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Been following, not really much I can say that would add to the already overwhelming admiration you've been getting. Just thought I pop in to say you could probably have a body shop or "paint guy" look at a can of 7272 and they could probably get the actual Ditzler paint code and have it mixed. They could also scan the blue from the cab and mix that as well.
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Aug 24, 2009 02:56
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Mooecow posted:I tested the paint disc on a rusty area of the cab, and this is what happened: I used a braided wire brush cup on my rust-pitted metal parts, it works pretty well.  Granted, this is thicker material, but you can get the same results if you're gentle and don't stay in one area too long. But, if you have access to a media blaster, definitely do that instead. Wire wheel / cupping is tough going. And yeah, primer as soon as possible.
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Aug 24, 2009 02:57
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It's expensive but after all the work that's going to have gone into this truck I'd be tempted to find a place to ED coat the cab. That's the olive-drab rust prevention coating all new cars get coated with before they see paint. They basically submerge the body in it, so it's pretty specialist work, but new cars get like 10-year anti-corrosion warranties off this stuff now.
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Aug 24, 2009 17:24
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Mooecow posted:
Hey did you add some drain holes after this? If not, you're gonna need to, even if the only water the thing sees is when you wash it. Water always finds its way in there, factory drain holes getting clogged is a big reason doors rust out at the bottom in the first place. And I concur with everyone else, I think the extra work involved in killing all the cab rust will be something you're glad you did once it's done.
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Aug 24, 2009 19:14
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LloydDobler posted:Hey did you add some drain holes after this? If not, you're gonna need to, even if the only water the thing sees is when you wash it. Water always finds its way in there, factory drain holes getting clogged is a big reason doors rust out at the bottom in the first place. There are factory drain holes on the outer skin of the door, so I am all set there. Oddly enough though, they weren't clogged at all and yet the bottoms were rusty as hell. Since the cab is pretty much ready I started working on the fenders. The passenger front fender needed a small patch in the bottom corner and was otherwise in great shape. The passenger rear has a few more dents I am going to have to hammer out. Of course after I learn the proper technique for hammering out dents without ruining the panel in the process. The drivers side panels are more interesting. I will hopefully be able to save the front fender. Problem being though, the curve the swoops from the hood to above the headlight is different from the passenger side. The curve isn't as high or as steep as the passenger side. I didn't notice until it was pointed out to me a week ago, so it must not be too obvious. Once you know it's there though, it is apparent. The rear fender will be getting scrapped. It is dented and twisted beyond repair.  I have been toying with the idea of painting the truck myself, but after reading through daslog's Cadillac thread I am not too sure. But given I don't even have a compressor I am pretty much out of luck anyway. Yay, dealing with paint shops. 
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Aug 26, 2009 02:37
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The correct method of fixing old sheetmetal involves using a Oxy to "Shrink " the metal. Believe ot or not , That rear guard is easily fixable.
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Aug 26, 2009 03:05
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Roll the paint on. Normally I'd caution you on the tedious amount of work involved but, well, I've been following your thread.
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Aug 26, 2009 03:05
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Maaco does a decent job if you prep the rig for them.
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Aug 27, 2009 04:34
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Kaptainballistik posted:Believe ot or not , That rear guard is easily fixable. I agree, it doesn't look too bad at all.
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Aug 29, 2009 04:46
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PainterofCrap posted:Maaco does a decent job if you prep the rig for them. Yeah, but at that point you've done every bit of the work, and you might as well do the easy part as well.
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Aug 29, 2009 17:46
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Well I had a different body guy stop by and look at the truck. He wasn't nearly as much of a perfectionist, which given I want a driver not a show truck, was a good thing. On the flip side, he said he would give me a quote yesterday, but I have yet to hear back from him. This seems to be a common theme unfortunately. If this keeps up I am toying with the idea of buying something like this and trying to do it myself. I figure if it comes out wavy I could just sand it smooth and have a decent paint job. Hopefully it wont come to that, but who knows. Regardless of which route I choose the truck will have to go inside for a while. A tape measure could only get me so far, so I attempted to fit it in the garage. It didn't go quite as well as I had hoped.    If I remove the bar that connects the opener to the door, the truck will just fit. There will be about a 1" gap from the rear of the cab to the opener and a couple inch gap between the frame and the door. As for that rear fender, it is in a bit worse shape than the other pic showed:   And since it was raining yesterday, I spent hours polishing all the stainless steel peices. They are all pitted, but they are usable. The 3600 emblems are not reproduced, so I don't really have a choice there. I am going to have someone look at the roof lights though, they are in worse shape then what I can deal with.        I am also not sure what I am going to do about the side view mirrors. My grandfather found the mirrors in his shed. They are huge and suited more for towing then putting around town, but I haven't decided whether or not I am going to use them. 
