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Hoyt 2010 catalog is out, any one else checked it out? Highlights are Hoyt's first Carbon bow (Carbon Matrix - a crazy looking compound bow) and a new target recurve (Formula RX) which is non ILF!
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| # ? Oct 17, 2009 23:26 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 19:32 |
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Hoyt really seems to be coming out with recurve models far faster than they used to in the 90s. Which is nice and all, but between that and ditching ILF limbs I'm wondering if people will just start to get backlash. The Carbon Matrix looks like it took design cues from an assault rifle. I want one just so I can hang it someplace, and I don't even like compounds. Edit - Catalog, by the way: http://www.jvd.nl/2010HoytCatalog.pdf tirinal fucked around with this message at Oct 17, 2009 around 23:54 |
| # ? Oct 17, 2009 23:52 |
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I wouldn't say they have ditched ILF, they released another 2 ILF limbs this year (well what looks like rehashes of existing models), but I guess that could all change depending how the Formula RX goes, hopefully they will keep producing ILF to cover the market for the non hoyt risers. What I don't like is the way the stabilizers screw into the limb butt rather than into riser itself, that said, that system way be much better so who knows. It would be really nice if they made an ILF version of the new F3 limb, I really like the idea of the resin infused wood cores, I've shot a pair of KG Apex's which also use resin infused wood cores and they are niiice.
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| # ? Oct 18, 2009 00:40 |
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Looking at their new recurve riser lineup, it appears that they only have one model with the TEC bar on it. Was it really that useless? I've never shot a bow with a TEC bar, but it seems like if it didn't make a difference they wouldn't have put it on nearly all of their bows at one point. It does look like it's still there on all of their compounds, though. I am curious as to how much 'better' this new limb system turns out to be, as that is probably going to be the determining factor in whether other companies produce compatible limbs/risers. Also, the riser part of the Carbon Matrix reminds me of the bendy things on the bowflex.
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| # ? Oct 18, 2009 00:51 |
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orangeyousunny posted:Looking at their new recurve riser lineup, it appears that they only have one model with the TEC bar on it. Was it really that useless? I've never shot a bow with a TEC bar, but it seems like if it didn't make a difference they wouldn't have put it on nearly all of their bows at one point. It does look like it's still there on all of their compounds, though. Yeah, basically. Even when the Helix was the premium model, a lot of archers I know stuck with older models or bought W&W because they didn't like it.
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| # ? Oct 18, 2009 01:14 |
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I think its the GMX thats finally killed the TEC bar after 10 years. TEC risers used to be the stiffest but through whatever technology Hoyt have managed to make the GMX which has even less flex, I guess compounds still need them as they are under that much extra stress. As has been mentioned before not everyone likes TEC bars, they need a good few extra weights on the v-bars to get them to balance out nicely and not everyone likes that extra weight (not to mention the extra weight from the bar itself). I think its kind of a shame to see them go but if things are moving forwards you can't really complain, I guess people who like to shoot heavier risers will have to look elsewhere in future.
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| # ? Oct 18, 2009 03:29 |
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Im looking at picking up a KAP Winstar II riser with winstorm limbs. Anyone have any experience or thoughts on either of these? Also, any suggestions on a riser and plunger? They do not need to be top of the line equipment as I am just starting out. Im hoping the riser and limbs will last a bit and upgrade/buy the additional stuff as I progress. In the long term what are some decent sights to look into? I'm hoping that by spring I will have the money for sights and stabilizers.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2009 16:15 |
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The Winstar and its successor are most people's My First Riser (that or its Samick equivalent). It is generally perfectly functional, the only problem I had with it over two and a half years of shooting was the grip not being quite the right shape. Other people got on with it better than I did in that respect. The Winstorm limb, similarly. It will need replacing much sooner than the riser for two reasons: I) Your ideal draw weight and length are liable to change substantially over your first one to two years shooting. For this reason lots of clubs often recommend novice archers not to buy a bow until they've been shooting at least six months. II) If you are short or lightly built, the Winstorms may lack enough kick to send an arrow out to 90m/100yd (the longest ranges used in outdoor competitions) reliably. You'll be able to do it using high enough angles but it does add significantly to the difficulty. As for sights, the cheapest one worth owning is probably the Shibuya Dual-Click; whilst theoretically there are several cheaper sights that provide the same functionality, most of them are very poorly made and will vibrate themselves to death over a season or two. Most of the more expensive sights seem to be much of a muchness; don't pay extra for the carbon fibre ones though, since the sight isn't heavy enough for you to notice.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2009 16:29 |
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I'll second the Dual Click, its absolutely rock solid and has fine click adjustments for both elevation and windage, plus quite a few top Korean archers still use it (although usually with a carbon arm), my only possible criticism is that the standard sight pin you get with it is a bit rubbish/short, but that's cheaply remedied (plus not everyone has a problem with it, may just be me). The coach we had at Uni had this to say about the dual click 'You will never need another sight, you might want a different one, but you won't need one'. If the Dual Click is out your budget i'd suggest the SF Archery Carbon Sight - very good for the money. For a plunger get a Shibuya DX, its relatively cheap and very good, one of the best outside the Beiter Plunger and that costs 4 times as much as the DX.
