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infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Ooh! Look at me, Ron! I've been busy!





Latest purchases - 6" Model 29:





And 2" Victory Model conversion:





And I just finished reading "Sixguns" by Elmer Keith, and I'm all excited about working up loads for the .44 now.

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infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Black Stormy posted:

Did you ever buy that .30 carbine Blackhawk? We can be wheelgun buddies!

Life is strange sometimes. My coworker sold his but then my dad found one that he had so I bought that one, however I ended up trading it a few months later for a like-new P229R in .357.

And before anyone gets on my case, the Blackhawk didn't carry any sentimental value for either of us; I never even knew he had it and he himself forgot he had it for a long time. Since it had never been fired, I couldn't bring myself to shoot it.



Ron Mexico posted:

When you do, be sure and share your results. I get a huge kick out of that kind of thing.

I will. I was also thinking about doing a book review thread, a la Charles Askins, but with less crazy and more old-timey anecdotes.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



TenementFunster posted:

bullying or outright tricking citizens into surrendering rights most don't know they have.

I firmly believe that people should have a better idea of what rights they actually do have. I don't know if our present state i's a failing of the educational system or society as a whole.



stgdz posted:

short barrle, under 4", model 19's is where it is at for me.

And this. I love me a 2.5" Model 19. Now if I could only find one.

For less than $500.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005













King Carnivore posted:

Its single action. It has a loading gate.

I think he means "how" as in "the drat thing doesn't have an ejector rod."

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



QuarkMartial posted:

I think it does. Look right under the barrel. There's a little rod. Looks long enough to be an ejector to me.

That's the cylinder pin. On a single action revolver, the ejector is a separate piece since the cylinder doesn't come out of the frame. The ejector has to be off-center because the loading/unloading gate is off-center.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



DrakeriderCa posted:

This poo poo is super cool and all, but the best thing by far is the ammunition.

What, this ammo?

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



BizzaroprOn posted:

I just picked up a Ruger sp101.
Question - I've been reloading .38 special with my Lee .38 die sets - can I load .357 magnum using the .38 set?

It's theoretically possible; some die sets are billed as both, though they usually come with a collar that lets you easily adjust the dies for the two different case lengths. Without that collar, it would take some experimentation to get the dies set just right, and you might not get a true full-length resize on a .357 Mag case.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Ron Mexico posted:

Really? I don't think I've ever seen a .45 Colt one. I had a .44 Mag Mountain Gun for a while and holy god did that ever kick. .45 Colt would probably be a lot nicer.

You could have loaded it with .44 Specials.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



DrakeriderCa posted:

Finally closed the deal on that Model 10.

Smooth move, Broseppi.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



ddr3gamer posted:

A friend of mine just sent me this link. I balked when I saw the domain it went to, but then clicked, and was like .

Not the pistol-that-must-not-be-named, I promise.
http://www.magnumresearch.com/Expan...ctCode=BFR30-30

The dealer I normally go through just got one of these as a gift. It's pretty impressive. It's arguably even cooler than having a TC Contender in the same caliber.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Even better, you can get all the parts but the frame for $100; then all you have to do is download some CAD plans and machine a frame from the sturdy metal of your choice.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Pristine Shits posted:

I was curious about that, because they are listed as DAO. Is swapping out the hammer something you can do yourself?

Yes, but

There are a lot of pieces inside a double action revolver and they fit together in a very particular way. Best to read up on the topic before you try it yourself.

Unless you're feeling adventurous.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



ChlorineTrifluoride posted:

Ok, so there is a Smith I have my eye on now.

Correct me if I am wrong, but this is the one to look for, if you want to get about the best there is right off the bat?

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vi...?Item=136362518

That's a drat fine gun and the price isn't bad, assuming everything about the gun is kosher, mechanically speaking. One of my local shops has the 4" version for $575. I am still tempted to make an offer on it.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Buying a gun without inspection is especially risky in the case of a revolver. As far as this gun goes:

Pluses -
- It's sturdy as hell, pretty much the most overbuilt S&W for a centerfire cartridge
- The forcing cone doesn't appear to be cracked
- The finish looks pretty clean, which can indicate it was generally taken care of

Minus -
- There appears to be a drag ring around the entire cylinder, which could indicate a timing issue (though probably a minor one) or it could indicate someone's been playing cowboy with it and spinning the cylinder like a top when closing the action, just so they could look cool and listen to the clickclickclickclick noise. It's probably not a big deal, but it would be cause for further inspection.

