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Or the Beretta thread.  You unworthy bastard.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 06:18 |
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| # ? May 23, 2013 06:12 |
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My IDPA club is having 2 ICORE side matches this year and this is a good excuse as any to pick up a wheelgun. So I'd like some recommendations based on the following requirements: - 9mm(yay power floor reduction in IDPA!) - 6 shot - IDPA legal(less then 4.2" barrel and weighs less then 43oz) - high visibility front sight(I can just paint it on I guess) - non terrible holster support(need to have a lefty holster) - not be $gently caress Bonus points if Mishaco or someone swoops in and says buy this thing from me now. 
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 14:30 |
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I am a bad person and have made a cheap S&W 617 my white whale.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 15:06 |
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Insane Totoro posted:I am a bad person and have made a cheap S&W 617 my white whale. What is bad about that? You might have a rough time finding a cheap one, but they certainly are available.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 15:58 |
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Local store priced me a new one at $679. Not bad. I'd want to get it for $617. Oh I have had more than one gun owner (not just here) try to pressure me into a vintage one with the wood grips and all that. Insane Totoro fucked around with this message at Jan 17, 2012 around 16:45 |
| # ? Jan 17, 2012 16:31 |
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Insane Totoro posted:Local store priced me a new one at $679. Not bad. I'd want to get it for $617. Well one of the great things about quality wheelguns is that they hold their value extremely well, and even appreciate. I would say that if you plan on holding onto this gun for a long time you should do it right and find yourself a proper old pre-17 for somewhere around ~450. The value of them is only going to go up. There is this concept of used guns being under-valued that seems to have proven to be a solid indicator of a good buy for many years now. Any time you can look at a quality gun and know that it is currently "worth" less then it would cost to produce today you probably have a good buy on your hands. At least after you factor in a bit of desirability and rarity. The pre-model versions of S&W revolvers are similar or better then the current performance center models. They don't even make a PC .22lr revolver right now, but if they did you would be looking at at least $900+ for an equivalent gun.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 17:04 |
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Challenge accepted. And yes, this would be a lifetime, pass down to the kids, holding in my hands while peeing myself during the robot apocalypse of 2036 type of gun. The point that I am confused on is how do you tell it is a "Pre Model 17" given the weird way S&W numbers their revolvers? Also, I did email and ask about that Kit Gun on Summit: http://www.summitgunbroker.com/34_Kit_Gun.html Which I keep warming up to despite my attraction to the stainless look. Now this is one of the proper "old" S&W rimfire revolvers then? Edit: Yes I did see your guide to S&W models earlier. I'm still confused. Insane Totoro fucked around with this message at Jan 17, 2012 around 17:32 |
| # ? Jan 17, 2012 17:30 |
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I told you that i found that large batch of S&Ws ; most of them police trade-ins...There was a Model 17 in there for something like $300-$350....sorry don't recall the exact amount as i wasn't in the market for one, but i do recall they had 1 or 2 of them. If you are serious, i could snag it for you.... Also, speaking of that batch, i ordered 3 M66s from them. One is a no dash Model 66 with 2.5" barrel and the other 2 are Model 66-1s with 4" barrels. I already have a Model 19.4 so i wouldn't want both, but which would you rather own? a 66-1 or a 19.4? The 66 might not be in quite as nice condition as the 19 i already own but then again the price is offset by $50 or so, so there's that to consider.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 17:39 |
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Dear Mishaco, PM sent. Love, Totoro.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 17:42 |
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Insane Totoro posted:Dear Mishaco, Sounds like this point may already be settled based on what Mischaco found. $300 for any model 17 is a great deal. That said, let me answer this: Insane Totoro posted:Challenge accepted. And yes, this would be a lifetime, pass down to the kids, holding in my hands while peeing myself during the robot apocalypse of 2036 type of gun. Lets see if I can clarify it a bit. In 1958 Smith and Wesson started applying model numbers to their guns, prior to that time models were sort of nebulous. For example what is now called a Model 10 was previously called a Military and Police. The model 10 was attributed to the standard .38 special they made in 2"-6" barrels and fixed sights. The same gun with target sights and a 4" barrel was called the K-38 Combat Masterpiece and later the model 15. A Model K-38 Target Masterpiece or model 14 is just a model 10 with adjustable target sights and came in barrel lengths longer then 6". The exact same thing applies to the Model 17 and it's pre-model version. Confusing? Sure. Therein lies the profit. Most guys have no idea what the difference is between a Model 10 produced in 1985 and a pre-model 10 produced in 1947. If you hold them side by side the difference shines through. The gun produced in the 40s was hand fitted by master gunsmiths with decades of experience and probably has triple the man