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I hope this is a good place to ask this. . . I want to run a new coaxial cable through a wall, and I need to get past the horizontal brace (the "noggin"?) that is between each stud. As far as I can tell, my two choices are either cut a hole in the drywall near each brace and drill a hole (which I then have to patch  ), or use a very long and flexible attachment to drill from the work box hole.My preference is to buy a long attachment, as patching lots of small holes in the drywall is not something I look forward to. However, I have never used a flexible attachment of that length, and I wonder how I am supposed to know exactly where I am drilling? What is the trick?
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Mar 25, 2010 22:56
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Associate Christ
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The antenna is basically in the attic above the room with the tv. Baseboards don't really come into it, as far as I reckon. I can't get the cable under the house to come up through the floor very easily, either. And since this is for an antenna, the shorter the cable the better. I have the same feelings about those long drill extensions! How in the world do you know where you are drilling? Maybe I really do have to start poking and covering up holes :/. The wife won't like that unless it is awful pretty! I suppose I could try a hand-drill? At least that way I won't kill myself with the extension. There has to be some trick to directing it towards the spot you want.
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Mar 26, 2010 01:03
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Can I ask a question about my home thermostat here? It is an old fashioned type with a separate setting for heat temp and cooling temp. There is a switch to turn FAN from ON to AUTO, and another switch to turn ON and OFF auxiliary heat (whatever that is). Heat has been working fine, but now that we are using A/C, I have a distinct feeling that the A/C isn't turning on. The only way I can make it blow anything resembling cool air is to set the FAN to ON. That blows air that is cooler than ambient, but it certainly isn't A/C cold. Setting the cool air temp anywhere doesn't seem to have any effect. I would like to replace the thermostat anyway, but I have never seen one with this auxiliary heat option. Do I need to find a new one that will accommodate that? This is also my first heat pump. I don't need a special thermostat for that, do I?
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Apr 7, 2010 18:17
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Thank you bep! I will ask the gf what our power bills are. I have not a clue.
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Apr 7, 2010 19:09
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I bought a new thermostat :o. I figure we need a new one anyway, so I might as well give it a shot in the off chance that it actually fixes our problem. The manual very plainly says to turn off the breaker for the heat and a/c. It does not mention the "service disconnect" which is a separate box on the outside of the house connected directly to the compressor (heat pump?) unit. Do I need to turn this off before I muck around with the thermostat? edit: The reason I ask is because the box is strange to me. There seem to be some industrial fuses behind a panel that I am not sure how to remove. I would prefer to leave it all alone if that is safe. other people fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Apr 8, 2010 |
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Apr 8, 2010 18:53
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Well gently caress me, it worked! My house is officially freezing! I really did not think that replacing the thermostat would actually help, but whatever, I'm not complaining! Thanks guys!
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Apr 8, 2010 19:48
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Ceiling fans cannot be installed on a plain light fixture mount, as far as I know. They need something a bit more substantial to carry the weight.
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Apr 10, 2010 15:51
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Our kitchen has two switches that control a light in the ceiling. For some reason it is wired so that both switches have to be on for the light to work, instead of each switch just toggling the light on or off. What do I need to do to have them working properly?
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Apr 22, 2010 04:25
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slap me silly posted:Need more information. Are both switches the three-way type, and do they have the extra conductor running between them? Usually red/black/white/ground in a single cable. If so, they might just be miswired. Here is a good set of diagrams: They are 3-way switches. One switch has red/white/black, with black being common, and the other has red/black/black, with one of the blacks being common. The 2nd switch's box also has a white wire with a cap on it, seemingly doing nothing. I don't have any sort of testing equipment.
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Apr 22, 2010 21:58
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Kaluza-Klein posted:They are 3-way switches. Sorry to quote myself, but am I going to be stuck unless I have a volage meter?
