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Sagebrush posted:Just stick on a set of these. Those would be pretty drat perfect actually. Mother fucker I just got this thing and I already wanna stick poo poo on it. I really want to go back to the stock air of as well, but I'm not going to gently caress with it that deep until I go back home with it.
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| # ? Mar 17, 2012 03:50 |
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| # ? May 24, 2013 16:37 |
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It's the battery. The plugs are definitely fouled but I threw it on a charger and it started first kick. EDIT: charged the battery, got it going. Took it for a quick ride and the weather went from sunny and 50s to hail in less than a mile. The gently caress. Got it back, and it died about 50' from my parking spot. New battery is bought, filled and currently charging. Waiting to change the plugs until I get the battery issue figured out. They're fouled, but with a charger on it starts with no issue. Just bellowed smoke for a mile or so till the plugs unfouled. iwentdoodie fucked around with this message at Mar 17, 2012 around 21:37 |
| # ? Mar 17, 2012 19:01 |
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Sorry for the triple post, but I'm fuckin happy. For now. New plugs and new battery = just took her for a fifteen mile ride, caned the hell out of it. Killed it on purpose a few times and never had to kick more than once to get her going. Also may or may not have stalled once or twice since this thing hates less than 3.5k rpm takeoffs. Now let's just hope when I get home from work in 14 hours that she starts back up. Constant loving grin the entire ride, too. Even had a group of Harley guys give me a wave.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2012 01:44 |
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Super excited for you. What does she idle at?
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| # ? Mar 18, 2012 02:32 |
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front wing flexing posted:Super excited for you. What does she idle at? 1500ish. I need to adjust the screws a bit to tweak it, but she ran like a champ. It's so fun to romp on it in first and second, feeling like you're flying then look down and realize you haven't hit the speed limit yet. God I love small two strokes. Also, it's loving loud. I'm living in a hotel for the next few months and I definitely can see it becoming an issue with assholes complaining.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2012 04:47 |
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Are RD's as horrifyingly "wooaaaAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA" as I'm imagining? I still haven't taken my MSF and I plan on getting a DRZ400 as a first bike, but I've been hugely attracted to 2-stroke street bikes for a really long time. My only big 2-stroke experience is snowmobiles, and they can certainly be fairly pleasant and then try and tear you right off the seat. What I'm essentially asking is will a RD350/250/400 kill me?
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| # ? Mar 18, 2012 05:44 |
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The RD's were wheelie machines due to where their CG was. The engine, transmission, and exhausts make them pretty tail heavy. This isn't "bad." it's just different. The "gonna kill you" part, is due to the classic yamahahahahaha chassis. aka, soft, springy, and looking to eat you. That said, the RDs don't have a lot of power. The low power kept a lot of people a live. Go for it. :-) I wouldn't worry about you. They're great bikes.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2012 08:23 |
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Nerobro posted:classic yamahahahahaha chassis I don't have a Yamaha(ahahahaha), but that's what I'm calling my Enfield's frame from now on. It is very...disco.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2012 08:47 |
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Nerobro posted:The RD's were wheelie machines due to where their CG was. The engine, transmission, and exhausts make them pretty tail heavy. This isn't "bad." it's just different. I've been riding RD's since pre-powervalve and pre-reed valve. The R5. What you postulate is very true for the R5 and most North American versions of the RD series. I currently own and ride a European '85 RD500YPVS/YZR500/TZ500 and two RD350 LCII YPVS ('82 and RZ '84) Underpowered? The European and Japanese version of the RD350LCII is 60HP unmodified. I know the North American versions (Brazilian made) mid '80s RD350R LCII are 48HK to keep you silly people alive, but even then it's stressing things calling such a light bike "underpowered". It's true that early (pre-LC and YPVS) RD/TZ/RZ bikes are somewhat soft in the spine, but it's really untrue for mid '80s RD350LCIIs and especially untrue for RD/RZ500s. I know your comments were pointed at that beautiful RD250, and for that they're somewhat justified. As a generic description of the Yamaha 2-stroke series they're kind of ignorant though.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2012 10:27 |
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Trying to track down a charging problem on a 75 CB360. Keep in mind that I am no means an electrical expert so if there are any mistakes in my methodology here please point them out. Battery is brand new and fully charged (12.8v). Voltage at the battery stays constant at around 12v regardless of rpm. I get good AC out of the stator, 18ish at idle and it jumps up over 35-40 when rpms increase. Resistance between the 3 wires is within specs. When I disconnect the regulator voltage at the battery does not increase with rpm. Tests on the rectifier are as follows (meter on 20k): Black lead to red Red lead to yellow: 11.04 Red lead to pink: 10.96 Red lead to green: no continuity Those resistances seem high, and I should get continuity on the green wire correct? Also, if this rectifier has failed, which I purchased from Oregon Cycle Parts 2 years ago and was a replacement for the original that failed, should I suspect something in the wiring is damaging the rectifier?
