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Mr. Funny Pants's father-in-law helped me expand my .41mag collection (and my bigass revolver collection) with a 8 3/8" mod 657. lovely cell phone family photo: I mounted the PA micro red dot on the 657 so I can use the 657 for nighttime pig hunting.
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| # ? Jul 1, 2010 16:12 |
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| # ? May 23, 2013 18:51 |
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kwantam posted:Mr. Funny Pants's father-in-law helped me expand my .41mag collection (and my bigass revolver collection) with a 8 3/8" mod 657. lovely cell phone family photo:  Oh, I have such plans for my revolver collection, now that I fully understand what a majestic round the .41mag is.
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| # ? Jul 1, 2010 16:21 |
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Dad just picked up a smith three screw 44mag for $525. Lucky bastard, even has a 4" barrel on it.
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| # ? Jul 1, 2010 17:09 |
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My "project" Rossi 68 shipped! YAY! UPS says it was delivered YAY! DELIVERY: PORCH YA... Waitaminnit, it's a *firearm*, did they just dump'n'depart?  Haven't heard from my FFL yet. Hope this isn't a bad sign...
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| # ? Jul 1, 2010 17:23 |
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So here is the situation: I have a Taurus .44 magnum, six inch ported barrel revolver, not sure the model number. It was my going-away present from my squad when I got out of the army, problem is, its too drat expensive to shoot, and it turns out that I am terrible with it (as in, I need to practice). I'd like to pick up a .357 revolver to practice with, but my budget is very limited. My main problem with the Taurus is that my little finger doesn't really fit on the grip very well, and I think that I am flinching a lot. So in looking for a .357, I'd like something with a longer grip, if possible. Any suggestions from the wheel gun gods? Edit for pic of the wheel gun discussed, and its brother.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Rubber Ducky fucked around with this message at Jul 2, 2010 around 00:10 |
| # ? Jul 1, 2010 23:44 |
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Rubber Ducky posted:So here is the situation: while I love .357, I'd suggest a .22 to get your revolver shooting mechanics down...a S&W 617 would own. if you can't shoot one of those, something is wrong with you
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| # ? Jul 1, 2010 23:51 |
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I got my holster for my S&W model 66 today form Side Guard Holster. http://www.sideguardholsters.com/  I also got one for my Taurus 605  they are well made and ride nice. I'll do a full write up in the holster review thread. it cost just under 110 for both and look 6 or 7 weeks from when I placed the order to delivery
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| # ? Jul 1, 2010 23:52 |
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Rubber Ducky posted:So here is the situation: Jeezus christ, you have some big fuckoff hands!! In all seriousness, you have some options available to you. As others have said, get a .22 revolver for practice. The problem you will have if the Taurus is too small, most of the stock 22 revolvers will be too small. 1) Get new grips for that taurus, ones that fit you better. Cost will be anywhere from $20 for rubber grips to $50+ for wood ones 2) Practice with .44 Special rounds. These are common at gun shops, not common at wally-world, etc. This is the .38 special equivalent of the .44 magnum. You have some low powered options to cure your flinching. Yes, practicing with .44mag is not my favorite thing to do, so I wuss out and go for the .44spl. Consider reloading as practice with center-fire rimmed cartridge is somewhat more costly than their autoloader counterparts. I do enjoy the big loving boom of the full-house .44 loads. 3) Replace the gun with an N or L Frame Smith and Wesson in .357 (models 686/586 or 327/27/627) but you are going to take an absolute bath on trade-in/resale value. If this gun has any sentimental value, do not sell this gun. My suggestion is more along the lines of #1 and #2. Fit the gun to your hands and shoot lower power loads. The .44 spl is a NICE round to shoot, especially the loads mimicking the .44 Russian (246gr lead round nose @ 800 fps) vs the .44 Mag (240gr @ 1400 fps). Also, get into reloading if you are shooting rimmed centerfire.
