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 A while back, one of my SB-24's took a tumble from a light stand (thanks to wobbly-rear end Cactus triggers, stripped the hotshoe mount off of them and now velcro them to the sides and use PC cords). Everything still works fine and it still discharges normally, but the "translucent diffuser thing where the light comes out of" is cracked. Does anyone know a place that might stock the part? I don't really want to send it for repair; I'm sure it's something I can do myself and it probably isn't worthwhile to pay a tech to fix it. I just snagged a 430EX on Craigslist for $115 (wasn't really looking for another hotshoe flash, but I didn't have anything TTL and at that price might as well), and I've been thinking I need to reshuffle my selection of lighting equipment. As it is I probably have too many speedlights; I originally had just the 2 SB-24's for the 2 Cactus triggers, but a 3rd at KEH wound up following another order home because it was only $60. I would say 3 is probably the maximum I'd need if I stayed all speedlight, but more realistically I think I could make do with 1-2. What I have:  SB-24 (x3) 430EX (x1) Cactus Trigger (x2) and Commander (X1) Lumipro Light Stand Umbrella Stand 43" Westcott Umbrellas (x2, one shoot through, one silver) Avenger Clamp (bought this more to use with a camera, but haven't bought a Magic Arm yet) Gels I guess a lot of people's first reaction would be to dump the Cacti and get some nicer wireless triggers, but for the amateur noodling I do I don't really feel like the expense is justified. Pocket Wizards are definitely out, although if there was another system I could get for $100-200 I might consider it. The Cacti aren't great, but they're generally good enough and for the price I'm not complaining. I've been hesitant about getting Alien Bees up until now because I generally shoot travel, so they'd wind up getting left at home for the most part. I might be moving later this year and have a chance to set up a spare room as a studio, but I'm not certain yet. Regardless, weight is a pretty important concern for me; I'm not looking to add much more than 10 pounds to what I already have. I see on the website the B400 itself weighs 2.5lbs, but how much more weight/cost would I need to add for a stand, head, and modifiers? As reluctant as I am to buy something not portable, I guess I could always sell it for near enough what I paid if I decided to move and not bring it. I'd like to have at least one speedlight that's compatible with Canon's TTL system, but it doesn't have to be 430EX (I like the size, but the ergonomics aren't the best and the lack of a built-in PC terminal is a bit of a turnoff). I was considering the Sigma 530 DG Super, although a secondhand 550EX/580EX might not be out of the question. I don't shoot events regularly, but I've heard the Sigma has a shittier recycle time. I guess I'd probably want another light stand/umbrella head, although the model would depend on if I went with the AB or a second speedlight. I'd prefer them as compact/light as I can get away with. I buy most of my stuff secondhand, so "sell this, buy that" advice is welcome. To be honest I don't have a really great idea of what I need, I'd just like to optimize the pile of crap I have now to give me a good base to start with. tl;dr - help me thin this poo poo out and buy good stuff, preferably not heavy or Pocket Wizards. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at Apr 23, 2009 around 17:42 |
| # ? Apr 23, 2009 17:39 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 02:26 |
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How do you guys connect your radio triggers to your flashes? If the flash is on a stand and the radio trigger connects to the flash via sync chord, where does the trigger go? Do you secure it via velcro? Let it dangle?
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 18:31 |
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Mannequin posted:How do you guys connect your radio triggers to your flashes? If the flash is on a stand and the radio trigger connects to the flash via sync chord, where does the trigger go? Do you secure it via velcro? Let it dangle?