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| # ? Mar 18, 2012 14:09 |
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Gweenz posted:should I suspect something in the wiring is damaging the rectifier? Nope a Honda CB rectifier will fry itself without any help at all. You can get a lot of 3. party replacements though. Edit: Realized that answer wasn't really helpful. I guess you're in the US? Try something like this: http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at Mar 18, 2012 around 14:25 |
| # ? Mar 18, 2012 14:23 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Are RD's as horrifyingly "wooaaaAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA" as I'm imagining? I still haven't taken my MSF and I plan on getting a DRZ400 as a first bike, but I've been hugely attracted to 2-stroke street bikes for a really long time. It's really docile until 5500rpm or so. In first gear it'll try to rip you off the back and put the front wheel in the air. Second gear is about the same. After that you're fine but you can still feel the powerband with no issue. Edit: also thanks for all the compliments guys. Vintage bikes are the best bikes. iwentdoodie fucked around with this message at Mar 18, 2012 around 15:21 |
| # ? Mar 18, 2012 15:19 |
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I had a chance to put some time on my cl350 today, and have a few questions/observations. It was idling fine today before I rode it, but after getting back from a trip around the block it would only idle for less than a minute before shutting off. This may be related to the right side acting strange-- the idle adjustment screw does nothing, although the cylinder does work when I'm revving. White smoke out the tailpipe on that side and occasional small backfires, as well. These problems didn't show up until after I rode it around the block. Shifting is a problem. I'm not sure if I'm being retarded or if there's a legitimate problem. After killing it going into first (which I did much less of this time!), it seems to be really hard getting it back into neutral. A surefire way is to attempt a kickstart. The bike lurches forward since I'm in gear, but after that it will change to neutral happily. I also tried changing to second while riding , but it didn't take; the bike stayed in first. A friend of mine rode it back from the mechanic for me, and he said he got into fourth so I'll ask his opinion and maybe find out if I'm doing something wrong. Lastly, I checked out my electrical with a multimeter today. 12v off, 10 while starting (electric start), just above 12 idling, 12.5 revving at 4k rpm. That's bad news, right? Do I really need a working alternator (or whatever the equivalent is called) if I have a reliable kickstart? I would still be nice for when/if I kill it off the line, though.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 02:28 |
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Sir Cornelius posted:*appeal to expertise, riding exotic 2 strokes* I'm not ignorant of those models, and the chances of our OP actually buying a RZ anything is slim. For him to pick up something with a 4 cylinder would require a stroke of luck, $10,000 dollars, and the strong desire to ride a bike that shouldn't be ridden due to rarity. It would be like me trying to discuss the GS125 and XN85 as good examples of the Suzuki GS's I love so much. (An anemic single, and a turbocharged, fuel injected, 750 killer. Respectively.) I said low power, not under-powered. 50ish horsepower is the ideal range for a noob. And I'm even aware of what "a little work" will do to them. And what it does to the powerband. Without seeking specifically, our man is going to find a rd350, pre-powervalve, and if he's really lucky, it will have the stock pipes on it. If you're trying to classify anything 2 stroke with aftermarket pipes you're just silly. I'm glad you love your bikes, but what you're talking about, is not what he's talking about. Or what he's going to find. That said, I would love a RZ350, with some wildly peaky pipes. Or a GT550... Better oiling system and all that jazz. Nerobro fucked around with this message at Mar 19, 2012 around 03:41 |
| # ? Mar 19, 2012 03:32 |