hours put in over the 80's gun. If you see my other post I note the Serial numbers and build numbers. This is a sign of how crazy they were about quality then. As these guns went through the assembly line they would stamp them to make sure that the proper hand fitted and tuned parts stayed together. These make it easy for you to identify an all original gun. If whoever is pricing your S&W prices the 40's/50's gun like any other random later gun you have yourself a fine deal on what is essentially a hand tuned gun. \ The easy way to identify them is to just open the crane and look for the MOD number there. No MOD number on what you know is a model 10/14/17/etc. you know you have yourself a gun that was made before 1958 but after WW2. The sweet spot for S&W revolvers. All that said, that's the easy route to S&W buying. The trickiest thing is being able to look at a gun and say "That's a model 10". In your case all you need to do is be able to say "That's a model 17" and you are set. Now, the hard route to S&W buying. Just because a gun was made after 1958 doesn't mean it can't be amazing. The same quality found in a gun from 1949 is still present in every 1959 gun, and many if not most of the guns from the 60's. There is just no easy way to determine how good it is without handling it in many cases. In other cases you know a particular gun will be amazing even with a model number. For example, if you find a model 19 without a - after it (such as 19-3) then you know that the gun was made before 1960 and should still have been made during S&W's peak years. Unfortunately this is where you just have to sperg out reading this, or bring it with you when you go gun buying.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 18:28 |
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Okay, I told Misha to go for it. That's a little bit clearer explanation. Thanks! (will take that to the gun show)
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 18:51 |
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Insane Totoro posted:Okay, I told Misha to go for it. Sure thing, it isn't exactly the easiest thing to get a handle on initially but once you do I think it is worth it. When you can hold a "bad" S&W Model 10 up to a "good" Pre-Model 10 you should have a really good idea of what all this means.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 18:59 |
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All of that being true, i've still handled a lot of S&Ws from the '70s and '80s that are still really great guns, at lest interms of trigger and lockup and all that. Its quite amazing how much new S&Ws go for and how little you can buy an older used one for. Probably the smoothest cylinder/crain I have on any of mine is on my Model 28-2. That gun has a bit of wear from service, but honest to god when you pop the cylinder latch, the drat thing rotates down like its on ballbarings. Its trigger is really smooth though heavier than the one on my first model 686. I have 2 wartime S&Ws but then my collection jumps to '60s era guns.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 19:15 |
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HEY INSANE TOTORO WELCOME TO WHEELGUNITIS POPULATION: EVERYONE IN THIS THREAD AND NOW YOU TOO.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 19:41 |
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HEY HE DIDN'T SAY HE GOT THE GUN FOR ME YET OK I GAVE HIM A MAX PRICE AND TOLD HIM TO GET IT NO WORD BACK YET CHECKBOOK ON TABLE EDIT: Out of stock. YOU ARE ALL FOILED AGAIN Insane Totoro fucked around with this message at Jan 17, 2012 around 19:51 |
| # ? Jan 17, 2012 19:49 |
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Anyone handled/shot/fondled/bought a Ruger SP101 in .22lr yet? I keep checking in to see if anyone has but haven't noticed any such posts.. I'm considering it as a (potentially) cheaper alternative to a 17/617 but if it's just no where near as good I can hold out. Bear in mind this is  too so prices are totally hosed up. New Ruger has the potential of being considerably cheaper than an older smith even (even the ones that would be $300 or whatever in the states).
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 19:55 |
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I had an SP101 in .22lr years ago and it was OK. The DA trigger is the typical Ruger (by that I mean way heavier than it needs to be) and it's overbuilt for .357 so it really feels like firing a cap gun with .22s. I assume the new ones aren't a radical departure, besides the extra capacity. I would hold out for the Smith.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 20:33 |
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MrKatharsis posted:I had an SP101 in .22lr years ago and it was OK. The DA trigger is the typical Ruger (by that I mean way heavier than it needs to be) and it's overbuilt for .357 so it really feels like firing a cap gun with .22s. I'm a huge Ruger fanboy but I tend to agree. The Ruger SP101 is an amazing gun for packing around if you actually have to use a gun. If you need to have a .22 to shoot rats or vermin on your 5 acres or whatnot, it is definitely the gun for you. They will be around long after every other gun in existence has been worn away to nothing. A Pre-17 is an heirloom that comes out for range trips, practice, teaching because it is a finely crafted target pistol. The SP101 is an heirloom because it's that gun that grandpa killed untold numbers of rats, racoons, opossums, etc. with over the course of 30 years, never cleaned it, and it still runs like the day it was made.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 20:52 |
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Good info, I'll hold out for the smith then. How's the trigger on the 10 shot 617 compare to the 6 shot one? Is it fine, just different timing? I'd probably be getting a 6 shot 17 anyway, just curious about the 10 shot.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 21:20 |
