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Dren posted:Guys, Sony is trying. You mention the lens system but not the app development thing they are doing for some of their cameras? http://camera.developer.sony.com
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Nov 11, 2013 17:41
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change my name posted:I already have an X-700, but my digital camera is the K01 and I didn't really want to buy another DSLR/Mirrorless. You can also just buy a MD adapter anyway, they aren't exactly expensive. There are tons on ebay and they're like $12. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 01:23
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life is killing me posted:
I think you'd get a lot of benefit of going to aperture priority mode, and trying to find a faster lens. 4.5 is harder to use in low light, and I'm sure the auto mode is doing something kinda dumb due to the contrast from the outdoor lights. The noise is coming from the camera having to use a pretty high ISO to compensate for the aperture and low light, there's not a ton you can do about high ISO noise besides using a lower ISO or getting a newer camera.
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Nov 20, 2013 18:47
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xzzy posted:SD slots have a small metal switch in them that needs to be depressed for the device to acknowledge you have inserted a card. You could also just like tape a thin bit of cardboard on the top or whatever, so long as the contacts themselves aren't damaged then the card will work fine
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Nov 25, 2013 17:41
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Well, on Google+ you can upload big image files but they love to put lovely filters on everything and you have to manually disable it on each image. It is kinda useful if you have an android phone since you can auto upload images and skip the steps of plugging it into a computer.
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Dec 14, 2013 01:57
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If it's new enough you could try sending it back to Nikon, but kit lenses go for like $30-60 on eBay or KEH.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:09
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I see one in the profile downloader for the DT 11-18mm F4.5-5.6, on the A350. It looks like there's not any major differences between the A350 and A380, so that one should work fine.
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Jan 28, 2014 17:43
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Well, Lightroom has all of Sony's E-mount lenses (not saying much), so they're working together, just not on the A-mount side.
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Jan 28, 2014 17:52
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Personally I always shoot in Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority is only particularly useful for moving cars and maybe birds, honestly. A mode gives you a lot of creative control in most situations, and it's most useful for many types of scenes.
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Feb 21, 2014 03:14
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8th-snype posted:Speak for yourself, I have 4 rolls in my freezer. Ok, so you can use it, but what the hell are you going to do after you finish shooting?
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Mar 30, 2014 08:29
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Are you sure it's not just flaring like a motherfucker? I've seen some shots similar to that with working copies of that lens. If it was actually broken I'd expect to see bad color or off focus more.
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Apr 9, 2014 03:20
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I don't own any L glass, but I've had Sony and Canon lenses with wobbly or noisy focus extensions before, that sounds about right to me.
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Apr 9, 2014 03:40
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There's also various connectors to plug your camera's SD card or USB cable into the iPad or eyeFi cards if you have a dual slot camera.
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Apr 10, 2014 06:59
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Yeah 3 year old card would be pushing it, even more so if it's a high capacity or a cheaper card.
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Apr 28, 2014 02:32
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The 1000D is kinda old, to be honest, but as a first DSLR you could easily do worse. It'll be a serviceable basic DSLR for you to learn with.
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May 4, 2014 03:04
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The 1100d is also a totally basic entry DSLR. If it helps, it's the camera basically every mom and American tourist ever owns. You should be able to find a decent used mid-entry DSLR for cheap if you dig in the right places. These basic entry cameras from Canon will work for learning, but I was never a big fan of the T3/1000d, and considering one of the old Canon thread titles was "Don't buy a T3" I'd say that's a popular enough opinion.
Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 03:16 on May 4, 2014 |
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May 4, 2014 03:13
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Any of the Canon Txi (the i is important), Sony has the a57 or a580, and I don't know enough about Nikon or Pentax to suggest anything there. The important thing with a first time DSLR is trying to find as many cameras as you can and putting hands on them. A lot of super-entry level DSLR's tend to feel like cramped plastic trash, and each brand has it's own quirks that show up on the body or lenses. Just go out to an electronics store and play with everything they have on display, then dig through the internet until you find a deal on one you like or a model older.
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May 4, 2014 03:40
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You're going to have to define "new" canon, since I see the T5i actually new with kit lens, and a heap of the rebel line in the used body only section.
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May 4, 2014 23:32
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Just use a mirrorless, then they can't tell if it's a point and shoot or not.
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May 7, 2014 03:10
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It is, these signs seem to be placed outside of the art shops and paid photo booths with famous people, like most conventions I've seen. Just, the last one I was in simply had a sign that said "no photography of art" and didn't have any of this confusion.
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May 7, 2014 09:02
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It's a convention man, the only sculptures are $100 plastic animes.
