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Posing with Tank DogŠ accessory kit. I have crazy fantasies of painting the whole bike fluorescent yellow to match the helmet. I haven't made any modifications yet, unless you can count the wristwatch strapped to the left mirror. The first mod I'm planning on is flush mount signals in front, relocating the rear signals to the side pods in the tail (DOT compliance be damned!), and possibly eliminating the rear fender. I also wanna get a Ram mount for my TomTom, but gently caress that until I've got a job again...
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Aug 5, 2009 04:03
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blugu64 posted:We've all got that scrape on the fairing, at least I do. It's like exactly the same. I'll grab a photo tomorrow.  Mine is on the right side.
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Aug 5, 2009 06:01
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BlueBayou posted:ninja250.org is a brilliant site, but often gives you waaayyy more info than necessary. This is very true, you really have to be able to sift through the guides and figure out which steps might just be overkill for your situation. I like that it has too much, instead of too little info though.
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Aug 7, 2009 18:13
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Where do you plan on going with THAT
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Aug 8, 2009 01:46
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deliverator posted:Just now when I got it home and parked and switched off, it felt and sounded like there was a hair dryer running inside the engine for a minute or so, blowing hot air. Um... Is that normal? I've never had an air-cooled vehicle, do they sometimes do that even after they've been powered down? Its water cooled, and that's normal. Its just the radiator fan running a little.
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Aug 9, 2009 02:30
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Also, what kind of roadway are you experiencing this on? I notice my bike tends to track in the grooves on the freeway a little bit. Its worse with the actual seams in the concrete. California's freeways are a special bunch, though.
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Aug 10, 2009 05:53
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Personally, I think I'd like to remove the giant NINJA in funky scratchy script on the lower fairing. I just got to thinking today of actually painting that lower plastic a nice flat black.
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Aug 11, 2009 01:16
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blugu64 posted:I don't think I'd ever paint my bike but if I did, I'd use glow in the dark paint, or cover it in reflective tape. Maybe re-do the yellow in the same fluorescent paint as my helmet, and flat black on the bottom... rolling eyesore yessss...
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Aug 11, 2009 01:26
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True riding boots are the only bit of gear I'm missing, and it scares me a little. I need to wait on whether I get this job I'm interviewing for to get a great pair though. No work sucks rear end. I've been wearing something like these, which are "better" than the cheap rear end hiking boots I had before, but still just cheap Payless crap. 
sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Aug 11, 2009 |
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Aug 11, 2009 20:13
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UserNotFound posted:Whaaaat, those 6" Caterpiller "2nd Shift" boots, and I've abused mine for going on 8 years now! Admittedly they're nothing like a true motorcycle boot, but I've treated mine like crap and they've taken everything I've thrown at them, including dropping a bike on my foot, letting cement set up on them, getting run over by a pickup truck, and kicking nearly everything in sight. I may pick up their "Indiana FX" which is the 9" equivalent...they'd certainly provide better ankle protection while riding, and I can wear them at work. Those boots specifically would probably be pretty decent, except that was just the first similarly designed pair I found with GIS. Mine are from Payless, they cost $5. They cover my ankles more than a pair of tennis shoes would, but there's really not much structural support like a real pair of MC boots would have. And my "nice" work boots are just low tops, so they wouldn't really work either. e: these are mine:  WATERPROOF*  * like everything else made of cheap plastic sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Aug 13, 2009 |
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Aug 13, 2009 00:52
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I'll usually ride with the choke on partway for about 10 minutes or so. I turn on the cold bike with the choke open all the way, and immediately adjust the choke so the idle is around 4k or so. I don't usually start the bike until I'm sitting on it, ready to go. I'll ride with it on for those first 10 minutes or so, adjusting the choke at lights to keep it below 4k (I could probably go lower), until the temp gauge is past the first two vertical marks. By that point, I can usually shut off the choke completely, and the bike will idle and take off in first without a problem. Much sooner than that, and it slowly drops to around 500 rpm at idle if I don't goose it a little, and it hesitates when I try to take off from a light.
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Aug 14, 2009 03:37
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So I've kinda half-heartedly been considering swapping out my stock brake lines for SS. Is there really any reason for me to go beyond the "that would be neat" phase here? I've got stock discs, with Galfer Sintered pads up front and something in the rear. I haven't really had any problems stopping, it just seems like it requires quite a bit of force some times, though its not air-in-the-lines mushy or anything. Maybe I should just bleed the lines first?
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Aug 21, 2009 03:24
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Nerobro posted:SS lines do not change the amount of force needed to brake the bike. Bleeding the brakes doesn't help that either. bleeding affects brake fade. Pads affect bite, and feel, and fade. What exactly does that entail? This feels kinda like "if you need to ask, you can't afford it." 