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 .40 Chiappa rhino.http://gunnuts.net/2012/01/05/chiappa-rhino-40-sw/
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 21:22 |
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priznat posted:Good info, I'll hold out for the smith then. How's the trigger on the 10 shot 617 compare to the 6 shot one? Is it fine, just different timing? The 10 shot I played around with in a gun shop was just fine. It was like other good new S&Ws I have played with, very slight amount of creep, but better then almost any automatic. One thing everyone should always keep in mind regarding .22 revolvers however is that the double action is pretty bad on all of them regardless of who made it. Basically any .22 revolver you own will be shot almost entirely in single action. The reason is that the spring has to be strong to reliably ignite rimfire rounds. Can't really lighten it up too much or your gun isn't going to go bang every time you pull the trigger. I like turtles posted:
Damnation, I wished so hard they would be quality. After holding a few it bums me out how terrible their execution of such a neat design is. .40 S&W is such a bizarre choice. I don't see why they didn't just make them in 10mm/.40, it's not like that would have been any more work. Sixgun Strumpet fucked around with this message at Jan 17, 2012 around 21:26 |
| # ? Jan 17, 2012 21:24 |
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Sixgun Strumpet posted:
Unless you work on it some that is. I agree that out of the box, the S&W DA is best described as stout, but all that changes after you switch a couple of springs (and practice for a while). Once you find that reliability sweet spot there's not a whole lot to it, haven't had a misfire in years.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 22:40 |
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I really don't dog on new Smiths. I like the detail and finishing of older ones combined with their lower prices, but new ones aren't 1/4th as bad as many 'experts' online make them out to be. Sometimes they even did some improvements. I'd rather have a Model 66-7 over saya 66-5 just because of having the stronger forcing cone and i'd definitely take any newer airweight or airlight over a '50s aluminium alloy frame gun, just because of advances in metalergy. My Model 340PD is not as finely crafted or pretty as my M19, but is perfectly functional and after i've spent time breaking it in, the DAO trigger is actually pretty good; i'd not want it any lighter in a carry gun at least. The thing for me though is cost...used 686 for $450ish, new one for $650. The new ones are not really 'worse' than the old ones most of the time, but $200 + you get an older gun? Speaking of S&Ws, i need a bit of info/help with some autos...sorry i know heel gun thread but i think most of us kind of go into their autos a bit too? Can anyone tell me the time period in which the 5926s were made? Also, which year were the 6926s made? Any interesting facts about either model? Like some police or federal agencies that carried them? Good looking guns, and i know about the safety recall/upgrade with the 2 dots meaning an S&W armorer checked them out and passed them.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 23:08 |
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hagrd posted:Unless you work on it some that is. Do you tend to have to use the same type of ammo, or did you find that spot where the spring is strong enough to work on anything but still pretty smooth? Mishaco posted:I really don't dog on new Smiths. I like the detail and finishing of older ones combined with their lower prices, but new ones aren't 1/4th as bad as many 'experts' online make them out to be. Sometimes they even did some improvements. I'd rather have a Model 66-7 over saya 66-5 just because of having the stronger forcing cone and i'd definitely take any newer airweight or airlight over a '50s aluminium alloy frame gun, just because of advances in metalergy. My Model 340PD is not as finely crafted or pretty as my M19, but is perfectly functional and after i've spent time breaking it in, the DAO trigger is actually pretty good; i'd not want it any lighter in a carry gun at least. The thing for me though is cost...used 686 for $450ish, new one for $650. The new ones are not really 'worse' than the old ones most of the time, but $200 + you get an older gun? I'll look up the info on those autos when I get home tonight and get back to you. Also I do agree with you, there is nothing wrong with the new S&Ws and I would certainly recommend one over any other kind of new wheelgun except Ruger. It's just that the old ones (and especially the 50's era) are such a steal right now when it comes to price that I think anyone thinking about a brand new gun should take a serious look at finding an old used one if it's a model they have made for a long time. Sixgun Strumpet fucked around with this message at Jan 17, 2012 around 23:14 |
| # ? Jan 17, 2012 23:10 |
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Mishaco posted:Can anyone tell me the time period in which the 5926s were made? Also, which year were the 6926s made? According to the Big Book of Smiths an Wessons, the 5926 was made from 1990 to 1993. The 6926 was only made in 1991. You sure that's the stainless 6926 and not a blued 6924? Because they only made five of the blued guns.
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| # ? Jan 17, 2012 23:25 |
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haha i wish....i could blue it! definitely a 6926 though being serious and in good shape too with the proper 12 rd mag.
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| # ? Jan 18, 2012 00:33 |
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Does anyone think there's any chance an upper sideplate screw for a Smith & Wesson would fit in the same hole on a Manurhin MR73? Mine is all buggered.