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Apr 26, 2010 16:20
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Ahh! Out of the blue, some device that looks like an old smoke detector started making a god awful buzz. Two very loud bleeps, maybe one second long with a few seconds in between. I honestly had never noticed it before. It is on the ceiling in the hall way, about one foot away from the "real" smoke detector (which has fresh batteries, tests well, and did not make a peep). My first thought is that it is a smoke detector that is out of batteries, but it seems to be hard wired into the house. There is a dim red LED that is on inside it. The power did not blip or anything when it went off. Is it a smoke detector? Carbon monoxide detector? What else could it be? It is right next to a central air return, if that matters. No one was cooking. The only thing I can think of is that I had to feed the cats some terrible smelling wet cat food as we have ran out of the dry. Surely a warning device for smelly cat food must exist? Is this one?   There are more pictures if you click and they are high resolution if you care. The pictures do not do a good job of conveying the depth of this thing. It sticks out of the ceiling about 2.5 inches. It is much thicker than any smoke detector I have ever seen. I just don't want this thing to go off at night, as I have no idea what it is telling me or how to stop it.
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May 12, 2010 01:09
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I can twist it and take it off, but I am sort of afraid to pull it down too far, as obviously there are live wires up there, and it doesn't want to drop down too far. In other words, I noticed that message too, but I am afraid to investigate it  .There is no alarm system that we are aware of, no door bell. The smoke detector is batteries only. edit: Smoke detector!  Rotated for your pleasure. Can some one educate me on proper smoke detector etiquette? We have a battery operated detector for both upstairs and for downstairs. Does this wired detector offer us an extra level of protection, or is it just redundant? Why did it go off when the battery detector next to it was silent? Is it too old? I certainly don't mind having a wired one, but as far as I can tell it does not have any sort of button we can press to turn it off if it starts buzzing again, and that is what I am concerned about. pps. what is the yellow wire? I can't seem to figure out exactly how old this thing is, but judging from the design, it cannot be that new. Apparently smoke alarms should be replaced every 10 years, so maybe it is time to replace this one. Is there a recommended brand/type? The BRK site mentions that smoke alarms should not be mounted near humidity (showers), or central air returns, and this thing is mounted within inches of an air return and right outside the door to the bathroom (with shower). Neat. other people fucked around with this message at 02:36 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 02:07
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I am trying to install a new phone jack. I have the phone wire ready to go (24AWG Cat5E UTP), I just don't know how to connect it to the NID on the side of my house. I took the attached terrible photo of the inside of our NID. I have no idea where to begin! My box doesn't really look like any of the diagrams I have found online. On my RJ-25 connector, I have wired as follows: 1 white/green 2 white/orange 3 blue 4 white/blue 5 orange 6 green There are brown and white/brown wires in the cat5 cable as well, but these are unused? edit: I ended up connecting blue to red and white/blue to green. I hope that was correct? Phone service here doesn't get connected for another week. And I don't even have a land-line phone, anyway :p. other people fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Sep 2, 2010 |
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Sep 2, 2010 21:08
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Thanks for the phone help guys! Everything is working well so far! DSL is up and phone calls can be made. The phone jack in the kitchen was cut off at the NID. I hooked it back up, but then I noticed something odd about the other connection in the NID. It is something the old owners must have done. It is a line that runs outside the house to the bedroom. I guess it is some sort of cat5 type cable (as opposed to old fashioned phone line) and the orange pair was connected to the red/green hookups on the NID (where I connected my line). I was going to completely remove it, but the blue pair of that same cat5 cable are connected to a red/green pair that disappear into the phone company only serviceable box. It is done with some strange snap connector, which you can sort of see to the right of the red connection in my original picture. Anyway, it doesn't look like I can disconnect it without cutting things or getting into that phone co. serviceable area. I guess it wouldn't hurt to cut it, but I just can't figure out what is going on there? Also, to make this post even longer, in connecting the kitchen back up I realized there are two NID's back there. One is much older and must be the home's original. All the input to the NID I was messing with seems to run to this older NID. Can anyone speculate as to why this newer NID is there? Can I skip it entirely and connect to the old one? Would you need pictures/diagrams to say so? There is only one phone line in the home right now, but the jack in the kitchen has two plugs, so maybe this has something to do with a 2nd line installation? It is hard to say, as the jacks in the kitchen were completely disconnected behind the plate!
