|
A torch isn't really an option, the engine casings are factory painted, cooling might be an option though, and I may yet try a freeze-spray. Trying one last local place for a left hand bit today and if they don't have one I'll go Amazon, there's only standard post available so it doesn't matter if I order it yesterday or today, it still won't be here 'til Monday.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 08:12 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2013 18:26 |
|
|
Alternative solution - cut off the head of one of your new bolts, superglue it onto the broken one, don't mention it when you sell the bike. Think of it as your contribution to austerity Britain's spirit of mend and make do.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 09:02 |
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:cooling might be an option though, and I may yet try a freeze-spray. Why wouldn't that also screw up the paint? Haven't used it myself, only a torch, so I'm curious about the technique too.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 12:47 |
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Why wouldn't that also screw up the paint? Haven't used it myself, only a torch, so I'm curious about the technique too. It's not like liquid nitrogen, just an aerosol can. In any case, I spoke to my machinist friend today and he reckons he can get it out without dropping the engine, he's just down the road from the auto-upholsterer so I may take the day off and kill two birds with one stone.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 13:11 |
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Why wouldn't that also screw up the paint? Haven't used it myself, only a torch, so I'm curious about the technique too. Cheat: just turn a can of compressed air upside down. The propellant will freeze the bolt and not damage the paint. After you do this see of you can catch an edge on the bolt and use a screwdriver or punch and a hammer to back the bolt out. If not, then have-at-you with the drill bits and such.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 13:47 |
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:You could also try heating the metal around the bolt (put some modelling clay or something over the stud to stop it heating up as much), obviously after it's cooled down from heating the stud up, but normally if it's absolutely flush getting differential heat on it can be really tricky. Sounds like the paint issue kills the torch idea. I don't think the differential is a problem though. If the steel bolt is in an aluminum case, the metals will expand and contract at different rates under common heat, that difference usually suffices to break up the corrosion, etc. that has seized the bolt. Definitely go slow with the drilling, but gently caress using an extractor. Those things break too easily and once they do, you will never get the hardened steel extractor out.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 15:01 |
|
|
You can fairly quickly dissolve a steel bolt from an aluminum case using nitric acid, if you have a way of getting your hands on that. Or you could maybe find a company that does tap extraction and have them burn it out electrically.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 15:25 |
|
|
Sagebrush posted:You can fairly quickly dissolve a steel bolt from an aluminum case using nitric acid, if you have a way of getting your hands on that. Or you could maybe find a company that does tap extraction and have them burn it out electrically. Does nitric acid not affect the aluminum case? If so, that would be loving badass and make snapped bolts NBD ever.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 16:21 |
|
|
How about the paint?
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 17:51 |
|
|
Aluminum is fairly non-reactive in nitric acid because it forms a passivation layer at the contact point. I wouldn't leave the acid sitting on an aluminum surface for a long time, but a couple of hours won't hurt it and that should be all you need if you have access to the good stuff. The steel bolt will fizz and rust into a bunch of black dust, and after you've scraped it out and chased the threads you're set. (On the other hand, be extraordinarily careful with alkaline compounds around aluminum. Something like sodium hydroxide will happily chew up the protective layer of aluminum oxide and reduce the whole part to swiss cheese alarmingly fast) I would imagine nitric acid would be really bad for the paint, so don't get any on it.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 17:53 |
|
|
What's the recommended neutralizing agent?
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 18:11 |
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Aluminum is fairly non-reactive in nitric acid because it forms a passivation layer at the contact point. I wouldn't leave the acid sitting on an aluminum surface for a long time, but a couple of hours won't hurt it and that should be all you need if you have access to the good stuff. The steel bolt will fizz and rust into a bunch of black dust, and after you've scraped it out and chased the threads you're set. What about using Alum to dissolve the steel bolt out of the aluminum cases?
