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Pigsfeet on Rye posted:What are the advantages / disadvantages of 6-shot vs. 7-shot vs. 8-shot? A slimmer cylinder will be easier to conceal, if that's a consideration, hence why you see lots of 5-shot .38s and .357s. As for Taurus, I'm considering one of them (or a used Ruger), but I'm a bit confused. Just poking through reviews on Bud's, it seems like there are more Taurus revolvers with faults out of the box than other pistols, however a very solid gun store clerk told me they're quite solid, but to avoid the semi-autos. I know "this one guy" is not generally a reputable source, but he generally knows his poo poo. Were they the ones that had trouble with sending barrels downrange with the bullets?
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| # ? Jan 26, 2010 06:47 |
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| # ? May 26, 2013 02:20 |
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thermobollocks posted:Were they the ones that had trouble with sending barrels downrange with the bullets? Yes. Considering the prices used GP100s and Security Sixes can be found for, most of us can't recommend buying a new Taurus. That said, my lone experience with a $190, entry-level Taurus .38 wasn't profoundly disappointing. It shot to point-of-aim and ran fine. I don't know if I'd call them "quite solid," but they work. The trigger and the finish is a little rough, and certain models are regarded more favorably than others (lots of positive opinions of the PT1911 and Raging Bulls, for example), but if that sounds like it's all you need and you don't want to shell out another 80 bucks or so for a Ruger, it's not like the thing is going to blow up on you or give you cancer.
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| # ? Jan 26, 2010 10:21 |
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hangedman posted:Yes. Considering the prices used GP100s and Security Sixes can be found for, most of us can't recommend buying a new Taurus. I have a Rossi .357 snubnose that I bought dirt cheap from a buddy who'd lost his job. It's nothing to write home about- it jammed the first time I shot it (the hammer wouldn't travel). One of the grip screws was too tight, and I'm not a big fan of leaving a screw a bit loose on a gun. That said, it's not like the screw is extremely loose, but if it hadn't been for the price (~$200 w/three speedloaders, holster, and holster for the speedloaders) I would've gone with a used S&W for my first wheelgun purchase.
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| # ? Jan 26, 2010 19:01 |
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Consider that there appear to be a number of po-surp S&W 10s and 64s selling in the neighborhood of $200 on gunbroker at the moment. They have fixed sights as they are more of a law enforcement type gun, but they have heavy barrels and should be plenty accurate. If you're looking for an inexpensive range or home defense revolver, give those some consideration.
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| # ? Jan 26, 2010 21:24 |
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If one was looking for a 44mag smoke wagon, what brands and models might one look at? I figure Ruger/S&W/DW are good bets. I am leaning toward a single action like the Bisley, but I haven't made up my mind yet.
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| # ? Jan 26, 2010 21:47 |
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Black Stormy posted:If one was looking for a 44mag smoke wagon, what brands and models might one look at? I figure Ruger/S&W/DW are good bets. I am leaning toward a single action like the Bisley, but I haven't made up my mind yet. Those .44 mag Bisleys are really really elmer, I want one. Though, I would probably load .44 special for it. If you want about the lowest price .44 mag possible you can dig around for a Blackhawk, the one I owned only cost me $200. Worked great, but I really didn't like the hair trigger on it, I didn't think I would be shooting it for pleasure and I really didn't feel safe giving it to anyone. My Redhawk though? Awesome. It is just a tank of a gun. I would eventually like to pick up a Model 29 too, but that is just one of the steps on my road to owning all the guns.
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| # ? Jan 26, 2010 22:02 |
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There was a nice-looking Bisley for sale in the classifieds thread not too long ago. Other than that, the S&W Model 29 is a classic. Rugers are built like tanks, but I've never spent that much time with them. I like the look and feel of S&Ws better, personally. If I was going to get a single action, I'd go for a Vaquero or other design that stayed more true to the original lines of the Colt SAA.
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| # ? Jan 26, 2010 22:07 |
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Another question on .357's, since I was looking at Gunbroker: If you buy a 'pistol pack' like Dan Wesson used to offer, you essentially get X number of barrels for some price. Are there any negatives that are endemic to this kind of kit?