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| # ? Jul 2, 2010 00:24 |
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I don't know what it is, my hands aren't that big. The .45 fits perfect, with my little finger right at the edge of the grip, hanging over maybe 1/4 its width, and its about the same with the Taurus, but on that one it wants to slide off the end, where as with the .45 it stays put. I've looked for grips for the .44, but haven't really found all that much that looks like it would be helpful, although I did see the hogue big butt wood grips that looked nice, although I am not sure if they are available for this model of Taurus. I like what your saying about the .44 special stuff though, I'll look into that. How much does it cost to get started reloading any way? Just rough estimates of course. Thanks for all the help, TFR to the rescue again! Bonus pick of my grabber and its retarded little finger action. As you can see from the pic, that stupid little bastard wants to slip off the end there.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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| # ? Jul 2, 2010 00:44 |
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Aahhh, ok... I think I see something.... 1) Choke up on that grip. You are shooting a revolver, not an autoloader. You will NOT get slide-bite. Since its dark and I take horrible pictures, try this for your grip. (unload the gun) Place your palm, open face, with your thumb straight up and all fingers together, (sorta like you're going to make a shadow-puppet of a dog). The web of your thumb will wrap around the grip, your thumb and index finger will wrap around parallel on the frame, right under the cylinder. Grip the gun naturally at this point, your thumb can come down and follow the contours of the grip. Your index finger will now go in the trigger guard and presumably your little finger will now rest comfortably on the grip. Basically, get your grip higher on the pistol, your picture doesnt seem quite correct for a revolver grip. This is NOT an autoloader, the slide will not fly back, the hammer will not fly back, you will not tear up your hand. This should improve your shooting, reduce the felt recoil, and make it a bit more enjoyable (get some .44 spl for max enjoyment). My grip on a revolver has the webbing of my thumb up to the cylinder release, choke up on that bad-boy and let fly. If I emulate your grip on my N-frame, I get the same pinky falling off the grip crap. If I had to "get into reloading" for a single caliber, it would be $200 for a single-stage press kit, $50/die set, another $100 for misc poo poo, and another $150 for lumber to make a big reloading table. You won't "save" money, because any monetary per/round savings will simply allow you to shoot more, but you can make some sweet rounds that are tailored for your gun and your style. Last edit, I promise. When you wrap your support hand around, do NOT extend that index finger forward of that cylinder. The hot gasses escaping WILL burn. Wrap that supporting index-finger around the front of the trigger guard. The following link is an extreme example of what I am describing:  Don't loving do this
Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at Jul 2, 2010 around 01:22 |
| # ? Jul 2, 2010 01:00 |
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Ok, I'll give that a go on my next range trip. It does seem a little odd though, as it places the trigger pull motion out of true with the finger doing the pulling.. Not sure I'm explaining that coherently or not. Willing to give most anything a try though. Thanks for the advice!
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| # ? Jul 2, 2010 01:46 |
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Cheap Bourbon posted:2) Practice with .44 Special rounds. These are common at gun shops, not common at wally-world, etc. This is the .38 special equivalent of the .44 magnum. You have some low powered options to cure your flinching. Yes, practicing with .44mag is not my favorite thing to do, so I wuss out and go for the .44spl. Consider reloading as practice with center-fire rimmed cartridge is somewhat more costly than their autoloader counterparts. I do enjoy the big loving boom of the full-house .44 loads. This is a great idea, especially the handloading part. I've done a bit of experimenting with target .44mag loads because my .44mag is a S&W airweight and I can only shoot about two cylinders of full house loads before my hand is too numb to continue safely. I've posted some results in the reloading thread, but the upshot is that 7gr of Bullseye over a large pistol primer with a standard 240gr jacketed bullet is a very nice "hot .44spl" load that is very very easy to control, even with my insanely light gun. You could definitely go hotter (check the books for max load! can't remember it off the top of my head) or use more of a slower powder without serious discomfort.
