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anachrodragon posted:I was thinking about the discussion of designer mutts and "hybrid vigor" when I saw this article: Wow. Did you check out the comment section in that link? I'm surprised at the malice aimed at the woman who's bitch it was. Edit: After doing some digging I found the breeder's website, and there is a page dedicated to the xPyr litter. Check it out here. a life less fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Nov 6, 2009 |
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Nov 6, 2009 17:39
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The Dave posted:greenfieldpuppies.com Holy crap - I went to check out the Mini Aussies on that site out of morbid curiousity, and I was aghast when I saw this. Clearly the pup is a product of a double merle pairing, and is suffering from Microphthalmia. It disgusts me that they're selling this puppy as healthy, and that some people might buy it not knowing any better. "Health guaranteed" my rear end. edit: I submitted something to the site trying to alert them of this. a life less fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Dec 15, 2009 |
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Dec 15, 2009 01:14
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amishsexpot posted:Do any of your Corgis chew and eat sticks? A dog at my park had to be rushed to the emergency for eating sticks -- they'd become lodged in its throat, blocked its airway, and it collapsed. A thousand dollars later it's still alive and kicking. Sticks can be dangerous if your dog is consuming them.
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Feb 3, 2010 19:08
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Rootbeer Baron posted:The breeders had been showing her but she wasn't winning the big shows since her butt was a little high, ... Do you have a photo of her stacked? I'm always curious about the finer details of conformation. She's absolutely beautiful. One day I might have a corgi, but for now I'll stick with my monstrous aussie.
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Jun 28, 2010 13:02
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Citizen Insane posted:drat. I was looking around at Cardigan breeders in Texas for a friend and it's genuinely hard to find any that OFA test. None of the breeders linked to on the official breed registry's website seem to be very diligent about it; these folks seem alright in that they title their dogs and only have a single litter a year at most, but only one of their dogs has an OFA listing. The rest just have PRAs. This is an interesting article about why a lot of corgi breeders choose not to test hips: http://blacksheepcardigans.com/ruff/dog-health/being-a-good-breeder/ I think it boils down to OFA and PennHip being good measures of hip quality for breeds like Labs, Aussies, and other similarly shaped dogs, but are insufficient for the body type of Corgis. Based on what I've read I wouldn't automatically rule out a breeder because they choose not to go through official hip registries. But I am not a Corgi owner, so I'm not nearly as educated as I could be.
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Aug 17, 2010 18:04
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anachrodragon posted:It would probably be a great time to practice "stay" specifically. She has this habit of deciding for herself what the length of a stay should be. It's really hard to keep her from bouncing around. Yesterday, we were watching her carefully, and then she bounced excitedly after we'd already given her a treat for a nice calm greeting. Then she was limping afterward and I felt like poo poo. Teach your dog to limp! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qrtww7CPf0c (Note, might not actually be a good idea -- it depends on what muscles were strained, and how much pressure holding a leg up puts on her body.) I would use this time to make her a trick-doer-extraordinaire. Start looking into the weird ones if you run out of the normal run of the mill tricks. My dog loves training sessions -- her tail wags like crazy, and then afterwards she often passes out. If you do go this way, I would start work on a pivot and work on hind-end awareness -- it's the key to more advanced tricks. Other than that, interesting chews, hiding treats. Maybe some nosework if you're so inclined.
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Jan 19, 2011 17:32
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Taxidermy posted:Hello fellow corgi owners! I need your opinions on my little dude. Ive had a few comments recently that hes looking overweight/tubby but my vet said his weight was fine in his last check up (September), so im worried hes packed on the pounds. I hate to say it, but he looks pretty pudgy. Especially for a 2 year old. The rolls on his shoulder and lack of a definite waist aren't good signs. Here's a photo that, in my opinion, is of the ideal (Pembroke) Corgi body.  Note the tuck up and the indentation at the underside of the waist. Can you feel his ribs by gently running your hand along his side? Ribs should have a thin layer of fat covering them -- operative word, thin. In this day and age it's easy to misjudge what that means. I heard someone explain it by saying that a dog's side should feel like the bones on the back of your hand when you make a loose fist. In my opinion, vets misjudge dogs' weights all the time since they become so accustomed to overweight dogs, and clients can take it quite personally when told they're overfeeding/underexercising their pets.