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| # ? Jan 27, 2010 03:38 |
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infrared35 posted:There was a nice-looking Bisley for sale in the classifieds thread not too long ago. I didn't see one on here, but I did find one in the MGO for sale section. I PM'ed the guy about it. We will see what he says. It has a lame-rear end scope mount on it though. I hope the rear sight is un-damaged, and this isn't a drill and tap mount. Edit: Aww, its a 7.5" model. I really want a 5.5". drat. Black Stormy fucked around with this message at Jan 27, 2010 around 04:06 |
| # ? Jan 27, 2010 04:01 |
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Black Stormy posted:I didn't see one on here, but I did find one in the MGO for sale section. I PM'ed the guy about it. We will see what he says. It has a lame-rear end scope mount on it though. I hope the rear sight is un-damaged, and this isn't a drill and tap mount. My bad, it was a .45LC.
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| # ? Jan 27, 2010 12:00 |
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Pigsfeet on Rye posted:Another question on .357's, since I was looking at Gunbroker: If you buy a 'pistol pack' like Dan Wesson used to offer, you essentially get X number of barrels for some price. Are there any negatives that are endemic to this kind of kit? As I understand it they can take a bit more maintenance for the same reason that Smith and Wesson ever pinned their barrels. Over time you might have to check the cylinder gap, because it is set by screwing in the barrel. A bit of searching will get you some more information. I don't think it is an actual problem, just something to be aware of.
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| # ? Jan 27, 2010 15:56 |
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I'm doing some preliminary research on Ruger Blackhawks; I really want one and so I'm doing lots of reading. Suggestions on diagrams/disassembly info? I know the basics of how to disassemble one, so I'm really looking for diagrams of the insides and such. The other thing is this: the transfer bar safety. I'm looking to buy an older Ruger Super Blackhawk, and I know that Ruger says you can send in your gun and they'll install the TBS and that it requires no permanent mods to the gun. Now, my preliminary reading has people saying that this makes the trigger suck and other stuff. How easy would it be to take an old Ruger that has had the TBS installed and undo it? Would that even be wise? Does it even matter? I'm betting that, as it is with a lot of things, it's more that people are resistant to something new than it is an actual problem with the gun itself.
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| # ? Jan 27, 2010 17:21 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:As I understand it they can take a bit more maintenance for the same reason that Smith and Wesson ever pinned their barrels. Over time you might have to check the cylinder gap, because it is set by screwing in the barrel. A bit of searching will get you some more information. I don't think it is an actual problem, just something to be aware of.
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| # ? Jan 27, 2010 17:26 |
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QuarkMartial posted:I'm doing some preliminary research on Ruger Blackhawks; I really want one and so I'm doing lots of reading. Suggestions on diagrams/disassembly info? I know the basics of how to disassemble one, so I'm really looking for diagrams of the insides and such. My New Model Super Blackhawk's trigger doesn't seem bad, per se, although I've got no trigger time on unmodified SA revolvers other than my cheap .22; I will say that it feels a little "odd" when resetting after firing - just transfer bar and all that disconnecting, I suspect. Not a deal-breaker, IMO. The stock transfer-bar does remove half-cock and free-pawl-spin, however. It goes from a standard SA "click-click-click-click" cocking to "click-CLACK", which annoys your cowboy-action purists. (You can spin the cylinder still, but only with the loading gate open.) I don't know if you can slap your stock parts back in and go, but I do know there's aftermarket pawl & spring kits to bring back the original functions and sounds. (Might be for New Model guns with the transfer-bar as stock. Can't research from work anymore.  )
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| # ? Jan 27, 2010 17:41 |
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QuarkMartial posted:I'm doing some preliminary research on Ruger Blackhawks; I really want one and so I'm doing lots of reading. Suggestions on diagrams/disassembly info? I know the basics of how to disassemble one, so I'm really looking for diagrams of the insides and such. All the manuals in PDF Does it matter? I think it's preference really. I haven't really noticed any difference between a converted 3 screw (old model, converted to have the transfer bar) and an unconverted. Personally, I like the old style better. The big difference is how you load it, the old models were like the Colt SAA, you had 3 clicks on the hammer, the first is to take the hammer off of the firing pin, the second click unlocks the cylinder so that you can spin it for loading and unloading it, and the final click actually cocks the gun. The loading gate is not tied into the cylinder locking at all. With the new models the loading gate actually unlocks the cylinder. A converted 3 screw still has the old style loading, with the extra safety of a transfer bar. Without it being converted its best to just run with 5 bullets, with the transfer bar its safe with all 6. Personally, I don't mind just the 5, so I like old unconverted guns. But the transfer bar doesn't bug me either. I think the best thing you can do is dig around and see if you can find an example of a converted 3 screw, an unconverted 3 screw, and a 2 screw (new model). I doubt you will see much of a difference in the triggers. Yes, I would tend to agree with you that most of the hatred of the converted guns comes down to resistance to change. Although, there is also an extra collectibility in unconverted guns, not a whole lot though really. Oh, and I can't really speak to unconverting the gun. Honestly I don't see much of a point to doing so. I think a converted 3 screw is really sort of the best of both worlds.
