroux
Jul 9, 2006
Dead Ringer

SquadronROE posted:

Anyone have a good diagram of how a carb actually works and the different pieces that might need to be adjusted? The diagram on Wikipedia is good but I'm curious as to how it works in motion.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uMAKyTvjqaQ

This made a lot of sense to me recently.

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