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wasabimilkshake posted:I just bought an old Honeywell Pentax at the thrift store for $6.99 (the service date listed on the sticker inside the back panel is 1973). I blew 5 bucks on a new battery for the analog light meter that came with it, but the needle won't move so I'm assuming the meter is broken. Is there a way to futz the aperture settings for common light conditions? Could I just guess the level of light and set generalized shutter speed and f/stop levels to compensate? For example, 1/30 and f/11 in indoor light, 1/30 and f/5.6 in sunlight, etc? Sunny f/16 rule. On a bright day outside set the aperture at f/16 and the shutter at 1/film ISO. On overcast days open up a stop or two. If you are gonna go with out a meter this might help too http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2009 23:40 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 01:12 |
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I use lightroom. I tag as I edit. I flag rejects and color code images for further post in CS3. Red for noise reduction. Purple for skin retouch. Blue for sky retouch. Green for possible composites. I don't do much compositing on a wedding though, mostly just opening blinking eyes. This is why I never shoot TTL flash and always make several shots of each setup.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2009 07:20 |
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I always feel like an idiot when I forget to convert to 8 bit before trying to save a jpg. I blame it on Lightroom taking over 90% of my work flow.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2009 11:50 |
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dunno posted:Use some fuji instant 4x5 film in some big old hand-carried speed graphic, or better yet, an old polaroid land camera, you have a beautiful colour print in about 45 seconds (that will scan to about 15 MP of resolution on a cheap flatbed, or 28ish for 4x5) at a cost of about a dollar (two dollars for 4x5), then consider the cost of a half hour of your time spent stitching in photoshop. Ah but then you would have to carry a large camera on an engagement shoot. There is a benefit to a simplified kit when you are on the move with a couple. Large camera and tripod and careful set ups tend to bore normal people. A lot of couples get antsy in the time it takes to set up a light stand and flash.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2009 22:13 |
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Twenties Superstar posted:This is so off the mark and I'm not sure if it's because you've never done engagement shoots before or if you're just really bad at them. People get antsy when you aren't prepared adequately and it takes you a long time to switch shots. To do a good engagement shoot out of studio you have to discuss with your subjects BEFORE you do it what they want out of the shoot and what you're capable of and then BEFORE the shoot you have to go out to the site of the shoot WITH YOUR ASSISTANT and set up all of your shots, try them out, and figure out the best ways to go from shot to shot smoothly and quickly in a way that isn't going to upset your subject. If you and your assistant are genial and good to work with, even with subjects that are generally uncomfortable with having their photos taken, you can burn through a shoot in no time at all while everyone has fun and come out with tonnes of good shots. Equipment bulk is an important consideration but with proper planning it shouldn't be an issue at all. Yes, I talk to my clients and explain my working methods. It's great that you preplan all your shots with an assistant. I'm happy that you live in a fairytale land where your clients never get nervous or impatient because you and YOUR ASSISTANT are so awesome. No matter how well you prepare some people they are just not comfortable in front of a camera. Adding a 4x5 in just to grab a couple of shots needlessly complicates the shoot. I preplan all my shoots and don't take forever to set up shots. Throwing a speedlight on a stand takes about a minute and that includes test shots.
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2009 11:40 |
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Twenties Superstar posted:I wasn't lucid on this before: I'm not a commercial portrait photographer and I probably never will be one but I've acted as the assistant dozens of times in the past for a few different photogs. One of the many things I've learned, which I'm sure you couldn't care less to hear after that revelation, is that portrait photography is a service industry. It's your job as a professional to ensure your subjects comfort. There will always be variables that might cause your client to get antsy (unpreparedness, tight schedule, doesn't love other subject as much as originally thought, photographers crappy attitude) but it's your job, and this is the real skill of the craft, where the wheat is separated from the chaff in this saturated industry, to consider and deal with those problems, because, honestly, it doesn't take a lot of technical skill to be a professional portrait photographer. I'm have never used a 4x5 for a portrait session. Nor have I ever used the described digital method. I never said either method was superior just that one would take longer. I prefer to work simply. I carry one camera, three lenses and one flash on location. A 4x5 simply wouldn't work for me on location I move around too much and prefer to be spontaneous. With some subjects the time doesn't matter at all. You could take an hour to set up each shot and they don't care, because they trust you are doing a good job and they love your work. Other subjects are only there because their wife/fiance are making them no amount of reassurance or snappy banter from the photographer will make them comfortable. I'm not saying you are wrong just that your method can make things worse with certain kinds of clients. I was probably a bit to general in my original post. It is nice that you automatically assume I know nothing about customer service.
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2009 23:26 |
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My D700 handles over exposure much better than any other DSLR I have used. I underexpose low ISO shots but sometimes have to deal with over exposure in highcontrast situations while shooting in low light. I try to avoid 255 but pulling detail out of 250 and lower seems to work well.
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2009 04:36 |
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Chim posted:So I've finally run into what seems to be a "banding" problem. I see the banding. I have the same problem with the D700 under certain circumstances. High ISO, artifical light and a bit of underexposure is all it takes sometimes. I generally fix it by increasing the black level and adding grain. Noise reduction wont do a thing for banding.
