|
Extant Artiodactyl posted:never saw it in action but enphase does have a way to do "sunlight backup" in iq8 systems without batteries to power circuits through a relay that kicks on and off with available power. i think it was limited to 1/10th or 1/6th of the system's continuous current. something like that. Yea, my installer explained the same thing to me and suggested just doing the battery, which seems like the better idea. The battery itself is like $3k retail, but all the supporting setup is like $10k (which you need for sunlight backup even without the battery)
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 01:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 18:37 |
|
|
Extant Artiodactyl posted:never saw it in action but enphase does have a way to do "sunlight backup" in iq8 systems without batteries to power circuits through a relay that kicks on and off with available power. i think it was limited to 1/10th or 1/6th of the system's continuous current. something like that. Yeah, so still basically useless for my desired use case, which is "gently caress PG&E Imma be my own grid". Whatever, I had ruled out Enphase anyway and committed to dealing with having an extra-spicy high voltage DC run to big inverters.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 01:50
|
|
|
Extant Artiodactyl posted:too far along in the process to not put some blame on the electricians. Welp I take back a good portion of my defense of the electricians. H110Hawk posted:found out my spectrum modem is fried out And my oven and my whole home humidifier and the garage door motor is blinking an error state. They missed a neutral hookup. They owned up to it immediately and did a site walk to touch all the active electronics, and already have people scheduled to fix the various things and "I owe you an oven, you guys let me know what matches your current one and we'll take it off the invoice and install it for you." Everyone is insanely glad that we weren't moved in yet, beyond the base safety issue or "whoops don't touch anything metal" that could have easily eaten 10k more electronics. I made a joke with him about not touching the water heater, it's hot. He laughed. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 14:54
|
|
|
Probably happy that you're not touching/claiming against his insurance coverage. He'd be paying for that for years afterwards if you did.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 18:17
|
|
|
Yeah I don't have a reason to, if someone had been injured I wouldn't be talking about it here but with an attorney. Handing them my copy of their proof of insurance I have on file.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 18:30
|
|
|
that's a big gently caress-up. it probably cascaded from the equipment mistake leading to redoing all the connections of the system controller. it's easy to sit here and go "i never did that" but any time i touch service equipment and especially with these systems i am putting the meter on everything, taking pictures, physically touching each wire after the torquing to see if there's something to miss on the insulation or the way the lugs lined up ... two things i remember slipping through these checks: 1) a lug on the main breaker was crossthreaded from the first day it was installed, in 1989. only found out when it came time to land its new feeders. somehow lucked out on a replacement breaker, power only stayed off for a couple more hours 2) an exhaust fan circuit was fed from two breakers in the original main panel and the coin flip worked out in the hack's favor, the breakers were on the same phase causing no perceivable issues. when i moved the circuits to a protected loads panel, the coin flip did not work out in my favor, the breakers were on different phases so all the switches got 240v. 4 devices replaced, only a smart timer died, the fan was fine
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 18:41
|
|
|
Extant Artiodactyl posted:that's a big gently caress-up. it probably cascaded from the equipment mistake leading to redoing all the connections of the system controller. it's easy to sit here and go "i never did that" but any time i touch service equipment and especially with these systems i am putting the meter on everything, taking pictures, physically touching each wire after the torquing to see if there's something to miss on the insulation or the way the lugs lined up ... My biggest gently caress up so far was the time I didn't remember to pull the jumper tab off of a dual SPST switch fed from two breakers. Two 20A breakers. On separate phases, as luck would have it. ... In the panel run off of an absolute UNIT of a 208V 3 phase transformer in a big building downtown. Maybe a total of 6-8 feet of 12awg between the breakers and my switch, which was still hanging out of the box as I wanted to make sure I'd put the right lights on the right switches before buttoning it all up. The arc was, shall we say, impressive. Concussive, even. It turned that little tab into a large bright cloud of brass vapor in half a cycle flat and tripped both breakers. I was lucky and all I had to replace was the switches, not because they broke but because they were supposed to be white, not white-black-gold camo pattern.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 20:03
|
|
|