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CloFan posted:White smoke out the tailpipe on that side and occasional small backfires Weird idling and backfires sounds like a carburetion issue, but white smoke sounds like burning oil. Check your valves, clean and adjust the carbs, and if those don't solve it you should be looking at the piston rings. The transmission is built in a way that you can't shift through all the gears with the bike stationary. On mine, for instance, I can go from first to neutral to second and back just fine, but to get into third or higher I have to bump it forward a little bit -- enough that the dogs align properly or something -- which is exactly what you're doing when you kick start it in gear. So, I think that's normal. If you can't get it to shift at a stoplight just roll it forwards a few inches with your feet and try again. If you keep slight pressure on the shifter as you do this you can sometimes feel it "clunk" into position. The 350's alternator is quite weak and straight from the factory won't charge the battery unless you're up at about 3500-4000 RPM. Yours does sound a little low but not terribly out of spec -- the charging systems on these are just a weak point. If the battery stays topped up during normal riding that's about all you can expect. [e] and regarding your trouble getting it into second while riding -- second is of course pushing all the way through neutral, so it's a larger push than any of the other shifts; and based on my limited experience, the 350 transmission seems to be pretty rangey anyway. Maybe you're just not really giving it a good kick? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at Mar 19, 2012 around 03:48 |
| # ? Mar 19, 2012 03:43 |
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Sagebrush posted:Weird idling and backfires sounds like a carburetion issue, but white smoke sounds like burning oil. Check your valves, clean and adjust the carbs, and if those don't solve it you should be looking at the piston rings. Thanks for the advice. I forgot to mention, when I had a mechanic look at it, he told me the choke on the left carb is broken. The choke is the valve that controls how much air is mixed, right? Would that only cause startup/warming issues, or should I worry about it further? Besides, the problems are on the right. As far as shifting goes, I've never driven a manual car or anything that has a clutch, so I'm most likely just doing things wrong. I know the theory behind it, I probably just need more practice. I did get to a parking lot to practice not killing from a stop, so I'm better at that. Uh, stupid question, but should I be loving with the clutch during a turn? I did today (pulled in going into turn, released after I straightened), but it felt wrong. Plus, I wouldn't have had easy access to power if I needed it. Not trying to turn this thread into babby's first motorbike, just unsure of best practices  Too bad about the charging system, guess I'll deal. I plan to use this bike as my daily commuter (3 minutes each way, 12 minutes/day unless I'm out playing on it [I will be]), so hopefully the short trip is enough to charge it. What does the primary main jet do? I feel like blaming it for some of my right side issues, as when I tore it down and cleaned that carb, it had a non original o-ring around it that looked like it didn't quite fit right. The aforementioned mechanic did not say anything to me about it, though. Also, I was looking online and saw this http://tinyurl.com/7lt3srv Should I avoid that? "If it's too good to be true it probably is"
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 04:11 |
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The factory got the jetting right. At that age, it was pre emissions on bikes, so your bike has the RIGHT jetting from the factory. Don't futz with it, yet. Pulling the clutch in mid corner, is how harley riders do it. .... Basicly, it's bad. When you're cornering, you should be on the throttle, or getting on the throttle. That shifts the weight of the bike back. Motorcycles handle rear wheel misbehavior much better than the front, so having the weight back, is good. It also "feels better" while riding. The choke is a "extra" carburetor. It provides enrichment at low rpms and low engine temperatures. If you're riding 3 minutes each way, having that choke work is important. You should fix it! Don't fear your carbs, they really aren't that scary. While you're at it, fix that charging system. They also, aren't that complex.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 04:34 |
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The choke is a restrictor that closes over the air intake to help temporarily pull more fuel into the engine when it's cold. The engine produces a vacuum as the pistons go down, sucking air through the carburetor and mixing it with fuel. If you block the air intake, the vacuum inside the carburetor increases, sucking proportionally more fuel out of the jets. It's like those vacuum cleaner tubes with the sliding vent on the side...put your hand over the end (choke) and the suction at the vent (fuel jets) increases. When the choke is off it has no effect. Using the clutch during a turn...no. Unless you're shifting or decelerating, don't touch it (and don't shift in a turn until you have some experience under your belt). Best practice is to keep the engine connected to the wheels as much as you can. The Honda 350 carburetor has three jets -- pilot, primary and