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I've never really been happy with my RAW noise reduction talent using Lightroom. I understand why my RAW pictures are more noisy than the corresponding JPEGs, but no matter what I do I can't seem to get the noise reduced enough to match the JPEGs. Any hints?
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Nov 29, 2011 20:26
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| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 02:45 |
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No, I mean that when I import a RAW file, process it and compare the results to the sooc JPEG file, the JPEG always looks cleaner, with less noise. I either overdo or underdo (is that a word?) the NR in Lightroom.
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Nov 29, 2011 20:57
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Cross_ posted:That shouldn't be the case. Since version 3 the noise reduction in LR has gotten really, really good.
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Nov 30, 2011 14:15
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bassguitarhero posted:A friend of mine got married a few months ago, I was the DJ at the wedding but wound up bringing my camera anyways cos hey why not. There was an issue with the photographer's photos, and eventually I wound up showing some of the pix I took at the ceremony and they really liked them. I'm givin them a bunch of mine to see if that rounds out their set in a way that makes them really happy, but I know nothing about post, especially on wedding photos, so maybe I could get some feedback on what I've managed to put together. Most of the pictures seems too dark. I would brighten them up (exposure and/or fill light), and have a go with the color balance to warm them up a bit. Then adjust contrast from there. Adding a vignette also does wonders for certain pictures. What software do you have available?
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Feb 23, 2012 12:40
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While I agree with xzzy, I remember a good tutorial explaining the basics - but of course I can't find it now. The good thing about it was that it explained the basics, and my advice is to get the very basics down first. Work on understanding white balance and color temperature, what contrast is, what fill light does etc. Go to the develop module in LR, and start googling each slider until you understand why it has the effect it has. Then start googling the next one. This will help you observe a picture and explain how it can be improved, which is the direction you need to be moving in.
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Mar 2, 2012 21:13
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How does Lightroom 4 perform on slower computers? (2010 Core2 Duo iMac) I've read conflicting reports, so can anyone comment after a few days' use?
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Mar 13, 2012 19:19
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Lightroom 4 is acting weird here. I can't crop to certain dimensions, because it will always interpret the aspect as vertical (i.e. 10x3 is vertical, as is 3x10). What's worse is that it randomly imports JPEGs rather than RAW files. I shoot exclusively RAW, but every other picture imported will be a JPEG. WTF?
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Mar 20, 2012 21:30
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Falco posted:How is LR4 working out for everyone? It seemed when it was first released people were having a few issues with it. I'm thinking about picking it up, but wanted to see if I should wait for the first update before switching from LR3.
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Mar 30, 2012 14:58
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mr. mephistopheles posted:Is he trying to represent this as a "before and after" of the same photo with post-processing? I thought it looked a bit off angle-wise so I overlayed it in PS and nothing aligns exactly. So either he applied some sort of distortion to the entire image (possible) or it's two different images. I would bet on the latter. He "created" the bloom effect by waiting for the sun to be in position to shine directly through the roof, and he adjusted his tripod very slightly to maximize the bloom effect. Lens distortion correction?
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Sep 11, 2012 15:32
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Just got finished cleaning up this picture of Taj Mahal. After some time spent in Lightroom, furiously swearing at the people in the picture, I purchased Photoshop and joined Lynda.com. Pretty happy with this, as it's my first time cleaning. I used the clone stamp tool and learnt a few things - focus on the straight lines, and ensure that they continue being straight. A skewed line looks awful and is quickly spotted by anyone. Before:  After:  The work area:   There's still some work to be done, but this has been bugging me since I got home from India in July.
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Sep 23, 2012 21:35
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aliencowboy posted:Fix your goddamn verticals because that's a good shot waiting to be a great shot. Thanks. What's the best approach for fixing that? Transform in LR4 as Saint Fu suggested, vertical perspective in PS Lens correction or something else? I want this printed in 3x2 feet, so I'm sensible to distortions and warping. Also, Saint Fu, I think you have a problem with your color spaces. But thanks for fixing it up 
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Sep 24, 2012 20:27
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Dalax posted:so.. er.. where would 'someone' go about finding some tutorials for this here lightroom? 'My friend' has just downloaded the trial, but wants to know if there is a
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Oct 12, 2012 10:51
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Color management is hard  I finally bit the bullet and got the X-Rite i1Display Pro, and went to work calibrating my 27" iMac and my 15" MacBook Pro, expecting images to look the same on both displays after calibration. They don't. Even though I selected the same settings (120cd, D65 white point), the MBP is noticeably warmer and brighter. Of course, I can adjust the brightness down on the MBP, but how do I know which brigthness setting is correct? The software should have adjusted it for me. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? Edit - manually adjusted the brightness on both displays to 120cd. A bit better, but the MBP is still much warmer than the iMac. Mathturbator fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Nov 1, 2012 |
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Nov 1, 2012 20:16
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Yeah but... They should be able to display the same grey in the OSX interface, right? I'm not even comparing pictures yet, just the white and grey of my browser. Edit: There's definitely a problem with the MBP calibration. Everytime I start the calibration, I get a different brightness reading (automatic brightness adjustment is off, I didn't touch anything) Even more edit: I ran the uniformity test on the MBP, and it shows white points ranging from 6151K to 6648K, and luminance levels ranging from 101cd to 123 cd. Is that normal? Mathturbator fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Nov 2, 2012 |
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Nov 2, 2012 20:04
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This calibration thing is really driving me nuts. The iMac is now calibrated to a whitepoint of 6225K, while the MBP is at 6180K. They're not even in the same ballpark. I'm beginning to think the calibration unit (X-rite i1 Display Pro) is broken, because if the displays really were at the whitepoints it says, I shouldn't see such a huge difference. I've already contacted the X-Rite support, but they haven't returned my email. Help?
