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InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

At what temps do I have to worry about condensation in the lens when coming from outdoors to inside? I just bought a Canon 100-400mm and am paranoid about this now.

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InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

So what do you do if you do see condensation in there? Sounds like a bad thing to have...

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

orange lime posted:

I do this too, but some of them have been in there for literally years and I'd imagine aren't god any more. Have you had any success "regenerating" them by baking in the oven? I tried it once and the bag fell apart and all the beads inside turned brown.
You can get a whole bucket of the stuff for cheap from hobby stores that deal with dried flowers if you need more. Don't let you dog eat it though, that $2000 vet bill would have bought me a nice lens.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

I'm a beginner, so this is probably a beginner mistake, but I've been having a lot of problem with aperture priority mode on my camera.

In full automatic mode my camera was taking a picture at f/4 and shutter at 1/60 second (using a Canon Speedlite flash if that matters). If I put it in aperture priority mode and f/1.8 the camera takes the picture with a shutter speed of 1/10 second. Focus is manual and unchanged between pictures, and ISO was 400 for both.

Why is my camera choosing such a slow shutter speed when I'm in aperture priority mode? None of the pictures turned out at all. :(

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

TheAngryDrunk posted:

The reason you were able to get 1/60 before is because of your flash. In AV mode, your flash isn't on by default. You can turn it on and that should give you a faster shutter speed.
That's odd...I was pretty sure it was firing. I guess that's the first thing I should have checked. Thanks.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

I took a bunch of pictures last night with my new 7D and noticed a lot of noise in most of my pictures like what you can see in the cropped picture below:



1/500s
f/5.7
ISO 1600
400mm

Is there something that I'm doing to get this kind of noise? Not all pictures have it, even at 3200 ISO, but the majority of my pictures from last night are ruined due to it. The red pixels are not so nice. :(

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

sensy v2.0 posted:

Why are you even shooting birds in daylight at ISO 1600?
No idea. I leave my camera ISO to auto because it seems like that's the easiest thing to do. Would I be correct to say I'm screwing up the metering for my camera to be picking ISO 1600?

The picture was taken in a valley with lots of tall trees casting shadows everywhere. The water was a murky brown too.

I'm fine with noise at high ISOs, but not if it's red blotches that are visible even on the uncropped version. Sounds like this is due to a screw-up on my part though, and not something I can expect if I had done everything correctly.

InternetJunky fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Apr 18, 2010

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

bobfather posted:

1. Don't shoot ISO 1600 and expect ISO 100 levels of smoothness.
2. Don't pixel peep.
I have pictures taken at 3200 that don't have this effect at all, so my expectations are set by that.

What is pixel peeping?

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Penpal posted:

Zooming incredibly into a photo, scrutinizing it for irrelevant details
The red pixels at two points of the photo are grouped together and numerous enough that they are clearly visible on the uncropped version, even with the most aggressive noise reduction.

I don't think it's irrelevant and would like to know how to avoid it in the future.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

bobfather posted:

I still believe you're pixel peeping. Viewing an image blown up to full screen on a 24 inch monitor isn't the way you should evaluate images.
I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here, but for the sake of my sanity please check this larger version of the uncropped original and tell me if you can't see what I'm talking about regarding the visible red areas on the bird's head (under the eye) and on the tail. Both areas are big enough in the original that they're not being identified as purely noise by the noise reduction algorithms.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

What kind of metering should I use for a scene like this:

Unfortunately I used spot metering (with the spot being on a super dark bison) so my background went to poo poo.

Also, is there a good primer out there that describes when it's a good idea to change the exposure compensation? I see some photos where people have changed it but I have no idea why they did it.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

dakana posted:

Well, you just described an incidence when you would change exposure compensation -- you know that the bison was super dark, and the spot meter read it and so the exposure was too high. Thus, if you were going to spot meter in a situation like that, you would (ideally) dial in exposure compensation to compensate for the fact that you know the thing you're metering off of if is darker than 18% gray -- meaning you'd decrease the exposure with compensation of, say, -1 stop.
Thanks...I figured it was something like this. I guess I'll need to play around with different lighting conditions to see how it effects the overall picture to use exposure compensation to adjust the exposure rather than the metering method.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Apologies if this is a common question, but what's the best way to get dried water blots off a lens? They are very dried on there.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Anyone have lens suggestions and/or advice for shooting rally car racing?

