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I am planning on going to Hong Kong in a few months and was wondering what the best thing to do for gear would be: 1. Bring my Nikon d90 and my primes and look like a tourist. Also buy extra Hawaiian shirts and a fanny pack. 2. Buy something less conspicuous like a sony nex3 or a Nikon 1, while I'm here in Canada. It wouldn't stand out and it wouldn't be that expensive. Warranty wouldn't be an issue, and I could also take it places that I wouldn't bring my dslr. 3. Buy a less conspicuous camera when I'm in Hong Kong. No warranty (or difficult to get) but it would be cheaper and I could also see if I actually wanted or needed it. 4. Some combination of these.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2014 08:22 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 04:52 |
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Captain Catapult posted:I trawled "all of Hong Kong" to find the best deal on Canon 6D, mainly by visiting stores found after reading multiple articles from "where to buy cheap cameras in HK" google searches. I know Nikon is awful about greymarket, but how is, say, fujifilm? For example, if I were to buy an X100S in Hong Kong, would it be possible to get it fixed under warranty in Canada? Thanks for the recommendations guys
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2014 11:52 |
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Rotten Cookies posted:I've been using wasabi batteries for my pentax, and they've been fine. I feel they last just as long as the battery that came with the camera. And it came with the charger. And they're much much cheaper. DigitalRev is basically the top gear of the camera world. It's entertainment above all else. They are kinda snobbish but in real life they are really nice people. As for youtube channels, you don't really have too many choices; you have your 2 hour instructional spergfests, or a 14 year old with an iphone doing vertical-filming unboxings.
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# ¿ May 14, 2014 18:06 |
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I saw a guy take a cap off a UV filtered lens, open a filter wallet, then put another UV filter on top.
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2014 10:42 |
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SoundMonkey posted:Let me tell you about a bunch of retards called Olympus and a 4/3 lens that has "140-600mm" written on it. Not joking. There's an olympus superzoom with some absurd numbers printed right onto the lens, like 24-600 or something. Sony advertises the rx10 and rx100 as their full frame equivalent focal lengths, but in a less obviously false way than olyumpus.
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# ¿ Aug 14, 2014 21:34 |
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Oh here's another, the Panasonic Lumix FZ1000 which as a massive 25-400mm focal length actual focal length: 9.1-146mm
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# ¿ Aug 15, 2014 01:30 |
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If you use an older screwdrive lens (for example the 50mm f/1.8D or the 135mm f/2 DC), it doesn't have an autofocus motor inside, and they use an in-body motor to do the focussing Cheaper Nikon DSLRs (the D3000, D5000 series) don't have that in-body motor. Thus, if you use an older screw drive lens on these, you won't get autofocus. However, in the viewfinder, you get a little dot that shows up when you are in focus. In the newer bodies (D5200 and newer, I think), it also comes with little arrows that tell you which direction to rotate the focus ring, then the dot shows up when you are in focus.
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# ¿ Aug 15, 2014 04:13 |
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Obviously what you have to do is set up a tripod, then take 2 shots for each exposure value +-3 stops, then merge them in photoshop
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2014 01:07 |
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Best case scenario is a grey market camera Don't buy it
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2014 06:38 |
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HDR is a useful technique. When done sparingly, you won't even know it. for example, this is garbage: don't make your photos look like that and you're already doing better than most people.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2014 00:50 |
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If they're bad and you know you'll never use them and you have better shots of it, then by all means delete them. No point in keeping something bad when you already have something good.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2014 00:57 |
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It's because some print magazine shot some video in 4k and took a still lfrom that and put it on the cover and now people are convinced it's a thing. It sounds like something even dorkroom best friend hero a++ photographer krock wouldn't say.
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# ¿ Nov 3, 2014 10:46 |
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Just admit it, you can't make art.
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2014 03:33 |
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Do a 365 but don't share every day because if you do that you are a terrible person who deserves to use a rebel t3 with a kit lens with a uv filter on it.
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2015 07:09 |
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If you plan on full frame, then either get the 35mm f1.8g FX ($600) or the 35mm f2.8d ($300). They'll both autofocus on your d90 and on every FX camera, but the older 2.8d is not as good as the newer one. Or just buy the 35 DX for $200 anyways, since you're going to end up with the 35 and the 50 in any case.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2015 01:43 |
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There is a how it's made segment but iirc it's like 5 minutes and it only covers the canon 400mm prime or something. There's also a Nikon film about their history and how their lenses are all hand crafted bespoke artisan glass
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2015 22:34 |
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If it's outdoors and sunny 16 conditions, then at 1.8 at 60 and 6400 (the worst case scenario) you are over 13 stops overexposed. At 2.8 at 60 and 2500 (your "best" case scenario), you would only be about 11 stops overexposed. Massive exposure compensation? I was shooting in a cold but sunny day and I was still around 1/125, f8, iso400.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2015 02:58 |
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Looks more purplish, and there's also some green around the drums, so that's chromic abberation. You can get rid of it in lightroom by going into lens correction, color, remove chromic abberation, and then dragging the green and purple sliders. Just make sure it doesn't affect the rest of the picture, though
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# ¿ May 7, 2015 08:01 |
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It can't autofocus with the d autofocus lenses because it doesn't have the screw drive.