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Nov 7, 2012 17:34
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My Lightroom photos are located on an external drive, sorted into years + 12 subfolders for each year. That's a lot of folders, and a remnant from before I discovered Lightroom. But every once in a while, that drive will be unplugged while I start up Lightroom, causing it to forget the location of every folder. So when that happens I have a fun hour ahead of me pointing it to the right folder  How can I make Lightroom not forget the files, so when I plug in the drive again and everything is as it was before, it will keep the file locations?
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Dec 22, 2012 19:52
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evil_bunnY posted:Yeah do that. Even if you don't, you should just point Lightroom at the year folders and it should find the months underneath. Yeah, I should probably do that. And it wouldn't be such a hassle of I could just point it to the top-level folder or year folder - or even the monthly folder. But it wants me to point to a specific file, in every god drat folder
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Dec 23, 2012 10:07
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I've got a Post Processing question for you. Take a look at this behind-the-scenes video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjQRKw1wx1E. It's about 3 minutes long, and the setup is nothing out of the ordinary as far as I can tell. In the final part of the video, the finalized images appear and I wondered how they achieve that look on the skin? They take it from this:  To this:  Of course, they don't show *that* part, so I'm left to ask the internet Part of my troubles are that I don't know how to describe what I'm seeing. I see smooth highlights, bronze skin tones and that's basically what I'm able to describe.
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Dec 30, 2013 09:07
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Cool, thanks. What is "skin smoothing"? What tools do you use for that process - blurring? Edit: Uhh, I googled it, and of course there's tons of way to do it. How do you do it?
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Dec 30, 2013 10:04
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Can blend modes be used to create HDR images?
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Jan 19, 2014 20:32
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iSheep posted:
I don't like it, but it could be done that way.
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Jan 25, 2014 10:13
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I thought I'd show you guys how awesome blend modes in PS are. Not everyone knows them, but they are really useful for basic photo editing. So I took this photo, and it's kinda grey and boring without any colors:  This is almost straight from camera (RAW), only applied my default lens correction and camera default presets in LightRoom, plus added some exposure. It's obviously still underexposed, even though I already overexposed one full stop when shooting. Canon light meters has a tendency to underexpose, but whatever. From LR I took it into Photoshop, and I wanted to brighten it up a bit first. So I added a new levels adjustment layer, but I did not touch the layer controls at all, simply changed the layer blend mode to Overlay. And boom:  Now the snow and ice instantly looks like snow and ice. But the blue colors on the ship are still very washed out, so I added another levels layer and again did not touch the controls, but changed the blend mode to color burn:  The effect is still a bit too much, so I turned down opacity a notch on both layers and pulled the blue back a bit with a curves layer. Back in LR I added a slight vignette and we're done:  You could have done the same thing with other adjustment layers, but this is just too easy not to! Experiment around, it's completely nondestructive and unlike curves it's difficult to gently caress up - just change the blend mode back to what you wanted, adjust the opacity and there you go.
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Jan 29, 2014 12:12
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I've been using the creative clown for some time now, and it's a gateway drug. I went from using Lightroom and Photoshop to also using Illustrator, InDesign, Premiere Pro and After Effects. It's great, I'm more creative than ever before!
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Feb 17, 2014 10:02
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I find that if I overexpose my images with no clipping and bring the exposure back down, I lose color saturation. For example, take an image of a bright blue sky. You expose to the left and get this washed out look, and when you bring it back down in post the colors are not as saturated as they would have been if you just exposed properly in the first place. Maybe I'm clipping channels or something? Idk, I can think of lots of explanations for this but none of them are convincing. And then there's the very real risk that I'm a big dumb baby with no clue.
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Feb 24, 2014 14:26
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What's good software for getting my feet wet with 3D? I've got the creative clown subscription, but Illustrator's not very good with 3D and that leaves photoshop. Is Blender any good?
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Feb 26, 2014 13:19
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Pompous Rhombus posted:What do you mean, like 3D still photography?
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Feb 26, 2014 19:44
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| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 02:45 |
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404notfound posted:Are there any good guides to effective use of the dodge and burn tools to strengthen an image? Preferably something that could apply to Lightroom (e.g., no reliance on layers). So if I may suggest, you are not looking for a guide, but inspiration for when and how to use it. I think a key learning point is that using D&B very selectively to brighten or darken small areas can have a huge impact on how sharp your pictures look. Take a look at this: http://fstoppers.com/the-secret-to-crafting-stunningly-sharp-images-and-preserving-it-across-medias
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Mar 27, 2014 11:00
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