Sagebrush posted:

That's about where the needle jets start to open, so I would make sure those are operating properly. Holes in the diaphragms, damage to the needle or the jet body itself, gunk on the slides that would keep them from opening smoothly, etc.

Also, kick starting is wonderful. It's so much more visceral than pressing a little button.

Captain Cantaloupe posted:

Hmm when I took apart the carbs this weekend the needle jets, diaphragms, etc all looked fine.

Now I haven't had a chance to try tamir lenk's suggestion of recreating the stutter, but I did check my intake manifolds: they both leak air pretty bad, so I've ordered a couple new ones. I'm not sure if this will fix this problem but itll surely make the bike run better, right? I've just gotta wait till the drat things get here.

ShaneB posted:

Got the bike back together tonight, and it starts right up. Feels smoother than before, even. I'm so happy. No more loving starter fluid bullshit.

BlackLaser posted:

Yerok posted:

Haha sorry man, too many beers and working on the RD400 distracted me. I guess I clicked submit without attaching the link.

https://www.mikesxs.net/product/08-6008.html

Z3n posted:

Idle it higher until it's warm.

n8r posted:

Piston slap?

Viper_3000 posted:

Did this this morning before my commute. Any reason I shouldn't use the idle adjustment screw to do this for me while I gear up, besides having to adjust my idle at the first few stoplights?

ShaneB posted:

Since we both have a CB550 I feel this should be accurate: Your bike should automatically be idling higher with the choke pulled, as there is a little protrusion on the choke rocker mechanism that, when the choke is pulled fully, presses against an arm that is attached to the throttle rocker mechanism. This bumps the throttle a bit to open the slides a tiny amount.

Viper_3000 posted:

Did this this morning before my commute. Any reason I shouldn't use the idle adjustment screw to do this for me while I gear up, besides having to adjust my idle at the first few stoplights?


I think that might actually be the issue. It definitely fits.

Viper_3000 posted:

Hmmmm, I didn't notice it idling higher with the choke pulled halfway. I'll check into that when I redo the carbs.

Z3n posted:

No, not a problem. The choke can be hit or miss on the older bikes with allowing it to idle higher.

ShaneB posted:

Yeah it's something that can be adjusted, so it can not function correctly if it's adjusted wrong or come out of adjustment over time. It's also only really doing something at full, or near-full, choke.

Viper_3000 posted:

About to go spend the rest of my afternoon replacing the regulator/rectifier so I don't have to keep using a battery tender. Hopefully it's as simple as it looks.

ShaneB posted:

Yeah, I'm ordering one of those Oregon cycle things ASAP. The stock regulator/rectifier is terrible...

Viper_3000 posted:

Speaking of that:

New Parts!!!



Jesus H Christ look at that old thing. Complete with dead/dried spiders and nest.



Yeahhhh....That looks better I think.



Was losing daylight so I didn't take many pictures, here's the regulator installed:



Overall, my feelings on the stock parts.




I'm pretty happy with the Oregon Cycles parts. They do in fact bolt right up, however the rectifier got pretty hot when I was setting the voltage, not sure if that's intended or not. I also can't get the regulator to put out more than 13.8v at 2k rpm, but I'm fine with that.

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

shouldn't it be a 12v regulator?

also, it's not your reg that's putting out the power. it's your rotor/magneto-alternator. You can't expect to fully charge your system at idle. That's why you have a battery.

Viper_3000 posted:

According to everything I've read 14v is the correct regulator. Anything from 13v-14v at idle indicates charging, and you don't want to exceed 14.5v. (Again, from what I've read online)

Viper_3000 posted:

According to everything I've read 14v is the correct regulator. Anything from 13v-14v at idle indicates charging, and you don't want to exceed 14.5v. (Again, from what I've read online)

I'm fine with 13.8 at idle, I was just going by his instructions which were to set it to 14v at 2k. (Bright side, it definitely won't peak at over 14.5 and risk frying my battery from my testing at different RPMs)

Here's his site, his stuff comes highly recommended from most of the CB forums around.

Viper_3000 posted:

n8r" post="404400969 posted:

Piston slap?

I think that might actually be the issue. It definitely fits.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

These numbers are about right for all modern autos/bikes. 12v systems don't actually operate at 12v, it's more like 13-14 ideally. Old bikes will often not charge at idle, but modern ones should.

Sir Cornelius posted:

Same with most off-road vehicles. There's no difference between "old" and "new" bikes.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

On average, yes there is. Older mopeds are generally of a different design, with a/c lighting, magneto ignition, etc., so they don't really fit in with street motorcycles.