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May 7, 2014 10:02
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They might, they have some anti-corruption stuff as part of the read/write cycle, and they're generally less dense than an SD or MicroSD card, which helps as well.
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May 13, 2014 17:28
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They are mostly saying that because they want you to buy their batteries, obviously. I've heard good things about Wasabi batteries, but remember to check amazon reviews or whatever to make sure that it's not the rare battery that actually will blow up your camera and charger.
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May 14, 2014 03:28
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For the kit lens, go look on ebay for a Canon 18-55 kit lens, they should be around $50ishUSD. The Aperture blades exist only to make the bokeh more circular basically. My older 6 bladed lens has bokeh that's a hexagon, while more blades means it's more circular. It shouldn't affect the rest of the image in any meaningful fashion. E: VV It'd look about like this 
Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 04:03 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 19, 2014 23:45
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Slavvy posted:What purpose would this have even served when it was new? 640x480 isn't remotely better than film in any way, why would anyone have even bought one? Scanners existed back then. A lot of people wanted one because it was a cool new digital camera, and I have seen a ton of them used for making ID photos quickly since it spits out a perfectly usable image.
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Jun 6, 2014 21:13
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If you look around you can find them for that price in normal stores like Walmart or whatever too.
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Jun 11, 2014 17:35
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The plastic ones are a little better for if you drop the camera on the hood, since the shattering will slow the camera before it hits the ground. I don't know how much they'd help for something as heavy as a 6x7 though, so the rubber should be fine. For the shapes, completely round should be fine unless your lens is particularly wide angle, square or tulip would be better if there's a chance the lens hood would start to block a bit of image.
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Jun 27, 2014 21:20
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Like I said, unless the lens is pretty wide or a unusual construction any cheap round lens hood should work fine. Those rubber ones have different positions so you can even adjust as needed.
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Jun 28, 2014 00:23
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1tTBncIsm8 I don't suggest you do this to your lenses, but they seem to handle tiny metal sticks well. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Jun 29, 2014 |
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Jun 29, 2014 16:23
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The battery should be in the film, and since it ejected the cover that shouldn't be too much of an issue. This should help unstick the film. Also your first frame is going to be hosed, and the second might be iffy since you pulled the pack out a few times. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 01:17
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They have an alternate method where you break a little bit off the front of the film pack and sorta use it to press the film down and let it set for a few days, in their older videos.
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Jul 7, 2014 02:57
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Google Drive, Skydrive/OneDrive/MS's poo poo, and Dropbox are three big ones for that. Skydrive gives you 25GB for free, Google is 15GB, and Dropbox is 2GB, but Google is the cheapest if you decide you need more space, at $2/month per 100GB.
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Jul 8, 2014 16:45
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70-300mm is a lovely walkaround length, but it's good for portraits or decently lit sports. It's not a great bird length unless you can get decently close either, unless you pair it with a 1.5x teleconverter. If you're interested in birds on a budget it could work well enough, though you will be fighting noise once you get home. edit: VV I thought I typed that here, oops. Pidgeons are slow and hard to scare so it'll work fine for them, just if you're interested in easier scared birds you'll be wanting the length from something bigger. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 17:57
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You might want this version instead, since it comes with the lens cleaning solution that it's meant to be used with.
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Aug 11, 2014 01:21
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Slavvy posted:That was the first result in google The exact same way it knows when to stop the normal autofocus motor/screwdrive. It still has all the systems and coding to focus those lenses, it just lacks the screw.
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Aug 15, 2014 08:51
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Your camera's bundled software should be able to do basic RAW adjustments and stuff. If you don't have the CD it should be up for download on the company's website.
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Aug 15, 2014 19:14
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You can always subscribe to photo version of the creative cloud for $10 a month if you don't want to throw the $150 at lightroom all at once.
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Aug 15, 2014 20:46
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Since it was slightly greasy, I'd make sure your aperture blades are intact, and check the moving parts of the the lens barrel for cracks and missing bits.
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Aug 23, 2014 11:59
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In general, most consumer level digital cameras overexpose about 1/3rd or so of a stop. If you want to be super precise, you should just buy a light meter and keep it on the camera.
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Aug 24, 2014 23:42
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 08:39 |
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You should be able to trust the histogram and zebra indicators though? The your camera shows should match the one Lightroom will give you for any given exposure. All you need to do is find how much your camera over/under exposes and keep that number set in the EV comp menu forever, and you should get fine exposures. edit: Oh, it's an a7, I missed that. With Sony cameras you want to use -1/3 EV and also consider using manual ISO in Aperture Priority since it first tries for 18% grey, then it tries to get 1/60s or 1/120s in A mode. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Aug 25, 2014 |
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Aug 25, 2014 12:00
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