Ron Mexico or someone could probably more accurately address this last point.

And just to be clear, I'm not looking for the 6-inch verison; I was just interested in the 4-inch that my local shop has.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



I shot IDPA with my 6" Model 29 today and didn't do too badly. I would've posted an excellent time but I missed a distant popper with the first shot, and making a second shot to drop it meant I only had one round left to engage a runner which was supposed to be hit twice. But it was fun.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



They are fun though.

I'm looking at it from the other angle, however - if I wanted a cowboy gun, I'd get one in a more versatile caliber.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Speed Strips aren't bad but obviously they take practice. Personally, I find it easier to load from belt pouch. I have one that holds six rounds in pairs; it's easy to pull out two rounds at a time and load them quickly. It lies fairly flat on the belt so it's more concealable than a speedloader pouch, and it maintains its orientation, unlike a Speed Strip which, depending on method of carry, can end up sitting upside-down or sideways in the pocket.

The problem you're having with the speeloaders - is it a matter of the speedloader not clearing the left grip panel? If that's it, try a different set of grips.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



It's kind of old school - it's a Strong brand pouch. I'm a big fan of their leather gear, even if it isn't the easiest to find.







Here it is with the top flap open:





Here it is all the way open - the pouch is designed so the rounds fold out for easier access.





Also, I had to laugh because I just saw Speed Strips in .410 for the Judge.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Cross posting a speedloader for single action revolvers:

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Black Stormy posted:

I looked for one of these and couldn't find one, so I did the next best thing: bought the Galco version of it. Only thing is, it doesn't have holes cut for a belt. :facepalm: I loaded it up last night and just wrapped it around the belt, and it held pretty well, so I'm not all that concerned.

Pics or it didn't happen.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Black Stormy posted:

Pics of no holes? I'll take some when I get out of class tonight.

I just want to see how it's set up.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Chill_Bebop posted:

Back in the '60s, you could buy a spare cylinder for a K22 chambered for .224 Kay-chuck. It was a great round, flat shooting and fairly high powered, I always wondered why the concept of buying new cylinders for your wheelgun never caught on. I know I would pay money for a .45 ACP cylinder, or a 9mm for a .357.

I think Ruger still makes a convertible Blackhawk in 9mm/.357, but I've heard they're not that accurate in 9mm due to the smaller bullet diameter. A hell of a lot cheaper to shoot, though.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Also, with the Taurus lightweight snubs, if you plan on carrying it with +P ammo, be sure to test fire at least two cylinders' worth. I had one that locked up completely when I ran +P ammo through it, even though the stupid things are explicitly rated for +P.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



padijun posted:

The cost difference between .38spl and 9mm is pretty much negligible though.

And I'd rather shoot wadcutters than 9mm ball ammo, so you know my feelings on the subject.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



My personal favorite 4" .357 revolvers, in no particular order:

S&W 686
S&W 586
S&W 28
S&W 19
Ruger GP100

I'm not that familiar with Ruger's other full-size .357s, but the GP100 is built like a tank.

I should add Colt Python but I'm afraid to fire mine as I don't want to drive it out of time.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



HotCanadianChick posted:

It's not so much that they're fragile, as they they just have closer tolerances and need more frequent TLC to maintain them. They're like the Ferrari of the revolver world - expensive, high performance, needs frequent tuneups, and you have to pay out the nose to find someone who will work on it, but hey, you're drivingshooting a FerrariPython.

Yeah, it's an awesome revolver, but I dread the day I have to send it in for any kind of work.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



King Carnivore posted:

How's the saying go? Buy S&Ws and shoot your friends Colts?

