|
Blaster of Justice posted:Friction between your front wheel and the road is no big deal. You can argument for hours, and I really don't want to pull the engineer card on you, but you'll lose. Screw the engineer card, let's try it like this: Would you rather push the front or the rear? I'd put the DS tire on the front. It has nothing to do with physics and everything to do with prefering the bike to "oversteer" as opposed to pushing the front every time you corner. Having the rear end end all sideways isn't a big deal. Having the front tuck every time you try and corner? Very, very bad. The physics of it can be argued for days as I've never met a person who has been capable of understanding ALL of the forces that go into cornering in the real world. In an ideal world, with perfect traction and a bunch of other assumptions? Sure. Can you extrapolate from that to some stuff that can give you gains here and there? Sure. But you can't just say "Physics say THIS IS RIGHT", when it's obviously better to lose rear end traction then front end traction. I honestly can't imagine why anyone would say you'd be better off putting the tire with more traction on the rear. It's just stupid. Z3n fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Aug 10, 2009 |
#
¿
Aug 10, 2009 04:44
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 02:58 |
|
|
frozenphil posted:Anyone else with the J get IRC tires stock? I'm wondering if you're feeling them get squirmy after a half hour or so at 60-70mph. I'm not sure if it is my newbie self feeling the back end wander slightly due to wind or the tire, but it doesn't feel "right". Is that just part of riding a bike, part of riding a tiny bike, or is it wind or lovely tires? What pressures are you running?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 10, 2009 04:55
|
|
|
frozenphil posted:Stock, 28f/32r. It's probably just the wind and lovely tires. I'd not worry too much about it until you get them replaced, see if it sticks around then.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 10, 2009 05:03
|
|
|
Internet_Wwwyzzerdd posted:I remember reading a paper/study/whatever (can't find source sorry, I think it may have been talked about on AdvRider) claiming that losing rear traction is far worse than losing front traction. Seemed like an elaborate trolling effort to me. Blaster doesn't know what he's talking about. For christ's sake, he's comparing 4 wheeled vehicles to 2, it's not the same thing in the slightest. Probably just another troll. Anyways, comfort is really relative, especially considering that some people can be long torso, short legs, and others can be short torso, long legs. Add in different arm lengths, etc, and what it comes down to is that you have to go and sit on the bike for awhile to figure out if it'll fit you or not.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2009 17:42
|
|
about front end traction
|
Entreri posted:Just bought a used 08 250 and it's about to hit 5k miles. Should I consider buying some new tires in the near future? If so, what are some good options? Sport Demons are the general standby. How are your tires wearing? What tires are on there now?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2009 18:29
|
|
|
frozenphil posted:You guys wanted a 6" rear on your '08+ 250s, right? Apparently you can get a 210 series on the back now, this is a 190. Bonus round: You can REALLY show off your chicken strips! 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 17, 2009 02:46
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:SS lines do not change the amount of force needed to brake the bike. Bleeding the brakes doesn't help that either. bleeding affects brake fade. Pads affect bite, and feel, and fade. Ineffective or very worn/glazed pads will not provide as much friction and will require more force to get a given level of braking. I'd go for pads that provide more initial bite before I dropped money elsewhere. Pads and clean fluid.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 21, 2009 06:01
|
|
|
Methusulah posted:I need to check my valves this week, (desperately) what do i need to know? ninja250.org says Sears has feelers. Would autozone or o'reilly's have them? Any suggestions? Yup. They're just called feeler gauges, get a set that you can remove individual feelers from and that have the smallest increments available. It makes getting the feeler in a lot easier.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2009 04:45
|
|
|
Methusulah posted:is it frustratingly hard to do without this special tool? They say you can use eyeglass screwdrivers and what not, which I have. Will I completely hate it, or is that plausible? It's plausible, but you'll probably have to use trial and error to get the spacing right. Not a big deal, just a bit slower.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2009 05:33
|
|
|
Upside Potential posted:Im going to poo poo on your party and say that while the 2009 Ninja 250 is a cool bike... it loving sucks up the MSF U-Turn Box. If you think it's bad on a 250, I hope you never have to try it on a ZZR1200.  Methusulah posted:Well, while I'm asking about valves, i guess it's prudent to ask that If my biek is shaking more and sounding rougher at lower (<5k rpm) the valves should be done? I bought it at 3150 miles, and now it's at around 4500. I figure i'll do them anyway, but those are some sure signs, eh? Eh, if it's at low amounts of throttle opening, (like that ever happens on a 250) it could be the carbs not being synced up nicely, but valves can do funny things to a bike too. May as well check them at least.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2009 07:21
