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Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



I looked through 9 pages of poo poo and didn't see a single revolver megathread. Use this to post any and everything about your wheelguns or other people's wheelguns or wheelguns you saw on the internet.

To get started, here's some I wrote a couple years ago, about checking out used revolvers:

------------------------------------------------------------------------

With spring well upon us, a young man's fancy turns to thoughts of shiny new guns and blowing things up with them. Unfortunately, most of the young men here can barely afford to keep their SKSes, Springfields, and Savages fed and happy, much less buy new guns. Take heart! I'm going to show you how to check out a used double-action revolver to impress the ladies with, and save a few hundred bucks on. Hopefully, the next time you are cruising the fragrant aisles of your local gun show you are less likely to be ripped off, at least as far as guns are concerned. The Beanie Baby dealer is another story entirely.

First things first, ask before you pick anything up. Please. Don't be the dipshit who goes around grabbing at everything shiny he sees. Roughly 98% of gunshow attendees do that, and simply asking before you snatch a gun into your grubby mitts will endear you to the person who wants to sell.

Now, let's check out the low-hanging fruit. Keeping your finger off the bang switch and the muzzle pointed in a safe direction (towards the neo-Nazi's booths is a safe direction), open the cylinder and make certain the gun is unloaded. If anyone takes offense to you doing this they are stupid, but you can tell them you were just checking to see how smoothly the cylinder releases if you don't feel like arguing. Oh, yeah, and you should check to see how smoothly the cylinder releases while you are making sure there are not live rounds in it. If it feels like it's hanging up on anything that's not necessarily a deal-breaker (and on a S&W easily fixed, usually), but note that fact for bargaining leverage.

Now that you know the gun is unloaded, use your thumbnail to reflect some light up the bore and look down it with your soft, fleshy eyeball. If you don't know what a good bore looks like, think back to your uncle's Mosin and make sure the bore of this revolver looks like the opposite of that. It should be bright, shiny, and have sharp rifling. Also, make certain the muzzle isn't all banged to hell.

Go ahead and close the gun again, and hold it up to a light source. We're checking out the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone.

If you can't see any daylight at all, put it down and walk away. If it looks like you could drive a donk through there, put it down and walk away. Otherwise, whip out a credit card and a dollar bill. No, we're not buying it yet, we're measuring. It should be no thinner than a dollar bill, and no wider than a credit card. If it's between those widths, it's acceptable. The narrower the gap is, the sooner crud will build up and impede the turning of the cylinder. The wider it is, the more gas you will lose and the less velocity your rounds will have, and it can bung up accuracy some.

OK, assuming it passed the bore and gap tests, let's make sure it's timed correctly. Check one more time to make sure there's no rounds in the cylinder, because we're going to be pulling the trigger. With the muzzle in a safe direction (yes, there's no rounds in it, but you're trying to look like you know what you're doing so you don't get ripped off, remember?), place a thumb lightly against the cylinder rod and pull the trigger slowly until you hear the cylinder stop click into place. You're touching the rod to keep inertia from sticking its stupid nose into your business, and you're listening to make sure that the cylinder locks into place BEFORE the hammer is fully cocked. If you don't hear it click before the hammer falls, keep the trigger depressed and use your other hand to try and wiggle the cylinder. If it's locked, it's either locking as the hammer falls or you just didn't hear it because somebody shot his foot off playing with the Nambus in the next aisle. This is passable, but not ideal. Go through this check with every chamber, and if any of them aren't locked into place even after the hammer falls, set the gun down and run, Forrest. You don't want an out-of-time revolver, no way no how.

That's the critical stuff out of the way. Now, give it a once-over and note the condition of the gun. Is the finish wearing anywhere? If it's only on the edges, it probably just means the gun's been holstered and unholstered many times, which is nothing to worry about. Check out the screws on the sideplate. Are they banged up at all? If they are, there's a good chance this gun's been subject to the tender ministrations of Bubba, because gunsmiths tend to use screwdrivers that fit. Look at the wear lines on the outside of the cylinder, between the chambers. If the gun's been cycled much there will be a wear line that spans roughly 50-70% of the space between the chambers. If it's longer than that, there's a problem, and likewise if it's shorter. Now, often there will be a thinner, less well-worn line that does extend the rest of the way and this is not a problem. It just means some knucklehead closed the gun and rotated the cylinder in the wrong direction to lock it.

