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KozmoNaut posted:I put on the new handlebars I bought a couple of weeks ago. Pretty easy and quick job, now I just need to get the levers etc. perfectly adjusted. I can't wait to go on a test ride when the weather clears up a bit. Neat. A Tomaselli 233 is the obvious choice for a Bandit-moped. A 284 is the only thing that beats a 233 it for a standard jap. Also, your dads garage is really neat and clean. I'm glad he forced you to clean that dirty bike before he allowed it in there.
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Nov 12, 2011 19:12
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Gnaghi posted:636 is all fixed...more or less. The cam chain was too tight and was supposed to have an extra link, so everything is sorted out there. The "automatic" tensioner is garbage though and proving a nightmare to get perfect, so since I have to wait on a new battery anyway, went ahead and ordered one of these. You did well. I can't figure out why manual tensioners aren't factory standard. The only thing the automatics actually automate is catastrophic mechanical failures.
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Dec 11, 2011 14:55
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Geirskogul posted:I've been spending the past day troubleshooting my friend's drat bike. Sometimes, it seems like older bikes aren't worth it. If you're drat sure it doesn't have a vacuum leak at the intake boots, it sounds like you have very worn or maladjusted needle jets.
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Dec 23, 2011 20:24
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D/P
Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 21:18
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Geirskogul posted:And I was feeling so awesome after 30 minutes on a grinding wheel transforming a 15/16" socket into a clutch hub removal tool (because gently caress paying $40 for a tool I'll use once). Tool worked, brain didn't. Actually more liḱe $5 to just buy the correct socket. Got any pictures of the "warped basket"? In my +30 years of loving around with bike engines as a hobby, I've just never seen such a thing happen - even on track engines. This isn't an attempt to mock you or anything, I'm just really curious. Also I totally fail to understand how it's possible to misalign any friction plates in that clutch. Also did you tighten those clutch bolts by guess or measurement? It should be pretty hard to break off one of the clutch bolt consoles while working within specified torque. I'm not sure you did anything wrong, but gently caress, that's a lot of issues for such a simple task. I'd really like pictures to help me understand the problems you faced.
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Dec 26, 2011 02:04
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Geirskogul posted:Ok, I think I understand what went wrong by now. A bit of patience and the correct tool is often more than half the job. Jesus gently caress. Good job not cutting off a finger while manufacturing that socket. Must have been a bitch and a half. I bought a set of clutch removal tools some years ago, and I didn't pay more than a few bucks per tool. Looks like they're about $20 each on ebay now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=honda+clutch+removal+tool
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Dec 26, 2011 16:02
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Might be the distortion from my wide angle but it's a stock 130 Standard tires on a CB750F are 100/90x19 front and 120/90x18 rear. You can easily go 130 rear, but it's not standard, and you'll probably get a better ride on a 120. 130 looks a lot better though.
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Dec 27, 2011 21:49
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KozmoNaut posted:With a lot of help from my dad. Dads are the best provided that you remember to clean their garage floor afterwards. You did remember to sweep, wash, brush, vacuum and sterilize his garage floor, right?
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Dec 28, 2011 00:57
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Do I have to drain the oil to replace the clutch cover? I assume so, wet clutch and all. I'd actually loosened six of the bolts before I thought better. What's the problem here? Yes, drain the oil. It's a 2 minute job. That'll also give you a visual idea of the state of it. If you think you need to change it, do so. Draining isn't necessarily the same thing as changing it. Also don't listen to any username with the suffix "madman". You don't want to pivot your bike on the sidestand or balancing it with blocks of lumber while working on it. Just drain it. Save the circus show for the circus clowns. Use a new clutch cover gasket, clean the packing surfaces with gasoline and use a manual impact driver to remove the old cover and tightening the new (take it easy here and follow the tightening order) - use JIS bits with the impact driver. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Jan 14, 2012 |
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Jan 14, 2012 15:32
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_Dav posted:No. I agree, it's all about 1, 2, 3 or 6 cylinder naked bikes. .
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Feb 3, 2012 21:31
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Personally I prefer pods, even if they make it a bit harder to sync the carbs. The only downside is you really can't ride in heavy rain. I ruined the 77 cb750k doing that. It's perfectly doable to jet and synchronize carburetors equipped with pod filters, if you know what you're doing. It's sometimes a painful task, but it's manageable. I've never heard about anyone having problems in heavy rain, but it's possible, I guess. The real problem with pod filters is that you remove the rear support for your for your carburetors, and 99% of all installs I've seen doesn't address this problem. If you install pod filters you MUST get creative and fix some support between the engine and the carburetor block. Without this you will destroy your intake boots and, more important, introduce a tsunami-like effect in your float bowls. A stable float level is much more important for correct carburetor operation than most people recognize.