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Jan 21, 2011 02:02
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Taxidermy posted:Whats the best thing to do? Ive never had an overweight dog and its hard to judge that he is overweight because his uncle and father were even bigger than him and my breeder told me he was fine too. I should say that I don't own a Corgi myself (I have an Aussie). I feel a bit guilty barging into the Corgi thread and offering up weight advice. I keep my dog on the thin side of normal since she's a sport dog, plus skinny dogs do tend to live longer. If I'm wrong, Corgi-folks, please let me know! How much do you feed him? I would reduce food by maybe 10-15% and increase exercise by maybe 1/2 hour a day. Just like in people, weight is put on by eating too much and not being active enough. If he still seems hungry (which he shouldn't if you reduce his food by a small amount) you can supplement with lo-cal snacks like green beans. Weight should come off gradually. You can start weighing him by picking him up and weighing the two of you together, then just yourself to determine the difference. Or you can explain your situation to the vet and you can probably drop by the office for a complimentary weekly weigh-in.
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Jan 21, 2011 03:28
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Gray Stormy posted:Ill check it out ASAP. I dunno... I would probably feed your pup all she wants for the first few months, and not worry about her figure until she's 6-8 months old. But yeah, definitely get her on some better food.
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May 4, 2011 16:29
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Gray Stormy posted:Lola has that same lion What kind of travel crate? If it's a canvas/mesh one, it's not secure and really should only be used as a temp when you're out and about. If it's one of those plastic airliner crates, it really doesn't matter beyond what aliceamadee said.
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Jun 13, 2011 22:12
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Crunk Abortion posted:She doesn't respond to a whole lot. I think part of it might just be homesickness and stress from being somewhere new, but she's been pretty listless the past few days. That's a bit sad. My guess is that the stress of the move is causing her to shut down a bit. I worry that she's the byproduct of an individual more concerned with showing dogs than the health and welfare of the dogs they show... but that's probably me just being a paranoid rear end in a top hat. Keep on keeping on, and keep exposing her to play and food rewards. Capitalize on the moment when you first get home (when she's likely to be most excited) and run off and grab a toy and play with her for 30 seconds or so. Stop before she loses interest and end on a high note. Use meals as training opportunities. Every bit of kibble she gets can be delivered by hand. As she gets more comfortable you can start asking for a behaviour or two per kibble. She's definitely not too old to learn new behaviours. She's just shy and a bit shut down.
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Jul 12, 2011 15:49
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ButWhatIf posted:Just got an email (well, SEVEN emails) from Paul Chen of Afara today... Yeah, I would call. If you can't get in touch with them, email. I would request that the breeder match you with a pup assuming you have no preference. I imagine the breeder has a pretty good idea of what you're looking for, but if not I guess (re)make your list and make sure they understand what you're looking for. Good luck. How exciting!
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Aug 11, 2011 20:44
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OneWhoKnows posted:It's amazing how instinctual dogs are. Marley had never seen a cow before, but we took him to friend's farm and let him loose just to see what he'd do. He joined the Australian cattle dog and they worked together in herding the cattle. Amazing. It's interesting: we have a farm in the heart of the city. They have cows, sheep and other things. My Australian Shepherd can pass by the cows without batting an eyelash, but she goes into super excited stalk/herd mode for the sheep. Someone should tell her she was born to herd both.
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Aug 12, 2011 01:17
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Holy crap, congrats. Where's she from? Let's see some links to the rest of the litter! I have a soft spot for mismarks. She looks a LOT like the pup I first had my eye on from Cohen's litter. Only, well, a Corgi.
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Sep 12, 2011 17:16
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ButWhatIf posted:I may get the test done, but I did see pigment in both ears, so it'll probably get done further down the road. She's technically not a merle, herself, and according to the breeder, the only time he's ever heard of hearing problems in Cardis is in double merles. I did some reading up on pattern headed when I was looking at that white headed Aussie puppy I showed you. Basically while hearing loss is less likely when it's pattern white vs homozygous merle, it still is a risk since the mechanism for the development for pigmentless cells is tied to the development of the cells in the inner ear. You can't determine a dog's hearing status by looking at the visible hair near by or in the ears. The odds are definitely way in your favour, but a hearing test is something I'd definitely consider soonish.
