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Hydrocodone posted:How worried should I be about this: Return it. On a long lens it would never show in your photos, but something that wide it's gonna show every time
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Jan 7, 2014 02:08
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rcman50166 posted:Can someone tell me what micro calibration is and how the hell I do it? I know it has to do with basically honing focus between a specific body and lens, but that's about it. I have a 60D and I want to try to get some more sharpness out of the 400mm I've just started to play with. No MFA on the 60D. Not nearly as necessary as the internet would like you to believe - if you have a super off lens, send it and your body to canon and they will calibrate together for you, in a professional manner which doesnt involve shooting a chart printed on letter sized paper taped to a wall in your basement from 10ft away. Edit: That sounds pretty snarky, sorry. I just think MFA is a super measurebator thing - I'm not going to quibble about focus locking on an eyelash instead of the iris of someones eye, and if it was doing something horrid like focusing an inch in front of that on the tip of their nose, I'd send it to Canon to have it done by people who know what they're doing and have proper equipment. YMMV. timrenzi574 fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 05:03
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The chart printout files are in the zip archive for the profile generator itself. There's a subfolder called "calibration charts" thats full of PDF's The instructions for it are kindof laffo though, because it tells you to do a set at MFD, and a set at 5x MFD. However, it also says the whole chart has to fit in the frame. The only non-profiled lens I own that can fit the whole chart in the frame at MFD is my 8mm fisheye. My samyang 16mm, nope. samyang 24mm t/s, nope. Arsat 80mm t/s, nope. When I did those I just did what seemed a reasonable distance vs frame filling. I basically tried to fit the chart just spilling a little over the center part of the 3x3 grid, and did other photos around the grid, one for each grid section.
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Jan 28, 2014 19:52
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life is killing me posted:Yeah I had found the charts, I just didn't know which to use. There's too many in the folder and I don't know if it matters which you use or why. If you're doing letter size paper, use the 54 point, 9x13 - don't try to tape together a big chart from smaller paper
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Jan 28, 2014 23:42
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life is killing me posted:I just realized that I shoot in .JPG because I do panoramas and usually end up taking hundreds of photos per job. Pretty sure they are JPG/RAW specific, so that might be it
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Jan 29, 2014 17:08
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Slavvy posted:Ok, I recognise some of those terms. Don't think my camera has the first one; but since asking that question I've successfully taken a decent photo by autofocusing on a dark area then shifting the camera to the position I actually want. The problem was that it ended up focusing at the wrong distance so it wasn't ideal: Don't focus and meter on the dark area and recompose, just meter off it - your camera should have an AEL (auto exposure lock) button? On Canon's its an asterisk * - not sure what you're shooting with Edit: Ah, it's that sony dong camera. There's a button marked "AE LOCK" on the side of the lens. That will lock your metering to the area you want for 5-10 seconds, then you can focus where you want and shoot.
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Feb 3, 2014 20:27
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Slavvy posted:So point at the dark area, hold down AE lock, then focus on the bikes by setting the focusing rectangle (don't know the actual term) to the widest setting so the camera auto-focuses on either side of center? If you want it to meter on the dark area, then yes. As far as focusing, if you're trying to capture a bunch in your DOF, then you'd want to set an appropriate aperture and then focus in the middle of that distance - you can figure all that out with a DOF calculator if you can find the sensor size of your camera.
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Feb 3, 2014 21:20
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ExecuDork posted:I'll be entering some photos from last summer into a photo contest at the conference I'm going to in April (European Geophysical Union, Vienna, April 27-May 2, anybody else going?). They describe the judging criteria on the contest website: Composing by "golden sections" rather than rule of thirds I would assume. take your rule of thirds lines and move them all a little closer to center so the inner areas are smaller than the outer ones.
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Feb 14, 2014 03:42
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Geektox posted:P is for program I just realized the other day that my 70d doesn't have A-dep. Shows how useful I thought that was
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Feb 21, 2014 02:53
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BrosephofArimathea posted:
I can't recall a single solitary moment when I used it on my 10D, in 10 years of use. I think I used the less worthless DEP one on my Elan once to try it out, then promptly stopped caring. I had just noticed the other day that it was gone after having the 70D for almost 6 months. Now the eye control focus from my Elan. Why Canon, Why?