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Feb 12, 2012 12:25
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titanium posted:Fender (not actually installed just fitted in the pic), Tank, Risers, Bar, Seat, rear grip, light, and plate mount will all be moved to the new bike. That frame is ridiculously weak. I like the concept of the bike though. titanium posted:Nazis think using a dremel to add a coolant passage and letting the metal shavings fall into the crank case is an okay thing to do. I know African, Jewish and Asian fellows that thinks it's o.k. too, bro.
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Feb 17, 2012 17:45
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AncientTV posted:- I had planned on switching my coolant to water anyways, but doubly so now that I've learned that it's actually more efficient at keeping the engine cool, as well as being less messy. One new thing to learn might be that antifreeze contains active corrosion inhibitors and, depending on brand and method, some nice stuff that actually helps your seals and gaskets not drying out and cracking. Running pure water is pretty goddamn stupid on a bike you don't plan to take apart after each drive. You've also been lied to. Pure water will definitely be more efficient at cooling than water mixed with antifreeze. It's just not a brilliant idea for the above reasons. Running pure water is for racing, since antifreeze is some nasty slippery poo poo to get on the track if you happen to do a Mootmoot. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Feb 26, 2012 |
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Feb 26, 2012 02:48
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Z3n posted:Drop some water wetter in there if you're concerned about losing lubricating/etc properties. The Norse Gods demands that you shut the gently caress up. We can't all live in California. But you're right.
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Feb 26, 2012 03:03
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Cornelius please don't ever change. If you were ever forced to read some Charles Dickens, you'd know that I'm not the one to change. Cast is: The Ghost of Christmas Past: Cornelius, Sir The Ghost of Christmas Present: Mootmoot The Ghost of Christmas Yet to Come: Z3n Ebenezer Scrooge: You
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Feb 26, 2012 03:42
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AncientTV posted:I live in Florida, so it's much of the same weather. Fine, then I can hate both of you equally.
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Feb 26, 2012 04:00
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Z3n posted:there are no corners in Florida! Does Mootmoot know about this?
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Feb 26, 2012 05:40
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I'm out of chain lube, any recommendations? Just wipe it clean in cheap 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil.
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Mar 4, 2012 21:46
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Are you serious? I have some 10w40 in the garage, but I'm not sure I like the idea of it slinging engine oil all over the place. How often do I lube it if I use 10w40? I'm totally serious. You really don't want to lubricate a modern X- or O-ring chain. The key is to keep it clean. 10w40 won't damage your rings but will dissolve road grit. Just wipe it clean and dry.
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Mar 4, 2012 21:54
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slidebite posted:Polyamide is a polymer, yes. You can talk Paraphenylenediamine without having to talk bearings. Just got the new construction catalog from SKF
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Mar 9, 2012 07:08
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KozmoNaut posted:My bike ('96 GSF600) is 11.3:1 and the factory manual specifies at least 91 RON. That would be 87 AKI and I don't think you can get much lower than that in most parts of the world these days. That's because compression ratio is only half of the equation. Ignition timing.
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Mar 10, 2012 01:03
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Sagebrush posted:What phenomenon could make that happen? Why would premium gas actually decrease your mileage? Because premium gas is more detonation resistant. Lower octane means that your gas detonates at lower compression. Edit: What Mr. Zig says.
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Mar 12, 2012 19:26
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Sagebrush posted:Huh, I had no idea that there was actually less energy per volume in premium gas. There isn't. Octane rating doesn't relate to energy content of the fuel. It's a measurement of the tendency to burn controlled (no detonation).
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Mar 12, 2012 19:44
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Sagebrush posted:Ah, that makes a lot of sense, then. I wasn't aware that the octane rating affects the burn rate as well as the point of ignition. So theoretically if you advanced the ignition timing (and messed with the intake and exhaust too, I guess) you could get just as much power running premium in your low-comp engine as you would with regular? Let me blow your mind and tell you that there's no significant difference in the speed of the flame front travel between high and low octane fuel. If you really want to understand this, focus on compression ratio and ignition timing. Think of it as how much compression the air/fuel mixture can manage before it detonates rather than burns/combusts when ignited.
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Mar 12, 2012 21:46
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Odette posted:Manual for my bike says 91 RON, I used 98 RON for a while before trying out 91 RON. If you do this for fun and giggles, I'd recommend that you go a grade hotter in sparkplugs and advance your ignition timing a bit for 98 RON. But yeah, you wasted your money.
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Mar 12, 2012 22:07
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Sagebrush posted:ReelBigLizard says that high-octane fuel burns more slowly as well as being more resistant to detonation. ReelBigLizard is kind of wrong then. High octane fuel combusts almost as fast as low octane. High octane can be compressed more before ignition and wont detonate instead of combust. Lower octane fuel would detonate given same environment. Does that explain it?