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| # ? Jul 2, 2010 03:08 |
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I just came into possession of S&W Model 28. Working on getting some pictures for a box thread, but I have a question. This particular gun has a serial S 324XXX, marked MOD. 28-2. Does anyone know about when this gun was made? EDIT: Ok, did some digging, looks like this is a late 1968 or early 1969 gun. funkyaintit fucked around with this message at Jul 2, 2010 around 04:08 |
| # ? Jul 2, 2010 03:59 |
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Cheap Bourbon posted:If I had to "get into reloading" for a single caliber, it would be $200 for a single-stage press kit, $50/die set, another $100 for misc poo poo, and another $150 for lumber to make a big reloading table. You won't "save" money, because any monetary per/round savings will simply allow you to shoot more, but you can make some sweet rounds that are tailored for your gun and Just wanted to toss out that a good press can be had for $60 used and die sets go for $30 at Bass Pro Shops. It's not cheap to reload, but it's not too expensive either. Totally recommended for making tailored rounds.
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| # ? Jul 2, 2010 04:43 |
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stgdz posted:Dad just picked up a smith three screw 44mag for $525. Lucky bastard, even has a 4" barrel on it. Since no one commented on this yet... Lucky bastard indeed. Where'd he snag that deal at? What kind of condition is it in?
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| # ? Jul 2, 2010 06:32 |
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Rubber Ducky posted:Ok, I'll give that a go on my next range trip. It does seem a little odd though, as it places the trigger pull motion out of true with the finger doing the pulling.. Not sure I'm explaining that coherently or not. Willing to give most anything a try though. Thanks for the advice! I think I get what you're saying, but if you try it out I think you'll find that your trigger pull will still be "true" due to the rest of your hand being at a slight angle. It'll be even clearer in SA, the trigger goes quite far back when cocked. When I shoot DA the hammer just touches the web of my hand.
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| # ? Jul 2, 2010 09:10 |
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The Rossi was actually delivered properly ( UPS!), and surprise! It actually has the sideplate... well, *a* sideplate, which almost fits. :| Screw-holes line up, so I can fiddle the rest. Also has an extra trigger, a hammer and a mainspring/mainspring shaft (rod? stick?), which were the other glaringly-obvious missing parts from the auction pic. (Grips, too, but I've got those covered.) Mostly-assembled as well, which meant that I immediately had to figure out how to install the crane.  After adding the hammer, everything mostly works - obviously, the hammer has to either drop by gravity or (occasionally) be thumbed back down; I suspect I need to *lightly and carefully* clean up the clockworkery, or maybe it'll clear up with the sideplate screwed in  Cylinder has some external minor rust, and the sandblasted frame still has a few small pits from rust... I might have to get a dremel after all, to polish the exterior smooth'n'pretty before I gently caress up the new finish. I also have to spend time googlin' around to find out what size brass stock I have to buy to make a rear-sight blade out of. ("No longer available", on a late '70s/early-to-mid '80s gun, no surprise there.) I can probably fake the grips with duct tape and rubber bands  if I have to, but the sideplate screws are needed for sure, and the mainspring swivel, which keeps the mainspring from wandering off all untensioned through the mainspring support piece. I might be able to fake that with an acorn nut drilled through for shaft clearance, though. Timing looks good to me, based on what I see on the Webley, the Rugers and my FIE sixgun. The cylinder gap looks OK, I guess, but I have to doublecheck the Ron Mexico guide to be sure. If my parts are in today or tomorrow (depending on shipping), I might even be able to take it out and UPDATE! The parts kit was here when I got home! First thing I tried was the sideplate - only to discover that yes, it *was * possible to fit even more badly than the one I already had. <sigh> Got to do a cylinder swap immediately, as the new one had the proper-length extractor rod for the 3-inch barrel. Hey, maybe swapping the hammer would be a good idea too! No. Without the mainspring, both hammers function OK, but once there's tension, the new hammer will cock. And can't be released. Cue popping the sideplate off and *carefully* slipping the