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Hello again, plumbing megathread. A while ago I asked for advice about 2 leaking taps in my kitchen, and got it. Thanks. Anyway, I've got a few idle days so I thought I'd finally tackle it. (real man of action me) I found the easiest way to tackle the feeder tap under the sink was to take it off, like thus: [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/b9450184c9331ecf21107f6ac146f09d1a8dca8b/P110809_13.51_[02].jpg[/img] I took off the T of the handle, which allowed me to unscrew the first unscrewy bit, but I can't unscrew the main body of the tap, underneath which I believe I'll find all kinds of black magic & washers. Is it worth me swearing & hammering at this or shall I just get a new tap? Also, I've made no headway with the main fancy kitchen tap:  Click here for the full 640x480 image. I believe underneath the end-caps on each handle I'll find screws etc to let me in, but nothing's budging. I feel like I'll break something, am I barking up the wrong tree?
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Aug 11, 2009 14:15
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Replying to myself, as I think I fixed both of them. As I needed water again I cleaned up the brass feeder tap & reassembled it. In doing so I brushed some greasy graphite-like residue out from between the 2 screw-in/out bits, seems that was fouling the seal. If it gives me more trouble I'll replace the whole tap. The chrome one - there's a screw in the back you can't see from easily, (spotted it outside when testing the outside tap) that let me pull the neck of the tap out. Clean & brush up, scrape the deposits away & re-seat the 2 o-rings, back together & everything's good.
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Aug 11, 2009 16:45
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Quick question: I'm tiling in my new bathtub and don't want to tile the ceiling. Can I use greenboard and textured paint on the ceiling (to match the rest of the bathroom) and not run into problems with mold? I'm going to be installing a fan/vent thingy in the bathroom but I'm not sure if that would reduce the humidity enough
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Aug 12, 2009 00:25
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Cakefool posted:Hello again, plumbing megathread. I'd person just get a new faucet if i were you. IF you're unsure of taking it apart and repairing it, it will be easier to just get a new faucet. e: I just saw your 2nd reply. , did the O rings leave any black residue on your fingers? If they didnt they are still good.- Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Aug 12, 2009 |
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Aug 12, 2009 02:22
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dyne posted:Quick question: I'm tiling in my new bathtub and don't want to tile the ceiling. Can I use greenboard and textured paint on the ceiling (to match the rest of the bathroom) and not run into problems with mold? I'm going to be installing a fan/vent thingy in the bathroom but I'm not sure if that would reduce the humidity enough You will be fine just tincturing it and painting it. As long as you dont spray a poo poo ton of water up there .
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Aug 12, 2009 02:25
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So to update on the cabin project I posted about a couple weeks ago, I finally got a good look at the plumbing, and the only thing that burst was the water heater and a piece of CPVC that ran in the wall from the cold water in to a water softener in the other room (stupid manufactured homes with no room for plumbing so you have to put the softener in the closet of the bedroom next door). The rest of the house was plumbed in pex. Anyway, I installed a new 50 gallon tank heater and replumbed the pressure tank (what kind of plumber just sets a tank on top of a water heater without at least securing it in some way). I ran a few temporary lines just to get them going until I can get up there and redo the whole house properly. My only question now is, what's the best insulation to stop condensation on pex? I put on those foam tubes, but they are still moist when I check them. Google doesn't say much, other than "pex doesn't condensate", to which I say nuh-uh. Maybe if I get those ultra-flexible wraps with tape built in instead of the cheap stuff? Or maybe I just need to install it better. I still don't know how my brothers well pipes are insulated, and the drat plumber still won't call me back.