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Thanks for the advice on the rally car question everyone. Something I couldn't find when I was looking at panning techniques is whether or not to leave IS off or on for my lens while panning.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

I have the opportunity to get a really great lens for cheap, but the lens was dropped at one point and took a bunch of damage. Owner says the lens was sent for repairs and works flawlessly now, but looks rough. It's a local deal so I can go and put my own body on the lens and run some tests, but I'm not sure what to check for really. If you guys were in the same situation what would you look for to ensure the lens is completely fixed?

(it's a 200/1.8)

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Yeah, on second thought I think I might pass even given the ridiculous price.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

poopinmymouth posted:

What's the price? I might want it.
$1800 Canadian. I'm still trying to figure out if it's worth it. That gaping hole seems like a pretty bad thing for keeping out fungus/dust.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

My sister is a pilot for the air ambulance service here in Alberta, Canada. Yesterday she asked me if I could bring her crew some food when they were scheduled to land at the hospital near me, so I lugged my camera along to get some shots of them landing, etc.

Aside from treating me like a terrorist, hospital security warned me that I'd be in trouble if I took any pictures of the hospital itself. That forced me to stand in about the worst spot possible to capture the helicopter landing and all my shots were ruined.

Just wondering if anyone has heard of this type of restriction before in Canada? I figured I'm pretty much screwed since that was probably the most exciting thing to happen for security in months and it was their big moment to flex their muscles, but for next time I'd love to at least be able to show them something that says I'm allowed to shoot whatever I want if I'm on public land, etc.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

tuyop posted:

Is the air ambulance service military at all? Photography is handled internally by the military and we/they're very suspicious of anyone with a camera who isn't authorized. You're not even technically allowed to take photos of your friends on a course or firing rocket launchers or anything.
No, it's a non-profit company contracted by the gov't. Note that taking pictures of the helicopter wasn't a problem, it was taking pictures of the hospital (even if it was a blur in the background). It's a public hospital fwiw.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

RizieN posted:

I've received more information on what they want, her budget is 200-500, she's having a very small wedding at some Mosque, and a family dinner on a Riverboat. She doesn't want any prints...but, which made me laugh, "wants post-processing". I'm guessing she just wants simple documentation of the event, and nothing too fancy.
Run away.

[edit]
Or at least make sure you are protected with a contract spelling out exactly what they get for their whopping $200.

InternetJunky fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Apr 8, 2011

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

tifoso posted:

My question is this: how do you guys shoot moving subjects to get them in sharp focus, particularly ones that don't have a huge presence in the viewfinder?
AI servo with centre-point AF only, and lots of practice.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

a foolish pianist posted:

I take my dSLR and spendy wide lenses on my kayak, up and down mountains, all kinds of places. What's the point of having the camera if you're too scared to take it anywhere interesting?
Couldn't agree more. I think if some people saw what I did with my 7D+600mm they'd have a heart attack. Cameras and lenses aren't fragile fine-china pieces, and on top of that if you have home insurance your gear is likely covered under that in the event something catastrophic does happen.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

BetterLekNextTime posted:

Yeah, I really should get some real insurance- the homeowners insurance wouldn't cover incidental damage.

I'm definitely taking the camera, don't worry. Will just have to figure out how to manage it if we rent kayaks.
Your homeowner insurance won't cover your cameras if you dropped them in the water? You might want to call them to get confirmation. My insurance will cover my equipment even if it takes a spill from my kayak (my exact question to insurance was: "so my $15k in camera gear is covered even if it goes to the bottom of a lake when my kayak tips over").

Also you might want to look into the cotton carrier system if you're going to take your camera on a kayak. It works great for me.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

This is a bit of a long shot, but do any of you have experience using this RainCoat product for long lenses? I'm looking for something to cover my lens/body while kayaking to protect against water spray and my current system of covering the whole thing with a towel in the bottom of my boat is both clunky and not super effective.

