|
Mishaco posted:I have a 686 4" for being all steel. No, this one will be a J frame of some kind for sure. You need heavy enough bullets for the super-lightweight scandium frame smiths. I don't know if the problem is bullet mass or length, but with sub-125-grain bullets it's possible for .357 magnum recoil to cause the projectile to become unseated and in severe cases may jam up the cylinder. Personally I'd go with the 342. If you ever feel like shooting .357 just have someone smack the palm of your hand briskly with something metal.
|
| # ? Dec 1, 2011 08:47 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2013 08:43 |
|
|
Mishaco posted:Well, when my wife got home last night i had her read the actual label on the box. Very cool, also I would go for the 342, I don't even want the option of shooting 357 out of a gun that light plus I think that M&P 342 is a neater gun.
|
| # ? Dec 1, 2011 16:30 |
|
|
I appreciate all the input and no, i've not decided yet haha. Here are some things though; Both guns seem to have an aluminium/scandium alloy frame. Yes i know the 342TI and the 342PD did not--they just had aluminium. The reason i think perhaps the M&P342 has an AL/SC frame is laziness. Really it seems like S&W just took a standard M&P340 and swapped the .357 bored cylinder for one just bored for .38 Spl, to satisfy the LAPD. So both guns should/probably have the same benefits/drawbacks of the alloy. That said, it seems like bullet jump isn't so much caused by the frame as it is the cylinder. 3xx series pistols with an AL/SC frame and SS cylinder do not have the 120g or greater warning on the barrel and i could find only 1 case of someone saying they experienced a bullet unseating with say a M&P360. Now, when you go over to the titanium cylinder, cases of people reporting the jump go up but still aren't very high once you remove led bullets and handloads with light crimps from the equation. So here are my thoughts; M&P342 + aluminium frame & steel cylinder - makes for a light 13.3 ozs while still not having some exautic cylinder metal. We know steel will last on us. + SX night sight + raised rear notch. Might add a hair of bulk to the gun but people report much easier sight picture acquision. + Better styling in my opinion than the 442/642 and seems more durable with a shrouded ejector. - Fires only .38 +P. Sorry but have to give this one a negative. I would probably never ever shoot .357 Mag out of a J frame but its nice to know you 'could' and it really helps with resale. The M&P342 is only 2 oz less than a 442 and fires the same ammo but costs $200 more. Though part of that cost is better sights and the above design benefits. - the M&P342, at least this one here has a pretty stiff trigger. I know it will lighten up over time and it is smooth. I also know a friend/gunsmith who works on L and J frames all the time that could make the trigger better, but still tahts $50 more into the gun. - M&P342 comes in a cardboard box, not plastic and is factory new. I put this as a minus because as soon as i fire it, i lower its value. M340PD + pretty much as light as you can go at between 11.1 oz and 12.1 oz depending on grip type. If nothing else its novel and comfy to carry, under a pound fully loaded. + you may never ever want to shoot .357 out of a sub-lb revolver, but its nice to know you could if you had to and it definitely is a resale plus no matter what. Even though the gun is a magnum, its no bigger or heavier than a 342TI, which is discontinued anyway. + Has the slightly more desirable fiber-optic low-light sight. Not as good as a SX night sight, but better than a red-ramp. Plus you never have to bother with replacing the sight after say 8 years. + Same frame design as the M&P342 including shrouded ejector and lanyard pin. + Its a demo gun so technically used. I wouldn't really be lowering the value by shooting it or carrying it for 6 months or whatever. - the whole scandium and titanium thing has an unknown service life. I've read reports of warping of the frame after only 1k rounds and i've read guys saying they've put over 3k through theirs and no problems. It seems like the earlier SC/TI guns from 2005-2006 had the most problems and that by 2011 S&W might have slipped in some product improvements. The discontinuing of the 342 series does lead one to feel like S&W has enough faith in the 340/360 line or they would have kept the 342 around, which had a plain old aluminium frame. Still...i know steel will be around, and i only hope SC/TI will be. - No matter how you try and couch it, .357 out of a sub-pound gun is 100% brutal and even rediculous. Firing standard magnum loads is pointless with a 1.8" barrel. They do make 2" barrel .357 special mag load though that claim to perform better but could just be marketing. Really .38 +P is the wisest course of action here. Its still more powerful than say a .380, but still has 'ok' recoil out of a j frame. - Also no matter how you try and avoid it, that little 120g or heavier warning on the barrel does mean something. It seems to only apply to .357 loads though, not .38 Spl. - even though the 340PD is used technically, i could probably sell it faster than the NIB M&P342....or maybe not. Sometimes things like that surprise. There are several 340PDs on GB for $650-$900 but not any M&P342s so i don't know their going rate. What to do...the two are very similar honestly. One is a bit lighter and 'can' fire a .357 while the other has a solid and reliable steel cylinder and better sights (or not better depending on your outlook).