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Mar 12, 2012 22:41
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Sagebrush posted:Today I scrubbed enormous amounts of dirt and grease out of the clutch actuator and cleaned the parts themselves in paint thinner. That explains it  Sagebrush posted:the fuel should never ignite under compression, only when the spark fires. I'm the one that's confused now. We didn't talk diesels, did we? Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Mar 12, 2012 |
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Mar 12, 2012 22:59
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Sagebrush posted:Paint thinner does an excellent job of dissolving grease, though. Then hit it with regular dishsoap to clean off the scum and you're golden. Your brain is mostly fat and grease. Please take care. I've had some close relatives that didn't, and the result weren't appealing.
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Mar 12, 2012 23:08
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Sagebrush posted:Stripped all the damaged paint off the gas tank -- chemical stripper really is mindblowing. It's like xenomorph blood or something There are options like clear powdercoat and 2-component automotive clearcoats, but they'll both flake off in a few years depending on your climate. I think that's part of the reason people invented chrome plating and zinc coating for bare metal looks.
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Mar 25, 2012 10:59
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orthod0ks posted:Yea, kick starters should be stock on every bike. Won't help you on any modern bike larger than 125 cc, if it's got a dead battery.
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Mar 30, 2012 18:05
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Ziploc posted:My car has an ECU and fuel injection and I can still bump start it from dead... Try this without the battery mounted.
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Mar 30, 2012 21:33
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M4rg4r1ne posted:It turns out my Vento Triton had no spark because of a bad stator. Check the capacitor.
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Apr 1, 2012 11:08
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mootmoot posted:Looking real good without spike-bolts. I think, I could ride that thing without feeling too homosexual. Good job.
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Apr 2, 2012 16:18
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SaNChEzZ posted:I installed a new horn. That's brilliant. Now I want one. Do they come in pink?
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Apr 4, 2012 07:16
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Ziploc posted:How long did that take? 15 minutes. Or so.... O.K. Official Suzuki dealer estimate is 4 hours sharp. I guess we used about 5 or so including beer and pizza. Could probably be done in less than 2h. now that we figured it out. Working alone I think I could do it in 1.5h if I leave out beer and pizza. Kozmonauts Bandit is a naked though - might add half an hour if it wasn't. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Apr 22, 2012 |
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Apr 22, 2012 18:18
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Gnaghi posted:So the valves were way out of spec and the bike still started and ran normally? drat I should get a bandit one day. I can confirm that none of the valves had any clearance at all, and that Kosmonaut drove it here. It sounded pretty O.K. I had no idea about the horror that awaited. Another really beautiful thing about a Bandit 600/1200 is that the valve-cover gasket is a giant O-ring and totally reusable if you clean it. Combined with screw-adjusters and no shim-fuckery makes the total investment in valve-adjustment $0.
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Apr 22, 2012 21:08
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Ziploc posted:How hard is it to torque the adjuster nuts properly? I only have a normal sized torque wrench and I'm not sure I'd trust it on those little nuts. You won't have to worry about timing chain adjustment at all, since you won't have to touch it while working on Suzuki Bandit screw type adjusters. The torque on the 8mm nuts is by feeling. A normal open 8mm. wrench will do. Just use a lock type wrench to hold the upper square part of the vent-rod while you tighten the nut down. Just a few degrees misalignment from your original measurement will through it way off. Then it's loosen and repeat. drat Mr. Kosmonaut. My prize for learning him how to do this was that he educated you 
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Apr 27, 2012 18:53
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Ziploc posted:I forget, how do you get the cams in the right position? For turning the cams you just remove the cover for the crank positioning sensor. It's on the right side if you sit on the bike. I think it's 4 or so 5mm inner hex screws. They shouldn't be too tight. The cover shouldn't contain any oil, so just relax. You can reuse the gasket a few times if you're careful. That'll give you free access to turn the crank/the cams with a 19mm. open wrench (or 17mm., maybe, check it, my memory is about as old as I am). Turn it, BUT remove the sparkplugs before you do so, or you'll probably smack the cam sensor more than it likes. And oh yeah, place the gearbox in neutral You shouldn't have any reason to maintain the chain tensioner unless you have to do a general rebuild. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Apr 28, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 21:30
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MotoMind posted:Stuff a plastic bag in the cam chain tunnel, but leave some sticking out so you can remove it easily and don't forget it in there. That's generally a pretty good advice. It's not really needed here though, since you don't have to gently caress around with shims and poo poo on that bike. The only thing at risk for being dropped down there would be an 8mm. wrench or a beer capsule. An 8mm wrench won't fit in there, but a beer capsule might. Drinking canned beer while performing the art will probably keep you just as safe as the plastic bag trick. There's no way you can brute-force a beer-can down the cam chain tunnel.... I think. drat, I might have to test that.
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Apr 28, 2012 10:15
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I failed inspection for a "missing cotter pin" The cotter pin you miss goes in the right side, through the hole in the axle and between the cut-outs of the nut.
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May 6, 2012 09:17
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