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Aug 12, 2009 05:51
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Mthrboard posted:So to update on the cabin project I posted about a couple weeks ago, I finally got a good look at the plumbing, and the only thing that burst was the water heater and a piece of CPVC that ran in the wall from the cold water in to a water softener in the other room (stupid manufactured homes with no room for plumbing so you have to put the softener in the closet of the bedroom next door). The rest of the house was plumbed in pex. Anyway, I installed a new 50 gallon tank heater and replumbed the pressure tank (what kind of plumber just sets a tank on top of a water heater without at least securing it in some way). I ran a few temporary lines just to get them going until I can get up there and redo the whole house properly. My only question now is, what's the best insulation to stop condensation on pex? I put on those foam tubes, but they are still moist when I check them. Google doesn't say much, other than "pex doesn't condensate", to which I say nuh-uh. Maybe if I get those ultra-flexible wraps with tape built in instead of the cheap stuff? Or maybe I just need to install it better. I still don't know how my brothers well pipes are insulated, and the drat plumber still won't call me back. I've never seen pex condensate. How'd you install it? Some pics may be helpful. What type of temps are you reaching at the location you're in.
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Aug 12, 2009 06:19
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I've never seen pex condensate. How'd you install it? Some pics may be helpful. What type of temps are you reaching at the location you're in. Unfortunately, I won't be able to get any pictures until next weekend when I go up there again. As for the install, there were four lengths of pex coming up thru the floor - cold in from the well, cold out (I assume it branches under the floor in the warm insulated space), cold in for the water heater, and hot out. Every cold pipe in this area as well as the pipes under the kitchen sink and the bathrooms have moisture on them. I did find one reference on google to pex condensating in northern Minnesota with the ultra-cold well water. So it's not just my installation, even the existing pex is condensating, as well as the pressure tank.
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Aug 12, 2009 14:21
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I'd person just get a new faucet if i were you. IF you're unsure of taking it apart and repairing it, it will be easier to just get a new faucet. No residue, I thought that meant they were good, thanks for the confirmation.
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Aug 12, 2009 14:26
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Mthrboard posted:Unfortunately, I won't be able to get any pictures until next weekend when I go up there again. As for the install, there were four lengths of pex coming up thru the floor - cold in from the well, cold out (I assume it branches under the floor in the warm insulated space), cold in for the water heater, and hot out. Every cold pipe in this area as well as the pipes under the kitchen sink and the bathrooms have moisture on them. I did find one reference on google to pex condensating in northern Minnesota with the ultra-cold well water. So it's not just my installation, even the existing pex is condensating, as well as the pressure tank. It sounds to me that you have a weak some where. But i will ask my boss if he's ever seen pex condensate. I'll get back to you tomorrow.
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Aug 13, 2009 02:32
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I have some plumbing to do around my own house. Is there anything special someone would want to see a tutorial on plumbing wise with some pics? So name thing you want to learn and i'll see if i can make a Tutorial for you.
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Aug 13, 2009 06:35
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I installed a water line for my refrigerator yesterday and had a quick question. At the point the CPVC line reaches the recessed water valve in the wall, It uses copper threaded tube. I bought one of those converters that looks like a garden hose that screws on and pinches the PVC insert with a rubber washer. Anyway, when I turned on the water, the only point of leaking in my entire rig was at the copper end (very very slow leak).. I shut the water and re-connected both "screw" portions, this time using more pipe tape and tightening hard with wrenches.. This time, no leaking.. What are the chances this will leak in the future? Do screw connections with enough pipe tape stay sealed well, or is this something I'll have to continually eyeball? Glad I decided to install one extra On/Off valve at the point of contact before the pipe went into the wall heading to the kitchen!
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Aug 13, 2009 15:10
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It sounds to me that you have a Leak some where. But i will ask my boss if he's ever seen pex condensate. I'll get back to you tomorrow. Pex can condensate. Best way to prevent it is insulate the cold lines. Also seal the insulation with insulation tape. You need to prevent the air moving across the pipe which will cause condensation.
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Aug 14, 2009 02:22
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FidgetyRat posted:I installed a water line for my refrigerator yesterday and had a quick question. It sounds you it should be fine. If its not leaking now it wont for along rear end time. The rubber will be the first thing wear out in that connection. If you're worried pull the fridge and wipe the fitting with a piece of toilet paper. Toilet paper will show any wet spots easily.