secondary. You may also hear each of those called the slow, main and needle jets respectively. The pilot jet provides a small amount of fuel at all times, but has the greatest effect at or near idle. The primary jet provides fuel beginning at low throttle openings and has the greatest effect in the middle of the range. The secondary jet only begins to open at larger throttle settings and provides most of its effect at the high end. Jets don't "shut off", though -- at WOT all three of the jets will be providing as much fuel as they can, but the secondary will be proportionally dispensing the most. So anyway if your main jet is clogged or busted you'll probably have stumbling as you accelerate from a stop up through the midrange, but if the other two jets are okay the idle will be fine and the problems should get better at wide open throttle. Oh, and don't put a modified jet kit on. That's just asking for trouble. If you want new ones, get a factory carb rebuild kit instead. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at Mar 19, 2012 around 04:52 |
| # ? Mar 19, 2012 04:48 |
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Sagebrush posted:The choke is a restrictor that closes over the air intake to help temporarily pull more fuel into the engine when it's cold. quote:Jets don't "shut off", though -- at WOT all three of the jets will be providing as much fuel as they can, but the secondary will be proportionally dispensing the most.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 05:09 |
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Nerobro posted:Are you sure. I've only seen two "motorcycle" chokes that were actual choke plates, and not enrichment carbs. And those were on mopeds. Early brit bikes had the tickler, and so did the italian bikes. Yep, I'm sure. The Keihin 722As on his CL350 have honest-to-god choke plates. Front and back views. The  is the choke, the other one is the throttle.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 05:41 |
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I can confirm that my CB400T has an actual choke plate system (complete with many springs and adjusting nuts). My Enfield (Mikuni BS29) has an enricher jet. For further confusion, most carbs have an externally-adjustable pilot screw, to tweak the idle and some part of the early jetting with (NOT talking about the throttle stop screw, clarification for newbies). On some, it is an air screw (opening it allows more air in), whereas on others, it is a fuel screw (opening it allows more fuel in). Yay!
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 05:53 |
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Sagebrush posted:Yep, I'm sure. The Keihin 722As on his CL350 have honest-to-god choke plates. Heresy! There are some demons needing to be purged in those carburetors. Remember my complaints about honda a few pages back? you can add this to the list. :-) Geirskogul posted:I can confirm that my CB400T has an actual choke plate system (complete with many springs and adjusting nuts). My Enfield (Mikuni BS29) has an enricher jet.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 06:06 |
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Nerobro posted:I swear, I'm going to just get a rash the next time I get near a honda. Well, send it to me, then. I can handle a choke plate 
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 06:24 |
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Geirskogul posted:I can confirm that my CB400T has an actual choke plate system (complete with many springs and adjusting nuts). My Enfield (Mikuni BS29) has an enricher jet. You can usually tell the difference by which side of the slides it's on. Air screws are usually before the slide, fuel screws are generally after. Don't quote me on that though...
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 15:43 |
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I just snagged a really drat nice 78 CB550K this weekend. The owner got it late 2010, got a professional paint job done, replaced the rusty stock pipes with a clean 4-1, new rubber, etc, but sold it after getting a different bike I guess. Lucky me. My first real motorbike since I sold my Seca II in 2006. There are a few electrical gremlins, including: - headlight only works on high beam - only front right signal lights while riding, but they all blink for signaling correctly - neutral indicator out - electric start worked fine the first time, no longer works Also it's cold blooded as hell, but I think some of the hoses between the carbs and airbox need some attention. Plans include some basic cleanup, deleting rear fender, slightly lower bars, that kind of thing. I'm going to go through the wiring system as thoroughly as I can, look at fuses, make sure things aren't all screwy. Any advice on what would cause the gremlins above?