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Aug 29, 2009 19:13
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Well, the body guy gave me a quote to strip it down to bare metal, epoxy primer, and fix the dents in 3 of the fenders. $3500 As much as I don't want to buy a compressor just to paint it, I don't think I am going to have a choice. Also, this article seems pretty promising. The cost of the compressor, gun, supplies, and everything else needed would work out cheaper then $3500. Yay.....
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Sep 1, 2009 01:46
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Mooecow posted:Well, the body guy gave me a quote to strip it down to bare metal, epoxy primer, and fix the dents in 3 of the fenders. $3500 That is so much money! I am sure the body shop would do a great job for that price, but that's steep. You've tackled so many trades while working on this truck, why not add painting to the list?  Great job on the truck, you work at an incredible pace!
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Sep 1, 2009 04:09
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If you can, put a set of wheels on it with no tires. If the tires are junk you can just air them down but a plain set of steel wheels should give you the clearance you need and still be relatively easy to push around.
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Sep 1, 2009 04:41
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After seeing the rest of your work, you should have no trouble getting to grips with spraying! You could just treat the pitted rusty bits with some sort of rust converter to eliminate the rust in the holes, then spray it with high build primer before starting on the top coats. Once you have bought yourself a compressor you can also use it to air up your tyres after you have deflated them to get the truck into your garage!
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Sep 2, 2009 00:22
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Since I am going to be painting everything in pieces I am hoping I can get away with a smallish compressor. I don't have a 220v hookup in the garage so that severely limits my options. This compressor doesn't look too bad. 7.0 SCFM @ 40 PSI would work with this gun, which needs 5.91 CFM @ 29 PSI. As for the paint, this is probably what I will go with. Obviously if anyone has any suggestions let me know, since I am even further out of my element then normal here. I won't be buying anything for a couple weeks at the soonest, so this is far from set in stone. Classes are really going to slow me down now. 
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Sep 2, 2009 03:38
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I was going to suggest a gravity gun but you beat me to it. They dont waste paint like the suction feeds do and the finish tends to be better. The compressor looks up to the task too, although I generally paint at 55-60 psi with a ratio of 3:1 thinners to paint, and do more lighter coats. Nice work by the way!
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Sep 2, 2009 09:02
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I almost bought that compressor but when I got to the store I thought it was a little too cheap for my tastes, I went on craigslist and bought a craftsman standup 60 gallon for the same price. I would rather have a good used tool than spend $200 on something just because its new. I am interested to see how well a harbor freight spray gun would work, I haven't seen many of those around used. After you get a big compressor get one of these. That was the greatest thing I ever bought, it has taken off bolts that I thought I was going to have to cut off.
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Sep 2, 2009 15:17
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SpeedFreek posted:After you get a big compressor get one of these. Good impact tools are a must have for any shop. Do just about anything with them. And get a couple of the wire brush tools also. Theyre great for cleaning a surface real quick for a good weld. Love the truck by the way. Its looking way cool.
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Sep 2, 2009 15:31
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Toucan Sam posted:If you can, put a set of wheels on it with no tires. If the tires are junk you can just air them down but a plain set of steel wheels should give you the clearance you need and still be relatively easy to push around. I was going to say the same thing - just make the truck lower 
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Sep 2, 2009 19:58
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Given how shot the tires are I really didn't want to deflate the tires any more. I can picture them failing and going flat making it even harder to move around. So instead, I pulled the linkage on the opener, so now the door is a manual. Bit cramped in my garage now  I am going to be making a Harbor Freight run tomorrow and hopefully getting some of the painting supplies. The compressor is on sale and I have a 20% off coupon, so assuming my tiny local HF has it I will grab one.
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Sep 6, 2009 01:29
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 Well, at least they had the compressor. They had a few different spray guns, but of course not the one I was looking for. I should have asked before I went over there, but, are these blaster guns any good? There are a few areas I won't be able to get at with a paint disc, so I need some way to derust those areas.
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Sep 7, 2009 01:19
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You did good on choice of compressor. Also, that's not cramped, that's productively cozy.
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Sep 7, 2009 01:45
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Have you considered soda blasting? You can do it without a specialized blaster and it's easy to clean up. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but it's easy to test and try at least. Piece of tube + air nozzle and some baking soda and you can give it a shot.
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Sep 7, 2009 03:18
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Mooecow posted:I should have asked before I went over there, but, are these blaster guns any good? There are a few areas I won't be able to get at with a paint disc, so I need some way to derust those areas. That will work, but expect to have at least some headaches getting it to feed properly. Also, do yourself a favor and buy good media.