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Aug 14, 2009 02:25
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Like most people where I live, I have to buy bottled water for drinking and cooking. I may be trading for a refrigerator which is set up to dispense water as well as make and dispense ice. Is there any practical way to set a refrigerator to draw from a 5 gallon jug of water (or something else comparable)? Would gravity be enough pressure?
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Aug 14, 2009 02:53
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You gain .434 PSI (lets round it up to 0.5 psi ) when a pipe travels down per each foot. If you had the 5 gallon bucket just up in the air 10 feet above the fridge you'd gain about 5 PSI. Now that's very low trickle. Unless you had the bucket lets say 30 feet you'd get bare minimum pressure that is required. The best way would be to get a pump to pump the water.
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Aug 14, 2009 04:01
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You gain .434 PSI (lets round it up to 0.5 psi ) when a pipe travels down per each foot. If you had the 5 gallon bucket just up in the air 10 feet above the fridge you'd gain about 5 PSI. Now that's very low trickle. Fair enough. I'll try to read up on my options. Not knowing much about pumps, is there a particular type of pump used in this kind of situation which is the name I'll start searching with? Maybe cistern pumps?
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Aug 14, 2009 05:01
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Mark Kidd posted:Like most people where I live, I have to buy bottled water for drinking and cooking. What's the reason why you use bottled water? Is it a quality issue, where a water filter may help, or is it something else? A lot of newer fridges with thru-door water/ice have built-in filters. If that's not enough, try a whole house pre-filter.
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Aug 14, 2009 05:04
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Mark Kidd posted:Fair enough. I'll try to read up on my options. Not knowing much about pumps, is there a particular type of pump used in this kind of situation which is the name I'll start searching with? Maybe cistern pumps? I dont know much about pumps to be used in the application. A whole house filter or under the kitchen sink would be you're best choice. Depending on whats lovely about your water. You have many different options to filter your house hold.
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Aug 14, 2009 05:45
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Our community's water supply has been tainted by a chemical spill. Unfortunately it's going to take more than a water filter.
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Aug 14, 2009 12:29
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Mark Kidd posted:Our community's water supply has been tainted by a chemical spill. Unfortunately it's going to take more than a water filter. Just for the record, what was the chemical, and has anyone developed super powers yet?
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Aug 14, 2009 16:26
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kid sinister posted:Just for the record, what was the chemical, and has anyone developed super powers yet? "Aromatic carbon compounds such as benzene, toluene, and xylene" Essentially byproducts and waste from diesel and other petroleum products. No super powers to report yet.
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Aug 17, 2009 13:28
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Almost thought I would have a serious question but instead I will warn you to always stay in control of any work done on your home, or rental property. Thanks to a nice but stingy homeowner, the rental I have an option to buy just went off my possible list once I looked in the basement. You see, when they worked on the kitchen in this 1940's era home, they plumbed the sink and dishwasher ABOVE the electrical panels. And there are two of those, one screw fuse and one newer panel. Both wide open to the water pipes ONE foot above them. Plus you see pipes that COULD have been secured right but instead have bodged straps or even a piece of wood nailed across supports to hold everything in. The clusterF&*( to fix both issues is not worth the house, which is fine in other respects, just not enough to deal with it. Beware.
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Aug 20, 2009 22:25
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Smuggins posted:Almost thought I would have a serious question but instead I will warn you to always stay in control of any work done on your home, or rental property. Honestly one of the biggest culprits for this is Home Depot. There " expert" staff tells people how to do it themselves. Most of the time its wrong. Or they give them a way to do it some what up to code. But don't let tell them how often the pipe should be supported. Or give them other details like that.
