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CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

On the paint job, did you just tape everything off, or did you take it all apart and spray it piece by piece? I ask because things like body pins, mag release, and little parts like that are tan. It looks fine, if that's what you were going for, btw. I like to have black accents when painting tan though, so I leave those pieces out when painting.

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CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Kastway airsoft is diong a deal-a-day thing, similar to Woot! and others.

http://tacticaltrunkmonkey.com/

They've had some good deals so far, including a CA Scar-L for $100. I'm not sure what time they update, though.. It's sometime in the middle of the day.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Baba The Ox posted:

I knew the basic ins and outs of NiCad and NiMH, but I've never delved into LiPo. I can never get good information, it always turns into "Man, just use a big 9.6 to be safe" or something similar to that.

I ordered some 10.8v NiMHs the other day, and had planned to use them in my KWA, which claims to be LiPo ready. Am I going to see any ill-effects from that, you think? The "LiPo Ready" disclaimer that came with the gun describes the gearbox of being able to handle up to small 11.1v LiPos, so in theory I'm alright.

Right?

That thing will be fine with a 10.8v. The only thing that LiPo-Ready means is that it won't break as easily under a higher ROF

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Aliginge posted:

I found a STAR highcap that looks alright. STAR are supposed to be good aren't they?

Basically £40 per TM mag is not happenning ever and CA mags are a little hard to find over here.

Yeah STARs and MAGs are what I use, although really, use midcaps. they're so much better than Hicaps. These (http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/magazine...black-8pcs.html) will fit in almost any gun, at least any I've used, including JG, Echo1, TM, CA, Dboys.

In other news, I've got a fuckin' P90 coming my way! I'm excited, I sold my old TM P90 a couple years ago when I moved to go to college, and I've finally got some funds to buy another. I've missed it, and I can't wait to pimp it out. It's a Classic Army sportline, I hope they're as good as CA's proline. It should be here tomorrow or Friday, but the ~$150 worth of accessories I bought for it won't be here till middle of next week

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Basilson posted:

So does anyone know of a good source for buying spare TM AUG parts? Specifically I'm looking for the TM ST26 and ST27 (the stopper rail and spring).

The few places I've come across from doing a Google search say that the parts are discontinued or otherwise unavailable.

Buy a spare AUG. No really. that's what I ended up doing, luckily it was heavily used and only $75.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Forti posted:

So, how does that work then? Does the bottom section move up as you fire?


In other news, any UK goons have experience buying from evike? I know this is unlikely, but it appears to be the one place in the world I can buy spare shells for my revolver, and I was wondering about shipping.
As a US person, out of 3 orders from Evike, 2 have been messed up beyond repair, and they had the audacity to refuse my refund of a broken gun because they claimed I had opened it, when I had just got it a day before and there was no evidence of it having been opened. I'd stay as far away from Evike as possible.

In other news, I'm building a custom M4. I'm most of the way there; I've got a rocking gearbox, nice metal body and short RIS, and silencer. However, I'm missing an outer barrel; and the outer barrel only needs to be about an inch long with threads on one end. Does anyone know where I can get something like this? It's for a supershort M4, barrel length of an mp5k.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

I'd like you to meet... well, I haven't given her a name yet.


Click here for the full 640x480 image.



Click here for the full 640x480 image.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Crunkjuice posted:

Is that one of those savage hunters or is it some custom job you bought off a guy?

Custom job I did myself. Shoots between 341 and 344 every time, out-ranges most guns out there due to a systema M4 length tightbore. I've still got to work on some internal stuff, but my exterior work is complete, save for a red dot, and possibly fore grip.

Classic Army P90 sportline
Systema 363mm 6.04 tightbore barrel
SRC 6" silencer (no silencing- just steel construction)
KS P90 RIS
KS P90 M4 mag conversion (not using it as box mag, but just as a conversion)
Rubber butt stock

Soon to be upgraded:
Steel bushings
Systema Magnum motor
Wiring for deans because tamiya sucks
Maybe a mosfet if I've got the money

edit-

Baba The Ox posted:

While I try to respect every man's style of weapon, I've never understood turning a P90 or any other SMG into a gunship of any kind.
I do see your point. But if it works, why not? A P90 was actually my first gun, and I loved it, but at the time I didn't have the funds to maintain it. This was back in about 2004 or 2005, before the Chinese clone rush. Now that it's actually a little cheaper to get parts for these unique guns, I'm all over it, because while I enjoy having a couple AR variants, I much prefer something like the AUG or P90.

CloFan fucked around with this message at Aug 15, 2009 around 03:10

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

INTERNETRACECAR posted:

It's essentially a hopper that sits above a hicap. You fill the hopper and crank the hicap, which pushes bbs into the front of the adapter and down into the hopup unit. It IS a bit like a box mag, but one with water on the brain.

Yep. You leave the door open on the hicap, and the bbs from the hopper fall into the m4 mag, and you wind it and it feeds into the P90 magwell. There's a little idiot-proofing piece, a metal nub that goes into the open door of the hicap. I filed it off with a dremel, and now my midcaps work in it.

