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Installed Oxford heated grips. Super hot super fast. Need to mess with the throttle side, though; it's sticking and I basically have a throttle lock. E: huzzah for brake cleaner and razor blades. No more throttle lock. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jan 31, 2016 |
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Jan 31, 2016 07:40
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 well the caliper bracket finally arrived from thailand, fits right and seems to work. I am also replacing the crf250l front master cylinder with the smaller cbr250 one since the new brakes are 296mm vs the stock 256. also messed with the exhaust a little bit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Vq9_vkfKUg   braaap
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Feb 2, 2016 01:48
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Replaced the stock 16 tooth front sprocket with a 15 tooth on my rsv4. Night and day difference with low speed riding and taking off from a stop.
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Feb 2, 2016 03:05
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I ordered a black front fender for my 690 Duke, it arrived all scratched up. Shop ordered another one, again scratched in the same way from the factory, due to improper packaging. Now they're going to figure out how to get KTM to send one without it being damaged. Just KTM Things.
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Feb 3, 2016 18:24
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High Protein posted:I ordered a black front fender for my 690 Duke, it arrived all scratched up. Shop ordered another one, again scratched in the same way from the factory, due to improper packaging. Now they're going to figure out how to get KTM to send one without it being damaged. Just KTM Things. Even individual KTM parts try to shed weight, milligram by milligram.
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Feb 3, 2016 18:38
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High Protein posted:I ordered a black front fender for my 690 Duke, it arrived all scratched up. Shop ordered another one, again scratched in the same way from the factory, due to improper packaging. Now they're going to figure out how to get KTM to send one without it being damaged. Just KTM Things. subtle effort to get you to switch to the orange one
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Feb 3, 2016 18:58
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I bought a set of Leo Vince slipons for the Tuono for $250 this week. Finally got around to putting them on... SO QUIET, thank god.
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Feb 6, 2016 02:24
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Stiffass springs begone Eric Praline showed me how to swap em, which is the only reason I'm not out $$$ for a new set of forks. I also managed to disassemble/reassemble the bike without loving anything up for the first time ever.
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Feb 7, 2016 22:02
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I'm constantly amazed how you guys can do that kind of stuff without the building super or a nosy neighbour or w/e showing up and telling you to stop working the car park because of *reasons* that make no sense.
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Feb 7, 2016 22:22
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The trick is just doing poo poo until people tell you not to + being nice and respectful
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Feb 7, 2016 22:34
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Cleaned it (a sisyphean effort, as the weather is set to continue being awful  ), drained the tank so I could take it off to diagnose why my fuel gauge isn't working. loving thing wasn't even plugged in.  Unfortunately that wasn't the cause of it not working; I bridged the terminals of the connector leading to the display and the needle didn't so much as twitch, so there's definitely a problem somewhere between that connector and the cluster. Most of those wires are buried under a mountain of electrical tape running through the centre of the bike though, so I'm just going to order a new gauge and keep my fingers crossed that's where the fault is. Of course the sensor could be broken too, but no way to know until I get a new gauge installed. (yes I have a multimeter, yes I could check the resistance across the sensor with different levels of fuel in the tank, but  ) PS, gasoline is goddamn nasty. I hardly spilled any draining the tank, but just having it open and the garage full of (really quite sparse) fumes for an hour or so has left my throat feeling super ragged.
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Feb 7, 2016 23:14
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Beaucoup Cuckoo posted:The trick is just doing poo poo until people tell you not to + being nice and respectful
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Feb 7, 2016 23:28
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M42 posted:Front end awesomeness.  Slavvy posted:I'm constantly amazed how you guys can do that kind of stuff without the building super or a nosy neighbour or w/e showing up and telling you to stop working the car park because of *reasons* that make no sense. My apt complex maintenance staff even waves or stops by to see what I'm up to. One of them rides. Cool peeps. Beaucoup Cuckoo posted:The trick is just doing poo poo until people tell you not to + being nice and respectful Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Or not living in New Zealand.
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Feb 7, 2016 23:51
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Or not living in New Zealand. The last time I tried to do something like that was wheel bearings on my mate's VTR1000 in his apartment parking lot and we had four different people come along asking wtf we were doing. One threatened to call the property manager because we were 'making a mess' (there were no fluids involved) and some vague poo poo about how it's unsafe because someone might drive into us or something - nevermind that we were working entirely in one of the two parking spots allocated to him. Maybe it was just that particular place, I dunno. Being nice and respectful doesn't come naturally to me, I'll concede that.