hammer off its pivot-pin, so as not to end up chasing mainspring, shaft and swivel across the room.Back to the old hammer, and... my, that's a lot of trigger-pull. 8-10 pounds maybe more, certainly worse than the Llama was when I first got it. Lemme try single-action... uhm, single-action *should* be lighter than double-action correct? I seem to have to readjust my grip to get more leverage on the trigger to make the hammer drop - there's drat near no travel at that point, either. I'm beginning to suspect that the previous owner couldn't find a Model 68 parts kit originally, and "fitted" one from a later model (possibly a Rossi 88 - I know one of the baggies that came with the gun had a note with that designation). If it was doing this for him, I can see why he's be willing to ditch it cheap. (That would also explain the extra grind marks on some parts, and possibly why the hammer doesn't want to reset all the way sometimes.) I'll probably spend a good part of this weekend googling How Wheelguns Work and staring at the parts trying to figure out what does which and why. However, it *works*. Not very well, but it doesn't *not* work. Ygolonac fucked around with this message at Jul 3, 2010 around 06:25 |
| # ? Jul 2, 2010 18:00 |
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Hrrm. With the original hammer, trigger and... uhm, reset spring thing, I get DA/SA, with hideous triggerpull even in SA (trigger-not-moving ever levels, single-action.) Swapping with a different hammer gives me.. total lockup to where I have to take off the sideplate and pry the hammer out again. The second hammer, with matching trigger and reset thing, gives me... well, DA rotates the cylinder, but the hammer doesn't move. SA rotates the cylinder *and* gives me feather-touch release (measured in ounces, at best). Even better: gave it a test run today, using PMC Bronze 158-grain non-+P FMJ. Out of the six rounds attempted, five took multiple strikes. Two out of six fired (#2 took two strikes, and was out of the other end of the box). Both the ones that fired blew the primer entirely out of the pocket and impaled it on the firing pin.  I rather suspect this will be an *ongoing* project... sza (on IRC) narrowed it down to the hammer nose bushing being missing - which leave a bigger-than-the-primer divot in the breechface facing the primer.  Numrich is out, trying another place, but I expect I might have to ask on Rossi-specific forums. He also suggested "sending it back for repair", on a bubbaed-by-the-previous-owner Rossi made in 1979. Yeah, I don't think so.)Ygolonac fucked around with this message at Jul 6, 2010 around 01:59 |
| # ? Jul 6, 2010 01:05 |
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I finally got around to parkerizing my Ruger Security Six.  Before   After e:downs Miso Beno fucked around with this message at Jul 8, 2010 around 12:38 |
| # ? Jul 8, 2010 07:41 |
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That looks good, dude!
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| # ? Jul 8, 2010 09:07 |
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Miso Beno posted:I finally got around to parkerizing my Ruger Security Six. This looks great, you did a really nice job on it.
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| # ? Jul 8, 2010 11:57 |
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Miso Beno posted:I finally got around to parkerizing my Ruger Security Six. That looks nice. Did you do it your self? Can we get some more shots at different angles?
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| # ? Jul 8, 2010 15:06 |
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Miso Beno posted:I finally got around to parkerizing my Ruger Security Six. I know it was difficult son, but you did the right thing.
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| # ? Jul 8, 2010 15:27 |
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Miso Beno posted:
I must admit, that did turn out pretty nice. you get the other issues with it resolved?
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| # ? Jul 8, 2010 15:31 |
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Rubber Ducky posted:Ok, I'll give that a go on my next range trip. It does seem a little odd though, as it places the trigger pull motion out of true with the finger doing the pulling.. Not sure I'm explaining that coherently or not. Willing to give most anything a try though. Thanks for the advice! Try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHD6JJFQ2WM
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| # ? Jul 8, 2010 17:01 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:I must admit, that did turn out pretty nice. after disassembling and reassembling the crane the end shake came within acceptable limits.