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 18:16 |
|
|
Sagebrush posted:You can fairly quickly dissolve a steel bolt from an aluminum case using nitric acid, if you have a way of getting your hands on that. Or you could maybe find a company that does tap extraction and have them burn it out electrically. Getting nitric acid in your hands is probably a bad idea 
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 18:35 |
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:What about using Alum to dissolve the steel bolt out of the aluminum cases? That does form an acidic solution and will work eventually, but it's the mildest possible (read: slowest) method and is more commonly used by watchmakers to dissolve tiny screws from delicate brass fittings. You also have to keep the alum solution hot or it simply won't react at all. The advantage is that the solution is already saturated with aluminum ions, so there is literally no chance of damaging the aluminum casing. Hope you have a couple of weeks though. Splizwarf posted:What's the recommended neutralizing agent? Baking soda in water will work fine, just rinse it well afterwards.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 19:30 |
|
|
What did you do to your ride (last night) Changed the gearbox oil, perhaps one of the few uses of non-detergent SAE 30 left on the road. And cleaned the front brake area. Also changed my rear brake shoes for the first time, with help from a more experienced buddy. I love that feeling of overcoming the intimidation of taking on a mechanical project for the first time. Granted, this is a very simple project, but as we got into it I had a major "Oh, that's it?" moment. I could do it again in 20 minutes. Awesome. Now I'm ready to take this on a 300+ mile trip this weekend for a scooter rally (~100mi there, ~100 miles at the rally, and ~100mi back).
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 19:47 |
|
|
Just use ATF type F for the trans in the future...
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 20:26 |
|
|
n8r posted:Just use ATF type F for the trans in the future... This is a Stella/Vespa. ND30 is what the manual suggests and what everyone uses, though a few ambitious types are using ~80w gear oil instead.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 20:45 |
|
|
Sagebrush posted:That does form an acidic solution and will work eventually, but it's the mildest possible (read: slowest) method and is more commonly used by watchmakers to dissolve tiny screws from delicate brass fittings. You also have to keep the alum solution hot or it simply won't react at all. The advantage is that the solution is already saturated with aluminum ions, so there is literally no chance of damaging the aluminum casing. Hope you have a couple of weeks though. I was thinking more to loosen screws rather than completely dissolve.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 21:41 |
|
|
Gay Nudist Dad posted:This is a Stella/Vespa. ND30 is what the manual suggests and what everyone uses, though a few ambitious types are using ~80w gear oil instead. ATF type F would work perfectly.
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 21:50 |
|
|
n8r posted:ATF type F would work perfectly. Safe on a wet clutch with cork plates? The ND30 has been working in Vespa transmissions for decades and is cheap as chips ($3-4/qt), so switching is a bit of a tough sell. What would be the advantage of ATF type F, presumably reduced wear?
|
| # ? Jul 26, 2012 22:01 |
|
|
My new 1991 Nighthawk 750. Got it registered! Just in time for the last couple months of the season. I also bombed around town on it a bit. Quite a change after a few months of scooters in Thailand. Then I took it downtown to watch Dark Knight and managed to brain fart and walk off with the keys in the ignition, parked on a busy downtown street during full daylight. A little over an hour later, while waiting for the movie to start I realized and sprinted back to the bike. Keys still there. Then on the way home I took a wrong turn on Montreals loving crazy highway system and ended up crossing a bridge in some other part of Quebec. Google maps saves the day, eventually, and I get home with a nice ride under my belt. BIEKS.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 00:46 |
|
|
Backov posted:
That is indeed a lovely feeling.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 01:58 |
|
|
Today I pulled my tank out of the electrolysis bath, and used some Tal-Strip II paint remover. Only a tiny bit of bondo under the terrible terrible rattle can metallic paint that was on it. I need to find some primer that is compatible with the paint I want to use so I can get it sealed up and start doing body filler. I also found out that goddamn Yamalube carb dip that was supposed to be all that ALSO eats cad plating. For 16 bux I could have gotten an awful lot of pinesol for the same results  So I spent a lot of time cleaning the disgusting cadmium goop out of all my jets / seats / passages / petcocks / springs / everywhere. Apart from that the carbs look spotless. I need to find a new choke elbow as the threads on mine are all barfed up and it will not stay in there. Oh, and wintergreen oil does some WORK. My carb boots are so silky soft and delicious smelling. I can't stop playing with them. So now I need to finish blasting my master cylinders and brake hardware so I can get some Gun-Kote on there. The calipers turned out BEAUTIFUL and I can't wait to have a sparkling clean brand new brake system  Then, I get to start installing heli-coils on all of the stripped out threads on the engine casings. Ugh. The PO also did not use a gasket and instead RTV'd everything together so the shift shaft sometimes rubs. Yeah engine tear-down wooo wooo wooo. I am not going to ride this thing until Winter I swear.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 04:13 |