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 16:47 |
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So, weird issue. Battery is brand new and fully charged. The bike killed it once. I put it back in yesterday after charging and rode around a bit, but the bike died numerous times. I thought it was me loving up on starts, until it died when I let the RPMs drop below 1500 turning into a parking lot. Neutral light was super dim. Waited 10m or so, turned the key back on and the bike eventually restarted. All the issues at low RPM were leading me to believe it was the regulator. But then I left the battery hooked up all night while I was at work, and it kicked over on the first kick this morning. About to take it for a ride and see what issues present this time.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 17:29 |
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ShaneB posted:I just snagged a really drat nice 78 CB550K this weekend. The owner got it late 2010, got a professional paint job done, replaced the rusty stock pipes with a clean 4-1, new rubber, etc, but sold it after getting a different bike I guess. Lucky me. My first real motorbike since I sold my Seca II in 2006. Check all of your grounds, and your lowbeam is blown. You need a new headlight. Also the neutral could be the switch or teh bulb. As for the pushbutton start, check your grounds, check your grounds, check the starter solenoid connections, make sure you're in neutral, check your grounds, make sure your pushbutton in teh controls isn't blown, check your grounds... I don't think your bike has a starter protection circuit does it?
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 18:57 |
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ShaneB posted:
Sounds like you bought someone elses abandoned project. You're going to need to do a full electrical workover. Good luck. As for the carbs. Cold blooded means poorly set pilot jets. and or plugged pilots jets. I expect you're running off of main jet bleed more than the pilot circuit at idle. Can you ever turn off the choke entirely? You're going to need to clean the carbs. And while you're at it check those intake boots.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 19:20 |
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So uh I feel kind of retarded, and I really hope this is the only issue. Went for a ride, and it died on me. Then I realized the choke was on. I was still moving, so I just downshifted and popped the clutch and she roared back. The only other time it died was on a take off. It was idling fine and once I throttled and let the clutch out it just died. Started back up first kick and left at a higher RPM and all was well after that. It would be amazing if that really was my issue. Just forgetting the loving choke. And trying to take off like its a thumper.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 19:40 |
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Nerobro posted:Sounds like you bought someone elses abandoned project. You're going to need to do a full electrical workover. It's definitely a daily runner more than a project, but there are some gremlins to diagnose. It was REALLY cold blooded because of a vacuum leak - one of the hoses was like actually OFF the inlet to the carb, so tightening those back up made it start right up with the choke on. The PO would spray starting fluid into the air cleaner under the seat to start the thing, along with upping the idle screw. I was able to start it without doing these things last time I tried. I can turn the choke off after it warms up. I think that one of the carb drain bolt o-ring gaskets might be screwed, too, so I'm going to get a complete set of gaskets, pull them all, clean them up, and replace everything for good measure. Edit: reading a CB550 wiring diagram makes me miss moped electrics already...
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 19:57 |
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ShaneB posted:It's definitely a daily runner more than a project, but there are some gremlins to diagnose. It was REALLY cold blooded because of a vacuum leak - one of the hoses was like actually OFF the inlet to the carb, so tightening those back up made it start right up with the choke on. The PO would spray starting fluid into the air cleaner under the seat to start the thing, along with upping the idle screw. I was able to start it without doing these things last time I tried. I can turn the choke off after it warms up. I think that one of the carb drain bolt o-ring gaskets might be screwed, too, so I'm going to get a complete set of gaskets, pull them all, clean them up, and replace everything for good measure. Honda wiring is confusing. They don't make anything simple. The only wacky thing on suzukis was running one stator wire through the headlight switch. ... it makes sense, I mean it... Other bikes have simple electrical systems. Kawasaki, Triumph, Harley, etc...
