|
Slavvy posted:I'd place Yamaha only slightly behind Honda as far as Japanese makes go.
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 03:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 11:14 |
|
|
I listed it for sale. I also registered for a trackday on Sunday. Seems like a legit plan.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Sep 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 04:12
|
|
|
"never been raced"
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 04:24
|
|
|
Technically true 
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 04:39
|
|
|
Finished installing the clutch cable. But I failed at finding/making something that would reduce the vertical slop in the lever. Oh well, business as usual. Throttle cables were easy too. Added some grease to the throttle tube. Both controls now have action that I would characterize as "snappy". Which means I'm going to have to re learn how to ride it. Tomorrow is oil change and adjust the primary chain day. Friday is pack Buell day. Saturday begins "I hope the Jardine doesn't explode" week.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 06:25
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:But I failed at finding/making something that would reduce the vertical slop in the lever. Oh well, business as usual. What the hell, HD couldn't share their vertical slop eliminator technology? It's a piece of curved plastic mounted to the underside of the lever. In a pinch, a guitar pick will get 'er done.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 07:30
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Consumer Reports places them ahead of Honda. I would too, from a mechanic's perspective. Honda does a lot of stupid poo poo with their designs, Yamaha less so. A lot of people were complaining about new Yamahas a few years ago - I've no personal experience myself but the consensus seemed to be that they'd got a bit complacent with QA, with fit and finish and stuff like cables and wiring in particular suffering. I've no idea if that was just a perception thing like it was with French cars in the nineties or if there was an actual issue, but I have a few friends who claim they'll never buy another Yamaha after being let down by really stupid poo poo like broken clutch cables and shorts caused/exacerbated by silly wire routing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 07:41
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:I always seem to have vehicles that work "just so." And, my attitude towards them is, to quote Jeremy Clarkson on British Leyland, "That'll do." Everything I do is "that'll do." For instance, my 1979 CB650 has a clogged accelerator pump after I synced the carburetors. I know for a fact it's the accelerator pump, and all I need to do is drop the carb bowl, clean the swollen, gelatinous RTV out of it, and reinstall for perfect operation. But, since syncing the carbs, all the clogged accelerator pump means right in this very moment is that I can't do a wheelie anymore, and it bogs a tiny bit at lower/mid (1/8 to 1/3) throttle positions, and that it takes awhile to start as I can't spray any fuel directly into the intake to give it a go. You're me. I once had an ignition barrel on a lovely daihatsu charade jam in a supermarket parking lot. I smashed the barrel and hotwired the car. A replacement barrel would literally have been twenty bucks from a wrecker. Instead I just kept hotwiring the car for the next four months until I sold it. I have to re-synch my TB's since I took out my PAIR system. It would take me half an hour and make the bike nicer to ride. But meeeeeeh it's good enough right now. Maybe next weekend. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Consumer Reports places them ahead of Honda. I would too, from a mechanic's perspective. Honda does a lot of stupid poo poo with their designs, Yamaha less so. I'm inclined to agree, somewhat. I think the fit and finish and overall parts quality on hondas is just stellar but their engineering, especially on their latest bikes, is just absolutely infuriating. I've never had to remove the tank, the ecu, half the wiring and the subframe just to fit a loving tail tidy before. Everything is pointlessly crammed together and then bolted to everything else. goddamnedtwisto posted:A lot of people were complaining about new Yamahas a few years ago - I've no personal experience myself but the consensus seemed to be that they'd got a bit complacent with QA, with fit and finish and stuff like cables and wiring in particular suffering. I've no idea if that was just a perception thing like it was with French cars in the nineties or if there was an actual issue, but I have a few friends who claim they'll never buy another Yamaha after being let down by really stupid poo poo like broken clutch cables and shorts caused/exacerbated by silly wire routing. Definitely a perception thing I think, I've never heard or seen anything bad about Yamaha outside the internet. They seem to have corporate lapses every once in a while (like the overstated R6 redline thing) but so does literally every company ever; Suzuki are a soviet tractor factory by comparison. As a side note, French cars in the nineties wasn't a perception thing - they were legitimately garbage and remain so to this day.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 09:37
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:As a side note, French cars in the nineties wasn't a perception thing - they were legitimately garbage and remain so to this day. Yeah but it's an interesting example of perception because while all three manufacturers had (provable) equivalent failure rates, people always considered Renault to be bulletproof, Citroen to be so-so and Peugeot to be worse than Satan. (It's particualrly interesting when you look at stuff like the JD Power results for, say, the VW Sharan/Seat Alhambra/Ford Galaxy, where they all come out of the same factory with only cosmetic differences but have wildly different satisfaction ratings and perceived reliability issues)