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Sep 15, 2010 16:23
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chedemefedeme posted:Hope that all made sense. Typing fast because dinner is ready. Feel free to ask other questions. Post a picture standing back from your whole demarc/service entry area on the house if you want. Can probably judge things better that way. Here are some terrible photos: http://ntrnt.com/phone01.jpg http://ntrnt.com/phone02.jpg http://ntrnt.com/phone03.jpg http://ntrnt.com/phone04.jpg I can answer questions after lunch!
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Sep 20, 2010 16:41
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Our house is eating electronics :/. This summer during a storm I lost the motherboard to my PC and our new network printer stopped working. A few days ago another storm killed our DSL modem (which required buying a new one, which we won't need in two weeks when new internet service is being installed but whatever :/) and just today I realize that it also killed our replacement network printer! It some how managed to kill the network port, but the USB, wireless, and printing itself still work. A good thing, because I doubt the warranty will cover it. Is this just a string of bad luck, or is it indicative of some other electrical problem with the house? We've lived here for three years now, and I've never in memory had anything killed by lightening here or anywhere else I have lived. The weather here (NC, USA) certainly isn't any worse than normal (lol global warming). The house is from the early 80's. Everything seems fine with the electrical, but ianae! Another question I have is about UPS protection for the computer/electronics. I have a UPS on order for the PC, but my understanding is that you cannot plug laser printers into an SPS or UPS because they draw too much power when they warm up. Is there any way for me to protect my printer? Is simply having it off when not in use enough, or should I leave it unplugged? Someone in the networking thread recommended this for the DSL modem: http://www.amazon.com/APC-PTEL2-Protectnet-Modem-Protection/dp/B00006BBGS/ Is one of these recommended? Can I not just use the RJ45 port on the new UPS to connect the DSL's phone line? What are the odds (or is it even possible) of an "unprotected" network device being hit by lightening and sending a shock via the network cable to the router and then all the other devices on the router, therefore bypassing the expensive UPS? I feel really paranoid now.
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Aug 24, 2011 17:18
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I would like to install some under cabinet lighting in our kitchen. I have the lights and some appropriate wire from the hardware store, but I have no idea how to wire it (or anything, for that matter). My plan is to connect them to the wall outlets that are along the wall directly under the cabinets. Since these are not on a switch (always live) and the new lighting has on/off switches, I think I would just pair together the incoming live wires with the new wire for the light, and connect these pairs to the socket just like it already is? Does that make any sense, is it completely wrong? Can some one make it really simple for me? Thank you. I have the outlets turned off at the breaker, so hopefully I can't hurt myself too badly!
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May 7, 2012 23:31
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These lights are designed to be hardwired. I have bought the right kind of 14gauge romex in-wall wiring. I would love to install an in-wall switch, but the backsplash of this kitchen is tile all the way around, and cutting through it is a bit more than I want to deal with. The lights themselves have a switch on them, too, thankfully. I have the first light mounted and wired to the romex inside the light case with a proper wire clamp securing the romex in place as it exits the light. A hole was drilled in the wall directly behind the light and the romex fished through and down to the outlet box. The outlet box already has two sets of wires, one connected to each side of the outlet itself. Can I not just add my new wire to one of the sides of the outlet? Thanks again for helping me with this.
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May 8, 2012 01:07
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grover posted:You're not supposed to double-lug, so if this is the 3rd cable in the box, you'll need to make a pigtail: remove one set, and wirenut it to your new wire plus a ~4" piece of wire to run back to the receptacle. Black is hot, white is neutral, and the receptacle is rated for pass-through, so it doesn't matter which set you use. So then there will be a set of lugs with three wires each? This box is going to be a bit tight. . .