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 20:45 |
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Nerobro posted:Honda wiring is confusing. They don't make anything simple. I should take a picture of...well, I don't really know what to call it. It's not a wiring harness, and it's not a junction box. It's Honda's secret hiding place for all the extra wires. Suffice it to say that when I pulled the headlamp out from its housing, it was a lot like this 
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 21:04 |
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I don't loving get it. Bike was fine this morning. Bike was fine this afternoon, too. Rode about 30 miles. Get about a mile from where I live, it dies again on a take off. Refuses to kick over. Push it about 1/8 mile, thankfully find a small hill and get it bump started. Blow a stop sign to make my turn, it's running great. Go to turn into the parking lot, and it dies. Still moving so I bump start it again, then ride back to my spot making sure to keep the revs above 3k. I stop, it idles for about thirty seconds, then dies. Battery is/was fine. When it does this, with the key in the middle position, I turn the switch to run and then the mill switch to on. As soon as it flips to on, the neutral light dims almost to the point where I can't see it. Regulator or something else? EDIT: and to make this even more odd, just went out and tried it and it started on the second loving kick. The gently caress is with this thing. iwentdoodie fucked around with this message at Mar 19, 2012 around 22:13 |
| # ? Mar 19, 2012 21:27 |
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You need a multimeter. Its probably a problem with the charging system. You need to check the voltage to confirm. You can't just charge it and ride it around, because it'll run fine until the battery runs down.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2012 23:29 |
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Z3n posted:You need a multimeter. Its probably a problem with the charging system. You need to check the voltage to confirm. You can't just charge it and ride it around, because it'll run fine until the battery runs down. Have one Put it on the battery and it dies immediately when idling and I have no help around generally.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 00:08 |
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iwentdoodie posted:Have one It's almost certainly the charging system not putting any charge of any kind on the battery. It sounds like what happens when you forget to connect a generator wire: works fine, starts working less fine, doesn't work at all. As the battery discharges, you don't get enough juice to do anything. Start the bike up with a fresh battery. Let the bike warm up and sit at a comfortable idle, say 2500. Disconnect the battery. If the bike dies, then your charging system does not exist, and you're killing batteries. If the bike chucks then stalls, your charging system is just weak. If the bike runs just fine, then you've got bad wiring between the charging system and the battery, possibly one of the new-fangled blocking diodes.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 00:26 |
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:It's almost certainly the charging system not putting any charge of any kind on the battery. It sounds like what happens when you forget to connect a generator wire: works fine, starts working less fine, doesn't work at all. As the battery discharges, you don't get enough juice to do anything. I'll try that in the morning if I can get someone to help then. No way to make it hold 2500 rpm by myself. So I'm guessing it's either regular or rotor (meaning most likely brushes).
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 00:39 |
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iwentdoodie posted:I don't loving get it. regulator or cdi/equivalent Could be a short somewhere too
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 01:51 |
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iwentdoodie posted:Have one There's a pretty simple test. Put the battery on the charger. Does the battery show good voltage when fully charged? (shouldn't be lower than 12.6v or so with no load). If it doesn't, replace the battery. Now that you've confirmed the battery is good, fire the bike up. Does it idle? If so, what is the battery voltage? I can just about promise you you will see the voltage go down and not up when you start the bike, because your charging system is screwed. Now, rev it, and if the voltage does anything but spike up to around 14v when you hold it at 3k RPM or 1/3rd of total RPM (whatever is higher), you have a problem with the charging system. If it does spike up to consistent ~14v, your charging system is good, so your battery is either dying or has failed internally, or your problem is elsewhere. From there, examine the wiring from the stator to the R/R to the battery and see if any of it is torched. If it is, repair it and test again. If it's not, switch to AC voltage, and unplug that stator (usually 3 yellow wires coming off an engine cover), start the bike, rev it, and compare the 3 windings of the stator to each other, (1->2, 2->3, 1->3). You should see consistent similar voltages on them, usually in the 40-60 range, depending on bike. If you don't, there's a problem with the stator. If you do, there's a problem with the R/R or the wiring.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 02:09 |
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| # ? May 24, 2013 16:37 |
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Z3n posted:There's a pretty simple test. Awesome. I will do as much of this in the morning as I can. May end up with the bike in my room to trace wiring, it's loving cold up here in Washington.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 02:13 |
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