|
| # ? Dec 1, 2011 18:02 |
|
|
GP100 buddies! Have any of you used a Wolff spring pack to lighten or otherwise customize the trigger of your GP100? I'm already ordering a pack for my Jericho, because its DA action is heavier than my revolver, but I wondered if I should just get a Ruger spring pack, too. I like the trigger enough as it is, but I want to know if anyone'd done this and would recommend this route, if the trigger can become wow-awesome?
|
| # ? Dec 2, 2011 19:02 |
|
|
SadWhaleFamily posted:GP100 buddies! Have any of you used a Wolff spring pack to lighten or otherwise customize the trigger of your GP100? I'm already ordering a pack for my Jericho, because its DA action is heavier than my revolver, but I wondered if I should just get a Ruger spring pack, too. I know Schigolch really loves his, and I'm getting springs in for mine tomorrow or Saturday (they shipped Tuesday). I've done a mainspring swap on my Beretta 92, and the results were quite good.
|
| # ? Dec 2, 2011 19:08 |
|
|
SadWhaleFamily posted:GP100 buddies! Have any of you used a Wolff spring pack to lighten or otherwise customize the trigger of your GP100? I'm already ordering a pack for my Jericho, because its DA action is heavier than my revolver, but I wondered if I should just get a Ruger spring pack, too. Did it to my SP101 and it turned the trigger completely wow-awesome. I see no reason why it wouldn't do the same to a GP100. Plus it's not complicated or difficult to install or reverse if you dont like it for some reason.
|
| # ? Dec 2, 2011 21:54 |
|
|
Alright, i have come to a J frame decision. The M&P342 and the 340PD are exactly the same gun, except the 340PD weighs about 2 oz lighter and 'could' be fired with .357 ammunition if you ever just had to. So i have decided to go with it. If i shoot .38 Spl out of it, i have lost nothing, except 2 oz. The M&P is a really nice gun but I can not take advantage of its better sights and also its new. The 340PD is used, so me shooting it won't decrease the value. In otherwords, if 6 months later i had the M&P and wanted to sell it, i'd most likely loose money or at most break even. On the otherhand, i got the 340PD at a decent price and if 6 months later it no longer interests me, i could sell it for a modest profit. Plus, the 340PD comes in a decent S&W label hardcase and the M&P comes just in the newer cardboard foldout box. I admit its a nice box, as far as cardboard boxes go; lots of layers including one of fome and one of cheese paper around the actual weapon. So there are my reasons. I have put my Ultra-compact Bantom grips on the 340PD and like the results. The Hogue Bantoms that come on the 342 are great, but meant for a slightly larger hand than my own. The slightly smaller UC Bantoms fit me just that little bit better. Plus hey, the 340PD still has a lanyard pin! Thank you again all for your help.
|
| # ? Dec 2, 2011 22:03 |
|
|
Sixgun Strumpet posted:Did it to my SP101 and it turned the trigger completely wow-awesome. I see no reason why it wouldn't do the same to a GP100. Plus it's not complicated or difficult to install or reverse if you dont like it for some reason. Whelp I'm sold. I'm just going to go for the spring packs with multiple hammer and trigger return weights for all my springs. Once I figure out which one I like, I'll PIF the rest.
