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Installed my new shorty levers today: 
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Mar 19, 2014 01:12
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 15:26 |
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Or in my case, they just fit my hand better and ensure more consistent feel/engagement of the levers. The stock levers were so long I could fit 8 fingers across them and if I moved my hand off the bar (particularly left hand, to flip up or down my visor), had to be especially careful to make sure my hand was on the same section of lever when I put my hand back on the grip, lest I change the amount of fulcrum I had. The new levers are still 3-4 finger levers for me, and now my fingers are consistently falling in the same place on the lever each time I put my hand on the bar.
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Mar 19, 2014 02:30
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SaNChEzZ posted:Welcome to the best riding state* *worst everything else.
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Apr 8, 2014 08:25
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Slavvy posted:have none of the tools you really need and it's 7pm on a sunday. This has happened to me before, when I went to change the timing belt on my former civic, using a friend's garage. Had half the engine bay disassembled and radiator drained for doing the water pump and hoses as well, only to realize that you cannot get the timing belt cover off without removing the crank pulley, which requires a special tool to remove since honda doesn't feel the need to make their car engines rotate clockwise like all other automakers. At 5:04 pm on Saturday, when napa closes at 5pm. Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 03:33
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Slavvy posted:They make their engines rotate like bike engines, it's a hold over from Ye Olden Dayes. Mine cost me $12 at Napa. Suzuki and Yamaha both manage to build car engines that spin the right way, so there's really no excuse for Honda being a special snowflake. 
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Apr 17, 2014 05:11
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McTinkerson posted:Sold my XS500 project for a couple $$$ profit so I can buy my brothers naked Goldwing and thus help him out financially with going back to school. Time to start reading up on GL1100's. Sup soon-to-be-fellow-Goldwing owner? I just drove down to take a look at a 1978 GL1000 a good buddy of mine picked up for $500, he was going to clean it up and resell it for profit, but he's passing it on to me for what he paid for it. Other than being dirty and needing some cosmetic work (notably new side covers), the only major issues are that it needs new tires, the wiring is a rats nest of poorly bodged together hacks from the PO that I'll be tearing out and redoing much more cleanly, the clutch is starting to slip (he already has a new clutch kit included with it, ready to be installed), and the choke cable is frozen and will probably need replacing (and the carbs should probably be cleaned just as general principle). Once it's warmed up, it starts immediately and idles well, revs freely, pulls good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qh0EKR0sAWI  The lovely K&Q seat and half-assed wannabe clipons are a disaster, but he's got the original seat, bars, and an extra set of low rise bars for it, so those'll go on there once I get it home and start tearing into it. Post pics once you get it from your brother!
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Apr 28, 2014 07:47
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I'm going to be doing the opposite here shortly, and going from a modern, EFI, reasonably well sorted bike to the height of 1970s technology when my buddy brings over the Goldwing I'm getting from him this Wednesday. Will post a trip report on how hilariously archaic it feels once I get it cleaned up enough to ride on the street, maybe do some direct A/B testing between the two. Last time I rode a bike this old was the ancient husky we had on my granddad's farm as a kid.
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May 6, 2014 08:46
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McTinkerson posted:I bought a thing! Looks great, if you want to compare different types of vinyl to see what looks best on the bike, metrorestyling.com sells 3*5" samples of all their stuff for $.99 per sample. I just got a dozen samples from them earlier this week to pick one out for the '78 wing I'm supposed to pick up tomorrow. What year is yours?
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May 8, 2014 03:39
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Welp, I've bought a thing: First order of business was the choke cable was completely seized up, sprayed some penetrating oil down past the (rotted out) rubber seal and managed to get it unstuck enough to get the bike started under it's own power. Good news is the electricals look good, solid 13v even when (barely) idling at 1k rpm, shoots right up to 14v and holds steady once the bike warms up enough to smooth out the idle. The idle is rough and it dies is you give it any throttle, so combined with the hard starting, I'm guessing the carbs are packed with varnish and need sorting out. First order of business is going to be replacing the choke cable with a new one, and getting a carb rebuild kit from Randakk's and cleaning and syncing the motherfuckers, then I get to go through the shitshow the POs made of the wiring and replace it all with new watertight connectors and proper length wires.
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May 8, 2014 22:19
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M42 posted:Those seats look madddd comfy. What are the gauges on the tank? Temp, Fuel, and Voltage. Seat's getting binned in favour of the stock seat though, just need to reupholster it.