Alright, if the gun you're looking at passed all those tests, chances are you are looking at a gun that will go bang when you pull the trigger and throw lead several dozen yards downrange. From here it's up to you to know the value of the particular gun you are looking at, and to haggle and get a decent price. All I can do is tell you if it's a decent gun, not what it's worth. Good luck, and remember not to play Taxi Driver in the mirror until you empty the guns and keep the ammo in another room.

----------------------------------------------

Update: If you want to get super in-depth, Jim March (of TFL) put together a 12-page PDF covering all this and way more, including specific checks for single-actions, break-tops, etc. Link to his thread on TFL.

Ron Mexico fucked around with this message at Apr 19, 2014 around 15:49

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DrakeriderCa
Feb 3, 2005

But I'm a real cowboy!

Ron Mexico

I'm looking for a Ruger Redhawk. Apparently they did them in a 4.something" barrel length this year, and that sounds sexy to me.

Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



DrakeriderCa posted:

Ron Mexico

I'm looking for a Ruger Redhawk. Apparently they did them in a 4.something" barrel length this year, and that sounds sexy to me.

Oh for real? I used to hate on Rugers a little but their blocky fattitude is starting to grow on me. I'd sure like an SP101 in .22LR, anyway.

DJExile
Jun 27, 2007

Ha ha! Pain is hilarious!


Are there any DA/SA .22LR or .22WMR revolvers that aren't...

1- Cheap as poo poo (Taurus)
2- Retardedly expensive (S&W)

?


EDIT: I should clarify. I think a snubby DA/SA in one or both of those calibers would be titties beyond comparison, but Taurus is Taurus, and the only Smith I've seen is one with about a 4 1/2" barrel and it's like $650. There has to be a middle ground there.

DJExile fucked around with this message at Jul 10, 2009 around 01:23

Black Stormy
Apr 1, 2003



Ron Mexico is the best Mexico.

Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



DJExile posted:

Are there any DA/SA .22LR or .22WMR revolvers that aren't...

1- Cheap as poo poo (Taurus)
2- Retardedly expensive (S&W)

?

How expensive is retarded expensive? Smith's -17 guns aren't any more expensive than their centerfire counterparts. That said, I'd be okay with a Taurus IFF I got to check it out in person first.

Chill_Bebop
Jun 20, 2007

Waffle SS

DJExile posted:

Are there any DA/SA .22LR or .22WMR revolvers that aren't...

1- Cheap as poo poo (Taurus)
2- Retardedly expensive (S&W)

?

Some H&R Revolvers might fit this bill, but the prices on them are rising. Most are around used Single Six prices now.

Nipponophile
Apr 8, 2009

Man of the Rising Sun


Postin' my 90 year old revolver in the revolver thread.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

DrakeriderCa
Feb 3, 2005

But I'm a real cowboy!

Ron Mexico posted:

Oh for real? I used to hate on Rugers a little but their blocky fattitude is starting to grow on me. I'd sure like an SP101 in .22LR, anyway.

Definitely for real. I think they're they best looking revolvers ever made. The proportions of everything is just right. Plus Rugers are built like a bank vault (I've owned a GP100 and a Super Redhawk), and I love .44 mag. It's super fun and once I'm loading for myself I can make up .44 Spl loads to shoot for cheaper fun.

Plus America.jpg is the best revolver picture ever.

Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



DrakeriderCa posted:

Definitely for real. I think they're they best looking revolvers ever made. The proportions of everything is just right. Plus Rugers are built like a bank vault (I've owned a GP100 and a Super Redhawk), and I love .44 mag. It's super fun and once I'm loading for myself I can make up .44 Spl loads to shoot for cheaper fun.

Plus America.jpg is the best revolver picture ever.