|
|
|
sklnd posted:The tool corrects no trial and error. I don't know what you're talking about. Right, that's what I said. He asked it it was plausible to do it with eyeglass screwdrivers and I said it was but it'd probably take a little trial and error to get it right 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2009 15:42
|
|
|
NoCleverName posted:So, while sealing my gas tank I've come to learn that it leaks when upside down. Not a ton, but it's definitely noticeable. Anyone else's Ninja do this? If it's not normal, could it allow rain water into the tank? I took apart the tank cap and didn't notice anything wrong with it. Normal, there's a vent that'll leak gas if the tank is upside down.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2009 17:00
|
|
|
You could just need to loose everything up, pump the suspension through it's travel a few times, and everything could be straight, or stuff could be bent. It's impossible to say without actually measuring the bike. Could be bent handlebars, bent forks, tweaked triples...there's a bunch of things that need to be checked.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 19, 2009 00:54
|
|
|
the walkin dude posted:Today I test-rode a Ninja 250. I have a EX500. The 250 was SO quiet compared to the EX500. Is this normal? Sounds like the EX500 had an exhaust on it. Stock 250s are pretty quiet though. All bikes have problems shifting down to first when at really low speed, it's just the design of the transmission. You should be shifted to first before you come to a stop.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 25, 2009 22:17
|
|
|
kylej posted:The Ninja250.org wiki brought up an interesting point when I was thinking about swapping in some suspension parts. This is a faulty argument. It assumes that any rider who reads that paragraph is equally skilled to the founder of PTT (and those guys are plenty loving fast, let me tell you), which is...bullshit. Learning to ride is great. I spend a lot of time on the track learning to be a better rider. But when it comes to the street, safety is goal one, and part of being safe on a motorcycle means that you don't run with your suspension all wrong. It is unsafe to have your bike's suspension bottoming out over bumps and under hard braking, and can lead to accidents. Does it? Probably not often. But why take the additional risk? Riding is dangerous enough as it is. Just because Rossi could ride a 250, stock suspension and all, past just about anyone, doesn't mean that it's a good idea for you to try it. Upgrade your front end. Spend all of your money on that. The back end can be managed with the throttle, but there is basically nothing that you can do about the front end bottoming out from a controls standpoint. I have seen many people end up on their heads because they took advice from a racer. "Oh sure, those tires/that suspension is good for 1:35s! You got plenty left!" That setup is good for that rider to a given speed. Assuming that you have the skills of a racer as a new rider is either arrogant or ignorant, and is a great way to get yourself in way over your head. On the racer's side, many of them know other riders who are a lot faster than them, and they don't really feel that fast. So their advice usually isn't given maliciously, just with a lack of understanding of the skills of the person that they're talking to. From line choice to turn in speed to ability to read feedback from a bike, you have to take the skill level of the rider into account when you listen to their feedback...the way one rider laps a track at 1:35 is very different from the way another rider on the same bike will... quote:I'm not saying the bike doesn't get squirrelly at times, When an experienced racer is calling a bike "squirrelly", that's a HUGE warning sign. Not to mention that that racer is going to be operating at a fraction of the speed he could usually handle and a peg going down or the front end pushing will be met with a "huh, probably shouldn't do that", whereas a newer rider could very easily do the wrong thing and end up crashing in that situation. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Sep 26, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Sep 26, 2009 05:57
|
|
|
What are you doing with the choke? You should set the idle adjuster and it should pretty much be done unless you're traveling up a few thousand feet. Sounds like you're riding around with the choke on at all times.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2009 18:23
|
|
|
BlueBayou posted:Know what sucks? Not having a tach on your bike.... I have no idea what my idle is Idle: yes. That's how I judge my trackbike. Is it idling? Yes? Idle is correct!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2009 18:31
|
|
|
the walkin dude posted:Nope, I turn it off when I'm done warming up. The idle still acts funny. If there's a valve clearance adjustment that needs to be done, what would that do to the idle? There's a few things that can cause funny idles...valve adjustment is one of them, carb sync is another. Could also be mildly clogged jets, Seafoam will sometimes clean up an idle nicely. If it were my bike, I'd do the valve adjustment, sync the carbs, and finish it off with some seafoam in the gas tank. Also, check that your choke cable isn't binding...I think you can see where it's actuating the carb by just looking at it while you open and close the choke.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2009 18:55