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| # ? Oct 21, 2009 01:05 |
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I have a question regarding bow "handedness". I read that the handedness of the bow is based upon the draw arm, not the holding arm. As such, drawing with the left arm makes it a left handed bow. Now, I'm a lefty, but like most lefties, I tend to do a few things right handed. One of those things is shooting. I can't hold a rifle left handed to save my life, it feels odd as hell. I'm thinking I'd like to get into Archery and eventually hunt with a bow. I don't have a bow now, nor access to one for a month or so. I feel comfortable faking a draw with either hand, but slightly more natural drawing left handed. Would it be safe to assume I'd shoot better lefty then? I can try out my Uncle's right handed bow next month, but I don't know anyone who shoots lefty to get a feel for that. And frankly, I'm too cheap to want to just buy a lefty assuming it's what I "should" do since I'm left handed. Any ideas?
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| # ? Oct 22, 2009 14:33 |
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KillianLett posted:I have a question regarding bow "handedness". A lot of bows don't have a handedness at all - stickbows and cheap fiberglass bows are often neutral. Shoot one of those both ways and see what feels better.
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| # ? Oct 22, 2009 14:38 |
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KillianLett posted:
Which eye is your dominant one? http://www.archerynsw.com/index.php...&id=9&Itemid=61
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| # ? Oct 22, 2009 19:33 |
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Subhu Man posted:Which eye is your dominant one? This. Do not shoot against your dominant eye, but with it. I'd even suggest that if it feels wrong to do draw on the side of your dominant eye, you learn to do it anyway, because it's going to be a lot easier in the long run. I've neglected this thread for a while, but soon I'll post the method I use for aiming and shooting, which is the instinctive method. Maybe some of you other chaps could post your methods for people as well, if you feel up to it?
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| # ? Oct 22, 2009 20:31 |
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Anyone know a good online supplier? Id really like to pick up that KAP riser, but I dont want to be out $200 and get screwed. Unfortunately all the shops in and around my town cater to compound and hunting only, no recurve stuff at all. Same thing with the indoor range.
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| # ? Oct 22, 2009 23:58 |
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I mostly use Lancaster for everything if I can get away with it. You may find better prices if you shop around, but I and everyone I know have yet to deal with any extracurricular corporate nonsense with them in years of ordering. http://www.lancasterarchery.com/index.php http://www.merlinarcherycentre.co.uk/ and http://www.altservices.co.uk/ are two other good ones.
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| # ? Oct 23, 2009 00:05 |
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I also buy a lot of stuff from Lancaster Archery, and I've been very happy with them. Their prices generally seem fair, and the few times where something I've ordered is out of stock, they've given me a call, and they've given me lots of options for alternatives. I've recently found what seems to be a decent shop in Rocklin near Sacramento, so I'm hoping I can go there for stuff I can't wait to ship, but Lancaster Archery definitely gets my stamp of approval.
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| # ? Oct 23, 2009 04:26 |
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Subhu Man posted:Which eye is your dominant one? Well, that was handy as heck. Turns out I'm right eye dominant if I follow the method on that page. I'll just go with shooting right handed for everything then, thanks for the tip. 