Handloading makes shooting .44 and .38 SO much better. I used to slap together these little mousefart .38 wadcutter loads for a model 10 I had that were pure joy to shoot. They kicked just enough to let you know you're not shooting .22, belched a perfect puff of smoke, and punched neat little holes in the target.

drat, I need to get another model 10.

e; dug out the load. It was 3.5 gr of Unique under a 148gr BBWC. Never chronoed it, but I'd guess somewhere in the 6-700s. ATTN NOOBS: Do not use that load and complain that I blew up your gun

Ron Mexico fucked around with this message at Jul 10, 2009 around 02:32

QuarkMartial
Sep 25, 2004

I've seen the future, and it has hooves.

Latest and greatest:



Stag and T-Grips Reppin:





And something I'd like to have one day:

Uncle Caveman
Jun 16, 2006

I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of how awesome I am.


Ron Mexico posted:

I used to hate on Rugers a little but their blocky fattitude is starting to grow on me.
Whaaaaat it was your mention of the Redhawk as an alternative to the Model 29 back whenever the hell it was you last made a revolver thread that turned me onto it in the first place.







Drake, there's a 4" Redhawk in .44mag & .45C.

DrakeriderCa
Feb 3, 2005

But I'm a real cowboy!

Uncle Caveman posted:

Whaaaaat it was your mention of the Redhawk as an alternative to the Model 29 back whenever the hell it was you last made a revolver thread that turned me onto it in the first place.







Drake, there's a 4" Redhawk in .44mag & .45C.

You. It was you. That revolver is beautiful. Unfortunately, a 4" barreled Redhawk is too cool for Canada. It has to be over 4.1" to come in. So the 5" ones are okay. A dude at a local gun shop said that someone was doing 4 1/4" ones or something this year. I got super excited.

DJExile
Jun 27, 2007

Ha ha! Pain is hilarious!


This is basically what I'm thinking about. In fairness, I know Taurus is getting better with things, but I don't know about their rimfire revolvers at all.

Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



Uncle Caveman posted:





Not canon.

DJExile posted:

This is basically what I'm thinking about. In fairness, I know Taurus is getting better with things, but I don't know about their rimfire revolvers at all.

Well, for ~$325 it might be worth giving it a try. I mean that's about the price of a good .22 auto. Go to a gun show and fondle a couple till you find one that seems solid and bring along some snap caps to try out the trigger. Don't be shocked if it feels ridiculously heavy and long, because it's a rimfire DA. They're like that.

Taurus revos seem to either have problems right off the bat or be pretty good without much in-between. The trick is picking through enough to find the good ones. I looked at 3 separate model 85s once at Gander Mtn and none of them were passable. But if you find a good one and don't like it, worst-case is you sell it to somebody else down the line.

All that said, I've never owned a Taurus, so...

Ron Mexico fucked around with this message at Jul 10, 2009 around 03:12

Uncle Caveman
Jun 16, 2006

I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of how awesome I am.


Ron Mexico posted:

Not canon.
I'll take cannon over canon anyday.

DJExile
Jun 27, 2007

Ha ha! Pain is hilarious!


Ron Mexico posted:

Not canon.


Well, for ~$325 it might be worth giving it a try. I mean that's about the price of a good .22 auto. Go to a gun show and fondle a couple till you find one that seems solid and bring along some snap caps to try out the trigger. Don't be shocked if it feels ridiculously heavy and long, because it's a rimfire DA. They're like that.

Taurus revos seem to either have problems right off the bat or be pretty good without much in-between. The trick is picking through enough to find the good ones. I looked at 3 separate model 85s once at Gander Mtn and none of them were passable. But if you find a good one and don't like it, worst-case is you sell it to somebody else down the line.

All that said, I've never owned a Taurus, so...

Thanks. If the trigger does wind up heavy/mushy, is that something a gunsmith can clean up?

TheStig
Jan 3, 2009

Just need to mount the guns on the car....


Someone say wheelguns?











TenementFunster
Feb 20, 2003

Never shoulda been let out the penitentiary


HELLO RON HOW ARE YOU WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN DOING? I HOPE EVERYTHING IS WELL

TheReverend
Jun 21, 2005



Here is my 686 SSR

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Ooh! Look at me, Ron! I've been busy!





Latest purchases - 6" Model 29:





And 2" Victory Model conversion:





And I just finished reading "Sixguns" by Elmer Keith, and I'm all excited about working up loads for the .44 now.