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| # ? Jan 18, 2012 06:41 |
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Sixgun Strumpet posted:Do you tend to have to use the same type of ammo, or did you find that spot where the spring is strong enough to work on anything but still pretty smooth? Where it's at right now it works with whatever I happen to run through it. The last time I went looking for ~::the perfect .22::~ I must have tried 40 different brands and they pretty much all went bang. Triggerpulls are fiercely subjective and all but compared to a teammates (bought in September) I'd say mines about half the weight and very very smooth. SA breaks at just above 1000g. However, since I've only been using one brand and batch lately (Norma2, cheap and accurate  ) it's hard to come to a definitive conclusion.It's a fairly straightforward process, find ammo that works (accuracy>performance/>price), replace springs (I currently use Wolffs lightest rebound), and practice, practice, practice.
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| # ? Jan 18, 2012 12:23 |
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Sammy Davis, Jr's Model 57 .41 magnum is on Gunbroker   That cat had some sweet guns.  Auction
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| # ? Jan 19, 2012 07:27 |
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I'm pretty sure I asked this a bit ago, but I can't find my post and  This is pretty much the exact Smith I want - 4" heavy barrel, blued .38 or .357. http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...8sp+SQUARE+BUTT Is there any reason I shouldn't buy it? Can $~270 get me something better? Or should I spend a little bit more and get something a little nicer? It's only going to be a shooter/IDPA gently caress around gun, so holster wear doesn't bother me. edit: I don't mind if there is another model out there that would be a good choice, so long as it meets the basic criteria.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 01:36 |
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IuniusBrutus posted:I'm pretty sure I asked this a bit ago, but I can't find my post and I'd say that's a decent price for a Model 10 in that condition. And as long as you're happy with .38 instead of having the option of shooting .357 a Model 10 is pretty much the way to go...unless you want to splurge a bit on a Model 15.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 05:01 |
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.357 Magnum is a great cartridge, but most folks just end up shooting .38 out of a .357 anyway. The versatility and options that a .357 gives are great, but if I'm carrying a revolver I don't feel undergunned with a good .38 +P load. Unless you have some specific need or desire for a .357, I say go for the Model 10. And besides, if you have a .38 now, and you end up wanting a .357 later, you can just start expanding your collection. Like we did.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 15:47 |
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Yay! No just have to decide whether I want the round or square butt...
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 16:24 |
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IuniusBrutus posted:Yay! That's a good question. On a four-inch gun I'm inclined to go for square butt, and if it's a snubbie then round butt is best. Round butt gives you better options for concealed carry type grips. But square butt gives you more options for grips in general. And I carry a four-inch K-frame (square butt) with giant target grips on it just fine; a lot of that comes down to holster and wardrobe. So I guess it's mostly about what you want the gun for.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 16:32 |
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Welp. Just ordered a square butt M10 from Buds. Here's to hoping it's not beat to hell! Not going to be carried though...just a plinker, an excuse to start reloading .38, and I'll probably try and shoot an IDPA match with it this year.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 17:31 |
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IuniusBrutus posted:Welp. Just ordered a square butt M10 from Buds. Here's to hoping it's not beat to hell! I gotta get myself in on one of those Model 10 deals that pop up from time to time. For me personally, I also hope it's beat halfway to hell.  I love my GP100, but I look at its near-perfect finish and think that it's gotta change sometime. I need a holster.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 18:06 |
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=*cough* i have a 4" Model 10-7 in the Classifieds in VG condition, pol-surp. I keep bidding on MOdel 12-2s and 12-3s but people are bidding more. I am just not willing to go over $400.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 18:52 |
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Mishaco posted:=*cough* i have a 4" Model 10-7 in the Classifieds in VG condition, pol-surp. I would have gotten yours, but I really wanted a heavy barrel one - I was basically looking for something close to my grandfather's model 10, but one that I wouldn't feel bad about beating on. Brownell's has speedloaders for $7 with super-secret discount, and safariland speedloader holders for like $10. Bingo.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 19:32 |
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Are those at Bud's HBs? oh ok....the last ones i looked at over there had standard barrels. I'd get an HB Model 10 too but i already have a Model 19 so not much difference really. I'd actually like a 2" HB Model 10.
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| # ? Jan 21, 2012 19:45 |
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| # ? May 23, 2013 06:12 |
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Well, I went and picked up this little guy....Hi Standard Double 9.  9-shot .22 revolver, but it had some problems with the DA after a few dozen rounds, so I took it back. It was a sweet little gun, and they're gonna send it to the smith and see if it's fixable. If so, I'm gonna buy it back.  Meanwhile, I traded it back and put it towards this li'l guy. Dan Wesson .44mag snubbie. Gold trigger, for some reason. Hogue grips, and they really feel nice. Points really well.  
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| # ? Jan 22, 2012 04:00 |
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