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OK so I've got something really really strange happening, extra flash is making my pictures more under exposed. This is the setup... It's a 350D on full manual with a sunpak on camera flash. The flash to the right is the Vivitar 283 on M mode on an optical trigger. So if I sit on the chair and just have the on camera firing, this happens OK, so lets see what happens if I keep everything as it is and fire the Vivitar to get some fill on the right side... I really don't understand this at all, how can adding light make my pictures under exposed????
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2011 14:49 |
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2024 09:53 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:My guess is that the Vivitar is triggering off the on-camera metering preflash and that the added light is causing the camera to think there's more light from its own flash than there actually is and thus turning down the power. Naturally the Vivitar can't recycle fast enough to flash again during the actual exposure so you end up with no flash from the Vivitar and less power from the on-camera flash. Man that makes a ton of sense, any ideas on how to get round this?
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2011 15:47 |
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Cheers for the replies guys but there is no manual mode on the sunpak, looks like I may have to put my hand in my pocket and get some remote triggers....
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2011 16:39 |
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Suicide Watch posted:
On my 350D in the custom settings theres an option for "long exposure noise reduction" which gets rid of this, so, erm, I guess if you shoot canon it might be worth having a look there.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2011 14:09 |
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WildFoxMedia posted:Do any of you guys ever get into ruts and just find that you can't take anything that you would even consider "Ok"? I throw a film into an old camera and go for a wander, something about not having the instant review or infinite shots of digital make me appraise each shot more and forces me to think about what I'm shooting.
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2011 18:29 |
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Dead Alice posted:Anyone able to give me a quick run down on how to test if a Minolta Trip 35's light meter still works? Some guy is selling one real cheap but I don't know anything about the specifics and he's being unhelpful about it. Do you mean an Olympus Trip 35? If you do, cover up the whole of the lens including the selenium ring with you hand and try the shutter, if the selenium is good a red "tongue" will pop up inside the viewfinder. Take away your hand, point it at a bright light and the shutter should fire. Make sure the aperture setting ring is on A or this won't work. If you get the red tongue when you point it at something bright then the selenium has degraded and it's busto. (I have one and it's my favorite camera ever)
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2011 21:30 |
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General photography question. Why are 35mm nad medium format sensors so expensive? You would have thought by now someone would have cracked this and got us a cheap prosumer MF digital camera.
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2012 18:22 |
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the posted:for plunging cleavage, but how is a photo like this taken? just a bright flash at close distance? does it matter on the type of flash? I notice there's a slight vignetting around the edges as well. Ring flash!
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2012 15:43 |
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Mr. Funny Pants posted:I hope this is the appropriate thread to ask this. My wife bought me my first DSLR for Christmas. I got my "nifty 50", read some stuff here and elsewhere and have been able to take some nice pictures (compared to my old point and shoot at least). Making about 6 bux an hour so I'd expect there to be a lot of people there. Seems OK for something to do on a Saturday for the price, but I'd expect there to be a few "I bought DSLR now me professional $100 wedding pro" people there. Looking at the course content I'd say that about 80% of that could be picked up in here and on the vast internet, if you're OK with learning by reading thats cool, but if you're a hands on learner then it could be OK I suppose. £175 is hardly anything in photo dollars so I'd say it's not too bad to take a punt on.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2012 23:51 |
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2024 09:53 |
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Musket posted:You will get hot pixels if you go pretty long, but you can edit those out pretty easy. Ive taken 5min exposures before without worry of the sensor heat, i just had to do a bit of cleaning in post. Most modern digital SLRS have a custom function called "long exposure noise reduction" what is does is lake an equal length exposure with the shutter closed and then removes all the matching hot pixels from the actual image. Pretty loving clever.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2012 19:03 |