|
|
|
deliverator posted:Can anybody recommend a slip-on or full exhaust for an 09 that's not horribly loud? I currently have a Two Brothers Racing carbon fiber slip-on that's really loud even with the add-on suppressor. It looks cool as hell but I feel awful subjecting the neighborhood to the noise. You could put a more restrictive silencer in there. It's cheap and worth a shot.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2009 00:23
|
|
|
-Inu- posted:If you've pushed the 250 to its limits and can't get much more out of it (I find myself wanting more throttle mid-corner in the twisties) you shouldn't have any problems. Or if you need more power for freeway commuting, passenger riding, or group riding (seriously gets annoying getting stuck behind a car or three unable to pass because of torque) I'd say go for it. A combination of all that stuff is what's pushing me to upgrade and I've got about the same number of miles as you. I upgraded at around 8k on my 250 and while I was perfectly capable of handling the 90ish HP 600 (Kawasaki ZX6E), it certainly didn't do anything good for my skills as a rider. Plus adding HP when I was 19 really wasn't a good idea, but I got lucky and survived it. Wanting more throttle isn't a sign that you're mastering the bike, only that you're comfortable with it...I was comfortable with the throttle on my 250 when I moved up, but what I didn't realize is that when you've got that comfort is when you can really start to carry cornerspeed and learn proper throttle control and technique. If you're intimidated by the throttle it's impossible to use the throttle like you should. You'll always end up being late on the gas. After 5k you're not even close the limits of your 250. That's the thing that's so misleading about motorcycles...people feel like they're absolutely hauling rear end, but it's just their brain freaking out because it hasn't adjusted to the sensations of riding a motorcycle. If you're comfortable with the limits on a 250 you're not going to have any problems passing cars, on groups rides, or riding 2 up with it. I do agree on the "more power is nice" bit though. Especially for street riding. But you have to be careful not to use it as a crutch to make up for poor riding technique.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2009 19:38
|
|
|
-Inu- posted:Well, I don't think I've mastered the bike but I've hit up Deal's Gap a few times and really went at it pretty hard with a couple seasoned riding buddies. I could probably do more on the 250, most people probably always have more to learn and improve on, but it feels like I'm at the point where something bigger would be better suited. You're obviously more experienced than I and have been through all this junk first-hand so it could be that I'm way off base. I dunno, I haven't taken a 600 out for more than a few miles so I don't know what the difference really is. Passing and riding 2 up are no big thing obviously, they're just a pain in the rear end. Sometimes you run into that pack of cars that you wish you could zip past all at once rather than squeezing in one at a time. Well, it's really what you want out of riding. If your goal is to have fun, then you should buy bikes that you have fun on. If you're looking to improve more as a rider, then sticking with the 250 for awhile longer will be better than jumping up to a 600 as soon as you'll be safe on it. My only goal here is to try and help give a little perspective on things. I've definitely bought bikes for grin factor alone, and if you wait until you master a bike to move up, you'll never buy anything made in the last 20 years. It's just really about what you want out of riding. The 250 will help you learn to really carry cornerspeed and help you develop good riding techniques, and the 600 will have a shitload of power, amazing brakes, and amazing suspension, look great, and you'll love it for a bunch of different reasons. If you buy a 600 though, I promise if you ever get back on a 250 you'll love the hell out of it.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2009 23:42
|
|
|
What's damaged on the bike? Looks like just fairing damage plus maybe some other minor stuff...buy it back, pocket the change, and keep riding it.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2009 22:54
|
|
|
Methusulah posted:I would have, but I just don't have the inclination to mess with it. As far as I know, the insurance company has already towed it to wherever they do something with it. I just don't have the money for more gear or parts either, all the insurance money went to paying off school already. It's a sad situation. Probably not. The damage isn't horrible and usually the front end will bend before the frame bends on a 250. If that boat has sailed, it's sailed...nothing that can be done about it. On to the next bike
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2009 23:26
|
|
|