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| # ? Oct 23, 2009 13:36 |
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Crossposting from the questions thread, might have better luck here:Capn Beeb posted:I have no idea where else to ask this
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| # ? Oct 25, 2009 19:56 |
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Ha ha ha, amazing. That's one hell of a weird request. I don't know anything more than Googling could tell me, but please tell me she intends to do this in a black leather catsuit while smoking a cigarette (I know she's old, but I assume I won't have to watch).
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| # ? Oct 25, 2009 22:05 |
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Barnett do reasonable pistol crossbows, I think. Not amazing quality, but for general plinking and poo poo, probably okay.
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| # ? Oct 25, 2009 23:33 |
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My Pops just picked up a "small handheld crossbow" at an auction this weekend. I'll ask him about it next time I chat with him. If it fits the bill, I'll let you know what it is.
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| # ? Oct 26, 2009 12:58 |
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Got paid today, on the premise that I am a responsible adult. Ordered an RX 27" shortly thereafter, predictably proving otherwise. Review+pictures to come. 
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| # ? Oct 31, 2009 08:18 |
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Exciting!! I can't wait to hear about how different (or not) that the new limb system feels. On another unrelated note.. I'm curious about plungers. What is so great about expensive plungers like the beiter plunger? I think currently my plunger is a cavalier plunger, and I've pretty much just left it like how I got the bow originally. Am I really missing out on being able to accurately adjust the spring? What does that do anyways?
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| # ? Oct 31, 2009 17:19 |
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The plunger allows for a little bit of adjustment in the 'archer's paradox'. Basically you can tune the bow to suit a particular spine-weight a wee bit better. If you've got the proper set of spines, the difference is probably negligable unless you're a really top-grade archer.
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| # ? Oct 31, 2009 18:20 |
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Alain Perdrix posted:This. Do not shoot against your dominant eye, but with it. What if your vision is better in your non-dominant eye? Not significantly better, but noticeably better...
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| # ? Oct 31, 2009 23:22 |
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infrared35 posted:What if your vision is better in your non-dominant eye? Not significantly better, but noticeably better... You should get a contact lens, or wear glasses. Shooting against your dominant eye is really tough, and it is extremely difficult to attain decent accuracy that way anyway, even if your vision is better on the non-dominant side. My vision is somewhat better in my left eye than in my right. I don't wear glasses or a contact lens, but I shoot instinctive, with both eyes open. In instinctive shooting, you look only at the target and don't attempt to aim down the arrow or using sights. If I were serious about gap shooting, or shooting with sights, I'd be inclined to wear glasses.
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| # ? Nov 1, 2009 03:34 |
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One of the best archers in the world http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Im_Dong-hyun has 20/200 vision (legally blind), he still shoots without glasses. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Im_Dong-hyun tirinal posted:Got paid today, on the premise that I am a responsible adult. Ordered an RX 27" shortly thereafter, predictably proving otherwise. Review+pictures to come. Did you get F3 or F4? fangsanalsatan fucked around with this message at Nov 1, 2009 around 16:14 |
| # ? Nov 1, 2009 16:11 |
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So I am getting slightly annoyed with chunks getting taken off of my spin wings by something on my riser. Anyone else run into this sort of problem? Here are some pics of the arrow damage and my riser: Click here for the full 1000x750 image.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 05:57 |
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Dust the bow with talcum powder and then shoot an arrow - that should show you where the clearance issue is.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 00:26 |
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You sure your not hammering the cock-feather across the button?
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 00:48 |
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RareBrit posted:You sure your not hammering the cock-feather across the button? To someone unfamiliar with esoteric archery terminology, this sounds pretty goddamn dirty 
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 00:55 |
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I like the talcum powder idea, I'll see if I can give that a shot (hurr) if I'm able to go tomorrow.RareBrit posted:You sure your not hammering the cock-feather across the button? This is one of the things I suspect could be doing the damage. The button, I mean. I'm fairly certain that the fletchings and nock are at the correct, or at least very close to correct angle relative to each other. The vane that always gets damaged is the one that is closest to pointing 'up' when the arrow is nocked. Since I suppose it could be that I've just had my rest adjusted incorrectly, when it is adjusted properly, should the shaft be touching the face of the button right in the middle?