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Sep 16, 2011 19:23
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aliceamadee posted:The place I'm going to had an agility for puppies class that I wish I'd known about when Orbit was younger. He's only 5 months though, so it's not like we're starting late! The puppy agility classes are normally more about getting pups comfortable on new surfaces and going over/under/through things, plus listening to their handler when there are other playful pups around. The biggest challenge is probably the wobble board, which is the precursor to the teeter, since it shifts as the pup walks across it, and can make a bit of noise. Don't worry, you're not missing too much, and you can do some of that at home!
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Oct 7, 2011 18:47
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Tristesse posted:They're herding dogs (not ratters) and rely on nipping heels to accomplish this. In the other thread, ratting was mentioned because working Corgis are general farm dogs, and dispensing pests was considered part of the job description. Herding puppies in general are incredibly nippy. Some grow out of it, some do not. If you're adopting an older dog whose temperament has been thoroughly vetted you should be okay.
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Oct 12, 2011 15:08
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Crate yo' dog! Or seatbelt it in. It should help some of the distrust your boyfriend has of the potential pup.
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Apr 2, 2012 23:29
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FloppyDiskCommando posted:I guess my question is will a corgi run around like a retard while I cook things or can I trust it to not be incredibly neurotic like my sister's new dog. I'm less worried about the energy level since I had to walk the whippet or play with it two or three times a day. I'm more worried about training a dog than anything else and from what I've read Corgis are on the smarter spectrum of things. Also they seem to be less afflicted by genetic things which is a big concern of mine because my sister's whippet has epilepsy and other sad doggy things. "Bugging you while you make dinner" is probably not something we can predict for you. It depends on how you train your dog, and how much exercise you're able to provide it (both mental and physical). Quite honestly, you don't sound like you're prepared to handle a lot of the neuroticism that comes with Corgis and the other herding breeds. Can you find a mellow Corgi? Sure! Can you rely on finding a mellow Corgi? Hell no. Plan for the worst and hope for the best, you know? So your Corgi may be the coolest, quietest, friendliest dog in the world. Or it will bug you while you make dinner, bark at strangers, require 5+ hours a day of interaction to tire it out, and may never truly settle in your house. If the dog turns out to be the latter, can you handle that?
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May 11, 2012 18:18
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While it's not likely, he looks like he could have English Shepherd in him.  English Shepherds aren't exactly common, and mostly get mistaken for herder mutts. But dang if he doesn't look like one. For teaching a dog to speak, you kind of need to capture it to start with. I was gifted with a very vocal dog, so "speak" was one of the first things she ever learned. She used to get reaaaaally excited about the hand touch game (jam your nose into my palm, now jam your nose into my palm OVER HERE!) so she would bark with each repetition. I captured the barking using my hand touch cue (but started to add distance so nose-in-palm wasn't necessary) and re-taught "touch" from scratch, this time without barking. Sometimes you just have to be resourceful in how you capture new behaviours. Maybe try eliciting barking in the morning, or right when you get home from work, or whenever he's all zoomie and hyper.
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Jun 9, 2012 15:06
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Asking a breeder straight up "do you inbreed" sounds a little... ignorant. Obviously we don't want dogs who are inbred to hell and back, but since we're talking about purebred dogs they're almost all inbred to some degree. I think a better way to phrase the question would be to ask her whether she linebreeds, and if so, why. Linebreeding or "inbreeding" in and of itself is not an automatic red flag, but it's surely a reason to proceed with caution, and the breeder would need to have a hell of a reason to do so. Why ask about who the vet is? I guess it could be helpful, but... I guess I don't see much reason in asking this either. Same with asking how much exercise her dogs get. It might be better to ask what sort of activities they do. The amount her dogs exercise will have little bearing on your potential future puppy (same with how long she leaves them alone, or who cares for them). Basically you're not quizzing her on how well she cares for her dogs on a day to day basis - that's not really your concern, and could get someone's back up if they feel you're being nosy/critical over inconsequential things. You could ask about the goal of her breeding program. What is she trying to achieve in her dogs?