|
| # ? Dec 2, 2011 22:11 |
|
|
So considering that the heavy, stacky trigger pull on my Model 19 appears to be caused by the cylinder replacement job the factory did, is it worth it even trying to install a Wilson Combat spring kit? Or should I use the kit on one of my nicer guns? Edit: Haha! Too late, suckers. Into the Model 19 it went. I am really glad I bought that rebound spring tool. Also, the thing was missing one of the sideplate screws - the one under the grips.  The trigger is a lot better now, but it does still stack on two out of six trigger pulls. The cylinder lockup is noticeably tighter when the trigger gets that way. Just a bad cut on the index notches on the extractor star?Edit 2: and only one blood blister! infrared35 fucked around with this message at Dec 3, 2011 around 03:12 |
| # ? Dec 2, 2011 23:58 |
|
|
FINALLY got to take my High Standard Double Nine to the range today. Good lord the DA pull is hideous. However, the gun itself was very fun to shoot and dead on accurate for being a Sears special and over 40 years old when fired in SA.
|
| # ? Dec 3, 2011 21:32 |
|
|
I ran about fifty rounds through the Model 19 after the trigger job. It fired Blazer aluminum just fine, and it ran my reloads fine. I did have one round of my reloads that took a second time under the hammer to set off, so I might add a quarter turn to the tension screw just to be safe. Also I put 36 rounds of various ammo through the 625 with zero issues.  Well, except Wolf was really hard to eject. 
|
| # ? Dec 4, 2011 01:22 |
|
|
Shot my 340PD today. Only had 20 rds of .38 left but that was ok. I put 10 rds through it, my dad did 5, and Fell did 5. Honestly? I think firing it is fun. Eventually, i will have to try .357 in it...once....maybe....with a glove on, but .38 Spl was fine with me. My palm didn't hurt at all and i didn't have trouble keeping it on target. It was loving loud though. Probably because we were shooting it from just inside my dad's metal shop building, since it was raining outside. Good god i am glad i had ear pro. Even if you didn't actually hit your attacker with the bullets, i think the noise would have his ears bleeding at least. Neat gun, i like it!
|
| # ? Dec 4, 2011 01:33 |
|
|
Sixgun Strumpet posted:Did it to my SP101 and it turned the trigger completely wow-awesome. I see no reason why it wouldn't do the same to a GP100. Plus it's not complicated or difficult to install or reverse if you dont like it for some reason. Yeah my SP101 with the new action springs is a dream.
|
| # ? Dec 4, 2011 03:30 |
|
|
Bigass Moth posted:FINALLY got to take my High Standard Double Nine to the range today. Good lord the DA pull is hideous. However, the gun itself was very fun to shoot and dead on accurate for being a Sears special and over 40 years old when fired in SA. For what it is worth I have yet to find a .22 revolver with a DA pull that was actually anything I might consider nice. The spring just has to be stronger then center fire guns. It's part of why I like Single Sixes, if I shoot my .22 revolver in single action anyway, why not just have a single action?
|
| # ? Dec 4, 2011 04:43 |
|
|
Depending on mood, finances and local availability, I'd like to get a 38spl snubbie for pocket carry for quick trips and such. Love me some S&Ws, and I'd like to get one, but I'm also considering the LCR. so what's the basic info on the LCR? From what I gather it's a lightweight (polymer?) revolver. It looks small (j-frame sized?) and light (like an airweight S&W). It'd be for plinking with 38 reloads (powderpuff Trail Boss reloads) and occasional pocket carry (just grabbing and going for a quick trip to the store, etc). now if I ould get a steel j-frame in my hands for 350 or less I'd be all over that.