Pretty much; the only reason I bought a Python is my mentor/supervisor, who was retiring, offered it to me for a steal.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



If I remember correctly, a well-timed (Smith & Wesson) revolver should have marks that start about halfway between the stop notches. No idea if that applies to Rugers as well.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



hangedman posted:

I've mentioned it before, but I really think those J-frames are classy.

Those aren't all J-frames.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



The only possible problem is that you might etch a ring in the chambers from firing a steady diet of .38 +P since the casing is shorter than .357. But I can't even imagine how much ammo you'd need to go through before that would be a problem.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



ibntumart posted:

All right, more newbie revolver owner questions for y'all. I will soon have my mitts on my S&W 586, which will be both a range gun and a back-up home defense weapon. What are your thoughts for good and economical practice rounds and for good HD rounds (not as worried about cost for HD rounds)? What grain should I consider? Any reason to prefer .38 +P rounds to .357 magnums?

Just in case it makes a difference, I plan to practice only shooting double action.

Also, the guy who I traded the revolver told me that cowboy load ammo is great for folks who normally fire low caliber handguns (such as my wife, who usually spends our time at the range shooting my rimfire S&W pistol). Should I go for it or would any low power .38 Special round be fine? (Again thinking of my wife, but she *has* shot my XD45 a few times---she really hates the kick, but after all, it was a polymer gun.)

If you buy cowboy loads, just be sure they're not talking black powder because it'll be a bitch to clean. If it's smokeless powder loaded to black powder ballistics, that's fine.

About the only reason to choose .38 +P over .357 is that they're a little milder; I guess another (dubious) reason is that .38 rounds are a hair shorter than .357 rounds, so your reloads (if you are carrying any) will take up slightly less space.

For economical rounds, whatever is cheapest in .38 will work. Wadcutters, semiwadcutters, lead round nose, etc. are cheap but will require a little more cleaning than jacketed loads. If you're going to go with hotter loads for home defense, I suggest 158-grain in either caliber as the longer bullet puts less stress on the barrel's forcing cone. It shouldn't be a problem on a 586 anyway - I think it was more of the K-frame .357s like the Model 19 - but using 158s will still put less stress on the forcing cone and give you better barrel life and accuracy.

Also, 586 krew throw your set in the air.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Liam Acerbus posted:




The little guy is a 638 Airweight Bodyguard and the big guy is a model 19-4. I shot the Bodyguard for the first time this weekend and was pretty surprised by how snappy it is. Standard .38 out of it feels about the same as magnums from the 19-4.

Those are both beautiful handguns. Seriously.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



sza posted:

New (old) revolver day!





That. Is. Awesome.

Where did you get it?

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



sza posted:

It showed up on consignment at the range. I bought it.

You are the man. I saw a really nice PPC revolver at my local shop a few years ago but nobody within a 200-mile drive was running PPC matches at that time. Also I was flat broke.

Trade ya my Beretta 1201FP for it.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Ron Mexico posted:

If you read all that you win the revolver championship belt.

I'm still waiting for my belt.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



I'm going to call him "Captain Pirk" from now on.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



ChlorineTrifluoride posted:

I am insanely jealous, those grips look fantastic. The last set I saw that looked that good were $70

You can get a nice set of N-frame target grips (not checkered though) from CDNN for $37.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



kwantam posted:

I'm picking up a confiscated S&W model 57 (hell yeah .41 Magnum ) whose finish is in pretty bad shape but at a smokin price. S&W will reblue it for me for about $200. I assume they do a good job, but is there somewhere else I might consider sending it? My feeling is that having it factory reblued will add more value to the gun than just some random dude refinishing it, but perhaps this isn't really true. Opinions?

I was also wondering if I should have them do the trigger job while I have it there. Their customer service guy was surprisingly honest with me, saying that for older guns the triggers were probably already worked out to the point where the trigger job wasn't worth it. Does anyone have any experience with this that disagrees with his advice?

(I'll post "before" pics as soon as I can, and "after" pics in a couple months )

Let us see the before pics and we shall decide.

But I sense myself voting against re-bluing.

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infrared35
Jan 12, 2005



Bah, that's nothing but character marks. Why pour money into cosmetics when you could be spending it on ammo?

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