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| # ? Jan 27, 2010 17:42 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:As I understand it they can take a bit more maintenance for the same reason that Smith and Wesson ever pinned their barrels. Over time you might have to check the cylinder gap, because it is set by screwing in the barrel. A bit of searching will get you some more information. I don't think it is an actual problem, just something to be aware of. It's recommended you check the gap and adjust every couple months or so, depending on how frequently you shoot. You can just do it whenever you clean the gun, it only takes a minute or so - it's no big deal.
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| # ? Jan 28, 2010 00:42 |
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I'm replacing the sights on my GP100 with Williams Firesights, and the rear sight is basically a replacement blade for the factory Ruger base. After I installed it I noticed there is a significant amount of play in the rear sight, I can make it yaw back and forth and it's really disconcerting. Are these sights supposed to be this loose or are they supposed to fit tight? My GP100 is used and didn't come with a rear sight blade in the base, so I have nothing to compare it to. Can anybody else with these firesights check and see if your rearsight wobbles back and forth?
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| # ? Jan 30, 2010 22:15 |
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Happy new gun day!
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| # ? Feb 1, 2010 18:54 |
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Nice. A .44 with a fluted cylinder. Elmer Keith is probably masturbating furiously.
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| # ? Feb 1, 2010 18:55 |
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Black Stormy posted:Happy new gun day!  You will have to report back on how you like it. I came to the conclusion that if I ever get another Blackhawk in .44 mag I will only shoot special out of it. The .44 magnum gets to be fed to my Redhawk.
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| # ? Feb 1, 2010 19:24 |
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Thanks. It popped up on the local board this weekend and I had to have it. It also came with a set of Hogue grips, a Belt Mountain locking base pin, and (get this) a homemade IWB holster. Why anyone would want to carry a single action revolver with a 5.5" barrel IWB is beyond me.
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| # ? Feb 1, 2010 20:09 |
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Black Stormy posted:Thanks. It popped up on the local board this weekend and I had to have it. It also came with a set of Abomination grips, a Belt Mountain locking base pin, and (get this) a homemade IWB holster. Why anyone would want to carry a single action revolver with a 5.5" barrel IWB is beyond me. Fixed that for you. Great purchase, I think you will love it. Shoot it with the standard grips before you try the abominations on it though.
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| # ? Feb 1, 2010 21:34 |
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Black Stormy posted:Happy new gun day! There is nothing wrong, at all, with this gun.
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| # ? Feb 1, 2010 21:43 |
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Happy beat rear end gun day!  
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 07:55 |
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So I have an Iver Johnson .22 Supershot Sealed Eight. It's a hell of a fun plinker, but the double action is completely unusable. Well I took the grip off of it for the first time tonight out of boredom and found it actually has a built in tension device that I need to lower. I tried to get the hammer out to remove the tension on the spring so I could do so, but was unable to figure out how to. I was able to remove the screw holding the hammer in place, but that was it. Anyone know how to do this? 