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 20:43 |
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:Depending on mood, finances and local availability, I'd like to get a 38spl snubbie for pocket carry for quick trips and such. Love me some S&Ws, and I'd like to get one, but I'm also considering the LCR. LCR is super light and cheap for what it is. The trigger is better then many of the new S&W J-Frames in my opinion (although some of the old ones still seem better to me). Honestly I think the LCR is perfect for what it is, the Glock of the pocket revolvers. S&Ws competitive offering (the Bodyguard) is just gimmicky poo poo. The Ruger feels solid even though it is plastic, the S&W doesn't. The Ruger has a classic cylinder release, the S&W relocated it to a completely unintuitive place and somehow managed to make it feel like it is just as likely to break off as it is to open the cylinder. The S&W comes with a laser, pew pew. If you want a cheap pocket gun and a laser is all you really care about go with the S&W. If you aren't prone to buying gimmicky bullshit and want a good cheap and light pocket revolver with a good trigger go for the LCR. If you just have a hard-on for snubbies and don't mind a little extra weight in the holster on your belt, see if you can't find a used pre-lock J-Frame. Many of them have fantastic triggers and can be had for sub-$300 with a lot of looking. They also tend to hold their value extremely well, unlike any brand new gun you might be picking up. Edit: Just a note my carry gun is a stainless J-Frame with a bobbed hammer that I picked up with 3 sets of grips and 2 holsters for $250 at a gun show. Couldn't be happier with it. Takes a bit of looking but the other 2 I have bought were for $300 each, one at a gun show and one in a parking lot (not as shady as it sounds, was in a gun store and was getting into my car when a guy and his wife were leaving it unhappy with the offers they just got on Grandpa's guns). Sixgun Strumpet fucked around with this message at Dec 5, 2011 around 21:50 |
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 21:47 |
|
|
I must agree that i like the Ruger LCR over the S&W Bodyguard 38, but i like the 342/442/642 J frames more than either. I really dislike the cylinder release on the Bodyguard...not sure if it would break off or not, but i am quite sure i would hit it accidently while trying to draw the weapon. The one's i've handled actually had decent DAO triggers, but that was about the only thing i liked about them. Though i can't personally use a laser, i dislike the placement of the switch for it and just how they made it. I like pressure switches, not toggles. The Ruger LCR is a good little gun. Trigger is also nice out of the box and it does feel more 'substantual' than the Bodyguard. The grips seem a bit big for me and not many aftermarket offerings to replace them...yet. Its a bit larger than a J frame i feel; or maybe its just the grips that make me feel that way. I have now settled on my choice for a pocket revolver; as is evidenced from my posts earlier in the thread. Its a J frame 340PD and the only reason i popped for it was i scored it used for an acceptable price. Otherwise, i'd have gone with a 442 or 642 Airweight. I had a bunch of the Airweights in, but actually now I am down to only a couple. I think i did post them in the Classifieds...i only say this because their prices were exactly the price you mentioned. Mine are no-lock models too. So yeah; i'd either go Ruger LCR or S&W 442/642 (depending on colour you like). Skip the Bodyguard 38.
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 23:58 |
|
|
Thanks for the info guys. Just wanted to know a little more about it. I'll probably just wait and snag a deal on a S&W since I'm not in a huge hurry to get one. E: Also, Winchester 44 Special Cowboy Loads (whatever the hell they are called) are ridiculously soft shooting. I only got to shoot a couple cylinder's worth, but the difference between them and 44 magnum loads is astounding. QuarkMartial fucked around with this message at Dec 6, 2011 around 02:15 |
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 01:03 |
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:time for some pretty wood grips for my Redhawk... I'd rather have something nicer looking. 
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 13:51 |
|
|
Uncle Caveman posted:reeeeepost of encouragement I know I asked you before somewhere (not in this thread, I checked!), but what are those? We could be some sort of Redhawk Ebony and Ivory 
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 00:20 |
|
|
Rosewood oversize from Eagle Grips. I'd have gotten checkered if it was an option. 
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 02:07 |
|
|
Uncle Caveman posted:Rosewood oversize from Eagle Grips. I'd have gotten checkered if it was an option. Awesome. Thanks! Checkered is usually the way to go... Smooth looks so pretty, but the checkered has more utility. These look really sweet, too. Someone has a set on their revolver here, but damned if I can remember who it is or where the picture is.
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 02:47 |
|
|
Regarding tiny revolvers: shot an LCR and hated it. Good trigger, but hated the way it felt in my hand under recoil. That said, I shoot really well with a S&W Model 60 given the gun's size. If the additional weight gain of the stainless revolver over polymer isn't a big issue, I'd opt for that.
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 03:44 |
|
|
Never actually shot an LCR; just handling and dry fire. Hey, i still have 1 442 (No Lock) left and i might be able to scare up a 638. The 442 weighs in at about 13-14oz depending on who you ask.
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 03:58 |
|
|
Hey S&W dudes, could somebody please identify the date of manufacture of a model 10-5, serial D702***? Also, it is stamped on the left side of the frame under the cylinder "NPD 28". I'm guessing that's a police department stamp? I wonder who issued my new snubnose model 10?