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Sep 7, 2009 03:36
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Z3n posted:Have you considered soda blasting? You can do it without a specialized blaster and it's easy to clean up. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but it's easy to test and try at least. Piece of tube + air nozzle and some baking soda and you can give it a shot. Alright, you piqued my interest. I looked it up. I'm definitely trying this! http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/
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Sep 7, 2009 04:37
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Alright, my paint choice has changed yet again. I am now looking at Kirker Mack Blue. Apparently Eastwoods and Summits paints are just re branded Kirker, so if I can save some $$ by not buying the name I wouldn't complain. I have been googleing for hours for reviews and they are all over the map. Some say it is great while others would rather slit their own throats with a spoon then be in the same zip code with it. Is there another brand I should be looking at that won't further break the bank? Opinions/Suggestions?
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Sep 10, 2009 03:27
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The people bitching are the people who demand you only use what they deem to be the best paint they currently use. Kirker makes a good acrylic urethane and since the vehicle was probably lacquer to begin with this will keep it semi correct and it's one step up from enamel. Check locally for an api or someone else who supplies PPG Omni Acrylic Urethane and you'll be surprised at the cheapness and ability to match the original color.
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Sep 10, 2009 03:37
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MrSaturn posted:Alright, you piqued my interest. I looked it up. I'm definitely trying this! God dammit, I wish I'd seen that a month ago. Very cool.
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Sep 10, 2009 04:22
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That soda blaster is an awesome idea I'm totally trying it. Even if it doesn't work for your application, you're only out $5 or so!
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Sep 10, 2009 05:55
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Well, I started stripping all the paint and primer off the cab and fenders. Since I have to remove the original primer, original paint, new primer, and new paint it is taking a while. A few pinholes opened up on the edges of the fenders, but other then that there have been no major surprises.  As for painting, I am still deciding whether to get a good 3M painting respirator ($) or a fresh air supply ($$$$). I have been looking at the hobby air I system. Given the paint has isocyanates in it, I am weary of using just a respirator. Oh well, whats money anyway? 
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Sep 14, 2009 01:39
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I scanned but didn't see this.. What welding setup are you using with this project? Did you get the sears one? Gotta say I love it, great job! Tindjin fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Sep 14, 2009 |
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Sep 14, 2009 04:52
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Z3n posted:Have you considered soda blasting? You can do it without a specialized blaster and it's easy to clean up. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but it's easy to test and try at least. Piece of tube + air nozzle and some baking soda and you can give it a shot. Soda blasting is really awesome and I want to try it some time. It leaves a residue, and if you don't wash it off it protects against rust. Just wash it off when you are ready to paint/prime/whatever. It's also very tame. It takes paint off and doesn't hurt metal. You can even spray over chrome emblems.
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Sep 14, 2009 05:10
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Yea, I am using the Sears welder. It has been more than adequate for this project. I got the Kirker paint chart, and Mack Blue doesn't look too bad. I went and priced out getting paint locally. The current color is definitely is Washington Blue from a 30's Ford. I was quoted 3x as much as the Kirker brand paint, so needless to say I am going with Kirker. I also bought a Hobby Air fresh air system. I don't feel like risking my health over a bit of $$. Hell, I have spent so much on this project as it is, whats a little more?  In order to cut costs a bit, I am building the spray booth out of PVC and plastic sheeting. The first attempt at building it today didn't quite go as planned. It was a bit too wobbly, so I am going to add a few supports and it should be all set. It is 20'l x 10'w x 10'h so I should have plenty of room to work.I am still working on stripping the cab and fenders to bare metal. All the pitting is slowly me right down. I am ordering the paint tonight so hopefully I will have it for next weekend. We'll see.... 
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Sep 21, 2009 01:10
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It's looking good!
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Sep 21, 2009 01:17
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Any update on the engine and what's the poor bed been doing all this time?
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Sep 21, 2009 16:52
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Re-reading this thread from the beginning, I am very glad you didn't listen to the naysayers like Tai-Pan and the rest, and have kept pushing forward. This is a very fun project to watch develop.
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Sep 21, 2009 18:23
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#1 Nice job so far. #2 When you are done, if you are interested in selling the Hobby Air system, I'd be interested in purchasing it.
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Sep 22, 2009 00:40
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That truck is going to kick so much rear end when it's done. Like Burbanzilla and the Froot Truck, it needs a name. For no particular reason, I suggest Kalinda.
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Sep 22, 2009 06:59
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Well, since it is starting to get cooler out I have been scrambling, so I don't have many pictures. I tried to use the spot blaster with crushed glass media, and was underwhelmed to say the least. It removed the paint alright, but didn't touch the rust at all. I am hoping it was just the media. I am going to order a 50lb bag of medium Black Beauty media. I have removed as much rust and paint as I could from the cab and 2 of the fenders. I still have the other good fender, hood, bed, and doors. At this point I might just leave the bed till spring. I don't think I will have time to strip it down before it gets too cold out to spray on the epoxy primer. Anyway, here is the fabled PVC spray booth. The posts are 1.5' in the ground, so it is quite stable. I am going to hang 4 mil clear plastic on it when I am spraying in it. 
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Sep 27, 2009 02:24
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