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May 8, 2012 01:39
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Ah, what I did seems to work, but looking at that diagram, it isn't actually correct. There are three sets of wire coming in. One goes straight to the outlet. The other two I joined with a lug along with the four inch wire that connects them to the outlet. Correct would be to join all three sets together in lugs with a fourth short wire going to the outlet? Like so: http://imgur.com/Pzgbm ? And now, I have realized that it might not be such a big deal for me to double the size of the box and add a proper switch for the lights. I forget I own a dremel now and that it should quite easily cut the tile backsplash with the correct bit! Also also, if I have two of these under cabinet lights next to each other, can I have power enter one, then go out to the other, in a chain? So they are all controlled by the same switch? Assuming I use the proper romex wiring and wire clamps, etc? Any idea how to wire this??  lol
other people fucked around with this message at 19:26 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 17:16
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kid sinister posted:Depending on your dremel, then make a kit that is perfect for the tile... Before you start cutting however, you would still have more problems to solve. I bought their tile cutting bit and it made quick work of the tile. The single box in there now is an aftermarket one that is only held in by plastic tabs, so it was very easy to remove. I replaced it with the same style, just double the size. I wasn't sure if I would have to get ductwork or not for the wire. Not the end of the world to use it if I have to. I thought I knew how to wire this, but I guess I don't :/.
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May 8, 2012 21:10
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The lights are already installed and wired! I am just not sure how to wire box/switch/outlet. The box has two original romex wires and an outlet, and I have added a single pole switch and a romex that is going to the lights. http://img2.timeinc.net/toh/i/steps/undercabinet-Over.jpg This is close to what I have, except I am not using a dimmer and there is another existing romex wire to deal with. By the way, it is absolutely brutal trying to get all that solid copper wire in the loving box! When you guys bend the tabs on the blue plastic electric boxes to input cable, do you break the tab off or leave it? It does a good job of holding the wire in place, and maybe that is why it is there, but it makes it hell to pull in a bit more or push some back out after the fact. edit: gently caress I am not having fun any more > I wired it all up, flipped the breaker, and nothing. After turning the breaker off, I removed the outlet and switch, and then connected white to white, ground to ground, and black to black, using only the two original romex wires. Turn the breaker back on, and still nothing! What have I done?! edit edit: There is an uncovered outlet box buried in the lower cabinet that I have never noticed before. It has two romex going into it and a bunch of exposed wire :/. Jiggling the wires in the box I have installed wiggles the wires down in this box. I wonder if I knocked something loose, and why is there an uncovered electrical box here! edit edit edit: Removing everything from the cabinet I found a wire nut sitting on the floor that is missing its metal insert. I stuck a fresh net on the two wires that were obviously twisted together and all the circuits have power again! I guess I am glad that I have learned about this exposed box and can cover it correctly, but I am really mad I took apart all my wiring thinking it was wrong when it was just a loose nut somewhere else. gently caress. other people fucked around with this message at 00:16 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 21:26
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I got it done alright, finally! A few remaining quirks, one is that the box is flush with the drywall, but there is 1/4 inch tile on top of that, so the faceplate and outlets/switch are far from flush! I created some fat plastic washers out of drywall anchors to use between the outlet/switch and the box. It "works," but there has got to be a better way! I swear I had some other issues but I have forgotten them all overnight. Yay!
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May 9, 2012 16:12
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ncumbered_by_idgits posted:These work pretty good too. Oh, that looks nice! Ordered! Now I have to power wash the deck, paint the kitchen and bathroom (including ceilings) and whatever else my wife can think up while I am on vacation :/.
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May 9, 2012 18:25
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I am trying to replace a ceiling fan in an american house from 1935, though I believe the part of the house the fan is in is from the 50's. The new fan's mounting bracket is too large in that the smallest distance it allows between the screws that hold it to the electrical box is too wide apart for the box. I would use the old mounting bracket, but the new fan's bracket has unique screw holes which are needed to mount the fan to it. I have googled around a bit and replacing the box seems to be the only thing to do here. I can't find a smaller bracket or any type of adapter. Could some one confirm/deny this for me? Replacing the box is on the edge of what I am comfortable doing. I don't want to gently caress up the drywall on the ceiling because I am terrible at patching that stuff. But, I also don't want the fan to fall on someones head. Also, can anyone recommend an electrician in the Raleigh/Durham area of North Carolina? This house needs new electrical panels and to be completely rewired. What fun!
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Aug 30, 2014 22:48
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kid sinister posted:Replacing a box isn't that hard. Look at it this way: as long as you don't gently caress up for more than a couple inches around the box, the fan's base will cover your drywall fuckups. Thank you. https://imgur.com/nIhcllg I don't think this is a fan-rated box, is it?