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 12:25
|
|
|
Pffft every mechanic knows that the reliability scale is thus: Toyota Honda Nissan Mitsubishi Mazda Subaru Gm Ford BMW Mercedes VAG All french cars Chrysler All italian cars Ending my derail now
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 19:59
|
|
|
Extra fun is the Peugeot 107/Citroen C1/Toyota Aygo thing. All three are being made by the same people, in the same factory, from the same components, only with some badge engineering done. They're the same loving car! And yet the Aygo consistently ranks much higher, and the C1 lower, than the 107 in all reliability rating I see.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 20:07
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Pffft every mechanic knows that the reliability scale is thus: 1998 wants its stereotypes back.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 20:28
|
|
|
Got my new windscreen today to replace the old broken one. Needed to drill 2 extra holes, but the 2 lovely plastic popnails that came with it didn't work at all. Off to buy some proper plastic pop nails with alu stems tomorrow. I didn't take a picture 
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 20:34
|
|
|
Chichevache posted:Even the smug sense of self-satisfaction that comes with not doing anything "disgusting"? That's pleasurable?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 22:45
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:1998 wants its stereotypes back. Sorry I forgot to put Korean cars in there at the mitsu level. They aren't outdated stereotypes, I work on cars less than a decade old every day. It still holds true, though Toyota and BMW have both slipped backward quite dramatically in the past few years.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 23:16
|
|
|
Nidhg00670000 posted:Extra fun is the Peugeot 107/Citroen C1/Toyota Aygo thing. All three are being made by the same people, in the same factory, from the same components, only with some badge engineering done. They're the same loving car! And yet the Aygo consistently ranks much higher, and the C1 lower, than the 107 in all reliability rating I see. I think a lot of that has to do with the dealership side of things. When I first started working at Acura back in 2000 (I'm old) we worked on a ton of SLXs which were rebadged, optioned up Izuzu Troopers. The Trooper had a horrible reliability rating but the SLX was pretty high. I'm pretty sure it came down to the fact that Acura techs are very well trained and have attention to detail that was lacking in most Izuzu dealers. Even though they were a pain in the rear end to work on and were completely different than anything else we had, they were fixed right the first time and wouldn't leave the shop otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 06:01
|
|
|
Bugdrvr posted:I think a lot of that has to do with the dealership side of things. When I first started working at Acura back in 2000 (I'm old) we worked on a ton of SLXs which were rebadged, optioned up Izuzu Troopers. The Trooper had a horrible reliability rating but the SLX was pretty high. I'm pretty sure it came down to the fact that Acura techs are very well trained and have attention to detail that was lacking in most Izuzu dealers. Even though they were a pain in the rear end to work on and were completely different than anything else we had, they were fixed right the first time and wouldn't leave the shop otherwise. The trooper/bighorn/horizon is one of those cars where you can get a good one and it'll go forever and take any abuse you can throw, or you get a lemon one and everything goes wrong despite your efforts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 06:20
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:As a side note, French cars in the nineties wasn't a perception thing - they were legitimately garbage and remain so to this day. Spoken as someone who's clearly never owned a French car 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 20:10
|
|
|
EX250 Type R posted:What I did to my ride: Put new chain adjusters on the xr100 I cut a strip off one of my socks and wrapped it with electrical tape. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 21:22
|
|
|
Awhile back I reached into my toolbox to grab something and shoved the tip of my finger onto a razor blade that I'd carelessly tossed into the top drawer. There is still a meandering trail of blood drops on the floor where I walked around trying to find a clean cloth to wrap it up in. I ended up fashioning a bandage out of a restaurant napkin and sponge bob duck tape.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 22:48
|
|
|
Changed fork oil instead of doing a valve clearance check because of this..  gently caress.. I'm not quite sure on how to attack it. it's soft aluminium. I think I'll try with a better 10mm hex socket, and impact driver, + heat on the outside, and get a 12mm hex socket too. New covers are avaliable and are pretty cheap, so I'm more concerned about getting it out than preserving it in any way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 21:30
|
|
|
Yeah, I don't think there's much point in keeping that cover, since regardless of how you take it off you're just going to have the same problem every time you have to check the valves in the future too. Maybe drill a pair of holes in it and use a pin spanner? (Or if you don't have a pin spanner, weld two nails to a piece of pipe)
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 21:38
|
|
|
Supradog posted:
Dremel a slot and use a really large flathead screwdriver?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 21:40
|
|
|
My thought. Gotta be real careful, slow and smooth with the flat head
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
Why can't you take the casing off and deal with it off the bike?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 01:12
|
|
|