The product I linked looks great, except the back end where the camera body is. There's a lot of loose material there that looks like it would get in the way of the view finder and I'd love to hear from someone who's actually used it to find out if it gets as annoying as it looks.

I'm also interested to hear if there's alternative products out there that protect against water and dust.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Aside from battery life, do I need to worry about anything if I'm doing super long exposures (~2 hours) in -20 to -40 C temperatures with my 7D?

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

longview posted:

I would recommend using an AA battery adapter and filling it with Energizer Ultimate Lithium cells, they retain most of their capacity at -20C, far better than normal AAs and li-ion cells, below that you should really have some kind of heat source for the battery pack though.

An external battery pack you could put inside your jacket to heat up would be ideal, second best would be keeping some spares in your jacket to swap in and hope a single one lasts a full exposure.

You do have one advantage in that kind of temperature though; your thermal noise levels will be non-existent, so no need for a dark-frame and you can probably run at a slightly higher ISO than normal.
Thanks for the advice. I have 4 camera batteries so hopefully those last long enough to get all the shots I need for a night session, but if I run into problems I'll give those batteries you suggest a try.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Here's a bunch of questions rolled into one.

My parents, who are now quite long in years, have thousands of old family photos. Before the information is completely lost, I would like to scan these photos and create a digit album that contains the photos, descriptions of who's in there and other details, and produce something that is shareable with other people easily.

Questions:

1.) Does anyone have a scanner recommendation?
2.) Are there any scanners that come with software that allow scanning of multiple photos at once (i.e. place 6 photos on the scanner bed and have 6 separate photos imported into lightroom/photoshop)?
3.) What's the best way to associate descriptions with the photos in a way that allows for other people to see these comments?
4.) Is there anything that offers the facebook functionality of identifying specific people in each photo?

Basically what I'm trying to avoid is creating something like a smugmug gallery with descriptions of each photo that are lost if I ever move away from smugmug.

Any help/advice would be most appreciated!

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Tor posted:

My parents went though the same thing. They had a service to do the scanning for them. I had recommended https://www.scancafe.com to them (mostly because I heard their name durning a public radio fund drive). I got them one of their value packs. They sent a box to them, and they just had to pack all the things in that they wanted scanned and send it back. The original photos were returned in the same condition they went out in. The scans came back on a DVD.
I didn't realise such services existed. 2000 photos for ~$400 is probably not a bad deal considering the time that would take to scan manually. Were you happy with the quality that came back?

quote:

We still had to deal with your question #3. I figured what we could do, was have my father use Lightroom to tag all his photos and make them into collections and then save or upload these in a useful way. What we ended up doing (since I couldn't figure out what he was doing wrong in Lightroom over the phone), was just make a new set of folders on his Mac - one folder for each "event" or whatever he wanted. Hopefully the next time I am back east, I will be able to help him with with the tagging so that he can get a bit more in-depth with what he is doing.
I'm going to have to find something else for this I'm afraid. I just can't see this working for their photo collection.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

I bought filters for my first two lenses, and now I can't find those lenses. Proof that filters are worse than no filters.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Dumb question time: in this video I found about mounting photographs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAJmy9l2MUo, what is the front and back material he's mounting the picture on called? Is the front and back the same material? I tried to find something like this at Michaels yesterday and when I asked about mat board I was shown foamcore, which is obviously something much different.

I would like to hang a whole bunch of photos and the method shown in that video seems like a great way to do it since I wouldn't need to do any dry mounting, which looks like a more complex process. How do you guys hang your pictures?

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Moon Potato posted:

Mat board is definitely a thing that's different from foam core. If Michael's can't figure it out and you don't have a proper art supply store around, maybe a framing shop would be willing to sell you some. Or you could mail order some.
Thanks for the clarification. So I would use mat board for both the back of the photo as well as the border that goes around it?

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Leviathor posted:

Foamcore is what the photo attaches to. Mat board frames the photo. If you have a frame with an incredibly short rabbet depth you might consider framing against 4-ply mat board. Foamcore is very rigid stuff; mat can sag or warp, foamcore won't.