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Feb 8, 2016 00:16
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I bent my rear brake lever back into shape and installed some new bar ends. Getting the little spring that sits over the rear brake back into place was a p[ain, and I had to remove the entire footpeg assembly to get it back on, discovering one stripped bolt in the process. On the plus side, I learnt how a brake master cylinder works and now my brake lever is much straighter than it was before.
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Feb 8, 2016 11:55
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Beaucoup Cuckoo posted:The trick is just doing poo poo until people tell you not to + being nice and respectful The trick is share your beer.
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Feb 8, 2016 13:32
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Beaucoup Cuckoo posted:The trick is just doing poo poo until people tell you not to + being nice and respectful Pretty much that and just covering it up/tidying up your workspace when you're done working for the day. I had the CBR apart for months in a very similar garage without hassle. That it was underground and the staff who would give a poo poo never came down also helped. Pretty sure pissing fuel and oil everywhere wasn't exactly in line with the building's "green" branding.
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Feb 8, 2016 22:15
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:The trick is share your beer. Both of these.
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Feb 9, 2016 01:06
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Went to convert the bike to naked and discovered the headlight mounts don't fit on the forks. Ended up doing the oil and rotating the tires on the car instead  At least I checked the fit before taking off the entire fairing and headlight assembly.
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Feb 10, 2016 04:39
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Cleaned up the CBR a bit. Put on a new front tire, ordered a black ebay rear seat, switched out the mirrors (ask me about ordering two different paint schemes for the mirrors  ), put on a new chain and sprocket set, and put on fresh brakes and fluid. Feels and rides great now, just need to wait for this dumb weather in VA to  .
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Feb 12, 2016 20:32
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That rimtape is perfect. Edit: wait... is that the CBR I saw on craigslist a couple weeks ago?
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Feb 12, 2016 20:39
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:That rimtape is perfect. It wasn't the one I linked the other week, although you may have seen it in the Fredericksburg CL. Heeding your advice I snagged an f4i version about an hour south of me at Lake Anna.
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Feb 12, 2016 21:08
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Finished front and rear suspension (stiffer springs/heavier oil and zx10r shock), new exhaust, and new handlebars. Also discovered a r6 throttle in the PO's box of parts so I might put that on too.
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Feb 13, 2016 21:16
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Got that stanky old tank pad off. Hairdryer and elbow grease worked a treat, thanks for the tip twisto. Renaissance Robot posted:drained the tank so I could take it off to diagnose why my fuel gauge isn't working. Update: turns out that the gauge not being plugged in really was the entire reason for it not working, and I just tested the wrong set of pins  Got to the pump today, filled it up, switched on and watched the needle sail right to the top. Goddammit PO, why would you tell me it was broken. Only weird thing is it doesn't go down when I turn the bike off. Doesn't move at all in either direction unless the ignition is on in fact, which is a new one on me; anybody else's bike do that?
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Feb 13, 2016 22:17
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Replaced my brake pads. Real glad I did for the rears, too, since I was about two hard brakes away from Caliper Country. Tools you might need: a loving heat gun. The hanger pins and mounting bolts on the 300 were apparently drilled in by Satan himself, so the heat gun really helped break the threadlock they used. Another weird thing I noticed is that while the front bolts/pins used a 5mm (which is the standard, and what it shows in the manual, etc.), the rear used 6mm. I'm wondering if that's something the dealership did when they had to replace my caliper on the rear brakes last year. It's weird and I was a little paranoid about it, but they're on there and they're working fine. And since someone will probably ask, no I really don't use my rear brakes that much, but I do use them when I come to a stop, and in stop-and-go traffic, which is a lot of my mornings. It adds up. Quick question: what kind of torque wrenches are you guys using? I've got a really nice one, but it's kind of huge, so I'm thinking there may be either a need for an extender for whatever sockets/drivers I use, or I need a smaller wrench.
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Feb 13, 2016 22:20
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Depends on your budget. I got a $500 electronic snapon one at the shop and several $20 harbor freight ones at home. The HF poo poo won't last real long but they get the job done generally. Sears stuff is good if you want it to last.
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Feb 14, 2016 02:15
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Also worth noting that beam-style torque wrenches are cheaper than click-style and also last a lot longer, at the expense of having the bulky scale near the handle end.