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Aug 21, 2009 04:42
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That one in the foreground looks like the oil screen cover. The one next to the filter cover, which I'm assuming is the one you removed, looks like the regular drain plug, especially if it had a (crush?) washer on it. Maybe the oil screen on the new bikes has its own drain plug for some reason?? It doesn't on the pre-redesign ninjas anyway. Anyway, I think you're fine. You can use the old crush washer over again without worrying about it, in my experience. Assuming that plug in front in that picture is in fact the oil screen cover, you might want to pull that little housing off as well and check the screen if this is the first oil change you've done on the bike. Its just a reusable mesh dome screen that catches REALLY big poo poo in the case (like loose gasket material from assembly). E: Yeah, you're fine. That plug you removed is in fact the old drain plug, and you can change the oil from now on without removing that one. sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Aug 22, 2009 |
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Aug 22, 2009 07:07
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televiper posted:Decided I should be more like sklnd. That's kinda neat, how are your front signal stalks mounted?
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Aug 29, 2009 06:05
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Upside Potential posted:Im going to poo poo on your party and say that while the 2009 Ninja 250 is a cool bike... it loving sucks up the MSF U-Turn Box. Yeah sorry friend, there were two in my class and both of them did the box flawlessly, with about an extra 1.5 feet on two sides. Both guys were R1 riders.
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Aug 30, 2009 05:47
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Silently, we sneak up behind you an- Who am I kidding. 
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Sep 26, 2009 01:00
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Yeah, the choke is a big stamped metal slide right on the front of the carbs. Can't miss it when you move the lever. Also, keep in mind that the 1300 RPM level is really a baseline. If the bike wants to idle at 1700, that's fine. Basically it should be somewhere around 1300 RPM. Still a good idea to do the adjustments/carb sync, though.
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Oct 1, 2009 20:06
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Sphyx posted:Troubleshooting a that wouldn't start at first, and if it ever does will idle just fine, but dies the moment the clutch is pulled in 1st. It only sat for maybe 36 hours, I've been riding it regularly for months. The carbs haven't been cleaned in a long while, so that was recommended to me, as well as checking the spark plugs and making sure the battery's charged. Anything else I can check/test? I'm throwing in a bonus oil change while I'm working on it since the weather's still nice. So much for studying~ Stupid question, but is the kickstand up when you're letting the clutch out in gear? If so, then maybe the sidestand safety switch is messed up. Or the clutch switch.
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Oct 6, 2009 03:25
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Man, I think I agree about the cursed bit. How long did you have that bike? Couple months? Its a shame, it was in super shape when you first posted about it.
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Oct 17, 2009 00:53
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sectoidman posted:The dealer gave me CR7s instead of CR8s, and I didn't notice until I went to gap them. According to ninja250.org: quote:AGAIN: DO NOT run anything other than NGK or Nippon-Denso plugs in this engine. The NGK part number you want is CR8HSA. Number CR7HSA will work, but only in really cold weather (not "California Cold"). Be sure to switch them when the warmer weather reappears. So maybe they run hotter? I would try and get the right ones instead, regardless.
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Oct 28, 2009 20:06
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OGS-Remix posted:Is there any way to fix that? I dunno if it's correct, but I primarily use my speedo to determine when I should switch gears. Are tachometers off as well? A common cheap fix is to install a small digital bicycle computer. It will read from a magnet mounted on the front wheel or brake rotor, and give you a much more accurate reading as long as its set up properly. Here's a way-in-depth guide on ninja250.org.
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Nov 3, 2009 15:22
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I will say that my 2004 sounds much louder than the few new models I've heard. I haven't ridden a new one to properly compare, but the few I've heard up close really did sound like sewing machines compared to mine.
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Nov 24, 2009 06:11
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I'd love to get in on that, but I am also moving and don't know when I'll actually get around to some real maintenance. Some time in January is likely. I'll finally have a garage to do it in, though! 
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Dec 26, 2009 08:51
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the walkin dude posted:Would my Ninja, after being stuck outside in winter under cover, be allright to run? That's my number one question. What should I ask the shop to look for? The chain is allright and rust-free, the brake discs are somewhat rusty, and it's in otherwise good-looking shape. I would change the oil, you said you already changed the stabilized fuel... Other than that, it should be fine. I'd do a quick visual check of everything else, of course: tires, hoses, controls, lights, etc. The carbs may need a cleaning if you just poured sta-bil in the tank and parked it without running it through the carbs for a bit, too. Another thing, when you store it like that for an extended period, get a battery tender and take the battery out of the bike.
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Mar 15, 2010 00:11
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Ammanas posted:Girlfriends 250 has a very unstable idle. Bumps around .5 to 4k. Messing with the idle screw helps but its a constant fiddling practice. I like this sentiment. "What do I have to do? Don't tell me a likely solution because I don't want to do that." Was the gas stabilized at all when it was stored? Was it prepped for sitting for a while at all?
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Apr 11, 2010 22:50
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Another tip I've heard is to get up to a higher rpm (like on the highway) and close the throttle quickly for a few seconds, repeating this a few times. Closing the throttle with all that vacuum sucks a bunch of gas through the smallest bits of the carb, the pilot jet. Combined with seafoam, that might help clean everything out enough to run better. I was just kinda making fun before. Cleaning the carbs isn't as bad as it sounds, Nerobro's thread is a nice resource if you've never done it before.