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 18:53 |
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Mannequin posted:How do you guys connect your radio triggers to your flashes? If the flash is on a stand and the radio trigger connects to the flash via sync chord, where does the trigger go? Do you secure it via velcro? Let it dangle? I put velcro on top of the flash. I suppose a bounce card could also attach at that point when shooting on camera, though I haven't tried it yet.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 18:57 |
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Mannequin posted:How do you guys connect your radio triggers to your flashes? If the flash is on a stand and the radio trigger connects to the flash via sync chord, where does the trigger go? Do you secure it via velcro? Let it dangle? A separate velcro strip on the back of the flash. That's when the massive bulk of the 285HV becomes an advantage. Lots of surface area. I still usually put a wrap of tape around both the trigger and flash to keep the trigger from falling off accidentally.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 19:04 |
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Rubber bands work great, too. That's generally what I use, haven't had a problem with it yet. If you can find a black rubber band, it's even better.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 19:15 |
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Mannequin posted:How do you guys connect your radio triggers to your flashes? If the flash is on a stand and the radio trigger connects to the flash via sync chord, where does the trigger go? Do you secure it via velcro? Let it dangle? I have these for most of my PW's since it costs about the same to get them included: http://www.mpex.com/page.htm?PG=PW%20Caddy I don't use the elastic as anything other than a loop to hang off of a stand, usually. Occasionally I'll wrap one around a flash to make a nice compact hand-held unit. Actually, now that I think about it, the PocketWizards come with one of those little cell-phone straps anyways. I like the caddies better, though
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 20:57 |
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poopinmymouth posted:I want a light source to use for male portraits. My goal is to keep jet black shadows, contrasty light for showing off the skull structure, and rake lighting for skin texture. However I do want it soft enough to be flattering (I'm specifically only going to shoot attractive models, so I don't want light that hides or disguises) without harsh hotspots. Softbox with a grid is what you want, yeah. The grid just makes it more directional and shortens the spread, it's still soft. I don't know if those Chimera's have a second baffle on the inside but you can use that to soften it even more. Also larger light source = softer so XXS may not be the way to go. I would be interested in seeing a comparison between a hotshoe flash and a larger strobe through the same modifier, I don't know how much the smaller light factors into that. quote:As reluctant as I am to buy something not portable, I guess I could always sell it for near enough what I paid if I decided to move and not bring it. I always think it's funny to hear people talk about how monolights aren't portable (especially the AB's, which are really light compared to.. everything else) because that is what they are designed for. If you are asking if there is something in between a battery powered flash and the already ultra-portable and light AB the answer is not really. FWIW I think my White Lightning's are like 7lb-ish and I have no problem carrying 2 of them in soft bags, a big stand bag with modifiers and heavy stands, a battery, and my camera poo poo in a backpack by myself which is enough gear for a lot of situations. I did that for a job yesterday. Even when I have everything in big Pelican cases I can usually move most of it by myself to and from locations without too much trouble (protip: you stack the smaller cases or stand bags on the biggest one with wheels and balance them against the pull-out handle). I know the definition of "portable" is relative but at some point you have to make a trade off between weight and bulk vs. flexibility and options with your light. Even if you're using battery powered flashes and tiny stands it seems like you would need sandbags on location if you have any kind of modifier. Work a few shoots where you carry C-stands and Profoto packs around all day and suddenly some 2lb AB's are nothing  .Maybe look into Speedotron's Explorer series (I don't know if you're opposed to packs) because those are pretty portable and solid lights. A lot more expensive than AB's though. quote:How do you guys connect your radio triggers to your flashes? If the flash is on a stand and the radio trigger connects to the flash via sync chord, where does the trigger go? Do you secure it via velcro? Let it dangle? PW's have these little straps and I just hang them from the stand tightener knob thingie. This is what I've always done assisting too unless someone has velcro. brad industry fucked around with this message at Apr 23, 2009 around 21:25 |
| # ? Apr 23, 2009 21:22 |
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brad industry posted:I always think it's funny to hear people talk about how monolights aren't portable (especially the AB's, which are really light compared to.. everything else) because that is what they are designed for. If you are asking if there is something in between a battery powered flash and the already ultra-portable and light AB the answer is not really. Quantum Flashes
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 21:44 |
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I always forget about those things, I haven't used them much. Anyone here use them on a regular basis?