Billy Zane
Jun 24, 2003

Listen to your friend Billy Zane. He's a cool dude.

This Colt Officers Model belonged to my great-grandfather.




According to proofhouse.com, the serial number indicates that it was made in 1958. Is it safe to shoot modern .38SPL out of this?

N183CS
Feb 20, 2007

MOMS WITH GUNS


Here are my wheelguns.

Good Shooting: Colt 3rd gen SAA


Click here for the full 500x375 image.

lovely Shooting: Clerke 22lr Pot Metal POS

Black Stormy
Apr 1, 2003



infrared35 posted:

Ooh! Look at me, Ron! I've been busy!

Did you ever buy that .30 carbine Blackhawk? We can be wheelgun buddies!

Gwamp
Apr 18, 2003

Pedicabo ego vos et irrumabo,

Too many small guns in this thread.

Bogon
Nov 7, 2006






I need to build a light box and get a new camera.

AirPhforce
Apr 4, 2009


Cell phone pics.







As I said in the 1911 topic, I cant have a gun out without cats being on it.

Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



infrared35 posted:


And I just finished reading "Sixguns" by Elmer Keith, and I'm all excited about working up loads for the .44 now.

When you do, be sure and share your results. I get a huge kick out of that kind of thing.

TheStig
Jan 3, 2009

Just need to mount the guns on the car....


Gwamp posted:

Too many small guns in this thread.



You should have manned up and gotten the 2.75in survival model.



I'm very jealous...

HotCanadianChick
Oct 3, 2002


I AM AGGRESSIVELY SHITTING UP EVERY THREAD. MY CAR / SYNTH / CAT IS THE FUCKING BEST AND YOURS IS COMPLETE CRAP. MY OPINION IS THE ONLY OPINION YOU FUCKING IGNORANT POOR


Billy Zane posted:

According to proofhouse.com, the serial number indicates that it was made in 1958. Is it safe to shoot modern .38SPL out of this?

Modern (non +P) .38 special is still loaded to the same pressures as the old pre-20th century blackpowder loads (most modern .38 doesn't even use half the case volume), since anyone needing hotter can just get a .357 and use either cartridge. It'll be fine.

Fremry
Nov 4, 2003


I have asked about it before and got a decent response, but since this is a thread dedicated to wheelguns, I'll bring it up again.

I've been thinking for a while that I want an Uberti SAA clone. Depending on ammo prices towards the end of the year, I'll decide what I want it chambered in, but I'm thinking .357mag because I'm going for "fun plinker" rather than historical authenticity.

The price is right, being able to get new ones on gunbroker for like $350-400, and I just want to see what the resident revolver people think about them.

tiananman
Feb 6, 2005
Non-Headkins Splatoma

Just bought my first gun and I'm breaking all the TFR rules by not going with a 10-22 or a pellet gun or airsoft pistol or handful of rubber bands.

I got a .357 SA blackhawk, new for $420.

This one: http://www.ruger.com/Firearms/FAPro...=10306&return=Y

Before anyone jumps down my throat about bruised palms etc. - I did shoot a large variety of a friend's guns (revolvers and semi-autos) before making the decision.

Let's just say I won't ever be in the market for a .454 Casull.

And for some cheap first-day shooting I managed to snag a box of mis-matched .357 rounds for $20.

Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



tiananman posted:

Just bought my first gun and I'm breaking all the TFR rules by not going with a 10-22 or a pellet gun or airsoft pistol or handful of rubber bands.

I got a .357 SA blackhawk, new for $420.

This one: http://www.ruger.com/Firearms/FAPro...=10306&return=Y

Before anyone jumps down my throat about bruised palms etc. - I did shoot a large variety of a friend's guns (revolvers and semi-autos) before making the decision.

Let's just say I won't ever be in the market for a .454 Casull.

And for some cheap first-day shooting I managed to snag a box of mis-matched .357 rounds for $20.

My first handgun was a Glock 30. You won't hurt yourself with that, but if you shoot mainly .38 Spl and just a cylinder or two of .357 every range trip you'll be a lot happier (and wealthier). It'd be tough to develop bad habits with that gun that would translate to any other types anyway.