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| # ? Jul 8, 2010 17:08 |
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Miso Beno posted:I finally got around to parkerizing my Ruger Security Six. How do you keep the park out of the barrel and cylinders? Or does that even matter?
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| # ? Jul 8, 2010 18:40 |
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QuarkMartial posted:How do you keep the park out of the barrel and cylinders? Or does that even matter? You have to plug the barrel and bore or else your accuracy goes to poop. e: pulphero posted:That looks nice. Did you do it your self? Can we get some more shots at different angles? Yes I parkerized it myself, you can check out my guide on parkerizing over here, and I'll take photos of the gun before I head off to the range. e2:   got lazy. Miso Beno fucked around with this message at Jul 9, 2010 around 04:57 |
| # ? Jul 8, 2010 18:53 |
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iyaayas01 posted:Since no one commented on this yet... like I said lucky bastard
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| # ? Jul 9, 2010 16:55 |
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 Snakes...why did it have to be snakes...   I'm not usually one to post my roscoes, but I'm kinda fond of my latest acquisition so I thought I'd share. 1959 6" Python. Also my first attempt at staging a gun pic with props. And yes I know the Indiana thing would make more sense if this was a Colt Cobra. Screw you guys.  VVVV Thanks! Snatched it off Gunbroker. I'd been keeping a search results window open for like 3 weeks, refreshing it constantly. This one popped up with a nice buy-it-now price. I'm the second owner. LifeSizePotato fucked around with this message at Jul 9, 2010 around 21:53 |
| # ? Jul 9, 2010 20:12 |
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LifeSizePotato posted:
That is a drat fine handgun. Where did you get it?
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| # ? Jul 9, 2010 20:16 |
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I was momentarily excited at seeing this pop on ClassicArms: MODEL 1882 SWISS REVOLVER I was somehow hoping they'd be like $150 or something, but they're like $699, so more than I'm willing to play for a curio. I do love early DA revo designs though.
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| # ? Jul 9, 2010 21:42 |
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 I NEED to find this barrel for my dad's Dan Wesson.
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| # ? Jul 10, 2010 03:57 |
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MazeOfTzeentch posted:
Keep an eye on Gunbroker, spare barrels occasionally come up for auction there.
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| # ? Jul 10, 2010 12:45 |
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http://www.cabelas.com/p-0036661.shtml holy shiiiit 
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| # ? Jul 10, 2010 17:39 |
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Capn Beeb posted:http://www.cabelas.com/p-0036661.shtml That pegs the awesome-o-meter! Doubleplusgood: you can use the trigger guard as a toothpick.
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| # ? Jul 10, 2010 18:10 |
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MazeOfTzeentch posted:
Does the new Batman have an plane? 
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| # ? Jul 11, 2010 01:33 |
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Capn Beeb posted:holy shiiiit 
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| # ? Jul 11, 2010 01:37 |
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LifeSizePotato posted:VVVV I gots to know..... More than 1k, less than 2k, or are there still good deals to be had on a colt of that condition?
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| # ? Jul 11, 2010 04:06 |
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| # ? May 23, 2013 18:51 |
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Cheap Bourbon posted:I gots to know..... I paid $1600 for this one at 99%+ condition. I'd be surprised if it had more than 50 rounds through it. In general, for a pristine example I'd say you're looking at at least $1300 for a somewhat less desirable 80s model, and it gets more expensive the older they get (1950s models especially command a premium as they were all still 100% hand-machined/fitted...and the grips alone sell for $250+) and if they come with the original packaging, you could be spending $2500 or more. That's not to say there aren't deals out there, especially on less-than-perfect examples. A guy on another forum somehow came across a ~90% 1968 for $500 the other day, which is just crazy, and I've found a couple pretty good later production ones for $900-1k or so.
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| # ? Jul 12, 2010 02:32 |
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