Typical foamcore, mat,and glass add up to somewhere around 3/8"--a little more, actually. All that material has to fit in the rabbet depth of the frame, with some extra space left over for retention hardware--springy metal pieces for metal frames, and, the best way I can describe it for wood frames: metal tabs fired into the wood by a special staple gun.

Basically, the materials-to-be-framed and frame should be chosen with consideration of each other. It's possible to buy thicker or thinner foamcore. It's possible to double-up on foamcore should the frame have some huge rabbet. For wood frames it's less of an issue since the back of the frame ends up covered in brown paper to improve the appearance of the finished product (it hides all the ugly hardware, minus the hanging materials). The backs of metal frames just end up looking ugly no matter what (at least I haven't found a decent solution. I suppose some clever stacking of materials would end up blocking the ugly springs, but then a neat solution to securing those materials becomes a problem... Oh well.
So if I don't want to frame the pictures, what's the best option? In that video I linked it looks like he's using two pieces of the same board, one for the back and one for the mat frame around the shot. If I use a 4-ply mat board for the back is that sturdy enough to keep a flat shape?

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

I thought we used to have a photo printing thread, but I couldn't find it. I've just run out of the Epson Ultra Premium Photo Paper Luster that I bought when I picked up my photo printer and now I'm trying to find an acceptable replacement. The cost to replace this paper seems to be about $35/50 sheets and I was hoping there was a different brand of high-quality photo paper that was similar to the Epson stuff that I could use instead. If someone knows of a good alternative, and/or a cheap place to order it I would be most appreciative.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

VelociBacon posted:

How did you walk around for 3 hours in -40C? I was stuck last weekend in the middle of nowhere and it was only -17C and I had a big ski jacket on, long johns, etc and it was brutal.
It's all about the layers. Lots and lots of layers.

Here's me from a week ago taken at -40 (-60 or so with wind chill):


I was actually pretty warm. The camera did just fine as well.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

I doubt I'll be shooting anything today, so here's my year-end stats:


Time to sell some unused lenses I think...

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

SoundMonkey posted:

That looks like the stats of someone who takes bird pictures.
Either that or a creeper in the bushes at a nude beach.

erephus posted:

Where do you set the bar on being unused?
Well if I had to start somewhere it would be my 85mm with its whopping 3 pictures last year. I loved that lens so much when I got it too.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Would you guys enter a photo contest that had this in the fine print:

quote:

Rights

By entering the contest, entrants agree to have their submitted photo and name displayed on our website and used by us for any purpose, at any time, without any fee or other form of compensation. We reserve the right to disqualify users, without notice, and for any reason. Winning images may be displayed at Various Vistek locations, prints of winning files may be displayed and sold for charity.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Just curious -- for those of you with a NAS for storage, do you happen to know how fast you are able to transfer your files from your workstation to the NAS? I have 12TB NAS that I keep all my photos on, but the transfer rate from my computer to the NAS is 11 MB/sec tops. This is really slow and makes it hard to work with my files on the NAS. I'd love to know if this is a normal write speed for a NAS or if I've got a problem in my network somewhere.

To give an example of how bad it is, I bought a backup HD yesterday so that I could copy my photos from my NAS onto it and store it somewhere out of my house, but just my photos from my recent trip are taking 12 hours to copy over alone. It would probably take me 2 weeks of copying to get my entire photo library on there.

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InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

spog posted:

As I type this, I am copying 5GB of photos to my NAS and getting 1.6MB/s (12.8mbps) and it will take 50mins.

That's due to my incredibly lovely wifi router (which I should replace). It's running in the background while I do other things. I find it fast enough for my use. I edit local copies and only transfer when they are done.

As for the copying to an external HDD directly from the NAS, you should be getting about 28MB/s via USB 2.0

Assuming you are getting that, don't be too unreasonable, 12TB is still a gently caress load of data
I think the big problem in my setup is that I don't have a local copy of the data right now so viewing and editing my files takes ages because it has to come off the NAS. I just have 2TB in RAW files so maybe I should just buy another 4TB HD and copy my collection locally and use the NAS just for backup.

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