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 22:10 |
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brad industry posted:I always forget about those things, I haven't used them much. Anyone here use them on a regular basis? I've worked with a photographer who had to use one as a backup and it was pretty mediocre. The build quality (on the two I've seen, though they might be a bit older) seemed pretty cheap as well. They SEEM like a nice alternative to a regular hotshoe or monolight but unless you absolutely NEED something smaller than an AB and a Vagabond (or more power than another battery powered flash) I really couldn't recommend them.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 22:27 |
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There's also the lumedyne style battery packs and heads. For the size of the total package it seems like they give a decent amount of light, though I've never used on myself.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 22:40 |
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brad industry posted:I always think it's funny to hear people talk about how monolights aren't portable (especially the AB's, which are really light compared to.. everything else) because that is what they are designed for. If you are asking if there is something in between a battery powered flash and the already ultra-portable and light AB the answer is not really. By portable mostly what I mean is that they can be used in a remote location, or basically anywhere without wall power. I know AB's are pretty near as light as you can get with monolights, but being bound to a wall socket or bigass battery is pretty contrary to the way I've always shot and I've avoided them until now for that reason. To clarify on the weight thing, 2.5 pounds or 10 pounds or whatever isn't the end of the world to carry to a site, but if I'm moving I'll be basically packing everything I need for a year+ into two suitcases, and uneccessarily heavy/bulky lighting equipment going each way isn't going to help. I've been bouncing between home/other countries pretty much every other year for a while, and stuff like that does add up. So basically, with a B400, what's the lightest weight support/modifiers I can get away with, assuming I'm using them indoors and/or sandbagging? Those Quantums seem ideal, but probably more than I'm willing to spend on lighting equipment right now.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 22:59 |
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powderific posted:There's also the lumedyne style battery packs and heads. For the size of the total package it seems like they give a decent amount of light, though I've never used on myself. I worked with a guy who uses Lumedynes for car photography (on a "everything he shoots with goes in the trunk of the car he's photographing" theory), I guess they work well but they just seem so... ghetto, I guess. To me they seemed pretty cheapy, and the fact that they wouldn't work at all (as in, he just couldn't use them) when I was with him didn't really sell them to me. They're pretty expensive for what they are I think.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2009 23:32 |
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Hot Cops posted:I've worked with a photographer who had to use one as a backup and it was pretty mediocre. The build quality (on the two I've seen, though they might be a bit older) seemed pretty cheap as well. They SEEM like a nice alternative to a regular hotshoe or monolight but unless you absolutely NEED something smaller than an AB and a Vagabond (or more power than another battery powered flash) I really couldn't recommend them. This was basically my impression of them and why I never used them more than once or twice (my school had a bunch you could check out). The light that comes out of those things isn't exactly nice either, they seemed more useful for event or wedding stuff where sheer power and getting things lit up are the only real concerns. I haven't used any of these newer ones on their website though. Pompous Rhombus posted:By portable mostly what I mean is that they can be used in a remote location, or basically anywhere without wall power. I know AB's are pretty near as light as you can get with monolights, but being bound to a wall socket or bigass battery is pretty contrary to the way I've always shot and I've avoided them until now for that reason. If you have money to spend and are traveling a lot I would seriously look at Speedotron. They are designed for traveling and location photographers and are up there in quality with Profoto, I know a lot of photographers who swear by them. They sell kits that will fit 2-3 heads and everything else you need into a single case, don't need outlet power, and several of their packs have the ability to switch between US and European power built in for charging for when you're out of the country. All packs and batteries are heavy, but in my experience the Speedotron stuff is lighter than the equivalent (and more expensive) Profoto location systems (Acute B). The other advantage of a pack system for location work is that you can get away with lighter stands / no sandbags because the heads weigh nothing compared to monolights. edit: http://www.speedotron.com/products/...system_packages brad industry fucked around with this message at Apr 24, 2009 around 00:11 |
| # ? Apr 24, 2009 00:04 |
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brad industry posted:edit: Those sound awesome (I see what you mean about keeping the powerpack on the ground, and you can power multiple heads with one), prices seem reasonable on eBay, but apparently they don't really have much manual control? I found a few forum links and people were saying you have to move them forward/back or use ND filters to control the light, although they do have the symmetrical/asymmetrical toggle going. I'm not really sure I understand how pack systems work (and I'm not finding any good results in Google), is there a good FAQ laying around that could tell me more?
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 02:47 |
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Well poo poo, I just wrote a long post explaining the difference between symmetrical/asymmetrical but my internet ate it. People on forums may be talking about the older models. Most modern packs of all brands are capable of both, although I am no expert on the Speedotron line so maybe some of them are (I've never seen one). Basically in a monolight each head is it's own pack, it has it's own self contained set of circuits for regulating the power, so you can set it at whatever you want. On pack and head systems there is one set of controls and one set of electronics, so the way you set light ratios is to split the total amount of power between however many heads you have. On symmetrical packs you can only split it even, so it's like 1 head at 100% or 2 heads at 50% or whatever. There are ways around those limits (ND filters, using extra heads to 'bleed' power off set) but it's kind of a pain in the rear end to deal with. On asymmetrical packs you can split up the power unevenly which gives you a lot more options ratio wise without having to do a work around. When you change modes or power on a pack you are literally re-routing the path the energy takes before it gets to the heads. This sounds complicated but it's actually really simple once you do it once or twice, and to the benefit of assistants everywhere pretty much all packs have little diagrams or flow charts on the side telling you how to set it to get whatever ratio you're going for.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 03:33 |