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Feb 21, 2014 03:23
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:My kid's is the L26, which does have a lot of neat features for such a tiny package, but I can't find any manual controls in it. Guess it is something I should go bug the P&S thread about next time I have some cash burning a hole in my pocket. It would be fun to have something that had something close to SLR controls, but light and cheap enough that I wouldn't be afraid to do stupid things with it. Aperture priority isn't really going to make any creative difference on a tiny sensor point and shoot anyway, it kind of makes me laugh when they stick it on them as a "Feature". Unless you're focusing at near MFD, your DOF is basically "everything in the world" anyway
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Feb 21, 2014 23:18
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:Even with the lack of aperture wiggle room, other things like ISO and shutter speed would be nice. The settings are in there, but they are just hidden behind 'helpful' scene settings. Like I found that I could get a 4 second shutter speed in "Fireworks Show" mode. Shutter and ISO I agree , I just was saying that I find AV on tiny sensor cameras to be an amusing feature.
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Feb 22, 2014 01:10
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Shaocaholica posted:I love my local camera store used filter bin. Barely used B+W cir-pol? $5. B+W 62e IR/UV cut? What is that? $1. Heliopan protectors? $2. Hot mirror filter - if you have a camera converted for full spectrum (sensor hot mirror removed, so you can do uv and ir photography) a hot mirror filter on your lens lets you do visible light only photos again
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Feb 23, 2014 00:50
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Shaocaholica posted:Oh I know what a 62e is. It's just that they let me have it for a dollar because they didn't know what it was. Ahaha that's awesome.
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Feb 23, 2014 01:57
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triplexpac posted:Actually that's the other thing I was thinking... Yeah, those are RF triggers which don't depend at all on line of site which is nice. Although the optical flash triggering works pretty well as is - and if you needed to eek a little more functionality out of it you could probably rig something up like a little bit of foil in front of the sensor on the flash, to reflect the signal back at it.
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Mar 27, 2014 21:56
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Whitezombi posted:Assholes. Yeah. You could probably do it safely in one of the ziplock dry-bag type housings (dicipac) without paying a fortune, but they are not nearly the quality you would get from a proper housing as far as the IQ goes.
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Apr 8, 2014 15:50
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Mr. Despair posted:Waterproofing != dustproofing, especially with something that fine. It might work, but I sure as hell wouldn't test it out with something expensive. True that. I guess if I was really aching to try it I'd take one, wrap the crap out of the top and lens port with some kind of waterproofing hobby tape as an extra precaution, and test it with a bunch of white tissue paper inside that will easily show if color powder got in. Edit: But all in all, I'd rather stay well away with my 100-400 and not risk it at all in the first place.
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Apr 8, 2014 16:00
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xzzy posted:Actually the 100-400 might do just fine, as long as you stand a quarter mile away and fix the lens at 400mm.  If it's at a stadium you could probably get up in the highest seats and stay out of the color clouds
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Apr 8, 2014 16:51
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VelociBacon posted:Did you point out the lens in the link was a pro level water sealed lens? more bizzarely, the respondant appears to be saying you should NOT use a weather sealed lens , because that will somehow prevent color dust from accumulating inside of it.
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Apr 8, 2014 18:42
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Claw Massage posted:They gave me an assistant to handle the photo releases so whatever they want it's on them to get it done. Fine with me. They seemed convinced they need them for any picture ever taken and I don't really feel like arguing with them for no gain. It's probably not so much just legal, as 'make sure parents give explicit permission before putting pics of their kids on the internet' - if you're the community church, the last thing you want is bad blood with neighborhood parents. A legal release makes sure the parents explicitly understand and pay attention to what they are agreeing to.
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Apr 12, 2014 15:44
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Canon EOS 5 does this. You can also autofocus with your eye Really hate it when people remind me of how much I miss ECF. People care Canon, they care.