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Aug 31, 2014 16:49
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I seem to have screwed up the wiring of a replacement fan :/. I took the old fan out weeks ago and we just got the new fan today so I have no idea what the original wiring was like (mistake #1). In the ceiling fan box there are two each of white, black, and ground wires. The fan wiring guide said connect white to white, ground to ground, and both the blue and black wire from the fan to the black from the ceiling fan box. I connected the pair of whites from the ceiling to the white on the fan, the pair of grounds from the ceiling to the ground on the fan, and the pair of blacks from the ceiling to the blue and black from the fan. Flipping the single light switch blew the old Type S fuse from this panel. The panel was open and visible from where I was standing when this happened so it was kinda neat watching it pop but uh... poo poo. Did I wire it wrong or did I apparently wire it poorly? I had to use slightly larger twist-on wire connectors because there were two each of the solid copper wires but otherwise it was seemingly a straight-forward job and I definitely wouldn't have flipped the switch if I thought there was any chance something was touching something it shouldn't have been (assuming I didn't connect the wrong wires!).
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Oct 23, 2014 03:44
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kid sinister posted:Sounds like you shorted a switch leg with the switch. Got a circuit tester? Sorry, I am not entirely sure I understand what you are saying. I have a multimeter? Can I do anything useful with that? I waited until today to look at it again so I could do so in the daylight. I was thinking that I had to tug on the solid copper wiring quite a bit so that maybe I had rubbed through the wire jacket somewhere and something was touching improperly. Unfortunately, this does not seem to be the case, but I did take the time to put in a clamp where the house wiring comes through the fan electrical box so it is all snug and the wires don't move/rub anywhere. Assuming the colours of the wires in this house are to standard, did I wire the fan correctly? Or, would one need more information to say? I just want to wire it back up the same way I had it before, but I only have one extra fuse left so I don't really want to do this until I know it at least "should" be the right way!
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Oct 25, 2014 17:38
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The wall switch just had the normal white, black, and ground. Okay, so, using a FLUKE 333 "clamp meter" that was left at this house, I set it to the setting which has what looks like a soundwave and an ohm symbol. With the fuse out and the switch on, one pair reads ~ 25.0 ohms and the other pair reads ~ 0.9 ohms. With the switch off, the 0.9 ohm pair reads nothing at all. So the 0.9/nothing pair is my switch pair? Am I an electrician now? edit: I found my multimeter and using the instructions I set it to continuity testing mode. It does not give any sort of read out, it just beeps when there is continuity. The odd thing is, with the switch off, it doesn't beep for either wires, but with the switch on, it beeps for both pairs? I must be doing something wrong. I am not going to get my electricians licence at this rate... edit edit: just kidding. I didn't have the leads plugged all the way in on the multimeter. It gives the same reading as the clamp meter now. other people fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 18:22
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kid sinister posted:Edit: Kaluza, I just reread your post and saw that your had to add a cable clamp. That box might not be rated for a ceiling fan. Could you post a picture of the inside of the box please? It definitely is. I bought it specifically and installed it last month. It was a kit which came with the bar that spans the ceiling joists. edit: Everything is all hooked up and working great now! Thank you everyone. other people fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 18:50
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Thank you guys again for all the help so far! I have a new problem. I bought a fancy new thermostat (https://www.ecobee.com) and foolishly assumed that since the HVAC had been completely replaced less than five years ago that surely the thermostat connection would have a common wire ("C" wire). If it does, it is not obvious. It definitely doesn't have a C wire connected, but it does have a fifth wire and a bit of googling does imply this may be the wire I am looking for. So far though, I have found no tricks for how I determine whether it is indeed the common wire. Is this possible to determine without having to tear apart the HVAC and checking the wiring there? In case you care to look: https://imgur.com/1gyqytF From here: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/10482/how-can-i-add-a-c-wire-to-my-thermostat/10527#10527 "If you're lucky when you upgrade to a newer thermostat that requires this connection, there will be an extra (unsused) wire in the cable at the thermostat. If you're not, you'll have to run new cable to the thermostat." I am hoping I am lucky???