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But it's so much simpler to control ratios on a Speedlite!  And nevermind, I answered my own question. Hurr. germskr fucked around with this message at Apr 24, 2009 around 03:44 |
| # ? Apr 24, 2009 03:37 |
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germskr posted:But it's so much simpler to control ratios on a Speedlite! Let me be the first to say... my rear end it is. Trying to work out ratios with different speedlights of different powers (which you really can't get any meaningful numbers about), at different zooms, etc. It's real fun trying to work out how 1/8 power on an SB 800 compares to 1/2 power on an SB 600 when the 800 is 1 1/3 stops brighter but its a bit further away and oh god. Of course, real men just get light meters and make it all really easy. Edit for your edit: Only if the two slaves are controlled by something that can set their power (like CLS), and are the same model of flash. Otherwise you'll have to start doing calculations.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 03:42 |
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Well it's nice that I have two 580 EXIIs but I was being somewhat facetious hence the . The ST-E2 works for control but it's range and effectiveness outdoors pretty much makes it a $200 paper weight. I need to buy some PWs asap.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 03:47 |
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germskr posted:Well it's nice that I have two 580 EXIIs but I was being somewhat facetious hence the PWs are great, and I'd love to have them, but don't feel like they're the only option. So far my Cybersyncs have never failed to fire, once (apart from operator error - flash in standby mode, etc). I know a lot of pros use PWs, but I've seen a lot of pros use Cybersyncs and Skyports too. It's no big secret that I'm unhealthily obsessed with lighting, and PWs aren't even on my long-term shopping list, for what that's worth.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 03:51 |
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This is the main reason I use PWs 
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 04:13 |
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brad industry posted:This is the main reason I use PWs Hey Sekonic buddy (L-518 represent). Question, do you know if any of the older Sekonics need a minimum voltage to trigger on their PC sockets? I ask because I've had problems getting it to trigger my Cybersyncs (which I don't really need to do, since I can just pop it from the camera, which is usually over my shoulder at all times).
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 05:12 |
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This is gunna sound like a really dumb question, but, I am going to ask it anyway, as I have been thinking about my lighting options lately. Are you able to use, say, Nikkon Speedlights with other branded cameras, such as, for example a Sony a200? Bearing in mind that this is not necessarily for an on-camera flash... Edit: In other words, are flashes compatible with other camera brands? Man_alive fucked around with this message at Apr 24, 2009 around 13:35 |
| # ? Apr 24, 2009 13:10 |
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If you're going to remote trigger them, sure.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 13:36 |
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If you have skyports, you can attach like this: (now they are attached the same way to 580ex IIs) As for portable power, wait for the Elinchrom Ranger Quadra. It is THE portable pack. Not out for another month, but I'm first on the list at my local shop. 3 kg (6.6 lbs) battery/powerpack, and 250 gram (1/2 pound) head. 400 watts (real watts, not AB fake watts, so it's more powerful than the AB800) and with an adaptor can fit all Elinchrom stuff. It's more than ABs, but less than profoto. Plus you can control the power by radio with the elinchrom skyport system. And it has a built in modeling light that is daylight balanced that can run for 2 hours on one charge. And it's 2:1 Assymetrical. brad industry posted:Softbox with a grid is what you want, yeah. The grid just makes it more directional and shortens the spread, it's still soft. I don't know if those Chimera's have a second baffle on the inside but you can use that to soften it even more. Also larger light source = softer so XXS may not be the way to go. First thing I'm going to do when I get my Elinchrom flash is do a comparison with the 580ex II and the Quadra. I'm assuming with an inner baffle it will be reasonably similar, but with way more power in the Elinchrom. I'll post when I do. As for size, I realize larger softbox = softer, that's specifically why I want a small one, so that it's soft -ish, but not enough to obliterate masculine features like wrinkles, pores, and cheek bones. XXS might be too small for the look I'm going for, but I know I don't want a giant octobox, that's for sure. I hope to test them (softboxes) today or tomorrow in the store and I'll report back. poopinmymouth fucked around with this message at Apr 24, 2009 around 13:59 |
| # ? Apr 24, 2009 13:42 |
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evil_bunnY posted:If you're going to remote trigger them, sure. I had a feeling this might have been the case, but just wanted to make sure. Thank you
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 14:18 |
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Just make sure whatever you buy is actually compatible with your trigger set 
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 14:32 |
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 This is how I attach my triggers. Don't try balancing a flash on the hotshoe mount of the Cacti, you're just asking for trouble  brad industry posted:Well poo poo, I just wrote a long post explaining the difference between symmetrical/asymmetrical but my internet ate it. I think I get the basic concept now (and all their Brownline units I was looking at had a symmetrical/asymmetrical toggle switch), but it seems like I'd still be unavoidably making GBS threads out a lot more light than I'd want in a smallish home studio. 200 W/S is a more power than a speedlight's maximum, right?. Still, if I'm understanding correctly, it looks like it would be a really good option if I start doing location shooting and wind up needing more juice than the speedlights can deliver. Do these conclusions make sense, or am I missing anything? I think given the options/pricing/my needs, I'm going to stick with speedlights for the short-term. I just bought a used 580EX for about what I'd get a new Sigma 530 Super for (cashback on eBay is back at 14% right now), I think I'll likely get rid of the 430EX and at least one of the SB-24's to pay for another stand or two and probably a softbox. Probably more demand in the general gear thread, but would there be any interest in a buy/sell/trade thread for camera (and of course, lighting) equipment in SA-Mart?