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 03:26 |
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At the risk of I Like Turtles having to go for some 'personal time'... The shaft should slide over the button whilst having best possible contact. If the button is too soft, then fletch damage might occur. Have you paper-tested a bare shaft to check that?
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 14:22 |
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Me and my wife are looking for good basic none compound bows to try this hobby out with. We aren't looking for things like the 20 pounds boys bow kits. Any points in the right direction would be appreciated.
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| # ? Nov 7, 2009 06:13 |
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The absolute very best thing to do is to find a shop in your area which sells Archery equipment, and has staff on hand to help you with stuff like figuring out your draw length and such (so you can get the correct length arrows, for example). If you do not have any resources local to you, you can head over to lancasterarchery.com, and find a cheap beginner recurve bow. It'd be best to give them a call so they can help you with the sizing of whichever bow and arrows you decide to get. Knowing your height, and even better, wingspan, will probably be helpful before you call. At the very least you are going to need a riser, limbs, a string, and a rest to make a bow be able to shoot arrows. If you guys are mostly interested in barebow/traditional archery, you can stop there, and move on to picking out arrows, a glove/tab, and an arm guard. If you are interested in doing FITA-type shooting (which is the same style of archery done in the Olympics), like many of us do in this thread, a sight would also be a good investment. If you're fairly serious about it, I'd also consider getting a riser which accepts ILF limbs, since that will give you a lot of upward mobility in buying limbs in the future, although this would be a pricier way to go; around $160-170 for just the riser+limbs.
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| # ? Nov 7, 2009 16:22 |
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orangeyousunny posted:The absolute very best thing to do is to find a shop in your area which sells Archery equipment, and has staff on hand to help you with stuff like figuring out your draw length and such (so you can get the correct length arrows, for example). Dang you rock, thanks for the info! We used to have an archery store in Fresno, CA but I think they might be out of buisness, so that Lancaster store looks pretty nice.
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| # ? Nov 7, 2009 16:35 |
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In general, it's not really ideal to buy a bow without having shot for at least a couple of months, since your draw length (and especially weight) changes quite rapidly while you're still getting used to the hobby. I have no idea how applicable to your situation this is, but in Britain, every archery club I have ever encountered owns sets of cheap wooden bows/aluminium arrows for the purposes of letting beginners give archery a go without having to buy their own kit. If you can find a club in your area, it'd be worth asking about it.
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| # ? Nov 7, 2009 17:33 |
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That'd definitely be ideal if he can find a bow club like that, but a lot of clubs in California (and probably most of the US) are little more than loose associations of bowhunters that help each other maintain a field range. Finding a coach who gives private lessons would probably be the next best thing, and they would also probably have bows to use. I'm not sure how much that would cost, though.
orangeyousunny fucked around with this message at Nov 7, 2009 around 17:53 |
| # ? Nov 7, 2009 17:50 |
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orangeyousunny posted:That'd definitely be ideal if he can find a bow club like that, but a lot of clubs in California (and probably most of the US) are little more than loose associations of bowhunters that help each other maintain a field range. Finding a coach who gives private lessons would probably be the next best thing, and they would also probably have bows to use. I'm not sure how much that would cost, though. The bow scene is quite quiet around here. Like I said we used to have an indoor range and archery shop but it went out of business five years ago. So what I'm going to give that Lancaster shop a call see what they recommend and go from there.
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| # ? Nov 7, 2009 19:50 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 19:32 |
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Just a non-archer wandering in to point out an awesome archery sport, on the off-chance that some folks here aren't familiar with popinjay. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Popinjay_%28sport%29  Basically, you get a frame with a bunch of fake birds, hoist it way high into the air, and shoot it down with blunt arrows/bolts from a bow/crossbow. Seems like such a random sport, but sounds like fun and presumably takes up less of a planar footprint than other shooting sports. Plus reactive targets are always fun.
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| # ? Nov 8, 2009 22:29 |
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