|
|
Commodore_64 posted:
no xylol (xylene)? http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/20...ount-carbs.html
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 06:25 |
|
|
The good: replaced the very dead Sachs shock on my Tuono with a shiny new-to-me Ohlins and enjoyed regaining the extra foot (it felt like) of ride height. Possibly explains why the bike was losing grip at the front first, also why the bike was destroying new tyres at a rate of knots. The bad: found out that the persistent squeak from the back end I had been waiting to check out until I did the shock was a pair of completely failed roller bearings. As in the linkage came apart and the rollers all fell out in a shower of rust.  Luckily there was enough of the race left to roll carefully home and park it up. I also discovered a major problem with Italian bikes: if you order parts from Aprilia in August, you will not get them, because their entire supply chain shuts down for the holidays. So while I can replace the bearings, the slightly shagged pin that bears on them is going to have to be cleaned up and pressed (ha!) back into service until the idle Italians can be bothered to return to work. In September, FFS! (yes, I am jealous).
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 06:41 |
|
|
So my VFR decided that I wasn't giving it enough attention and left me stranded at school with no power. I get a tow from a friend and start tearing her down. I spent the last couple of days going through the bike and taking everything off. After completely inspecting the wiring harness for shorts and checking the starter relay and every switch, I was frustrated and tapped the tach which led to all the lights turning on. So now I have no idea what I did and I hope it doesn't happen again because wow i have no idea. Completely tore down a bike just because the bike wanted to make sure I still knew how...
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 07:41 |
|
|
Saga posted:So while I can replace the bearings, the slightly shagged pin that bears on them is going to have to be cleaned up and pressed (ha!) back into service until the idle Italians can be bothered to return to work. In September, FFS! (yes, I am jealous). Got no local machine shops you can pop it into? from 'pin' I take it the part isn't complex?
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 08:21 |
|
|
Saga posted:The good: replaced the very dead Sachs shock on my Tuono with a shiny new-to-me Ohlins and enjoyed regaining the extra foot (it felt like) of ride height. Possibly explains why the bike was losing grip at the front first, also why the bike was destroying new tyres at a rate of knots. I would check ebay/AF1 racing in America - they're a huge dealer and I imagine they ship internationally. My Falco rode so much better with the ride height jacked up via running a ton of preload in the stock shock. I once lowered it down and it wasn't even the same bike.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 13:03 |
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:Got no local machine shops you can pop it into? from 'pin' I take it the part isn't complex? Yeah, talked about that with my local bike shop owner who does have a machine shop he uses regularly. It's basically a cylinder about 0.5cm diameter that bears on the rollers and is drilled for the linkage's mounting bolt, which retains it in the housing, so not complicated to reproduce. If there's no other solution I'll ask about that next week. N8R, this shock seems to be setup with very little preload (like 1cm at most) as it came off an RSV. It's a 2001 so the spring rate should be correct for my weight, but I will have to set it up once the linkage is fixed. No good linkages on ebay UK right now, but good point, I might e-mail AF1 with a part number - they could just put it in an airmail envelope and I'd have it by next week. Good thinking! Glad I caught it before it started eating the housing on the swingarm. I suspect one of the POs must have regularly used a powerwasher on the linkage, because I've never seen chassis bearings that thoroughly destroyed.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 13:27 |
|
|
Saga posted:The good: replaced the very dead Sachs shock on my Tuono with a shiny new-to-me Ohlins and enjoyed regaining the extra foot (it felt like) of ride height. Possibly explains why the bike was losing grip at the front first, also why the bike was destroying new tyres at a rate of knots. You won't see anything until after christmas. My buddy was pissing himself about getting his new exhaust for his Duc in time. The first one they sent him got crushed in transit. EvilCrayon posted:Completely tore down a bike just because the bike wanted to make sure I still knew how... Electrical ghosts are the worst. Start going over your harness with a multimeter and check continuity on all the wires. After that check resistance. Before you do any of that be sure to clean all your grounds.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 14:11 |
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:no xylol (xylene)? Neglected to mention it.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 16:10 |
|
|
Saga posted:The good: replaced the very dead Sachs shock on my Tuono with a shiny new-to-me Ohlins and enjoyed regaining the extra foot (it felt like) of ride height. Possibly explains why the bike was losing grip at the front first, also why the bike was destroying new tyres at a rate of knots. In fairness to Piaggio, this is a vast improvement to what Aprilia were like pre-takeover, where every month was August. Had to wait six weeks for a replacement rear brake disc for my RS125 (and even then Aprilia UK pulled that off a bike fresh out of the crate which was, I was reliably informed, being returned to Noale because they'd managed to ship it without an engine).