-Inu- posted:Also, you could always consider the "sport touring" options that Kawi/Yamaha offer; ZZR600/YZF600R. The ZZR is the exact same bike performance wise as the '03 ZX6R so it is a full on supersport, but it's decently more comfortable and cheaper to insure than your standard supersport. I priced insurance on a ZZR and it was double what my 250 is, which is quite a bit cheaper than what a CBR600 would have been, but it's going to vary heavily person to person. I'd at least give it a look if you truly want a bigger bike though. The earlier zzr/zx6e is a fantastic bike. I moved up to one after my 250 and loved it and rode it for 50,000 miles, from all day trips up and down cali to trackdays. Made from 93-04, so there's a lot of them out there, and good on insurance too. Z3n fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Oct 21, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2009 04:41
|
|
|
Methusulah posted:That sounds really awesome actually. Yamaha had the fz6 here [wait, is that what we're talking about? -ed], and I really couldn't figure the difference between it and the R6 besides slight differences in the looks. I had never really thought about it, but that makes more sense. The worst part is that I can't even think about a bike right now because of other expenses that may or may not come up. Unless I find a good answer on financing, or get a substantial raise, I'm stuck dreaming again. Of course i got my first bike because my brother basically bullied me into it, I'm just too frugal sometimes. Hopefully he'll be back from New Zealand in time to give me some more irresponsible advice. The FZ6 and the YZF600R are 2 different bikes. I misspoke and should have said ZX6E. The FZ6 is the last gen R6 with a more upright seating position, and the ZX6E and the YZF600R were older model sportbikes from when a sportbike could still be somewhat comfortable.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2009 04:26
|
|
|
sectoidman posted:http://www.suncoastcyclesports.com/servlet/the-14840/86-dsh-07-Kawasaki-Ninja-250/Detail I wouldn't use anything but the recommended spark plugs in it. Any particular reason why? Cabledude, nice bike
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2009 17:33
|
|
|
asdfsdfg posted:I've had my little red 08/09 250 for three months or so now. Have about 2200 KMs on the clock, but I pretty much just use it around town going to and from work. About 10% speedo error is standard on pretty much all motorcycles.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2009 19:36
|
|
|
OGS-Remix posted:Is there any way to fix that? I dunno if it's correct, but I primarily use my speedo to determine when I should switch gears. Are tachometers off as well? Switch to a 120/70 profile front tire (if stock is a 120/60). Besides that, no way to actually fix the gauge, you'll adjust to it. Or you can go the bicycle speedo route.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2009 17:30
|
|
|
frozenphil posted:Does anyone have any experience with re-valving the front shocks on the new gen 250Rs? I'd specifically like information about good aftermarket solutions. I'm getting tired of the front of the bike doing its best submarine impression whenever I even think about using the brakes. The drat thing will bottom out when I hit the brakes just walking the bike. You need to respring them. Valving adjustments will depend on you and your riding style...if they're damping rod forks I'd look into racetech emulators, there's no "revalving" of a damping rod fork.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2009 04:11
|
|
|
250s aren't fast compared to other motorcycles. Their real gain is in the light weight and general flickability/fun factor of riding one. No other bike lets you get pinned and work the gearbox like that without very, very illegal stuff. Your DR will absolutely feel faster, due to gearing and the low end that a single's gonna have. And gearboxes can take a few thousand miles to wear in, but a modern bike is going to take a different touch on clutchless shifting from an older bike or a dirtbike. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Nov 23, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2009 18:05
|
|
|
Chill_Bebop posted:So you don't rev up your bike to get a big grin on your face? All I'm saying is that the 250 seemed really slow to rev and even when it got up there, didn't really seem like the engine was screaming too loud. Are you sure it wasn't having some sort of mechanical issue? Because you should be able to hear a stock 250 without any issue at 250, it's gonna feel like it's about to explode and be screaming away even with the stock exhaust. It sounds like there's some kind of problem with the bike.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2009 23:26
|
|
|
Chill_Bebop posted:Pretty much. frozenphil is reading a little too much into what I was saying. It just did not sound like it was really at redline. I don't know any other way I can say it, but if anyone wants to make any more snap judgments on my character and riding style go ahead. You need to ride a 4 cylinder 250. That's what you're looking for. Or one of the 400s, but really a 4 cylinder 250 is what you want. 20k redline, little loving screamers of engines. I do agree with everything you say there though. The bikes really show their value in being forgivable, flickable, and just fun to toss around. They're not going to wow you with power or brakes or anything like that, they're just easy to ride and fun as a result.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2009 02:01
|
|
|