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 15:14 |
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So I bought a 1200W portable power box. It's basically got a big 60Ah battery in it with some sort of a transformer to put out 120V power. The problem I'm having is that as soon as my D-Lites start to charge the capacitors something inside the light trips and the lights restart themselves. Has anyone run into this trouble? Very frustrating, I thought I had the perfect plan for lighting remote locations for cheap.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 17:34 |
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Some lights need a pure sine wave in order to run off a battery, your transformer (or whatever the converter thingie is called) might not be giving your lights what they need.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 17:40 |
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Luk3 posted:So I bought a 1200W portable power box. It's basically got a big 60Ah battery in it with some sort of a transformer to put out 120V power. The problem I'm having is that as soon as my D-Lites start to charge the capacitors something inside the light trips and the lights restart themselves. efb Is it for photography? Some portable boxes like that are not designed for high/quick draw of power, and can do weird things if pulled to hard/fast.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 17:43 |
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brad industry posted:Some lights need a pure sine wave in order to run off a battery, your transformer (or whatever the converter thingie is called) might not be giving your lights what they need. This is exactly what I was thinking. The power source puts out a modified sine wave. I just bought these D-Lites I can't justify selling them at a huge loss and buying the Ranger system. Looks like I'm gonna have to settle with locations close to a power source and extension cords.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 18:30 |
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Look on fred miranda, a while back there were some guys DIYing their own Vagabonds and they had recommendations for specific parts that do the pure sine wave that strobes need. It wasn't terribly expensive if I recall. You can always run off a generator too.
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| # ? Apr 24, 2009 18:46 |
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Do you guys know anything about seamless paper backgrounds? I am buying one of these to hang rolls of paper from so I can practice lighting. The problem is, the standard paper sizes seem to be 4.5 or or 9 feet wide, (or either much wider or much narrower). I really want something that's in between, like 6 or 7 feet wide. That would be perfect. I'm worried that with a 4.5' span it may not be wide enough to fully engulf the subject on both ends considering I might be several feet away when taking the picture. I'm thinking I might capture some of the wall on either side and I want to avoid that. The problem is that I don't really have the room for the 9' role. I do, but it would be really tight and there's a closet on the right that has to open outward. Do any of you know if I can buy an in-between size, or do I just have to suck it up and stick to the standards?
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| # ? Apr 25, 2009 03:09 |
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There is no in between, there's either full or half rolls. Buy a 9', take a saw, and cut off a few feet at one end.
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| # ? Apr 25, 2009 03:11 |
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Mannequin posted:Do you guys know anything about seamless paper backgrounds? I am buying one of these to hang rolls of paper from so I can practice lighting. The problem is, the standard paper sizes seem to be 4.5 or or 9 feet wide, (or either much wider or much narrower). I really want something that's in between, like 6 or 7 feet wide. That would be perfect. I'm worried that with a 4.5' span it may not be wide enough to fully engulf the subject on both ends considering I might be several feet away when taking the picture. I'm thinking I might capture some of the wall on either side and I want to avoid that. The problem is that I don't really have the room for the 9' role. I do, but it would be really tight and there's a closet on the right that has to open outward. If there is any way you can find room for the 9' roll, the extra width is well worth it.
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| # ? Apr 26, 2009 01:12 |
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ConfusedUs posted:If there is any way you can find room for the 9' roll, the extra width is well worth it. I use 9', I can hardly imagine shooting with less. A lot more breathing room for standard portraits.
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| # ? Apr 26, 2009 02:04 |
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Nihiliste posted:I use 9', I can hardly imagine shooting with less. A lot more breathing room for standard portraits.
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| # ? Apr 26, 2009 14:55 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 02:26 |
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Okay, good to know. Thanks for the tips guys. My concern was that because there is a closet on the right that opens up, the legs of the support stand might get in the way and it would be a shame to lose a closet because of that. We'll see how it works out.Pompous Rhombus posted:
Woops, somehow I missed this. Thanks for posting this, it's a great visual.
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| # ? Apr 26, 2009 15:03 |
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