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 05:06 |
|
|
hangedman posted:Regarding tiny revolvers: shot an LCR and hated it. Good trigger, but hated the way it felt in my hand under recoil. That said, I shoot really well with a S&W Model 60 given the gun's size. If the additional weight gain of the stainless revolver over polymer isn't a big issue, I'd opt for that. I carry a model 60 with a bobbed hammer and a pair of after market grips, I love shooting it.  The 1950s Pre-Model 42 on the other hand could use some T-Grips which I haven't gotten around to ordering yet. Carbohydrates posted:Hey S&W dudes, could somebody please identify the date of manufacture of a model 10-5, serial D702***? I would but I loaned my book out.
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 12:44 |
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:These look really sweet, too.  Regardless, I've always wanted to learn how to checker grips & stocks. I think I'll practice on the factory RH wood grips...
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 13:23 |
|
|
Sixgun Strumpet posted:I would but I loaned my book out. I'll check later, if I can remember that long.  NPD might be Newark, or it might be Nashua or Nanticoke or Norcross or Norwalk. If you were willing to pay for the S&W certification letter, they might be able to pin it down for you.
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 13:26 |
|
|
Carbohydrates posted:Hey S&W dudes, could somebody please identify the date of manufacture of a model 10-5, serial D702***? Internet search found k-frame serials: D659.902 – D75000………..Late 1974 – Early 1975
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 13:51 |
|
|
Uncle Caveman posted:If Nill offered a set w/o finger grooves, I'd be all over it. Actually, what I really really wish is that Ruger offered some oversize target grips for the Redhawk in the same pattern as its little brother: Nill has tons of options for the GP100/Super Redhawk, though.
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 18:03 |
|
|
thermobollocks posted:Nill has [url="http://"""]tons of options[/url] for the GP100/Super Redhawk, though. That's the one real advantage of the Super RH. The grip peg opens the door to tons of different grip shapes and styles. I think I'm going to try and rustle up some S&W coke bottle style grips for the RH.
|
| # ? Dec 7, 2011 18:25 |
|
|
I posted a lovely picture of it a while back, but here's a better picture of my S&W Stealth Hunter. So much fun to shoot, but I need to get a custom holster made for it.
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 11:14 |
|
|
So, just hypothetically speaking, because I seriously have no money right now... A S&W 632 basically new in box with 100 rounds of .32 Long and 40 rounds of .327 Gold Dots for $500. Y/N
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 11:56 |
|
|
SeamusMcPhisticuffs posted:I posted a lovely picture of it a while back, but here's a better picture of my S&W Stealth Hunter. So much fun to shoot, but I need to get a custom holster made for it. Nice. Give it to me.
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 12:08 |
|
|
infrared35 posted:So, just hypothetically speaking, because I seriously have no money right now... It's a drat neat round but not really a gun that most people could afford to shoot much. I would personally buy it for that price because I would upgrade my carry gun (and that is a pretty great price), would you be planning on carrying it?
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 15:08 |
|
|
Sixgun Strumpet posted:It's a drat neat round but not really a gun that most people could afford to shoot much. I would personally buy it for that price because I would upgrade my carry gun (and that is a pretty great price), would you be planning on carrying it? I probably would, despite my normal avoidance of ported guns. I would swap the grips out first thing, though.
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 15:36 |
|
|
infrared35 posted:I probably would, despite my normal avoidance of ported guns. Yeah I can see that. One nice thing about J-Frames is that there is a ridiculous amount of grip options out there. I'm personally a fan of the little boot grips. I find they fill my hand quite well (and I have no problem with my pinky hanging off the bottom).
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 15:47 |
|
|
infrared35 posted:So, just hypothetically speaking, because I seriously have no money right now... Y And some .32 Long dies.
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 19:15 |
|
|
thermobollocks posted:Y Will .32 Long dies do .327 Mag?
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 19:28 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2013 08:43 |
|
|
Ygolonac posted:Will .32 Long dies do .327 Mag? From what I have read, .32 magnum dies will do .327 and .32 long, not sure if it goes the other way or it they're all interchangeable.
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 19:51 |
|