Fremry posted:


I've been thinking for a while that I want an Uberti SAA clone. Depending on ammo prices towards the end of the year, I'll decide what I want it chambered in, but I'm thinking .357mag because I'm going for "fun plinker" rather than historical authenticity.



Like I said to tiananman, .38 Special will probably be the most fun you'll have with that gun. It probably doesn't matter to you, but light-loaded cast lead .38 is what the cowboy action shooters typically go with. If you don't want to load your own, there are some companies making cowboy loads that might be fun to try out. They'll be stupid expensive, but a box here or there might be cool.

Ron Mexico fucked around with this message at Jul 10, 2009 around 17:14

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Black Stormy posted:

Did you ever buy that .30 carbine Blackhawk? We can be wheelgun buddies!

Life is strange sometimes. My coworker sold his but then my dad found one that he had so I bought that one, however I ended up trading it a few months later for a like-new P229R in .357.

And before anyone gets on my case, the Blackhawk didn't carry any sentimental value for either of us; I never even knew he had it and he himself forgot he had it for a long time. Since it had never been fired, I couldn't bring myself to shoot it.



Ron Mexico posted:

When you do, be sure and share your results. I get a huge kick out of that kind of thing.

I will. I was also thinking about doing a book review thread, a la Charles Askins, but with less crazy and more old-timey anecdotes.

tiananman
Feb 6, 2005
Non-Headkins Splatoma

Ron Mexico posted:

My first handgun was a Glock 30. You won't hurt yourself with that, but if you shoot mainly .38 Spl and just a cylinder or two of .357 every range trip you'll be a lot happier (and wealthier). It'd be tough to develop bad habits with that gun that would translate to any other types anyway.


Any truth to the idea that .38 spl loads will dirty the gun faster than the .357 ones?

Or does it have to do more with the jacket? I have a box of (super cheap, soft-points) .38 that I was shooting through my buddy's .357 blackhawk, and he said it made it much dirtier, much quicker than usual.

Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



tiananman posted:

Any truth to the idea that .38 spl loads will dirty the gun faster than the .357 ones?

Or does it have to do more with the jacket? I have a box of (super cheap, soft-points) .38 that I was shooting through my buddy's .357 blackhawk, and he said it made it much dirtier, much quicker than usual.

Nah, depends on the powder and the type of bullet. Lead bullets at high speed will leave lead all up in your bore. Unburnt powder gets everywhere, and some powder is dirtier than others. That's true in .38 and .357. What .38 will do in a .357 cylinder is leave a ring of soot around the case mouth because it's shorter than the cylinder.

Sounds like your cheap .38 loads just used dirty powder and bare lead. Not necessarily a bad thing, you save money but have to clean a little more.

Fremry
Nov 4, 2003


Ron Mexico posted:

Like I said to tiananman, .38 Special will probably be the most fun you'll have with that gun. It probably doesn't matter to you, but light-loaded cast lead .38 is what the cowboy action shooters typically go with. If you don't want to load your own, there are some companies making cowboy loads that might be fun to try out. They'll be stupid expensive, but a box here or there might be cool.

Yeah, I plan on reloading eventually, but I live in a studio right now, so I don't have the room to set up a press.

TheReverend
Jun 21, 2005



Hey Ron I can still load .357 to .38spcl specifications, right? Right now I am hoarding 357 brass in case I want to shoot it hot but I most likely will want to tune it down.

tiananman
Feb 6, 2005
Non-Headkins Splatoma

Does anyone know if super blackhawk grips will fit on the new model blackhawk? The factory grips are just...bad.

Saw some nice looking oversized walnut grips for a super blackhawk for ~$30.

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Ron Mexico
Dec 31, 2004



TheReverend posted:

Hey Ron I can still load .357 to .38spcl specifications, right? Right now I am hoarding 357 brass in case I want to shoot it hot but I most likely will want to tune it down.

Yeah, the worst you might run into is the cases don't fully expand in the chamber. But that probably wouldn't happen for regular .38 Spl power levels. If it does you'll notice soot burns on the sides of the cases after shooting them.

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