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 08:21 |
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hedgiejugglr posted:So I have an Iver Johnson .22 Supershot Sealed Eight. It's a hell of a fun plinker, but the double action is completely unusable. Wow, that thing looks to be in every way nearly identical to my H&R 999 (well, 'cept mechanically since the 999 is a 9 shot)
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 08:23 |
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hedgiejugglr posted:I was able to remove the screw holding the hammer in place, but that was it. Anyone know how to do this? 
king of the bongo fucked around with this message at Feb 2, 2010 around 10:03 |
| # ? Feb 2, 2010 10:00 |
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Miso Beno posted:Happy beat rear end gun day! That gun is awesome. It isn't stainless is it? That is just a complete lack of bluing on it?
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 14:38 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:That gun is awesome. It isn't stainless is it? That is just a complete lack of bluing on it? Some genius removed all of the bluing.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 17:26 |
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Miso Beno posted:Some genius removed all of the bluing. I hope you picked it up cheap? It's starting to look like a Ruger from 1878, I wonder if you could get a real antique looking finish on it?
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 17:35 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:I hope you picked it up cheap? I got more than a fair price. The trigger is fantastic, the lock work is nice and tight and the cylinder gap is quite low. I'll shove a feeler gauge in it later tonight to get an accurate count. I'm going to end up parkerizing it and throwing cheap wood grips on it when I get the time.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 21:12 |
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Miso Beno posted:I got more than a fair price. The trigger is fantastic, the lock work is nice and tight and the cylinder gap is quite low. I'll shove a feeler gauge in it later tonight to get an accurate count. I'm going to end up parkerizing it and throwing cheap wood grips on it when I get the time. Actual Ruger factory grips are super easy to find for those. It will be interesting to see how it comes out parked.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 21:29 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:Actual Ruger factory grips are super easy to find for those. It will be interesting to see how it comes out parked. CDNN has some SUPER cheap wood ones with medallions, I figure I'll draw up a proper order and just snag them in the process.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 21:42 |
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Miso Beno posted:CDNN has some SUPER cheap wood ones with medallions, I figure I'll draw up a proper order and just snag them in the process. DJ's by my place had 3 sets of them when I last dug through their grips box. I have seen quite a few $5 pairs at the shows. The factory grips are kind of small, I think most people have always hated them and slapped pachmayr grips on them as soon as they could. If you end up at the Puyallup show before you make that order I doubt you will have any trouble finding a super cheap set.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 21:45 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:DJ's by my place had 3 sets of them when I last dug through their grips box. I have seen quite a few $5 pairs at the shows. The factory grips are kind of small, I think most people have always hated them and slapped pachmayr grips on them as soon as they could. If you end up at the Puyallup show before you make that order I doubt you will have any trouble finding a super cheap set. The CDNN grips were kind of my last resort.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 21:52 |
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Woohoo! Got my $199 Austrian Customs S&W 64 today.  If only I hadn't left my camera at work. I could capture the horror. Overall it's in decent shape. But it looks like it spent the last thirty years being fired with lead round nose ammo, with red-sealed primers, and it was never cleaned or lubed. Ever. The front of the cylinder is black. The outside of the forcing cone is encrusted. The top strap, the cylinder crane, you name it, all covered with hardened carbon and lead deposits. You have to really push the cylinder to get it open. Everything squeaks when you work the action. There is rust. On a stainless gun. I know it's not impossible, but still. On the other hand, I think it will clean up very nicely. The timing looks good, and the lockup is tight with no end shake. 
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 22:35 |
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infrared35 posted:Woohoo! Got my $199 Austrian Customs S&W 64 today.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 22:37 |
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Miso Beno posted:Is it DA/SA and did you snag it off of FunBroker? Yes and yes.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 23:05 |
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How do they remove horrible leading? Do they brush the crusted areas with mercury and let it sit, or are there less toxic ways now?
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 23:26 |
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| # ? May 26, 2013 02:20 |
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EndofGoogle posted:How do they remove horrible leading? Do they brush the crusted areas with mercury and let it sit, or are there less toxic ways now? Apparently there's a lead-remover cloth that supposed to be the bizzle, but you're only supposed to use it on stainless guns.
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| # ? Feb 2, 2010 23:36 |
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