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May 9, 2014 00:35
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Sagebrush posted:I really hate the look of k/q seats but I have to admit that looks like a supremely comfortable way to eat up several hundred miles at a go. Is an iron butt rally in your future? The one on mine is pretty cushy, but it just looks so terrible I can't leave it on. A reupholstered stock seat will do for me for now, but eventually I'd like a nice Corbin or similar. Bonus: took a video of it running earlier, but haven't had time to upload it until now: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex0u5ZEFhFk Runs and idles like poo poo until it gets warm, and the idle wanders all over the place; around the 2:30-3:00 mark when the idle goes up and then down, I wasn't touching the throttle, it was just jumping around between ~1500 rpm and ~2500 rpm on it's own. Smooths out a lot more as it warms up, but oooooh yeah, I bet the insides of those carbs are filthy. Also gotta verify that the ignition system is all in order, upgrading to a transistor ignition is one of my big priorities (because I don't have a dwell meter and I'm not going to buy one to deal with points ignition when I can buy a brand new electronic ignition box for not too much coin). Also, digging around in the box of stuff that came with the bike:  Original 1978 owner's manual and toolkit, yay! KARMA! posted:Goldwings are the best dad bike, congrats! Thanks!
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May 9, 2014 09:09
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Started in on cleaning up the oldwing, tried out the aluminium foil trick to clean up the rust on the chrome gauge surrounds, actually worked impressively well: Before:  After:  Won't be a permanent fix, probably either spray them matte black or wrap them with chrome or patterned wrap, but for now they look a lot better. Also removed the seized up choke cable and tried starting it with the choke linkage held open with my finger and it fired right up first try on a completely cold engine... beginning to think I won't have to tear the carbs apart just yet, it was idling smooth and easy as long as I held the choke open, not nearly as bad as it was before when I was trying to get it going with no choke. Also removed the crappy clubman bars the PO had put on there and discovered some fun surprises, first the clutch switch is frayed off and no longer connected, second I found this:  Anyone see what's wrong in that pic? The push cable from the throttle is just zip tied to the bar, not actually attached to the throttle assembly. Only the pull cable was actually hooked up. There were also at least a dozen zip ties all over that poo poo, I cut them all off and will be replacing them with proper cable stays.
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May 12, 2014 08:08
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Safety Dance posted:Sounds suspiciously like you're compensating for clogged pilot jets. Try seafoam, but you might not be out of the carb woods yet. Considering the night and day difference between holding the choke linkage open with my finger and not having any choke at all, and the fact that it idles fine with no choke once warm, maybe, maybe not. This was on a completely cold engine (more than 24 hrs since last ran); you have to give it some choke at startup before it warms up (I did not run it long enough for it to get warm, but previous times starting and running it it has smoothed out once warm)- fuel does not atomize well in cold air (it tends to form big droplets instead of a fine mist), so you need to add more fuel to provide sufficient surface area for enough vapor evaporation to occur so that the spark can set off the fuel. Even EFI engines use a cold duty cycle when freshly started to dump additional fuel, some do it with a cold start injector, some do it with a longer duty cycle on the main injectors. The choke is the cold start cycle for a carbureted engine.
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May 12, 2014 18:38
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To be fair, an EBR toaster wouldn't have knobs that randomly fall off and doesn't need an oil change after every slice of toast. However, it does use specially designed heating filaments that completely surround the outside of the slice and can only be ordered NOS from shady third party Internet dealers.
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May 13, 2014 03:50
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Slavvy posted:That can looks so...monolithic. It's surprisingly loud for a stock can too. Mine's louder than the Yoshi slipon my coworker's VFR800 has. Also, this makes, what, 3? 4? FZ1 riders here now? Goongrats on the new bike, Crayvex.
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May 15, 2014 09:04
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Crayvex posted:I absolutely love it. This was the bike that I both wanted and needed. What's the Goon consensus on hard luggage for these things? $$$$ Givi makes racks and cases, and SW-Motech makes racks to mount a bunch of other brands (including Pelican), but either way you're spending around $800-1000 for racks plus side and tail cases. Post pics when you get them, it's the dirty little secret that the FZ1 is one of the best small touring bikes out there for the money. They'll eat thousands and thousands of highway miles like nothing.
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May 15, 2014 17:55
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I've never had problems with a filter I've installed being stuck to the point where I had to resort to a screwdriver through the filter, but I have with filters others (loving Jiffy Lube  ) have put on. I've always done the following: 1) apply some fresh oil to the gasket with my finger before installing. 2) hand-tighten just until decently snug; never try to crank it on with all your strength. 3) use a strap-wrench to remove it. Or an old leather belt if you're too cheap to spend $10 on a pair of cheap strap-wrenches at Harbor Freight. The factory-brand filters for my bike are made with a crown shaped for a special Yamaha filter wrench socket, but with the filter being tucked behind the headers, it's easier to get it from the side with a strap-wrench than it is to fit the bulky filter socket and breaker bar in the one-inch gap between the filter and the headers. It'd be similarly hard to get at the hex nut on top of a K&N filter.