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Apr 29, 2014 04:31
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red19fire posted:Paying for photo-taking is a big part of con culture. That 3rd rate WWE star needs that $5 per picture to live! I shot at Wizard Con for a comic book publisher, and got a stern talking to for taking a picture of the murderer's row of 'celebrities' without paying each of them 5 bucks or whatever. Virgil gotta eat too man
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May 7, 2014 18:51
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VendaGoat posted:And he shills himself everywhere. Dude should have invested all those benjamins DiBiase was tossing his way. Lesson learned y'all. AFAIK , con = on private property = their way or the highway right? Pretty straightforward.
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May 7, 2014 19:47
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VendaGoat posted:Nope. Ask yourself this; can I buy a ticket? Then it's a public event. It doesn't mean it's private as in "this my land! g'on now n git!" since they are inviting you in, but since when do you not get to make your own rules on your property? This from wikipedia, not that it means much "Photography on private property that is generally open to the public (e.g., a shopping mall) is usually permitted unless explicitly prohibited by posted signs. Even if no such signs are posted, the property owner or agent can ask a person to stop photographing, and if the person refuses to do so, the owner or agent can ask the person to leave the property. In some jurisdictions, a person who refuses to leave can be arrested for criminal trespass, and many jurisdictions recognize the common-law right to use reasonable force to remove a trespasser; a person who forcibly resists a lawful removal may be liable for battery, assault, or both"
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May 7, 2014 21:03
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Wildtortilla posted:I'm not sure if this is the most appropriate thread for my question, but it's definitely the most appropriate thread I've seen I've always bought third party batteries (right now mostly optekas, which have been great) - I think the 'counterfeit' warnings are more regarding batteries passing themselves off as genuine , which would be on another level of shoddy below generic third party batteries, as they'd have to be made at least semi-clandestinely.
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May 14, 2014 04:09
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mclifford82 posted:Try out FroKnowsPhoto's YouTube channel. Jared's an interesting personality and seems to know his poo poo. He also does a pretty wide range of videos, from critiques to tutorials to gear review. His podcast is pretty cool too. You just need to get past the 75 "I SHOOT RAW" rubber bracelets. guy is like johnny depp.
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May 16, 2014 00:00
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VendaGoat posted:Hey gang, I'm going to attempt to photo a huge fireworks display and my experience with night shooting is limited and with fireworks, non-existent. Any tips? What sort of camera do you have? The remote trigger problem might be able to resolve pretty easily - I know that loads of companies make dirt cheap wireless ones for newer canons (I have one that's targus branded, got it at target for six bucks.) The situation may be the same for other brands
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May 19, 2014 19:10
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VendaGoat posted:This will work as I don't have a remote timer and the event is this Saturday and I'm not paying for express shipping. RC-3 remote, see if they have a generic one at walmart or target. And get amazon prime for the future :P
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May 19, 2014 22:12
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Dren posted:I assume you understand what the tradeoffs are for ISO, shutter, and aperture. How on earth did you get a tripod setup that high smack dab in the middle of main street during wishes without security hassling you? Awesome shot btw.
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May 20, 2014 04:29
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Dren posted:Not my shot! Those are just badass disney ND filter shots. I have the same question but I've seen people in Disney w/ tripods and I imagine the guy just staked out a spot and went for it. Tripods no problem, but usually they are "encouraging" people not to loiter in the middle of the street in prep for the parade by the time the fireworks start. That really is a cherry location to have a tripod setup.