Been having a bunch of equipment installed at work. Reinstalled, actually. We had some equipment that we were using, then took it out, and now are putting it back. The people who demo'd it out, took out the wire from the disconnect to the unit. No worries. Well, some worries. Because they only pulled out the neutrals and grounds, and left all the phases. SO the electricians come to wire it up, and think to themselves "hey, there's no ground here, better run one." So they run one from the disconnect. The equipment is cord-and-plug connected, and the cord is 5w (3ph + neutral + gnd). Anyway, we get the thing hooked up and turn it on and the panel lights are going crazy. The neutral is ONLY for some indicator lights on the panel, which are now floating between 208 and 0V depending on ?????. We shut it off, figure out that that tiny tiny tiny lug is for neutral, and everything's good. Just very confusing. It's a 200A 3phase 5w cord with big 1/4" lugs for the phases and ground yet a #6 lug for the neutral. Engineers figured it's only 200mA max on the lights, no need for a full-size lug for all of that. Ok guys, then how are we supposed to land the #0 wire that comes in the premade cord? Split bolts, apparently. Other fun thing was the attached picture. A new piece of equipment was shipped with the motor incoming power leads all landed on the shorting bar instead of on, like, the incoming phase lugs. This made the motor starter unhappy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 00:03
|
|
|
Extant Artiodactyl posted:that's a big gently caress-up. it probably cascaded from the equipment mistake leading to redoing all the connections of the system controller. 100% that's when it happened. Thankfully they're just making it right (so far) without any prodding on my part. It's all words at this point, but if they can't source the board on my KitchenAid KEBK276SSS 27" double oven with bread proofing, hidden element, and other interesting features it's going to be what's at a glance looking like a $4000-4400 retail writeoff. Plus the humdifier control board. Plus the garage door opener which is currently TBD. If they balk I'll remind them how lucky they got to not have my house of Not to mention if anything dies in the coming 12 months I'm giving them a call. (Dishwasher, microwave, fridge, pool pump.) Extant Artiodactyl posted:it's easy to sit here and go "i never did that" but any time i touch service equipment And this is why they're not getting a free pass, this is some sloppy work. Someone should have been double checking the big wires. Or at least come back after lunch and go "hot, hot, neutral" to every segment with a jiggle before firing it up. Unlike the gen2 vs gen3 thing which like, something something cast the first stone. That being said... 
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Mar 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 01:53
|
|
|
Double oven with bread proofing? drat.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 05:10
|
|
|
This never gets old. It was cold out so I flipped on the heater for "free" this morning for the 2hrs I'm going to be here. Fire inspection and presuming that passes city final this week. City has already verbally approved it but they changed some SOP stuff in the past month to re-order some things so their final is after FD signature, which makes sense.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2024 18:00
|
|
|
that's putting the self-consumption mode to good use! only ever dealt with flat rate markets on battery systems here and while it was definitely not my job to properly communicate how ineffective discharging and charging the battery is when it's xx cents buying or selling at any time, i'd still have to answer calls asking why the battery "isn't doing anything". some sales guys absolutely did not understand this and just gave the customer the expectations of time of use markets so in turn they did not listen to anything i said and would just empty the battery at night and fill it during the day as if it was doing anything to their bill that letting the battery sit charged wouldn't. as an incentive here, you participate in utility programs where they will discharge the battery to the grid during predicted high demand times and cut you a check (or credits? i mainly saw the checks) at the end of the season (between and 1 and 2 thousand with maximum participation)i get the idea but i'd have to see more research about how effective this is at actually reducing enough strain on the grid to justify the checks as anything other than manufacturer and installer subsidies
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2024 21:58
|
|
|
Yeah I don't know yet what I am going to be doing in average usage so I will need to tweak it potentially. I do not have grid sale mode enabled yet but around here it should in theory help prevent rolling blackouts with enough participation. I downloaded the export pricing spreadsheet but can't make heads nor tails of it. Plus I can't tell if they actually cut me checks with nem3 because of all the bullshit. But I do know for a few hours a day in August / September I see like $2/kwh export rates. Ironically when it's most likely above the operating temperature of the batteries... Right now I am consuming like 1-2kwh/day from the grid and exporting a ton. Once we move in that export number might flip. My daily generation on a cool sunny day is 70kwh. How much have you seen that reduced in hot summer months?