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May 26, 2014 17:43
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Finished cleaning, wire-wheeling, and repainting the gauge trim and brackets on the 'oldwing. Took everything apart and cleaned off all the rust I could find, sprayed the bracket down with rust-preventative primer and then a couple coats of black enamel, and hit the chrome trim on the gauges with a 'black chrome' two-step spray kit mainly to seal the formerly rusty spots from the elements and keep them from re-rusting. Looks decent, for a rattlecan job, but most importantly it covered everything with several layers of translucent and clearcoat paints to keep water from getting to the pinholes in the chrome. Also fabricated new brackets up to fit the new rear turn signals on, and got those wired in with new marine-grade watertight connectors and heat-shrink on everything. Blinkers still not blinking, so next step after getting the fronts wired up and testing again will probably be replacing the (possibly broken) flasher that's in there now. Could also be the new lights not drawing enough load to trip it (I went with incandescent bulbs, but it may not like that there's only the rears currently hooked up). Got the new choke cable installed and reinstalled the throttle push cable that the DSPO had zip tied to the handlebars, let the bowls on the carb fill up, and fired it up pretty easy., though the idle still wanders a bit, so a good carb cleaning and checking all the seals and lines is still on the agenda.
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May 27, 2014 07:00
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Cleaned the huge blob of poo poo some passing pterodactyl-sized goose decided to drop with pinpoint accuracy right on top of my seat before I headed home from work.
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Jun 12, 2014 08:18
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Top tip - keep one of those little packs of antiseptic hand wipes (or screen wipes if you can swipe some from work) in your jacket/bag for that sort of situation, and also for removing dead bugs from your visor. I have some in a ziploc bag in my underseat storage, but this was such a big splat I had to go in and fill my water bottle up to hose it off first. It was seriously a huge glob of poo poo, like 6-7cm across and maybe 1cm tall. Never seen that much bird poo poo in my life.
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Jun 12, 2014 08:59
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Started cleaning up the wiring on the Goldwing, the PO had a lead over a foot and a half long from the positive lead on the battery to the starter relay... which is about three inches from the positive lead  . Looks like he took a generic off-the-shelf battery cable and used it as-is, rather than trimming it to the right length and crimping on a lead.Also installed a new flasher relay and now the turn signals work! Was hoping that was the problem, glad it was as easy as replacing the relay. Started tearing apart the trailer hitch connectors the PO had spliced into the factory wiring near the head, he has all sorts of weird poo poo routed through the connectors - low and high headlight beam (the headlight is already hooked up and working from the factory - this is just an extra set of wires spliced into the headlight wiring), switched 12v, non-switched 12v, both the front turn signals (which were both missing), and a ground. Ripped out half of it, trying to get the wiring as close as I can back to factory routing, all these half assed splices wrapped in electrical tape are just shorts and intermittent electrical gremlins waiting to happen.
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Jun 16, 2014 09:24
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:woot: New side covers showed up today! Finally found someone selling the left (battery) side cover, which normally goes for $120+ together with the (much easier to find) right side cover (typically around $40-50 on it's own) for $127; score! Just showed up tonight, great condition with no chips or cracks:  (the left side one, which is the one I was really worried about replacing)Both of them are nice, even the emblems look better than the ones I already had.
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Jun 20, 2014 04:31
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I'm waiting for the next post where you either get a fix-it ticket for not having DOT-compliant signals, or you get hit by a car because they can't see your signals from the side. (DOT requires all turn signals to be visible from 90 degrees off-axis to the front/rear of the vehicle, those are unsafe and not legal. The only good LED signals are the ones that properly have diodes that aim to the sides as well as forward/backward.)
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Jun 29, 2014 09:03
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Lynza posted:I made myself a "butt pad" out of an old sheepskin I had and some elastic and thread and stuff. I think it came out pretty well! Cheaper than the ~$80 to buy one. I figure if I hate it, I'll try the bead rider option. I'll have to keep my eyes open for a sheepskin seated Kawi around town now.
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Jul 15, 2014 08:52
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Slavvy posted:My mate once had a corolla where the ignition barrel was so worn, any key from any Toyota would start the car. Eventually he just started using a screwdriver. I took my AE86 to an AE86 meet once and most of the attendees' keys would open/start most of the cars there.
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Aug 7, 2014 03:19
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SaNChEzZ posted:This is all old toyotas. The keys are pretty interchangeable. I have an 83 supra, who's key is so old and worn that I haven't encountered an old toyota it wouldn't unlock and start. I once saw a guy that worked at the rental car place next to my old office trying to jimmy the lock of his 81 corolla with a coat hanger, I walked up, unlocked his door, waved him off and walked away This is, oddly, not my experience: at the time I had my 1986 Corolla GT-S, for a while I also had a 1985 MR2 and a 1987 Supra Turbo, and none of their keys would work in each other's locks, likely because each of the three appeared to use different blanks. Might be those years were just new enough that they'd finally started using more than one model of tumblers/keys across their lineup.