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Jun 25, 2012 15:56
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A lot of PIers feel that dogs shouldn't be kept outdoors when you're not around to supervise. Not only is it less safe, for a yappy (and quite possibly bored) dog like a Corgi it sounds like it'd be a recipe for barkbarkbarking all day long. The pup won't likely play with his toys or run around much when you're not around. I think leaving him outside has more cons than pros.
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Jul 11, 2012 17:23
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For a high profile breeder, contacting them a year in advance isn't unreasonable. Some breeder are terrible at returning emails however, so if you don't hear back from them in 2-3 weeks, give them a call.
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Jul 17, 2012 18:49
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It sounds like you may benefit more from private lessons to lay the groundwork before you move on to group lessons. How long are your classes? 1hr 30 mins is a HUUUUGEly long class for a dog -- perhaps I'm misunderstanding you? Why are other dogs more exciting than you? Are you not as fun and engaging as other dogs? What might you be able to do to start upping your value to your dog? Better, more varied treats? More exciting tone of voice? Rewarding with play? Can your instructor set up some sort of barrier between him and the other dogs so he's not able to stare at anyone? Can you add distance? Can you work in a corner? In another room? Consider having him give you attention before he gets anything he wants. Don't ask for it (THIS IS IMPORTANT) - just wait him out and let him see that the quickest way for him to get something he wants is to look to you. Work slowly, especially to start. It sounds like you should probably be offering reinforcement roughly once per second for good behaviour - most beginners do not reward often enough. Are you rewarding him when he's quietly sitting beside you? Or do you ignore him for the most part and only react when he's lunging, barking, and pulling away? I see loads of our clients forget to reward the dog when it's being good it's so easy to ignore. Just a few quick thoughts on your issues.
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Aug 9, 2012 20:33
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Dogs work best in 5-10 minute periods. Our classes are 45 minutes, and by about the half-hour mark most of the dogs are showing signs of being worn out. The longer classes are for the handlers more than the dogs. Consider bringing a crate to get him to relax a bit between exercises if your classes are going to be that long. He sounds overstimulated. Wearing him out a bit before class and ensuring that he's particularly hungry will work in your favour. Also make sure that your treats aren't too big. For a dog the size of a Corgi I would be providing treats no bigger than my pinky fingernail unless it was some sort of jackpot. Also, once a dog knows a behaviour you really need to ask yourself WHY you're feeding the dog. In our more advanced classes we suggest only rewarding the dog for new or improved behaviour. That way the dogs are always having to strive a little harder to earn their keep. If you can get solid eye contact for 1 second, sometimes wait until 2 seconds to mark and reward. Then start to stretch it to 3, etc. Another tactic is to ping-pong your reinforcement schedule. As in sometimes ask for 3 behaviours in a row before rewarding, then 1, then 10, then 3, then 5, then 3... And every once in a while offer a jackpot reward for a relatively simple behaviour. It's a good way to make yourself unpredictable and engaging to your pup.
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Aug 9, 2012 21:44
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Break Fast posted:This is great to hear. Guinness has definitely calmed down a notch gradually over his first year, but is still categorized under hyper-active dog category. Will see how he does approaching the second year. 1. Get thee to the Dog Training Thread wherein you will read about classical conditioning. 2. Get thee to a trainer who specializes in dog-dog reactivitiy and will help you employ classical conditioning and, perhaps, behaviour adjustment training 3. Keep a wide berth of strange dogs who may trigger a reaction from him. The more he practices this behaviour the more deeply ingrained it will be. Understand where his threshold is and always work near it, but don't push it.
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Jan 26, 2013 14:19
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We talk a lot about retrieving in the Dog Training Megathread. I'd specifically recommend teaching a back chained retrieve. Best thing I ever taught my dog. 
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Mar 13, 2013 14:48
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You can try Skinneez dog toys, but basically no stuffed animal toy is dog proof, so get used to picking up bits of stuffing off the floor for the rest of your life. For resource guarding, we chat about it a bit in the Dog Training Megathread. Consider picking up the book Mine by Jean Donaldson. It'll walk you through how to deal with resource guarding in a safe and productive way.