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# ¿ May 7, 2015 20:03 |
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I dropped my Nikon D90. The mirror is being weird and isn't going up and down properly about 1/3 of the time. I made a video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U992VFLAWF0 So now I have no idea if I should continue, buy a new dslr, switch to glorious film only, or buy a mirrorless whatever
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2015 06:29 |
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Everything is poo poo Hail lovely Satan.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2015 20:08 |
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Counter point: Contax t2
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2015 23:20 |
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acceptable modes to use: M A S questionable modes to use: P modes not to use: man with golfclub sun flower mountain dancing woman woman with a hat auto.
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# ¿ Sep 30, 2015 07:29 |
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superzooms are superbad and for superidiots
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2015 04:55 |
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Tri x Hp5 Portra Ektar Provia Velvia Astia Tmax Delta 3200 Fomapan Basically all of them
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2015 02:54 |
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i have compiled a comprehensive list of reasons you would shoot jpeg only: 1)
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2016 07:03 |
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just shoot endless shots that look like this and cash in.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2016 05:45 |
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To answer the original poster, don't bother renting the 14-24, just buy it. Once you've used one you'll buy it anyways so save the rental cost
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2016 03:19 |
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Step 1 with watch photography: set the time to 10:10:35.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2016 04:52 |
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Too much Ricoh theta 360 shots to be any good.
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2016 22:37 |
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rather than listen to this poo poo i would rather buy-it-now a gun and a single bullet
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# ¿ May 2, 2016 02:34 |
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As much as I like the FM2 (and FM2n), they're selling for much more than they should be because they are ~all mechanical~. Even more so for the FM3a. The FE2 use batteries for metering/timing, are just as reliable and compact, and sell for almost half the price. There's also the F3, which sells for around the price of the FM2n, and is probably the most solid, reliable, and dependable camera I've ever owned. It also has all of the "pro" features like a removable prism, the ability to use non-AI lenses, and all kinds of winders and backs. It's a little bigger and a lot heavier, though. The FA is a strange one. It's the cheapest, and it's the most technologically advanced. It's also got a case of the 80's unrepairable electronics. You could also go with a different system; since the Nikon F mount is still used, the system isn't the cheapest. The Olympus OM and the Canon FD mounts are both dead, and so you can find good deals on them. The OM cameras are also a lot smaller than the Nikons, and Canon has the New F1, the only camera I would give up my F3 for.
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# ¿ May 29, 2016 20:42 |
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Check out this sweet review of the Fuji 35 f2. http://www.kenrockwell.com/fuji/x-mount-lenses/35mm-f2.htm
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2016 03:43 |
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Also be aware that a lot of drug stores send the film out to process and then you get back some really lovely scans and No negatives. Go to one of the specialists; people say the darkroom is a good place. The only way to find what you like is to try everything. Some films work better in some situations and others work better in other situations. For example, Fujifilm superia is bad if you underexpose, and Kodak portra lets you get away with anything.
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2016 02:40 |
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Also good luck if you buy the standalone and then buy the latest camera, it's not like adobe will ever update it to work with your new camera.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2016 01:45 |
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spog posted:Only you can judge whether 28-100mm (equiv) is enough for your needs. The original and mk2 rx100 is, but the mk3 4 are 24-70 equiv.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2016 20:58 |
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You may be the only person in history who has purchased a ga645 on purpose
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2016 06:22 |
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Gastown is good for touristy photo Kerrisdale camera is not on Fraser it's closer to east Blvd. They process color c41. Thelab does e6 and black and white. The best place for film is beauphoto, or Leo's (but Leo's is the most expensive)
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# ¿ May 8, 2017 22:46 |
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when buying tripods you can pick any two of the following: - cheap - stable - light if you buy a cheap + stable one it will be heavy and then you will end up buying an expensive light one if you buy a cheap + light one it'll be unstable and you'll end up buying an expensive stable one so basically just buy the stable and light one for not cheap right now and save money on not having to buy another tripod.
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# ¿ Oct 20, 2017 02:54 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 04:52 |
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K I M W I P E S I M W I P E S
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# ¿ May 19, 2018 04:34 |