Last week I pulled my Zuma's carb to fix a leak in the crank/needle cover. In trying to re-prime it I must have overworked the starter, because that went from fine, to only works in the afternoon to (today) nothing at all. It also turns out that the kick pinion gear was sufficiently worn that it doesn't engage reliably and also requires replacement. Checking the starter gave me a great opportunity to strip everything off the back of the scoot and see that this doesn't have an Athena BBK on it like the PO claimed, but an Airsal kit. And the carb is stock (not upgraded like he claimed), jetting included. Time to drink while I wait for ebay parts to ship from Taiwan. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 03:16
|
|
Boys who love boys
|
I got to spend a few hours looking for some half-threaded m6x50 bolts to replace the two that rattled out of my case saver/chain guard somewhere in a forest half an hour from home. Turns out they're rare as hens teeth, had to settle for m6x45 which go plenty deep enough, they should be fine. At least I managed to recover the chain guard and the plastic cover was too big to fall out past my boot so that lasted till I noticed it. Had a nice lunch in the forest though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 08:40
|
|
|
Ephphatha posted:I got to spend a few hours looking for some half-threaded m6x50 bolts to replace the two that rattled out of my case saver/chain guard somewhere in a forest half an hour from home. Turns out they're rare as hens teeth, had to settle for m6x45 which go plenty deep enough, they should be fine. At least I managed to recover the chain guard and the plastic cover was too big to fall out past my boot so that lasted till I noticed it. I was typing up a huge post telling you about McMaster-Carr and telling you just to order the bolts from there, but then I noticed that you said they were half-threaded. McMaster has m6x50 316 and 18-8 stainless bolts but they're fully-threaded instead of half-threaded. The only half-threads I can find are in 45 or 70mm. Whoever made your dirtbike must hate you to put such a weird bolt on there. Or they knew it would shake out and are trying to get you to come to the dealer.   gently caress 'em and get a fully-threaded bolt from McMaster-Carr anyways. Wait 2 days, get a delivery, use the right length. They basically saved my dumb rear end when my VFR bolts all rattled out and I was looking for a replacement that did not require me to saw off any limbs as a method of payment.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 12:59
|
|
|
Replaced lovely 50-50 front tire with a Full Bore something or other street tire. Feels much more maneuverable now.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2014 00:32
|
|
|
Changed the oil and did the string thing on the back tire, the ol' Mk.1 eyeball method was off by about 3/4" at the front forks. Bifocals suck btw.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2014 23:49
|
|
|
Put on new Suzuki tank decals.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 04:54
|
|
|
How does the string method work if you have casings and whatnot which stick out of the bike and interfere with the string? It doesn't seem it would work on my bike so I use a caliper to measure certain parts on each side of the swingarm.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 12:50
|
|
|
Put the sidestand on a piece of 2x4, so the bike's about level and use a piece of duct tape to keep the string in place low enough on the tire so it's below any problem parts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2014 02:00
|
|
|
Ordered a new used muffler. This is one of those cut up stock mufflers that basically de-Buellify the cleverly engineered stock muffler and make them louder. So I guess I'm keeping my potato potato.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2014 19:02
|
|
|
Are you going to clean it before install? Or is all that poo poo 'character'?
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2014 19:07
|
|
|
I am pretty sure that's a bunch of high temp engine paint that somebody rattle can'd on. I think I might hit it with some colored engine paint so it is as goofy as possible. Not sure how much it matters, that's the bike's new jack point.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2014 20:27
|
|
|
I was going to buy a Two-Brothers Juice Box, but I wanted to make sure there weren't other things more important to do. Looks like I already need a new rear brake pad, and I need to replace my plugs (I'd say ~30,000 miles is a pretty good run for standard copper plugs). My caliper seal on the rear is swollen again, too, so I'll have go clean all that out and lube it back up.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2014 21:09
|
|
|
Pope Mobile posted:I was going to buy a Two-Brothers Juice Box, but I wanted to make sure there weren't other things more important to do. Looks like I already need a new rear brake pad, and I need to replace my plugs (I'd say ~30,000 miles is a pretty good run for standard copper plugs). My caliper seal on the rear is swollen again, too, so I'll have go clean all that out and lube it back up. Thrill me, what does this mean?
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2014 22:20
|
|
|
It's like half of a fuel controller. Think Power Commander but instead of doing two things with precision (adding and removing fuel at specific parts of the rpm/throttle map) it hamfists one thing (adding fuel only across certain ranges of rpm adjusted by potentiometer adjustments). Usually they work pretty well on an EPA-tuned bike.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2014 22:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 11:14 |
|
|
clutchpuck posted:It's like half of a fuel controller. Think Power Commander but instead of doing two things with precision (adding and removing fuel at specific parts of the rpm/throttle map) it hamfists one thing (adding fuel only across certain ranges of rpm adjusted by potentiometer adjustments). Usually they work pretty well on an EPA-tuned bike. Yep. But I may as well start saving for a PC while I'm not getting the JB.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2014 03:42
|
|