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May 2, 2013 18:40
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I use diluted shampoo for the face in particular (though you should be diluting the shampoo for the whole body... just more diluted for the face). I tend to focus on behind the ears and under the jaw for my dog. I don't think I've ever actively tried to wash a snout. While rinsing I try to cover the ears with my hands to minimize the amount of water which runs in, and I don't ever spray them directly.
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May 7, 2013 20:30
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I was wondering where Corwin had gone. Glad to see he's photogenic as always.
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May 16, 2013 13:24
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systran posted:I live in Florida and I feel like the cost is way lower here. I called around to several breeders and the only ones that broke the $1,000 mark were for "CHAMPIONSHIP DOGS" or whatever the gently caress she called them. She refused to leave the tail on those etc. Most breeders are called were like $500-$750. Just FYI, this is a pretty mediocre looking breeder -- sort of one of those "you get what you pay for" of places. I'm sure your dog is lovely, but the breeder could be doing much better for the breed. As a very very general rule of thumb, I expect to pay about $1k+ for a dog with proven parents with full health testing.
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May 21, 2013 13:39
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phootnote posted:Does the cost of corgi guarantee anything? I know this breeder wants you to bring back the corgi if you cannot take care of it for some reason. There are no guarantees in dogs. The cost of the dog is going to be roughly proportionate to the amount of money the breeder puts into their dogs. Shows, sports, health testing, quality food, care for the dam and pups pre and post whelp, etc all cost a great deal of money. Dogs aren't a cheap hobby and it's normally just a way to recoup some of the associated costs.
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May 21, 2013 16:30
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Millions posted:Do any of your corgis get nervous around big dogs? Tegan is perfectly fine around anything around her size, but even smallish medium sized dogs make her start growling if they get too close and friendly. She's fine when they're around and not approaching her, but if they come on too strong she'll growl and eventually snap at them. I don't think her previous owner socialized her very well, she doesn't even really know how to play with other dogs and gets immensely pissed if they get play-rough with her. Guess I'd better start looking up good behavior specialists in Indianapolis... herdingdog.txt While I commend you for wanting to address your dog's undesirable behaviour, and while you absolutely can reduce the incidence of the snaps etc, that kind of intolerance to rude doggy behaviour is common among dogs in general and herding breeds in particular. It's not really a socialization issue, but a personality one. I deal with it in my herder by never milling around long enough to allow prolonged face to face greetings with strange dogs (I'm always walking, even in dog parks), building a solid recall so I can call her away from possibly tense situations before they escalate and doing some basic classical conditioning and desensitization. Also consider cutting out dog parks entirely and only holding play dates with dogs she knows.
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Oct 28, 2013 23:53
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Too cute.  Happy Teganday.
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Mar 12, 2014 02:19
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Try a shedding blade. They look like bent over saws. I would probably use a zoom groom, a shedding blade and a comb or slicker on a corgi.
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Apr 2, 2014 20:23
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The Dave posted:I love that first beach picture. My own picture content: Every since hunting a chipmonk in our basement Taziki has been super crazy with sniffing out every room she goes into. I love that shot.
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May 15, 2014 16:24
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Ornamented Death posted:My wife and I thought about adopting another dog. George is very sociable everywhere except in our (HIS) house. He goes to doggy day care on occasion and the folks there say he's the friendliest dog ever, as do folks at the groomer, but let another dog come into his house and he goes ballistic. So that killed that idea. Slow introductions + training = second dog a possibility if you want.
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May 20, 2014 12:16
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Lava posted:Yes she is a real corgi even though she has a tail Thank goodness you cleared that up. Otherwise we would be hopelessly confused! It's nice to see a trim and active one like yours.
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May 23, 2014 15:08
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 There are toys that are meant to be de-stuffed/restuffed. It's not exactly the same, but dogs find it pretty satisfying. I would still supervise use though.
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Jun 19, 2014 18:20
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Bardo posted:Talloulah is a drat peach. I was worried when getting her as I live in an apartment complex, but she doesn't bark at anything or anyone unless they're coming into the house. She also likes to play with the Great Dane that lives around. She licks dirt. This may be a honeymoon period thing. Use it to your advantage to reward her not alerting at possibly startling sounds, people moving about, etc. Don't take it for granted at this point.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:26
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