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Feb 14, 2016 03:20
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HotCanadianChick posted:Also worth noting that beam-style torque wrenches are cheaper than click-style and also last a lot longer, at the expense of having the bulky scale near the handle end. They're also a lot less flexible in a practical sense what with having no ratcheting function.
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Feb 14, 2016 04:04
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So I had quite the wrenching experience today. And I mean that in both the "working on a mechanical thing" way, and the "emotionally harrowing" way. I was doing the valves on the Hawk and had the top open. Already was kind of pissed off because of getting coolant all over the radiator and the horn (side note: if someone at Honda thinks they can show me how the gently caress you're supposed to pull the cylinder head covers off without disconnecting any water hoses, as the manual suggests, I'd love to see it). I'd finished with the rear cylinder and had just tightened down the last valve on the front one. I reached in with the feeler gauges, twisted my hand around a bit to get it to line up...and felt something bounce off my hand and heard a soft "tiktiktiktink". "Oh, gently caress", I think, "that's never a good noise when you've got an engine open." I realized that the nut on the end of the bolt that holds together the stack of feeler gauges had loosened up and fallen into the engine. A panicked glance didn't spot it anywhere. With a sinking heart, I got a magnet-on-a-stick tool and a flashlight. Started poking around in the casting voids, the spark plug recess, the bottoms of the pools of oil, all over the place. Nothing came up. The only place left for it to go was down the hole where the timing chain comes up into the head...right into the bottom end of the engine. Where the only way to get it out was probably going to be a total engine disassembly. You've got to be loving kidding me. While feeling like poo poo about this, I kept shining the flashlight around, and suddenly glimpsed something silvery and not oil-covered. Could it be?  Can you see it?  Yes! That's the nut! Hallelujah, it's not in the bottom of the engine! How can I get it out? What is it sitting on, exactly? Is it...is that...it can't...holy poo poo. For clarification, here's where it is:  It is literally balanced on the edge of the cam sprocket bolt, leaning against the wall of the casting. If it rolls forwards, it falls into the bottom end. If it rolls backwards, it falls. If it bounces and straightens up, it falls. I can't move the bike, I can't make any sudden movements, I feel like even a large truck rolling by could knock it off. So I thought for a long while about how to solve this. Half ecstatic that the nut hadn't disappeared and I wasn't totally hosed yet. Half terrified that now, if I made a single wrong move, I would be totally hosed and it'd be my own fault. I thought about using a magnet, but the cam sprocket and chain are steel, and if the magnet hit either of those things it could knock the nut out of its perch, game over. A wire? maybe, but the angle to hook the nut is bad and I probably couldn't get it on the first try. If I tapped it when it wasn't hooked, away it goes and I'm hosed. To try and reduce the risk, I wrapped a pair of allen keys together with gaffer's tape, and carefully maneuvered the short end of them underneath the sprocket bolt, making a sort of V-shaped cradle that I hoped would catch the nut if it fell. Then, with the other hand, inserted a piece of thin galvanized wire with a hook at the end. My hands were shaking as I got close...and as soon as I touched the nut, it fell off its perch and...was caught by the allen keys! But now I'm loving stuck, because I can't let go of the allen keys, and the nut's new position has covered up the hole so I can't hook it any more. So, working with only what I had sitting on the gound next to me, I stuck a whole bunch of neodymium magnets onto the end of another 3mm allen key. I tested it on a washer: the allen key was magnetized just enough to pick up something very light, very delicately. Working like a loving bomb squad technician, I very, very, very, very carefully threaded the allen key down to where the nut was sitting on my cradle, delicately touched it, and very, very, very slowly lifted it up to see the nut attached. Moving at about half a millimeter per second, I worked the allen key back out without touching a single thing, and finally after sixty seconds of holding my breath, the nut was clear. I let my breath out in a sigh, and the nut immediately fell off the allen key and bounced on the pavement. So, a happy ending, but let this be a lesson: check all your loving tools for loose nuts and bolts and little hangers-on (especially e.g. a washer stuck to a magnetized screwdriver) every loving time you're working on your bike and there's a potential path open to a Very Bad Place For Little Metal Things. Five seconds of tightening up the nut on the feeler gauges (or better, using a nylok or loctite) could have saved forty minutes of raw terror and dread.
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Feb 14, 2016 07:35
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 Good job on not killing the patient, I hate when poo poo like that happens.
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Feb 14, 2016 08:16
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I always separate the feeler gauges when I'm shoving them in there. I'm not nearly as diligent about blocking the cam chain tunnel as I should be though. Glad you pulled it out without terrible problems. 