Chill_Bebop posted:I love small displacement, multiple cylinder motors, like old European racing V8s under 3 liters, so I'd probably adore a 4 cylinder 250. It's not exactly the same thing but ever since I got rid of my CL350 I've wanted a CB 350 Four. I had a chance to ride an old (75?) CB400 I4 recently and it was loving awesome. Highly recommended. I haven't had a chance to ride one of the new ninjas, it's possible the top end is a little more neutered than it should be. We never got the 250cc I4s. Probably because they cost only slightly less than a 600 when they came out.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2009 06:30
|
|
|
Ribsauce posted:I just looked at an '03 250 I am probably going to buy,. 2500 miles, 1100 dollars, runs fine, but has some rust spots on the muffler part below the fairing. Can I just clean this? How big a problem is this? Also the handlebars are slightly bent but I don't think it should matter at all. Everything else is fine, with a few scratches from a no speed drop Buy it. That's a great deal, pretty much the perfect starter deal. I'm also suspicious that the price is too low, but then again, I have a friend who will dump bikes at 500-1000$ below market value just because he wants rid of them. Obviously, you should look over it carefully, but you really can't go too wrong at that price.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2009 01:12
|
|
|
Ribsauce posted:Alright bros, I bought the Ninja, rode it around for 20 minutes in my neighborhood, nothing seemed wrong. He did suggest I go get all the fluids checked and changed which I am planning on. About what should this run me? Is it easy to do myself? The tires look fine treadwise. What do I check to see if they are old? Way more info than you'd ever want on tires in here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3174783 The section on date codes is what you're looking for though. You can easily change the oil yourself. Brakes are also easy if you've got a little mechanical experience. Coolant flush is sort of a pain in the rear end because you'll probably end up splashing coolant all over everything, but also not horrible. Are you interested in learning to work on the bike or are you willing to just pay off a dealership to take care of it?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2009 20:26
|
|
|
Ribsauce posted:I have literally no mechanical experience but I do want to learn. The most complex thing I have ever done is like change an air filter on my car. But I want to learn and am willing too. Go check out the ninja250.net wiki and buy a service manual. Oil change would be at the top of the priority list and it's got a good walkthrough in the wiki. Don't overtorque your oil drain bolt! Before you do anything, read through the wiki and the service manual (once you get it) and ask questions here if you're unsure on anything. My first job I ever did was changing the clutch on one of my bikes, I read through the service manual like 5 times and then it went really smoothly. Good luck and don't be shy about questions
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2009 22:36
|
|
|
How much are you paying? Do you have pictures of it? How old are the tires? Also, can you fly down there and ride it back? I know you just completed your MSF, but it could be an option. Fly down, spend a day familiarizing yourself with the bike, change the oil, lube the chain, and ride on home?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2010 01:02
|
|
|
the walkin dude posted:Does anyone know if electrical work at a bike shop would be pricey in general? Unless it's something very simple, it will be stupid pricey. So basically, you may as well do it yourself. The 250 wiki has all of the info you should need. If you still have problems, post up and we'll try and figure it out. Radnor, you have to look at the big picture: If you figure 300$ for tires, 350$ for transportation, 100$ for a new chain and installation your 1200$ bike just became a 1950$ bike. If everything is perfect. Chances are, since it only has 100 miles on it, unless it's been started and run regularly, the gas is toast and the carbs are clogged. That's gonna be another couple hundred unless you do it yourself. I don't know what your situation is like, but this is a situation where it's very easy to be penny wise but dollar dumb. Do you have anyone who'd help you work on the bike? If you can do that, then your costs will go down a bit, and you might be able to make a deal out of it.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2010 02:04
|
|
|
Radnor posted:Awesome points - thanks for the advice. I hadn't thought about any maintenance items. My sister did get back to me and said the tires are the OEMs and need replacing, so I searched CL again and found a local bike around $2,000 that I'm going look at tomorrow. I consider it a major plus that the post has sentences and isn't written in caps. That's a very nice looking 250, almost a little too nice. :paranoid: Of course, that's not the end of the world, and if you ride it for awhile, even if it has a low speed tipover, you should still get the vast majority of your money out of it. Or you can keep it forever. I'd ask about the valves, too, they should have been done at 6k, I believe.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2010 04:03
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 02:58 |
|
|
Just leave it be, it's fine. Congrats on the bike!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2010 07:40
|
|