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May 20, 2014 04:41
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lifg posted:That's the Partners Statue in the foreground, it's in a small, circular garden area. He probably wasn't standing in the middle of main street, but I don't know how many hours beforehand he had to wait to get a primo spot like that. (That entire area was designed for photos.) First photo looked (from perspective, to me anyway) to be further back with the tripod up high, which is why I thought maybe right at the end of main street in front of the ice cream place, and in the middle of the street. (We know they're not taken from the same location anyway, since number one is from FL and number 2 from CA) Edit: Just checked the exif, 13mm , so perspective messing with me. Probably taken right in the courtyard with the statue after all , either right in front of , or behind but tripod set high. I'm still impressed - I can't imagine trusting my camera to the mob that would be there at that time. Dren posted:Fireworks are after parade, iirc. He could've gotten a spot lining the street for the parade and dashed out to the place where he took the photo right after the parade ends and they let people back into the street. Dunno, looking at his stream he seems to go to Disney a lot so he probably has it all well scouted and knows exactly what to do. Only during off peak - in the summer & christmas it's parade, fireworks, parade. But that makes more sense if it was a shot gotten during off peak, if you bolted right to the spot as soon as the parade finished up and dealt with all the pushy shovy of people going home patiently, you could manage it. timrenzi574 fucked around with this message at 13:31 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 13:21
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I think what he meant to say is that they are opposite each other on a color wheel, so they are complementary primary/secondary colors to each other.
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May 20, 2014 15:09
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evil_bunnY posted:With a 10 stop screwed on you aint previewing poo poo. Live view! (Will be very colorful and hilarious looking)
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May 30, 2014 02:10
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Combat Pretzel posted:Uh, graduated ND filters. They're mostly 1-3 stops on part of the surface. Woops! For some reason I pegged that as part of the conversation about 10 stop filters (which would come along with a hilariously colorful boosted as hell live view preview)
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May 30, 2014 14:27
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RangerScum posted:10 stop filters would probably just make the live view pitch black. I can't see anything through my viewfinder when I have it on in the middle of the day in bright sunlight. My canons will boost the live view signal until it's a blurry rainbow mess to show an exposure preview. It's ugly as sin - just tested on my SL1 to see what it looked like. Viewfinder totally pitch black, live view a huge rainbow sprinkle sundae. timrenzi574 fucked around with this message at 15:15 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 15:12
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Slavvy posted:What purpose would this have even served when it was new? 640x480 isn't remotely better than film in any way, why would anyone have even bought one? Scanners existed back then. We had a bunch of these for the lab at work for taking sample photos and documenting experiments. It was way more convenient than developing film, and it didn't need to be any higher resolution than that to serve it's purpose.
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Jun 6, 2014 14:46
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ZippySLC posted:I want to buy a lens hood for the two Pentax 6x7 lenses I just bought. One has a 77mm filter thread and the other has a 67mm. I figure that I will just standardize my filters and whatnot to 77mm, so I'll need to get an adapter. People get religious on the topic of hoods. I don't feel like carrying a bunch of hard plastic hoods that take up a ton of space, so I have collapsible ones like this in my 58 & 77mm filter sizes, and that's it - it's convenient, less hassle, and works plenty well enough for me. These won't stop you from smashing your lens into stuff, but just don't smash your lens into stuff. Unless you're jogging through the forest after deer or through a warzone because your paycheck depends on it, how often do you really smash your lenses into stuff anyway.
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Jun 27, 2014 21:22
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Elliotw2 posted:Like I said, unless the lens is pretty wide or a unusual construction any cheap round lens hood should work fine. Those rubber ones have different positions so you can even adjust as needed. The one I have for my 10-22 vignettes till 14mm or so if it's screwed into the filter thread - if I take the ring out and pull the rubber over the filter thread ring instead, it doesn't even vignette at 10mm, so they're pretty adaptable.
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Jun 28, 2014 02:33
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ZippySLC posted:You should have used a harder stick and/or kicked it. I'd like to see how the lens would have handled that. In the DRTV D70/400D durability test video, Kai used the kit lenses as a hammer to pound in nails. Nikon front element survived it, Canon's did not. Edit: woops, someone just posted it.
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Jun 29, 2014 16:48
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triplexpac posted:This is probably a dumb question, but I'm still new to studio photography and trying to figure it all out. It depends on how much room you have in your studio really, and how far you can be while comfortably communicating with whoever you're shooting. Longer the better.
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Jul 10, 2014 18:42
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