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2024 23:46
|
|
|
Coincidentally enough I just enrolled in our utility's (PG&E) load reduction program, which yeah, pays out at $2/kwh when they pull from our batteries, which beats the $0.66 peak rate that grid power costs me during the same 4-9PM timeframe. Seems like a no brainer - only downside is it means that my batteries will hit their reserve level earlier in the evening than they otherwise would, which does provide a larger window where maybe I couldn't coast through an evening grid outage until the sun comes up in the morning. Our batteries already hit the reserve level every night we decide to charge a car, but that is usually around 1-2 in the morning, and the house only draws about 3-400W if everyone is asleep and we can easily coast on 30% battery till solar production starts up again. If we drained to 30% by 9PM, making it till sun-up the next day might be a little more challenging, but probably generally workable. I dunno, we'll see how it goes!
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2024 21:40
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:
in this area, summer always beats winter for production. enphase had specific training for installers in the cali market but i never took it. all our battery installs were in garages, outbuildings and basements except for exactly 1 where we had the customer sign a waiver. it just wouldn't charge below freezing and it wouldn't do much of anything below 0. it never got hot enough here for long enough to have any overtemp service calls
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2024 13:37
|
|
|
Extant Artiodactyl posted:in this area, summer always beats winter for production. enphase had specific training for installers in the cali market but i never took it. I assume summer will be higher most days, but we get a few weeks of truly awful temps here. Just curious where we're going to wind up. Thankfully it's north facing and so should be out of direct sunlight by the worst hours. FD came by today and blessed the system. He said it was exactly how he likes to see them. I spoke with him briefly as he was saying this is how he would setup his system, all outside, away from everything. I told him how "I want it outside so I have a chance of escape before it burns the house down." "Exactly. Escape time is much higher outside." He said they generally only see them burn due to damage, they only see damage in garages/driveways, and 3ft of clearance does nothing against a modern SUV/Truck. Overall made me feel really good about my choices and insistence on design and location. Apparently there are some sketchy contractors who try to get all the shutoffs inside... right next to the batteries. Apparently he just came from a re-inspection where the job site looked identical to the initial inspection. I would not want the level of scrutiny that amount of disregard for a punch list would result in. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2024 20:48
|
|
|
Me: Oh hey! Adjustable outlet boxes at Lowes that are rated for both new work and old work! I'm guess I can just take the front wing off I can't access the stud from the front? I can still get it from the side of the stuff in the crawl space! Adjustable box manufacturer: By "old work" we mean "retrofit" where you have brought the wall back down to the studs. How the gently caress is that not just new work?
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2024 05:46
|
|
|
I've seen old work boxes that can screw into studs via screws on the inside of the box. I want to say they were from Arlington? They have my favorite selection of boxes, especially low voltage ones. Edit: yep https://www.aifittings.com/catalog/specialty-boxes/one-box-non-metallic-outlet-boxes/ Edit2: If you don't mind me asking, why do you need adjustable boxes? Are your walls really thick and boxes really deep? If so, just use longer screws. Outlet/switch box screws are #6-32. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Mar 31, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2024 18:55
|
|
|
I absolutely don't need it in its normal use for stuff like kitchens where you don't know if you're tiling up the wall or whatever. I really liked them when I was doing some stuff in my garage and had a mishmash of drywall thicknesses going on for some time. I also found it a lot easier to work on the wiring for stuff if I could pull the box out a little. That's when I fell in love with them. The honeymoon ended yesterday when I found out you can't put them on a stud unless I have full access to the front of the stud. If it weren't for that, I'd still want to use one since the wall has two layers of texture on it so a new, normal box wouldl be a little recessed. We might then sand down the outer layer of that texture to prep for wallpaper. Yeah, I can get some different lengths of screws for that amount of give, but that's another box of screws to disappear in the the cubic yard of other screws already around here afterwards.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 06:27
|
|