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2009 20:53 |
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Chim posted:thanks for the help fellas.. i'll just try to avoid these circumstances from now on. I guess that shot was practically impossible to get anyway before the invention of these new fangled cameras, I'll just take what I can get Not really. I used to regularly shoot Tri-X at EI 3200 and 6400.
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2009 12:12 |
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Bob Socko posted:Nah, $130 for me - I use an a850, so I've gotta pick up the Elite version for $200. DXO is pretty nice, I was just seeing if Noise Ninja would give me an "almost as good and a whole lot cheaper" solution. Noise Ninja is hands down better than lightroom 2.x for noise reduction. I own the pro version that lets you work on 16 bit images and I used it for anything shot over ISO 800, until I bought a D700. Your other (free) option is the lightroom 3.0 beta. It has really good chroma noise reduction. You can't use the luminence reduction slider at all though, not a big deal for me.
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2009 22:18 |
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Phat_Albert posted:I'm wondering if my new Canon 50mm f/1.8 is miscalibrated at infinity focus. How long was your exposure? The earth moves so if it was a several second exposure that's why the stars are blurry.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2010 09:07 |
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I have spent the last year making a decided effort to grow as an artist. Like the man said it's hard on your own. I spend a lot of time looking at other peoples work and thinking about it, reading books on art and art history. I think the first step is to learn to not get pissed off when someone critiques some thing you really like and doesn't agree with you. That and to realize that just because you made something that looks pretty it doesn't mean that it has any deeper meaning or relevance.
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2010 21:20 |
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orange lime posted:So long as you don't go so deep that you forget that art doesn't need to have a deeper meaning or relevance to be good art. Some things are just made to be pretty. I just meant that don't assign deeper meanings to something pretty after the fact just to give it relevance.Some people feel that they need to justify themselves or their work in that way. Pretty things are important but if that was your intention then leave it at that. Gary Winogrand used to say that he photographed things just to see what they looked like as a photographs. It's your intentions that are important.
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2010 21:40 |
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VermiciousKnid84 posted:Alright guys, I'm planning a Sock Hop, and I'd like to have a photo booth. I'd like to have a cool, 50s-ish backdrop for the photos, and I need to do it on the cheap. I was wondering if anyone has had any ideas. Here's what I've looked into: Maybe cheapish plastic table cloth with a pattern on it? Just be careful with using flash around shiny stuff.
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# ¿ Apr 6, 2010 01:41 |
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InternetJunky posted:I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here, but for the sake of my sanity please check this larger version of the uncropped original and tell me if you can't see what I'm talking about regarding the visible red areas on the bird's head (under the eye) and on the tail. Both areas are big enough in the original that they're not being identified as purely noise by the noise reduction algorithms. Noise Ninja has a setting for coarse noise that will pull that right out. In fact that is the only reason I even open it anymore.
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2010 06:28 |
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Wooten posted:I made a dumbass mistake. I shot a wedding with two 5DIIs but one of them had a clock that was set back 12 hours (its a 24 hour clock and I'm rather slow). Is there any way to change the file data so lightroom will put them in order? All the minutes line up pretty well its just the wrong hour. Am I going to have to manually place 800 photos in order? If you select all the wrong time code photos in the library module shifting the time is an option under the capture time box.
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# ¿ May 15, 2010 02:16 |
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William T. Hornaday posted:I've got a Rebel XT and I've noticed that what I see through the viewfinder doesn't match up with the actual photo that's taken. The bottom edge lines up fine, but there's an extra 5-10% on the sides and top edges showing up that aren't visible when I'm composing the shot. Granted, all I have to do is crop off all the extra stuff, but is this normal? Yup. Generally only high end cameras have a 100% viewfinder.
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# ¿ May 18, 2010 04:34 |
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spog posted:Yeah, but pancakes are Fixed that for you.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2010 04:34 |
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FetusOvaries posted:Is there any way of locking my camera's focus to infinity? (or any manually focused point I suppose) At night, I use mostly manual focus and like to set it all the way out by focusing on some distant light, but its annoying doing that over and over because I move the ring when I walk around. There doesn't seem to be a real option to do it, but is there a trick that I can do? like setting it out that far then turning it to auto focus and doing something? I can't think of it Gaffer tape on the ring. Just stick a small piece to the lens barrel.
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2010 00:26 |
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brad industry posted:We need a gaffer tape thread. Sometimes I have dreams about gaffer tape. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3329684 Excellent idea. I firmly believe with gaffer tape, crazy glue and marine putty epoxy you can fix anything.
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2010 01:04 |
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I have a few digital shots I would like to have printed. Can some one recommend an online service they have used? I am not entering a fine art competition, but I would like something better than what my old canon inkjet can produce, and hopefully on some nicer paper. Also, it is out of ink. Mpex is pretty good.
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# ¿ Nov 1, 2010 22:48 |
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Sorry that's my bad. I got the two confused.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2010 01:24 |
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cloudchamber posted:Was trying to use my Canon this morning but it comes up with a message saying "card write protected" and stops me taking photos. There's plenty of memory space on the card, anyone know what the problem is? Is it a SD card? If so check the write protection switch.