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Aug 21, 2009 00:27
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dyne posted:Quick question: I'm tiling in my new bathtub and don't want to tile the ceiling. Can I use greenboard and textured paint on the ceiling (to match the rest of the bathroom) and not run into problems with mold? I'm going to be installing a fan/vent thingy in the bathroom but I'm not sure if that would reduce the humidity enough Sorry to bring up this question again, but I don't really want to deal with any sort of mold problem in a couple years and I'm specifically worried about the ceiling in the shower. I've been reading conflicting information about greenboard and it trapping moisture behind the drywall and growing mold, and also how it needs to be screwed in 12" OC. I had been planning on putting up the drywall over (under?) the plaster ceiling that's up there now (it's not salvageable) and have been wondering about moisture getting between the drywall and plaster layers. So, should I use regular drywall, greenboard, or that purple mold & moisture resistant drywall I found at lowes? I'm leaning towards the purple stuff. also, sorry if this doesn't belong in a plumbing thread.
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Aug 22, 2009 02:55
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I've got a question about something that's been stumping me. For background info, we had the plumbing for the drain of our kitchen sink redone because it was leaking. Our dishwasher pump/drain out has always shared the same pipe down to sewage. Since the work was completed, I've noticed water pooling in the base of our dishwasher. I've shut off the water supply to the dishwasher for 24 hours to confirm it wasnt water leaking in that way. This is clearly water from the sink making it into the dishwasher. Enclosed is a picture. For the record, the connection marked in green is the dishwasher out. That corrugated flexible pipe goes all the way up, in a high loop, and is secured to the underside of the kitchen counter before travelling back down again to the dishwasher out. It is not a code requirement to have an air break in my area (toronto, canada), although I know this would solve the problem. The high loop should be sufficent according to what I have read. I don't understand how water is getting up this thing though, when its loop is clearly higher than the out to the main drain. Red is the kitchen sink out, green is dishwasher out, although it isnt apparent in the pic, the kitchen sink trap goes lower than the dishwasher trap. Any thoughts would be much appreciated! 
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Aug 23, 2009 20:24
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Saltin posted:I've got a question about something that's been stumping me. Wow that's very loving interesting to say the least. I don't know why they'd put in 2 p traps. The dishwasher pumps out the water so it can pump the water up hill and then back down. Unless you're having any issues with it i'd leave it.
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Aug 24, 2009 00:21
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Wow that's very loving interesting to say the least. I don't know why they'd put in 2 p traps. The dishwasher pumps out the water so it can pump the water up hill and then back down. Unless you're having any issues with it i'd leave it. That's just it, I am having an issue. From time to time, when I open the dishwaser, I notice it is full of water. This water isnt water left over from the dishwasher not draining properly. It isnt water from a leaking water supply. The water is coming from somewhere else. The only place it could be coming from is basically up the green line and into the dishwasher. This means water from the sink draining is somehow getting into the dishwasher! Saltin fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 15:19
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You could replace the vertical sink drain pipe right above the sink p-trap with one that has an attachment for the dishwasher hose. It's a very common part and is angled so that nothing will come back up.
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Aug 24, 2009 18:02
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I apologize if something similar has already been asked, but, following the advice of my other thread in Ask/Tell, I am posting this here: I just came back from vacation to find the kitchen in my apartment flooded with junk that has flowed up through my kitchen sink. My renter tells me that I need to get it fixed because it was in working order when I began renting the apartment almost a year ago, and I have no money to get it fixed. The drain is completed clogged (won't flow water down it at all) and junk periodically comes back up it. I tried putting a plunger on it and it has no affect. Can anyone offer any advice on how to fix this (temporarily or otherwise)? If not, I will probably end up removing the piping and capping it off temporarily just to stop it from flooding any further.