|
So, I know exceedingly little about home wiring. I have a physics degree, so I understand things in a useless, vague way, but I know very little about the specifics of home electrical despite formerly owning a house for 3 years. I just moved into a rental unit in a pre-1900s building, and while trying to communicate issues with my landlord, I realized how shoddy my knowledge here is. Is there a book or resource not "DIY Wire your own home!" and more "Here's Enough to be a Better Tenant and Client to Electricians"?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 03:38
|
|
|
captkirk posted:So, I know exceedingly little about home wiring. I have a physics degree, so I understand things in a useless, vague way, but I know very little about the specifics of home electrical despite formerly owning a house for 3 years. Stop trying to solution things you don't understand and explain what problem you have and the outcome you would like.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 03:43
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Stop trying to solution things you don't understand and explain what problem you have and the outcome you would like. I don't want to DIY the stuff. I want to be able to understand things well enough to be able to communicate better.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 03:48
|
|
|
captkirk posted:I don't want to DIY the stuff. I want to be able to understand things well enough to be able to communicate better. In the US we follow the NEC, National Electrical Code. In Chicago we follow the CEC, Chicago Electrical Code, which is additions and subtractions to the NEC. Check with your towns ordinance that will list addendums to whichever year's edition of the NEC they follow. There are free versions of the NEC online you can use to help communicate since this is what electricians should be following and are a minimum standard.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 04:20
|
|
|
captkirk posted:I don't want to DIY the stuff. I want to be able to understand things well enough to be able to communicate better. There's two levels of communication in common use for residential households. First you have consumers, who communicate in terms of the devices they want to work. "This switch turns this light off and on", "the dishwasher makes a grinding noise", basic poo poo like that which requires zero expertise. The second level is actually having understanding of how your house is wired, and being able to communicate that to experts (i.e. the electricians you'd hire to do the work) in their language. If you want to learn that, the resource I'd recommend is the Black & Decker Complete Guide to Wiring book. It covers all remotely common home wiring setups, as well as laying out how you'd go about doing basic jobs. However, I will stress that those experts are used to communicating with homeowners that don't know anything about how their house works. If you come to them with more technically accurate language, they may well not believe you, and they'd certainly better not trust you (e.g. when you say that an outlet isn't receiving current). If you just want to be a good client, you should just try to lay out what your experience is, how that experience deviates from what you expect, and what you've tried to remediate the situation. For example: "I flipped this switch, and the light didn't come on. Normally I expect the light to come on when I flip the switch. I tried a different bulb, and that didn't work either. None of the breakers in my panel are off, and nothing else in the house appears to be broken."
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 12:34
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:However, I will stress that those experts are used to communicating with homeowners that don't know anything about how their house works. If you come to them with more technically accurate language, they may well not believe you, and they'd certainly better not trust you (e.g. when you say that an outlet isn't receiving current). In addition - If you are confidently wrong you can wind up causing frustration for everyone. The second part of this is the goldmine though - knowing enough to be able to do the full consumer-side troubleshooting workflow. That being said, the book suggested is a great resource, which includes some of the worthless physics -> real world conversions. The other element of it is mechanical wear and recognizing sounds and smells. Outlet has scorching on it? Doesn't retain normal plugs? Makes Snap Crackle and Pop noises despite the outlet not eating a bowl of Kellogg's Rice Crispies breakfast cereal? Smells acrid? That's great information.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 14:33
|
|
|
I’ve also found that reading this thread over the years has been immensely helpful for learning, especially for what not to do. The only thing I’ll ever deal with are basic residential circuits but even so I like learning beyond that scope.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 15:06
|
|
|
Woops, this ain't the electronics thread...