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Oct 28, 2014 00:18
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Even if you're lucky, you're going to have to open up the air handler and make sure the wire is connected at the other end, and connect it if not. I am not sure if I was staring into the air handler or the furnace. It appears to be one large unit? The fuse which disconnects power to the furnace also disconnects power the the loving light in the attic. Good thinking!   I see from the manual there should be a furnace control thermostat unit but it is not at all clear to me where that is... I didn't see anything with a red, green, yellow, and white wire protruding.
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Oct 28, 2014 02:30
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kid sinister posted:You're looking at the furnace. Take the panel off to the right. You see that brown wire at the bottom Right of your first picture? Follow it to the right. That is the thermostat wire. Yay, thank you. I had a suspicion I was in the wrong place but there was no other obvious panel to remove. I can now control our thermostat from anywhere in the world. Awesome, I guess....
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Oct 29, 2014 00:54
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Let me know if there is a better place to ask this. I want to drop a coax cable from my attic down into an inside wall. The attic is covered in floor board, so from up there, I have zero indication of exactly where the wall is. Is there any technique or trick I can use to determine where to make the hole?
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Jul 8, 2015 02:39
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slap me silly posted:I would cut a hole in the wall, drill up from below, and fix it later. Assuming it's drywall and not plaster. If it's plaster you're hosed. Of course it is plaster. Beautiful, textured plaster :/ . Thank you for the answers. I'll have to give this a think!
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Jul 8, 2015 03:25
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We have a gas range (both the stove and oven are gas) and out of the blue it tripped the breaker on the circuit it is on and continues to do so any time we plug it back in. I plugged it into an outlet on a different circuit and it tripped that breaker too, so it is definitely an issue with the range and not its outlet. IANAE so I have no clue what could be causing this. I checked the wire and plug and they do not appear damaged. Is there anything else a moron can be guided to check? To have a guy come look at it will be $125 for coming through the door and $50 for every 30 minutes, lol. A new oven is ~$700 and memorial day sales are coming up so I am leaning towards skipping the guy and just buying a new one.... Funny story to give you an idea of how dumb we are. When this happened, my wife ran out to the store to buy a cheap hotplate so we'd at least be able to use all the ingredients in our fridge before they go bad. I thought this was a very good idea. It wasn't until the next day that it dawned on me that we could still use the stove top by lighting the burners with a match. ha. Also also, if I do buy a new range, I've heard that having the oven part be electric is preferable to it being gas. But I seem to recall electric ovens having larger plugs (we're in the US). Am I correct about that? Right now there is just a standard outlet behind the oven, so to switch to an electric oven would require a proper outlet be installed?
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May 19, 2017 15:51
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Also, I never appreciated how much I rely on the oven's clock. Holy gently caress.
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May 19, 2017 15:53
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H110Hawk posted:Dual energy ranges are all the rage. You will need to at a minimum have the outlet swapped out, probably the wires too depending on what size was installed, and a new breaker put in your panel to provide the 240v outlet required. Hmm. I don't know if we want an electric oven that badly.... The actual breaker is tripping; if there is a GFCI outlet involved here I am not aware of it. Once the oven is unplugged and the breaker flipped back into the ON position, a lamp plugged into the same outlet works fine. I like the idea of having it all open and ready for them to get to when they arrive; thank you for that. The panel and breaker box were replaced when we moved in about two years ago; the old panel used the glass screw-in fuses lol. However, we opted not to have the entire house rewired at the same time so it is all a bit of a mess. The oven outlet is on the same circuit as a room on the other side of the house and an unrelated hallway. The rest of the kitchen is apparently on a completely different circuit. Most of the rooms only have one outlet and only the bathrooms, kitchen (partially), and my office (with 1) have grounded outlets tee hee. It is all very charming I assure you.
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May 19, 2017 16:12
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shame on an IGA posted:Oven guy get a cheap multimeter and see if any of the pins in the plug have continuity to each other. Tripping the breaker instantly when you plug it in sounds like there's a direct short circuit somewhere. http://imgur.com/a/kVy5u Am I doing this right???
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May 19, 2017 22:26
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Doing the same test between the ground and either other prong just reads zero. I'll take the back off tomorrow... Thank you guys.
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May 19, 2017 23:10
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