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# ¿ Nov 7, 2010 12:40 |
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Mannequin posted:Ah gently caress, I just came back from shooting some film and realized I underexposed some shots of a white wall. I was using Auto/Aperture Priority on my FE2 and set exposure to -1/3 EV because I thought it would overexpose the white wall not underexpose. D'oh! Now it's going to be even worse. It will probably be okay as long as you were shooting negs. A third of a stop is nothing to film unless you were running slide film.
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2010 00:18 |
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The D5000 won't autofocus the f/1.4D lens. Personally I think you are best off with the D90 kit you outlined. Find the cash for a used 20mm f/2.8 and you have a nice light fast kit.
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2010 02:41 |
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keyframe posted:Are there by any chance any Seattle goons here? I am going to be driving down there this week from Vancouver to shop for a 85mm f1.8 canon lens. I would appreciate it if someone can tell me about the good camera shops there so I can find it for cheap and not get stiffed. I'm not sure you are going to find any great deals on lenses in Seattle. Glazer's is near the Space Needle and worth a shot. There is also Camera Techs in Ballard but most of their used gear is older manual focus stuff. edit: beaten on Glazer's
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# ¿ Jan 2, 2011 10:50 |
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Exposure time = 0.56 secs. There you have it a 1/2 sec shutter speed plus movement can certainly do that.
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# ¿ Jan 3, 2011 05:29 |
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spog posted:First time I read that, I thought you were proposing to make underwear out of film. Just the backing paper from the 120. Suffer for your art.
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# ¿ Jan 21, 2011 12:54 |
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They don't want you using electronic devices during take off and landing because that is when most planes crash (or suffer some sort of emergency). It's easier to tell people that it "interferes with the plane" than "I need you to pay attention to instructions in case we fall the hell out of the sky".
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2011 02:52 |
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Casull posted:I'm gonna help a friend's family take pictures of their backdrops in a couple days. Google suggests using the backdrop as an actual background, not as the subject. Anyone have any tips? What?
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2011 10:21 |
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RizieN posted:Is there a really big benefit to getting Adobe Lightroom if I already have Adobe CS5 Master Suite? The cataloging and stuff sounds cool, I like that. But I suppose if I put effort into it I could catalog well myself with folders and Adobe Bridge...but...I dunno, there's something about the idea of Lightroom I like that I can't put my finger on. It's stupidly fast compared to using Camera Raw + bridge for a ton of images. It used to take me a few days to post process a wedding and now I have them done in a few hours.
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# ¿ Mar 4, 2011 03:51 |
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That happens to me when I click on quoted Flickr links.
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2011 06:59 |
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Rated PG-34 posted:Anyone use soft-release buttons? Thinking of buying one for my X100. I use the Abrahamsson soft releases on my film cameras and I love them. Very nice to hook your finger over the shutter and squeeze the camera in low light. Just becareful taking them out when you use a cable release I have already managed to lose one by dropping it somewhere.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2011 03:20 |
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BeastOfExmoor posted:So, long story short, I'm shooting a wedding next weekend. I feel pretty set on lenses, but I am completely lacking any lighting. I do, however, have a couple old flashes that came with some film cameras I bought a while back. I've connected them to a multimeter to verify a safe trigger voltage, but is it going to be absolutely miserable to try to use them attached to my hotshoe just to do a simple ceiling bounce? I guess I should probably just play around with them around the house to see what I can do, but my wife and dog are not going to be the most willing models. Wanna borrow a flash? I have a couple of Nikon SB26s that I only use every now and then you are welcome to bum one for the weekend. They should work just fine in auto or manual mode.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2011 09:02 |
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Yeah, the SB 26 doesn't do TTL with my D700. I just use manual mode.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2011 11:16 |
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Cross_ posted:I feel the same way. Time to start a league of mutants. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_Sx-nGmMok This is the only Mutant League that matters
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2011 10:27 |
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Enigma89 posted:Facebook photography question. I export my facebook photos at 1000 on the long edge, 150 DPI and 75% quality. Facebook is gonna recompress them anyways but they look okay for what they are.
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# ¿ Dec 3, 2011 15:39 |
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CarrotFlowers posted:I just have a rebel I'll just keep the battery grip and 70-200 on it the whole time...wait no, I don't want to damage the 70-200! Or keep the film body in my bag and just swing that around, haha. I carry a keychain can of pepper spray in my camera bag. Anyone willing to rob you with a weapon is probably also willing to use it on you.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2011 06:30 |
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huhu posted:Is there a special method for batch re-sizing photographs? I have a bunch of pictures that are 4MB but I don't think they really need to be so large. Would there be a large loss in quality in reducing the size of the pictures? Anytime you recompress a JPG there is a loss in quality. You probably won't see it unless you zoom in to 100% though. 4MB isn't that large so I wouldn't bother personally.
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2012 16:25 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 01:12 |
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Oprah Haza posted:Brace yourself for lots of poo poo photographs and huge egos. Possibly from your instructor.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2012 17:19 |