The reason I bought it was because, $40 for two P90 mags, or $40 for 8 M4/M16 mags? Mainly cost, but also for the uniqueness of it. Plus, I've already got a M4 vest loadout.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

New page! Time to fag it up with more P90 pictures


Click here for the full 1556x1038 image.



Click here for the full 1464x466 image.



Click here for the full 1280x959 image.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Mine is a BSA branded one, it was about 60 bucks (american). It's my favorite sight, and I've tried a few. Ten different brightnesses, four different reticules (dot, cross, circle, cross with circle in the middle), so if one is too big, go down a notch. Also sits higher than tube red dots like you've got. Easy to tune in, as well. I'd highly recommend it.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

INTERNETRACECAR posted:

Probably not very.

Yeah, its real easy, assuming you've worked with a soldering iron/wires before. 18AWG wire should work well for you, avoid 22AWG, as it gets too hot and will stop firing in order to cool down.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

I'll never buy anything but Systema TBs.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

LA as in Louisiana or Los Angeles?

Just ship your M4 with UPS or something. Maybe disassemble it a bit first.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

I use this one, it's good:

http://www.all-battery.com/smartuni...turesensor.aspx

Does not come stock with Deans. It has auto-cutoff, and charges 7.2-12v. That website always has some sort of free shipping deal too, if you google it.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

I'm pretty sure you just described my P90.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

I'm in the process of making a supershort M4. How's that for role reversal? A DM P90 and CQC M4

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

So... how much would it take for one of you UK guys to send me one of those?

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

I've got that sight linked above (mine is made by BSA, a popular brand in US). It's pretty much amazing, I spent about $60 on it.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Crunkjuice posted:

Have you had yours take a direct hit from a bb yet? I'm wary of them after i've seen two get shattered from impacts.

No direct BB hits, luckily.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

If they are anything like the Sig552 mags (they are), the clip parts also break pretty easy :-/

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

400-425 with 23s is pretty hot. Maybe about 450 with 20s, so you'd need a M130 or M140 spring. Probably some pretty high torque gears as well, and a powerful motor to run it all (I recommend the Systema Magnum motor - freakin' awesome) You'll also need a reinforced piston. The gearbox shell should hold up to that strength I think, but putting it back together is going to be a bitch with that spring. I'd buy a backup tappet plate/nozzle as well, just in case, as those shatter at higher velocities.

Edit- That JBU set you linked is alright. It'll shoot .20s at 400fps, .23s at about 380. Comes with everything you'll need except motor, but a standard motor will handle a M120, albeit a bit slower than normal.

CloFan fucked around with this message at Dec 29, 2009 around 19:58

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Verman posted:

Awesome thanks, I think I will try to stick with a 120 spring, if Im shooting .23 at 380 I would be very content with that velocity, I will try the stock motor first to see if I like the speed, then upgrade from there, Im sure I will order some random odds and ends just in case things break down and of course always keeping my stock stuff as backup.

Cool. Most stock guns can handle a M120 without further upgrade (besides maybe metal bushings if it doesn't already have them), and with a 10.8v, you might not notice too much of a ROF decrease.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Any of you airsoft techs, I've got a question.

A couple weeks ago, my stock CA Sportline P90 broke some teeth off of the piston. I'm running a 11.1v lipo; I'm not sure that's important, but it could be. So anyways, I took this oportunity to redo the gearbox. This is what I put in it:

Vanaras M120 spring
Systema Area 1000 metal bushings
Element Gear set with piston

and some new shims. If fired fine the first few times (probably could have used some more gear grease) at around 360fps, then all the sudden was screwing up again. I take it apart again to find that it stripped that piston. Well, drat, I guess this spring is pretty powerful. I also noticed the spring wasn't near as stiff as it was when first putting it in, I guess that's just the compression of the first few shots taking affect. So I put a Systema Area 1000 Polycarb piston in it, and it works for a few shots, then it shatters that drat piston as well. This one was weird, though. The first two broke where you'd expect them to, near the end (where the most force is exerted), but the Systema broke on teeth #4, and 6-9 (last before the metal one is 14).

So, what the hell? Any ideas? I've thrown M120s into stock guns plenty of times without issue, so what's different in this case?

Edit- Thinking about it, it might just be the lipo, but drat, I run Lipos in all my guns and haven't seen this problem.

CloFan fucked around with this message at Jan 6, 2010 around 04:40

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Crunkjuice posted:

Clofan you ever get that poo poo figured out?

Mostly. It does turn out the systema piston wasn't completely hosed, just broke the tips of a few teeth off, not the whole groove. But, I replaced it with a solid aluminum piston (http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_in...products_id=621) and it's working now. Working, but not properly, as now I don't have a good air seal between the piston head and cylinder. It's strange as I'm using the stock cylinder and piston head. I might just get a new piston head and cylinder head and just make it a completely redone gearbox.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Generally (not the case for me, see above), for a M120 spring (400fps with .20s), the only upgrade needed is metal bushings, and even those are optional until one goes out on you. Bushings should be the very first thing you upgrade in the gearbox on a stock gun, unless they're already metal.