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Apr 11, 2010 23:33
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sectoidman posted:drat, that sucks. I'm assuming the person who did it didn't leave a note; have you contacted your insurance yet? If you have comprehensive/collision they should cover the cost of a new fairing. Alternatively, if you don't have that coverage, its not impossible to mix up a little ABS cement to join that back up. That sucks.
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Apr 18, 2010 15:59
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kylej posted:been pricing out insurance on all sorts of new bikes. My Progressive insurance rate with an SV and ZX-6R is cheaper than the one I got with my 250 My coverage with Progressive dropped like 40% after my first year of experience with no claims, I was happy about that. Still the 250 though.
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Apr 19, 2010 20:03
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See, you got me all excited because in that picture it matches my high viz EXO-700 just about perfectly.
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Apr 22, 2010 03:56
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-Inu- posted:New gens use this. Had to use a 4 foot fuckoff pipe as a breaker bar while my roommate stood on the rear brake with the bike in gear to get it off. I used the handle to my MC jack when I had to loosen the rear axle nut. Worked like a charm.
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Apr 22, 2010 16:24
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:oh god. Someone. Please live near fort lewis. http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mcy/1695444845.html Hey hey hey. That has 850ccs too many for this thread, buddy. (I want it. Seattle's too far away.  )VV Jus' foolin. I think there's more of a 250 solidarity than general Ninja solidarity, though. 
sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Apr 23, 2010 |
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Apr 23, 2010 22:34
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Manawski posted:I'm pretty sure nobody rides a Ninja 500 in CA. If they do, they are very quiet. This is pretty funny considering the circumstances. (There is at least one person, and he just happens to be deaf)
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Apr 24, 2010 01:34
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frozenphil posted:This is one of the main benefits of the Ninja 250, in my opinion. You can wail the poo poo out of the thing on the backroads without breaking the speed limit by much. This right here is the truth. I squidded it up a little on my way to an appointment yesterday and tailed a Ferrari that was driving spiritedly on Sunset from the 405. We rarely broke 50 in the straights, but it all sounded so good. 
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Aug 9, 2010 21:49
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Without knowing anything about how it actually runs, it looks like she managed to break the largest fairing piece clean in two. Add to that that its the "special" color and that's just crappy luck. The fairings are going to be the most expensive thing to replace. You could offer something like $500-700 to her and fix it to a rideable condition as a more naked bike, assuming the frame/forks/engine/etc. are still in good shape (check out sklnd's naked EX250 for what I mean). I doubt you would be able to come out ahead trying to restore it with fairings and all unless you've got super duper junk yard savvy and your own spray booth/vinyl cutter. If the mechanicals are hosed at all I would just walk away personally. You/she might be able to part the rest of it out though.
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Aug 10, 2010 16:22
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So its valve time for my 2004. 6 of the 8 valves went fine. All four intake valves are specced, as well as the two inside exhaust valves (right valve on cyl. 1 and left valve on cyl. 2). The two outer exhaust valves, however, are giving me major grief and I can't figure it out. Basically I can loosen the tappet nut, but then I can't seem to rotate the adjustment screw independently of the nut. The fact that I can't really even see what I'm doing doesn't help of course, but the other fact that I successfully did 75% of the job tells me that its not all me. I'm using just a long 9mm socket and a precision screwdriver through the middle of it. The oil makes everything tough to grip, but again I managed to do the other valves without anywhere near as much trouble. Is there any chance that the nut is seized on the screw or something? Is there any chance I'll be able to find a Kawi valve adjustment tool in Los Angeles on a Sunday? I'm quitting for the night, hopefully they cooperate tomorrow morning. 
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Sep 12, 2010 04:15
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I bought a new pair of tires and mistakenly bought the stock brand from a local shop without even realizing it until they were mounted on the wheels. loving tracks all over the goddamn place on the grooved concrete. At least they were relatively cheap and in stock for the ride that weekend. I'll just deal with it for now as its mainly a commuter. Next set will definitely be an exercise in planning ahead though.
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Oct 19, 2010 04:59
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I'll start the bike in the morning and let it run while I put on my helmet and gloves (about 2-3 minutes, tops), adjusting the choke so its around 4-5k. I make a left out of my street and then a right and immediately get on the freeway (total from my driveway of about 400 feet maybe?) and kill the choke completely as I'm headed up the onramp. If I'm going to be in stop and go, I usually leave it on partially until the temp gauge is just above the lowest line. Once its past that point, it'll usually idle fine at stoplights, or only takes a couple small throttle stabs to keep up.
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Feb 10, 2011 05:17
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Desertfox621 posted:Instead of the tool, I just used a deep socket and tiny screwdriver. Worked out fine for me! I did this with mine, but I couldn't get any loving torque on the socket to tighten the nut after adjusting the screw. I'd get it to where I thought the nut was snug enough that I could let off the screwdriver, then go in with a handle and tighten the nut all the way, but it would change the clearance. It was especially annoying with the middle exhaust valves. Next time I'm either hunting down the tool or hacking together my own.
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Feb 24, 2011 03:27
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mutt2jeff posted:Gas is fine, carbs are clean, plugs are good. Its probably just a dog of a bike. If you're below 5k you're doing it wrong on these bikes.
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Apr 9, 2011 23:55
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