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Apr 6, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 20:59
|
|
|
I have three questions. Just bought a new house, and plan to put in two new 20 amp circuits in the garage, half of which will become my new wood shop -- each will have outlets in parallel mounted above each other at 6' intervals (one circuit for the dust collector, which is by itself 15 amps; and one circuit for tool usage, because I plan on mounting shop lamps that'll run on the original garage circuit and I'm afraid of overloading that, especially if my wife were to happen to open the garage door while a saw is running). The garage has a sub panel with more than enough space (both physical and amperage -- the house has 200 amp service as well). I'm confident in my ability to wire the outlets in parallel, to mount conduit, fish the wire, etc. I'm all good on the basics. My first question is: the panel is flush with the wall. I'll have to cut through the drywall to connect to the breaker box, of course. What type of connection do I use between the breaker box knockout and the surface of the wall to run the wire to the conduit? A tight elbow that buries an opening in the wall? Second question: is PVC conduit my best option? Each run will be at chest height (best place for the outlets), be run between surface-mounted single-gang outlet boxes, be about 40' in total, has to run to the ceiling and back down to chest height at one point to 'dodge' a storage nook in the garage, and will be in a garage in the Seattle area (I.e., moist, never too cold and rarely too hot, and inside an attached garage with living space above and to one side for some heat/cooling transfer -- I know PVC can expand and contract in extreme weather). Third, assuming I do use PVC conduit, it looks as though (NEC table C) I can run two 12/3 wires in a 1/2" piece of conduit. True? If so, it could save me some money/effort on conduit and just use Ts before/after the outlets.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2024 18:36
|
|
|
Admiralty Flag posted:I have three questions. 1. You've got some options. If the rest of the in-wall wiring is non-metallic cable, you may be able to fish cables a short distance between the panel and a hole in the wall over which a surface-mount jbox could be installed. If you open up enough sheetrock you could run NM cables or flexible conduit to a (new) flush-mount jbox then stack a box extension on it to bring it out to surface mount level. There's prob plenty of options I'm not thinking about. 2. I'd do it in emt myself, but nothing wrong with PVC here. May find it easier to work with. 3. Save yourself some pain and run individual stranded copper wires instead of 12/3 cable if that's what you mean. Not sure what you mean by T's; I'd pipe from (outlet) box to box so that you could pull wires. edit: also, 1/2" PVC will be big enough for what you're doing (assuming the outlets are 120V) as you could run two hots, two neutrals, and one ground wire before hitting your fill limit of 6 or 8 #12's. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Apr 6, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2024 19:00
|
|
|
I'd run it in 1/2 EMT as well. I'm guessing you meant LBs with 3 hubs but not sure. You normally use what's called a box offset bend for getting to the breaker panel. I would definitely use individual THHN conductors as well, if you get an accurate estimate of how much you need and order online you can often get it a lot cheaper than home depot. Remember you will need GFCI if it is concrete floor in there and possibly AFCI as well, I'm not sure what WA amendments or NEC require for attached vs detached garage wiring, I know last year when I did my in-laws detached woodshop it was GFCI only. If you did mean LBs you definitely do not want to use NM in conduit, you are going to hate life trying to get that shoehorned in there without breaking bend radius rules. Depending on your inspector they might consider anything below about 8ft AFFL in a garage subject to mechanical damage which will mean you need sch80 if you use PVC. If you want, I can probably swing by with my code book at least two different days next week just to speed the question/answer loop up a lot till you have a better idea what you're in for, I'm probably going to be over your way on Wednesday and/or Thursday for a few side jobs in the area. I'm not a licensed electrician, but I play one on the Internet.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2024 20:11
|
|
|
I've got a wiring conundrum. My stove (a 1950s model) recently died and I got a modern replacement, a Whirlpool WFE535S0LS. I wired up the pigtail and plugged it in, and while the heating elements worked, the digital oven controls did not. I took a multimeter to the contracts and got 240v L1 to L2, 240v L1 to N, and 1.6v N to L2. No biggy, my outlet is ancient and is probably mis-wired. I swap the L2 and N, and... I still get 240v L1 to L2 and L1 to N, however the digitial control on the oven pops on for about ten seconds before throwing up an error code (that according to Whirlpool means there is too much voltage on the line). I unplugged it, tested the actual outlet (240v L1 to L2, 120v L1/2 to N), the circuit breaker (40A (120 to N on both contacts, 240 between them), even replaced the pigtail with a new one. I'm at a loss. The store I bought it from, even tested it there when I went to return it thinking it defective, but it worked fine when plugged into a 240v line there. I'm not a rookie when it comes to electricity, but my formal education on the matter hasn't really been used in over a decade (and focused more on microelectronics anyway). What could the issue be?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2024 20:50
|
|
|