I wouldn't go with an aluminum piston if you plan on using and 8.4 or even 9.6v battery, it'll slow down your rate of fire because of the added weight. I used one because I knew I'd be using a 11.1v lipo, which should compensate for the ROF drop.

On pistons, check out these articles, they're great:
http://www.airsoftmechanics.com/hom...view/22/29/1/8/
http://www.airsoftmechanics.com/hom...view/20/29/1/4/
(those are the weight comparison pages, it's a full like 15 page review, very helpful)

Vermin, if you're just looking for a quick upgrade, get some steel bushings and a spring. Then, replace things as they break, and I'd say your piston would probably go first.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Keep in mind Blackhawk also has a lifetime warranty. A buddy of mine had a 5-6 year old Blackhawk vest that he bought used, and the zipper broke on it. He called up BH, they had no questions asked and sent him a new one. The kicker is the new one was actually a better model than the old one!

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.


I think someone bought the Tactical Trunk Monkey grip deal the other day...

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Check this poo poo out too: http://arairsoft.net/smf/index.php?topic=1803.0

A forum member of mine wrote that up, it's actually really well done with plenty of pictures and diagrams.

Edit- Oops didn't realize you just wanted names, heh. Oh well, it's still a good writeup so I'll leave it here.

CloFan fucked around with this message at Jan 28, 2010 around 19:59

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

v1nce posted:

Googled for "Bolle x500 goggles, ansi"
http://www.caelyntek.com/airsoft/re...Bolle/X500T.htm

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't airsoft goggles supposed to be unlike crash helmets? I mean it in the sense that they should be able to take more than one heavy impact?
Should it not be possible to shoot the lenses and see if they break/crack, and if not, then you're good to go?

You might say this could weaken the goggles, but surly in an environment where they might receive a volley of fire, a single shot as a test should be fine? Does anyone have a take on this?

A good test is a 1ft away direct shot from a 350-400fps gun. If the goggle breaks, sure, you're down a pair of goggles, but at least you still have your eyes.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

INTERNETRACECAR posted:

From what I've seen, they work VERY well in low powered guns, with obscenely long, flat trajectories, but beyond 330 fps it all falls apart.

Do they utilize a hop up system?

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

drat, that is a catastrophic failure.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Any of you guys planning on going to the Oklahoma Invasion first weekend in May? It's gonna be pretty big, with APCs, dueces, even a chopper.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

I've fried a motor because I didn't have a fuse, but I still don't use them. Just be smart and if your gun isn't firing for whatever reason, don't lay on the trigger or you'll break something.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Dynastocles posted:

I'm an actor and a writer, and soon I will be working on a film that will involve guns. The story involves Israeli assassins in a modern-day setting.

I was wondering what sort of airsoft or other air pistols (pellet, bb) would be good to use for the project? Ideally some sort of pistol that comes with or has room for a silencer attachment. Something sturdy, something realistic, something good.

http://www.kastwayairsoft.com/Produ...SCG-MEU-LE.aspx

Granted, its a little pricey, but its totally worth it. Real weight, gas blow back (means the slide moves to allow the next bullet in), realistic magazine. Plus its a sharp looking 1911, rather than the standard M9 Beretta.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Magnum1371 posted:

I think a Jericho would be more fitting since it is an Israely design -assuming the setting is not in the US, but even if it is, you can get them here as well.

I must have overlooked the part about Israeli assassins, so yeah, a Jericho would play the part well.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Football mouthguards also work well, although you have to take them out to talk to people.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

Robotic_Towel posted:

Umarex gas blow-back MP7

Good to see some Umarex love in this thread! Their new line of guns really are good. They originally had run of the mill clones, but then asked the airsofting community what we would like to see. We told them, and they listened, and boy did they do it right.

Best part is, I live in Fort Smith, AR, where their factory is. If an Umarex gun I'm using goes bad, I can take it by there and have it fixed for free same day! At our last big OP, they sponsored about 15 gun giveaways, so our area really likes Umarex.

CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

veonenergee posted:

I have a JG G36C, the version with metal bushings I think, but would getting a lipo battery be ok to use in a more entry level AEG like mine? Or should I just get a higher mAH battery (came stock with an 1100mAH) so as not to wear it out so much?


It's all about the voltage. A 7.4v lipo will do no more damage to a gearbox than a 8.4v or 9.6v battery, and it is much smaller, works better in cold weather, last longer, and can (generally) output at a higher amperage rating. An 11.1v lipo, however, will tear your poo poo up. How quickly depends on a lot of X factors; I've had a JG (SR-16) go down at a little over 10,000 rounds, and a Classic Army (P90) go down after about 500. Granted, the P90 was sportline, one of the aforementioned X factors.

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CloFan
Nov 5, 2004

In case you haven't noticed, I'm a pilot.

I've had pretty good luck with all http://www.all-battery.com/, and they usually have coupon codes available (edit: Yep).

Be sure to get a smart charger as well- the danger with Lipos is when charging. I have this charger and haven't had a problem with it.

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