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Aug 7, 2014 21:20
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Marv Hushman posted:this 100HP love removal machine. The Cult is British, please only reference them when referring to Triumphs or Nortons, thank you. 
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Aug 8, 2014 09:47
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Been painting the cover panels off the Goldwing: Wet sanding after each coat, probably going to do one more color coat, polish, then do a couple layers of clear.
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Aug 27, 2014 22:09
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clutchpuck posted:What kind of paint? Only the finest Ford Sonic Blue Mica rattlecans from Autozone. 
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Aug 29, 2014 00:21
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Finally got around to doing the clear coats on my Goldwing's plastics:  Pretty decent for a rattlecan job, I think.
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Sep 8, 2014 08:11
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I've used duct tape and a clean shop rag before, when I nearly took the tip of my index finger off. Kept me from dripping everywhere while I drove to the store to get some gauze and antiseptics so I could properly bandage it.
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Sep 11, 2014 18:49
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Someone's never tried Blanton's.
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Sep 12, 2014 03:20
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nsaP posted:Most of your posts are annoying but that one just made me physically mad. And also sad for your kiwi palette. He's of Eastern European descent, the only flavours he finds acceptable are the oily taste of cheap vodka and bleak bitterness of oppression.
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Sep 12, 2014 05:36
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Slavvy posted:I've tasted what Americans refer to as 'beer'. http://www.beeradvocate.com/place/city/16/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brewing_in_Oregon http://www.travelportland.com/article/portland-breweries/ http://oregoncraftbeer.org/breweries/portland-area/ We have more breweries here than any other city on earth (we eclipsed Munich years ago), and also the largest craft brewing festival on the continent, and our beers win more gold medals at international beer competitions than any other place on the planet. Notable is local brewer Hair Of The Dog, many of whose beers range from 10% alcohol to 29% alcohol. Sorry you aren't man enough for American beer*  *(sorry none of the good beers get exported, the only American beers that ever get exported overseas are the garbage even we don't like.  )
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Sep 12, 2014 19:07
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goddamnedtwisto posted:So is literally every other pleasurable thing on Earth. Are your palms hairy or have you gone blind? I rest my case.
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Sep 14, 2014 02:40
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Trying to imagine how that's possible. Italians.
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Oct 7, 2014 05:00
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Farkles: not even once.
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Nov 11, 2014 17:17
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Did someone sneeze near the dyno during the measurement?
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Jan 25, 2015 04:31
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Installed a new battery. Original was a Yuasa YTZ14S that everywhere I looked wanted $150+ for (Amazon wants $151 for it, http://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM72Z14-YTZ14S-Battery/dp/B0024VFY86, http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/yuasa-ytz14s-factory-activated-agm-high-performance-battery, etc. Cycle Gear wants $207 for it. ). Picked one up at the Yamaha shop a couple blocks away that I'd never been to before. They sold it to me for $99. Yay!  Rode my bike to work on Friday, took a half second longer to crank than usual, which should have tipped me off that the battery was going out, rode it to work, and that night when I went out to ride home, turned the key on, lights came up as normal, but the starter would barely spin once or twice before stuttering out. Was lucky enough to get a push start from another rider and rode it home. The battery's been in there for at least three years (same battery that was in it when I bought the bike), and I'm guessing the sub 50F temps it was sitting in Friday night were enough to push it over the edge. I've intermittently hooked it up to my big battery charger over the past two winters when I wasn't riding as often, but it's a hassle to hook it up all the time since the charger is a full size one and only has clamps on the end of the cable and requires me pulling the seat off and removing the battery to get the clamps onto the terminals. My Bike's PO had a battery tender pigtail already installed, but I didn't have a tender that could plug into it, so I also went today and picked up a Battery Tender Jr. so that it'll be easier to keep it plugged in consistently. Bonus is that the pigtail that came with the Battery Tender can now go on my Goldwing so both bikes can be plugged in as needed.
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Feb 16, 2015 23:28
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 15:26 |
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If you live anywhere near Portland, I could weld a new footpeg on there for you, wouldn't take more than a few minutes. In related news, I fabbed up one of a pair of front stands for my fizzer so I can yank the forks off and install new seals and fresh oil. There's small lugs on the front of the engine case on both sides, so I'm making a pair of stands to prop it up at the front when it's on the center stand.  And here is where the peg hooks in to support the bike:  Just need to weld up the second one for the other side tomorrow. Not pretty, but they don't really have to be.
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Mar 26, 2015 05:59
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