Kasan posted:I've got a wiring conundrum. My stove (a 1950s model) recently died and I got a modern replacement, a Whirlpool WFE535S0LS. I wired up the pigtail and plugged it in, and while the heating elements worked, the digital oven controls did not. I took a multimeter to the contracts and got 240v L1 to L2, 240v L1 to N, and 1.6v N to L2. No biggy, my outlet is ancient and is probably mis-wired. I swap the L2 and N, and... I still get 240v L1 to L2 and L1 to N, however the digitial control on the oven pops on for about ten seconds before throwing up an error code (that according to Whirlpool means there is too much voltage on the line). I unplugged it, tested the actual outlet (240v L1 to L2, 120v L1/2 to N), the circuit breaker (40A (120 to N on both contacts, 240 between them), even replaced the pigtail with a new one. Take a pic of the cord hookup on the stove. Did you take it back to the store with the cord on?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2024 21:32
|
|
|
Blackbeer posted:Take a pic of the cord hookup on the stove. Did you take it back to the store with the cord on? https://imgur.com/a/gnIoly0 I did with the second pigtail (since I also bought it from the same place). I just double checked that when plugged in (but not connected), I still get 240/120 through the pigtail. L1 - N - L2. Plug is facing down in this orientation, no kinks or bends in the cord. (although the orientation shouldn't matter as long as the two hots on the outside terminals unless I'm badly remembering how AC works vs DC) Edit: Nuts are off because I haven't keep it hooked up while I try and figure out what is wrong.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2024 22:03
|
|
|
Dang, figured it was a long shot that the cord was wired in wrong, but would have been the easiest to fix. I'm stumped too, the only thing I can think to check would be the neutral for this circuit in the panel. I've had services that lost the neutral in the underground service feeder, but showed 120V hot to neutral until a load was on. They were getting the seemingly normal voltage from the bonded ground/ground rod though, not sure what could be giving your initial voltage readings here. Just to reiterate, proper voltage at panel and outlet. Works as wired at other location. Bad voltage only when plugged in. Leads me to go after the wiring between panel and outlet; after checking this circuit neutral connection in the panel, I'd unplug the cord, shut off the breaker, and check continuity between the hots and neutral at the panel to see if you are getting a reading that there's a short. edit: actually, check continuity (ohms/resistance) at the outlet too (with power off of course). Shouldn't have anything between anything. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Apr 7, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2024 00:34
|
|
|
You should only be getting 120V line to neutral. Check the wiring at the panel. Something ain't right.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2024 01:07
|
|
|
There are two outlets in the way of built-in cabinets we want to install. I have already removed the outlets and their boxes, and rerouted the wires into a junction box on the other side of the wall in the attic. I intend to run them to two new outlets to be placed just a little bit higher to be clear of the built-ins. We didn't want to keep the boxes empty and just put in a cover because: 1. I really needed the space where the outlet boxes were because that's where the current wires reach. 2. Adding a cover would push the built-ins out away from the wall. My wife for whatever reason doesn't really want to pop a little patch of drywall over the old box holes. I guess since cabinets are covering them, whatever. She thought you can just plug it up with some spray foam. I did get the Great Stuff and realized that's a no-no. I need the orange stuff that's flame retardant (Great stuff apparently lights up at 240F!). Would just covering up the holes with that actually be okay?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2024 06:54
|
|
|
Rocko Bonaparte posted:There are two outlets in the way of built-in cabinets we want to install. I have already removed the outlets and their boxes, and rerouted the wires into a junction box on the other side of the wall in the attic. I intend to run them to two new outlets to be placed just a little bit higher to be clear of the built-ins. We didn't want to keep the boxes empty and just put in a cover because: Just patch the holes with drywall/spackle when she's not home. I know this doesn't answer the question, but no reason to be lazy about it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2024 12:58
|
|
|
You absolutely should not use expanding foam for that, it's totally the wrong thing for the task. If the wall is not textured this is like a half hour fix to do right especially with access to the back of the wall from the attic. Ideally you would use setting mud instead of finish or all purpose mud, but all purpose will work. Cut patches a quarter inch smaller than the holes after removing all loose and peeling material, use a little wood backer board to hold the patches in from the back, pack the seams with mud then tape over the seams ideally with paper tape but something this small you can use mesh too. Let that dry then skim it all, sand, prime, paint. If there is texture, it can be a pain the the rear end to blend and match the patch to the rest. I hate textured walls and ceilings for several reasons but this is one of the bigger reasons.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2024 13:38
|
|
|
Put a back on the cabinet and forget that hole was ever there
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2024 14:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 18:37 |
|
|
Blackbeer posted:Dang, figured it was a long shot that the cord was wired in wrong, but would have been the easiest to fix. kid sinister posted:You should only be getting 120V line to neutral. Check the wiring at the panel. Something ain't right. At the panel that's exactly what I get. At the outlet that's exactly what I get. At the pigtail, that's exactly what I get. At the machine, I get values that electrically should be impossible with the other three conditions being true.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2024 14:52
|
|