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 16:17 |
|
|
I have no idea how the Tuono compares to the Falco, but I really liked having the rear raised and the front dropped on the Falco. My RSVR which definitely needs a little attention to at least the forks - leaking seals - is still just an amazing setup bike and I haven't even looked at the suspension yet.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 16:36 |
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:You won't see anything until after christmas. My buddy was pissing himself about getting his new exhaust for his Duc in time. The first one they sent him got crushed in transit. Continuity and resistance is the same thing. If you read a wire and get O.L, you have no continuity because a wire is broken(open). If you get high ohms, then you have a degraded/corroded wire that is impeding current flow.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 18:00 |
|
|
blue squares posted:Continuity and resistance is the same thing. If you read a wire and get O.L, you have no continuity because a wire is broken(open). If you get high ohms, then you have a degraded/corroded wire that is impeding current flow. Yeah I forget that most multimeters have separate continuity and resistance tests. I meant go over all the wires to make sure they actually have continuity first, then worry about comparing resistance readings.
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 19:49 |
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:In fairness to Piaggio, this is a vast improvement to what Aprilia were like pre-takeover, where every month was August. Had to wait six weeks for a replacement rear brake disc for my RS125 (and even then Aprilia UK pulled that off a bike fresh out of the crate which was, I was reliably informed, being returned to Noale because they'd managed to ship it without an engine). Sounds about right. AF1 do indeed have my "connecting rod pin l40" in stock. They also want $40 to put it in an envelope, which even if they use global priority sounds like $25 for them and $15 for USPS, from memory. So I think I'll just clean up the existing one and re-use it until Aprilia come back from holiday, and/or take it to that machine shop and have it copied. There's actually not a lot wrong with the stock Showa/Sachs combination as long as you don't want super plush, high quality damping. It's just in my case the shock wasn't damping anything and also it now has a huge amount of play where the linkage attaches to the swingarm. Hopefully soon to be fixed!
|
| # ? Jul 27, 2012 21:22 |
|
|
Replaced both tires, all six brake pads, and a quart of brake fluid. OEM pads in that thing, and OEM chocolate milk in the brake reservoir. The clutch fluid didn't look quite so nasty. However, the front brake drags. Can't get more than about 1/8 turn on it. Should I not worry about it until I try to bed the brakes? The rear also has new pads and fluid and works like normal. I didn't try to ride any yet; it was slowly drizzling. New brakes + new tires + wet roads = probably a spill.
|
| # ? Jul 28, 2012 01:16 |
|
|
Saga posted:Sounds about right. If you're desperate you could have it shipped to me in Houston and I can ship it onwards. My brother sent me an ohlins shock for my tuono a while ago now. Im pretty much resigned its lost in the mail somewhere and I'll never see it at this point, but every day I get back from work I still get my hopes up that it arrived.
|
| # ? Jul 28, 2012 03:18 |
|
|
I live in Austin, and am not terribly far from San Marcos, so if AF1 has it in either of their stores in wouldn't mind picking up a part for you or any other scooter goons.
|
| # ? Jul 28, 2012 19:28 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2013 18:26 |
|
|
Not my ride, but while I was in my car driving up a gigantic hill I came across a guy pushing his brand new diavel. His girlfriend was just standing there watching so I got behind with my hazards on so he didn't get hit by a car. It even had the dealer plates on it still
|
| # ? Jul 28, 2012 20:16 |
|