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Feb 14, 2016 08:34
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Yeah, me too. I was really not looking forward to taking the bike off the road for like fifty hours of work. It did make me start thinking about what the likely consequence would be of a nut rattling around in the oil pan. Obviously it's a Bad Thing but it's also not as bad as, say, a nut rattling around in a cylinder, or in a turbocharger or something. I imagine it would either get trapped in the bottom of the pan forever, never causing problems, or it would jam the oil pump or the timing chain and cause catastrophic damage.
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Feb 14, 2016 08:39
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re. torque wrenches btw, I will say that although the beam-type ones work fine, it is just so much nicer to have a clicky one with a ratchet. Trying to crane your neck to read a torque value while also pulling on the handle is just such a pain in the rear end. Get a clicky one and dial it in and just pull from where ever is convenient. I have a nice Precision Instruments one that has the side wheel dial, so you don't even have to worry about loosening it up every time you put it away, and it's great. I think I need to pick up a little one for the sub-20 range though.
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Feb 14, 2016 08:41
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Goongrats on your thing not getting into a thing. I have to say though I think the consequences of anything falling down the cam chain tunnel would not be as serious as you suspect. The chains go down to the crank on the left side right behind the flywheel, and the flywheel cover comes off without dropping the engine from the frame. Worst case you might need a flywheel puller but decent chance you'd get to it by just taking the left engine cover off.
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Feb 14, 2016 15:29
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http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7611-24-Inch-Flexible-Magnetic/dp/B000NPR3ZW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1455463158&sr=8-5&keywords=magnet+stick
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Feb 14, 2016 16:20
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I replaced the right crankcase cover on my CBR500R and put in some fresh oil and a new filter. The insides  The old crankcase. The outside has jb weld on it because it leaked a couple drops of oil.   Also got a new fairing, new exhaust heat plate, and a middle fairing to put on still. And the stock exhaust, the twobros is beat to poo poo. Clean the bike up and attempt to sell it soon.
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Feb 14, 2016 19:42
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I had a nightmare that my motorcycle had been stolen and replaced with a lesser, inferior motorcycle in it's place in the garage. In my dream, spring came, and I was all excited to ride. I pulled off the cover and bike was a rusted hunk of crap. So this morning I took a peek under my motorcycle cover. It's still there.  gently caress winter
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Feb 15, 2016 23:20
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Fishvilla posted:gently caress winter Preach on, brother. Hey, I think a while back you mentioned Bob's Java Hut. I've never been there, but I'm in Uptown last weekend, working my way down some side streets to avoid the traffic on 94 (on my way back to Sconnie) and I just happened to hit Lyndale at the Bob's intersection. Is it a good hangout or is it filled with wankers?
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Feb 16, 2016 01:51
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Helped my wife out with dressing some threads. She gorilla-threaded the clutch lever pivot bolt on her BMW after having to replace the lever because it fell over in Sturgis last summer and bent after the side stand sunk into the mud, or it was from when she totally wiped it out in a mud pit, not sure which. Wrong bike for that, lady. Anyhow, she got the new lever on and realized it isn't steel like the old one was. I guess tonight we're putting on some red stainless braided brake lines to replace the ones that exploded on the way home from Sturgis. What is it, February now? God drat she's been neglecting that thing.
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Feb 16, 2016 18:32
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FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:Fredericksburg CL. That's exactly what I was talking about. drat good deal dude. If you had waited a week I was gonna buy it instead of paying off this wedding ring. Sagebrush posted:So I had quite the wrenching experience today. And I mean that in both the "working on a mechanical thing" way, and the "emotionally harrowing" way. Partial Octopus posted:http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7611-24-Inch-Flexible-Magnetic/dp/B000NPR3ZW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1455463158&sr=8-5&keywords=magnet+stick That's probably too fat. Sagebrush, in the future here's what you do: Rip the extending antenna off a radio and the magnet out of a hard drive. Magnetize the gently caress out of the radio antenna by dragging the magnet from hilt to tip across the antenna. or, buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnet...ds=magnet+stick Stick the antenna in right where you're looking in the second picture. You should be able to go straight for the nut without accidentally touching the camchain. I've done the same thing to a few bikes. I even managed to get a cam gear bolt out of the bottom of a CB125 engine with the magnet stick after dropping it in. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Feb 16, 2016 |
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Feb 16, 2016 20:17
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