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Aug 24, 2009 18:07
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Are you on the bottom floor? It sounds like you have a clog in the drain stack for your column of apartments in your building and the poo poo flowing out of your sink is from the apartment above. Capping it would only cause the stack to fill up and eventually cause the same problem in your upstairs neighbor's apartment, possibly leaking down into your kitchen, again... Talk with your landlord again. If the drain clogged while you were away on vacation, then it most likely wasn't your fault and it's his responsibility to repair it, not to mention fix it before it becomes a health risk to you or the other tenants. Also, some leases specifically restrict the tenant from making repairs himself or even hire a repairman, they must use the landlord's contractor. You'll need to check your lease agreement to verify this. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 18:42
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Saltin posted:That's just it, I am having an issue. From time to time, when I open the dishwaser, I notice it is full of water. This water isnt water left over from the dishwasher not draining properly. It isnt water from a leaking water supply. kid sinister posted:Are you on the bottom floor? It sounds like you have a clog in the drain stack for your column of apartments in your building and the poo poo flowing out of your sink is from the apartment above. Capping it would only cause the stack to fill up and eventually cause the same problem in your upstairs neighbor's apartment, possibly leaking down into your kitchen, again... grover fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 22:42
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I'm trying to hook up a washing machine and a utility sink in my basement, right in front of the main stack for my 80ish year old house. Here's what I'm working with: Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. The big new pvc pipe was to a toilet the 100 year old previous owner had placed in the upstairs living room. edit: behind the wall to the right is a crappy bathroom. I think the vent pipe from the fixtures meet up with the vent pipe in the first picture I want to put the washing machine right in front of where the drain pipe is, and the utility next to it in front of the main stack. As I understand it, I should be using a 2" drain pipe for the washing machine because the 1.5" pipe won't be able to handle the volume of water pumped by the washing machine. I don't want to go and try to cut out the existing piping to put in a 2" pipe if I don't have to. My only real thought is that I could just hook up the utility sink to the existing drain pipe, then have the washing machine drain into the sink (so that the sink would act as a buffer). I don't really consider that an ideal solution, though, as I don't want the sink to overflow in the event of a drain clog. Any ideas? dyne fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 22:48
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Ahz posted:You could replace the vertical sink drain pipe right above the sink p-trap with one that has an attachment for the dishwasher hose. It's a very common part and is angled so that nothing will come back up. This is what I was thinking too, I was sure I'd seen that somewhere before. Will try it out, thanks! grover posted:How much water is it? Your dishwasher may be siphoning out the p-trap when it's done draining. Probably why nobody ever does it that way. It's more than that, and it builds slowly over time with the use of the kitchen sink (far as I can tell).
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Aug 24, 2009 23:19
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dyne posted:I'm trying to hook up a washing machine and a utility sink in my basement, right in front of the main stack for my 80ish year old house. Here's what I'm working with: Depends on the conditions of your drain in for laundry sink. I've seen washers run into them with out a problem. Its not something you'd see done on a new house but they have done it in older times. With out the proper tools cutting cast iron is a bitch so i dont blame ya for not wanting to try it. Does the water drain slow in your laundry sink at all? If it doesnt you should be fine using it.
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Aug 25, 2009 00:40
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Saltin posted:I've got a question about something that's been stumping me. Can i see a picture of the top of your sink. To see if you actually have room for an air gap. Using a dishwasher wye direclty before the P trap isnt technically legal but i doubt you want to drill your stainless steel sink (im assuming you have stainless, you can drill your counter top if there is room but it can look tacky) to install an air gap.
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Aug 25, 2009 00:42
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Depends on the conditions of your drain in for laundry sink. I've seen washers run into them with out a problem. Its not something you'd see done on a new house but they have done it in older times. Can I put a T connector directly below the sink drain, and hook a stand pipe for the washer drain to that and be ok code-wise?
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Aug 25, 2009 01:35
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dyne posted:It's going to be a new sink that would be hooked up to that white pvc elbow in the picture. If you have the drain that close you will most likely get sudds in the sink. And how do you plan on venting the sink?
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Aug 25, 2009 01:50
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you have the drain that close you will most likely get sudds in the sink. And how do you plan on venting the sink? As for the vent for the sink, wouldn't the vent pipe that's there work?
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Aug 25, 2009 03:32
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dyne posted:Well, if I drained the washer into the sink basin I would get sudds in the sink too. the T on its back looks like its flowing in the wrong direction for the vent. I could be seeing it wrong though but it looks like it sweeps to the right. A laundry sink is deep enough it wont suds up enough to. * Are you sure that T on its back is not a drain instead of a vent?
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Aug 25, 2009 04:16
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