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M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Finally decided to lower my bike a couple inches and replaced the rear brake pads, which were squealing like mad and definitely well past the point of "time to replace your brake pads." Thanks for that Previous Owner. He'd also apparently tried to put some lowering links on there, but as far as I can tell hadn't actually used them to lower the bike at all, and they were poorly made so the holes weren't the right size to fit the bolts so they were a bitch and a half to actually get off the bike and replace with proper ones.

Bike feels a lot better now that it's lower though. Now I just need to adjust the sag back to where it's appropriate for my weight instead of at the minimum pre-set and it should be good to go.

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M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Did my valve check today that was like 1k overdue. Everything was within spec but all 4 exhaust valves are right at the bottom of the range, and one of them took quite a bit of pressure to get the feeler in for even that. I went ahead and buttoned everything back up again because I didn't want to take off the radiator and didn't think I'd be able to do an adjustment comfortably with it on there. I assume if it's within spec it's OK since that's the reason there's a spec, but should I plan to go back in the winter and adjust my exhaust valves or just leave it until the next interval?

It's a 2005 SV650s with 30k miles and they all measured 0.008 inches where the spec is 0.008 to 0.012 inches. I also changed the spark plugs but the old plug on the front cylinder had a lot of rust on it, is that just the previous owner failing to correctly orient the plug caps so they're water proof? The bike seems to be running fine and it's garaged(now)/I haven't taken it out in the rain yet. Going to clean up the K&N air filter and change the oil tomorrow then I should be good to go for the season I hope aside from chain maintenance.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Z3n posted:

I'm pretty sure you can do a valve adjustment without pulling the radiator, although i haven't done a gen 2 recently. I'd go back and adjust the valves because that one that is too tight is going to become a problem over the next few thousand miles. If you're forcing the feeler in there, it's tighter than the feeler measurement.

Definitely could, but this is my first time messing with any of this on a bike and it was cramped enough trying to get the measurements done, just feel a lot more comfortable if I had more room to see what's going on once I start messing with my cams. I'll set aside some time to do the adjustments pretty soon then.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Swapped out my rearsets for some Danmoto ones I bought. They seemed solid to me but I don't have anything to compare them to other than my somewhat bent and poorly adjusted stock rearsets. I'm happy with them for what I paid, everything works and they feel solid, and I prefer the new position of the pegs to the stock position. Installation was lengthy but that's mostly because I'm still new to this whole working on bikes thing.

Went for a test ride afterwards to a comic store for free comic book day, was complimented on my awesome costume while I was waiting to check out with all my gear on. :shobon:

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Synced my throttle valves today. I think of everything I've done to my bike so far this is easily the most noticeable difference. I was hoping that adjusting my exhaust valves would be noticeable but I couldn't really tell after it was done, this made everything feel a lot smoother and the bike's more comfortable to ride. It's an SV650 so it's not like there's no vibration but I think the throttle valves must have badly needed this because there's noticeably less vibration in the seat/pegs now.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Lynza posted:

Has anyone had any experience with the turn-signal mirror combos? They're pretty cheap, which makes me think they might be shoddy.

I tried them on my SV650 and the quality was really bad. Could barely see the signal during the day and the mirrors were awful and one of them eventually broke itself off from the wind pushing on it.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

kuffs posted:

I finished getting the F4i ready for the track next weekend.

* Bled the front brakes
* Tried to find the best compromise for cable routing and steering range with the aftermarket clipons. With all the loving around I do on the cabling, I feel like I should probably just order the stock risers and run those.
* Did babby's first safety wiring job on the oil drain plug and filter. This track group doesn't require it, but it will give me peace of mind.
* Put all the bodywork back on.
* Fired it up and rev'd it a few times before realizing it was 10PM and I was probably pissing my neighbors off.

Finished getting the SV650 ready for the track this weekend.

* Raised the front and rear back to stock height
* Adjusted the chain
* Changed out the front brake pads
* Bedded in the pads / Rode it around to make sure everything was OK after changing the height
* Changed the oil
* Freehand drilled my drain bolt for safety wire

Ready to go ride around a track in the rain :saddowns:

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Sheared a bolt in my shifter linkage, ending my first track day about half-way through. The first half was pretty awesome though and the failure didn't have any consequences other then making me pit out and end my day. Spending the rest of the day shuttling bikes was a pain in the rear end though, clearly need to work on our track day prep and routine.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

BlackMK4 posted:

drat, dude. I bet if you asked around someone could have gotten you running again.

I asked around and couldn't find anyone with a spare shift rod, we tried to scavenge one from my friend's CBR600 that was having fueling issues but it didn't work out. I got half a track-day out of it and the organization charges 50% for your first time so I guess I got my money's worth :v:. We did sort of work out a way to fix it but it would have taken so long I might have gotten 1 more session at best assuming nothing went wrong with our bodge attempt. Gonna chalk it up to a lesson in using a rearset with easily interchangeable parts and not some cheap poo poo.

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M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Sagebrush posted:

I've done that to probably 80% of all the oil filters I've ever removed.

Fram filters are supposedly crap :can: but I used to use them, and I love that they dip the end of the can in rhino-liner so that it's all grippy. I don't know why more manufacturers haven't picked that up. K&N welds a nut on the end but I can't bring myself to pay the ricer tax.

Worth every penny to avoid that one time the screw driver rips clear through the oil filter and now you have a nub stuck on there that's even harder to grab.

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