Sir Cornelius posted:

I provided you examples of street motorcycles that doesn't follow your rule.

ShaneB posted:

600+ mile round trip done over 30 hours on a windscreen-less CB550.... I'm kind of exhausted but so happy with the bike right now. Started and ran like a dream. Took it to 100 on the speedo a few times just to say I did it.

iwentdoodie posted:

Awesome!

ShaneB posted:

600+ mile round trip done over 30 hours on a windscreen-less CB550.... I'm kind of exhausted but so happy with the bike right now. Started and ran like a dream. Took it to 100 on the speedo a few times just to say I did it.

I felt like hot poo poo for doing 220 today on my RD. I guarantee you were more comfortable.

ShaneB posted:

Oh yeah I should probably post some kind of queer instagram shot of my bike for good measure. Note, the sun was actually making things these colors:

BlackLaser posted:

What exhaust is that?

ShaneB posted:

I honestly don't know, as it came on the bike from the PO. The stock quad pipes were rusted out. It LOOKS sort of like a Mac 4-1 but I'm not 100% sure. It's not loud and has a good tone, especially at about 5000 rpm on where it smooths out nicely.

BlackLaser posted:

I think it is a MAC. Looks good. For some reason the muffler always looks to big or too much like a megaphone in pictures.

CloFan posted:

Couple questions: the primary main jet (#70) doesn't sit firmly in its tube.. The O ring prohibits it. The float clip thing hold it in place, though. is that normal or a problem?

CloFan posted:

The new float needle spring is strong enough that when holding the carb upside down the floats don't compress the nipple. Searching around the internet, that is a good thing, the reason I mention it is both previous pins compressed in that circumstance.

CloFan posted:

Should the emulsion tube (the tube secondary jet #105 sits on) be locked in place? Both old tubes were, and both new tubes will slide out with no jet installed. Since this tube is manipulated by the slide needle, I figured it would need to be stationery. I didn't want to pound it in for fear of breaking anything.

CloFan posted:

Finally, loving floats. The distance from the float touching the top of the carb body is 25mm. So, setting the carb to 26mm without having the pin compressed seems wrong, since there is barely any difference between that and the floats all the way up. I'm thinking the metal where the actual float is connected to the rod may be bent. If I'm being retarded and this is normal, please inform me. If this is clear as mud and I need to draw out what I'm saying, I will, but I'm posting from my phone right now so hopefully that description will do.

Sagebrush posted:

The float clip thing is supposed to push on the jet and hold it in place, so that's not a problem. What do you mean by "the O-ring prohibits it", though? Is it too tight, or too loose?

quote:

No, because as above, the little clip thingy pushes up on the whole jet and emulsion tube assembly and holds it in place. Normally the tubes just press-fit into place and you should be able to pop them back out with your finger by reaching into the venturi. If the whole assembly literally falls out just from turning the carburetor upright, probably your O-rings are shot.

quote:

This is what it should look like when you set the float height, assuming you have the old-style brass floats:



The angle shown there is the maximum angle that you can tilt the carb without compressing the pins at all.

CloFan posted:

I know how I'm supposed to set the floats, but that's where the problem is. Pretend in your picture that the floats are pushed all the away against the carb body. At that point, the pink line is 25mm, meaning I'd need to set the flange way up in order to not compress the pin at all for my 26mm. It just doesn't seem right but I can't figure out why that is, hence my speculating on other bent parts.

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

You sure they're in the right way?

CloFan posted:

The O-ring is too big and will always eject the jet instead of sitting firmly.


The emulsion tube is loose, but with the jet in place it does not fall out. I'm not sure how much play it has with the jet in, or if it should have any.


I know how I'm supposed to set the floats, but that's where the problem is. Pretend in your picture that the floats are pushed all the away against the carb body. At that point, the pink line is 25mm, meaning I'd need to set the flange way up in order to not compress the pin at all for my 26mm. It just doesn't seem right but I can't figure out why that is, hence my speculating on other bent parts.

CloFan posted:

Yep, the way the float arm is set up on this carb you can't really get it wrong or they won't be able to float very high at all.

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

Don't worry about how much the pin compresses. the needle is going to move up and down before the pin compresses anyway, the pin does nothing but absorb some of the shock from floats bouncing around to reduce float seat wear.

Tilt the carb body @ 45º (so the float tang is just barely resting on the needle), and set the float height to 26mm by adjusting that middle tang on the floats.

Tamir Lenk posted:

This.

The needle spring is just a shock absorber for the float. The spring does not really add pressure to the needle to close it. So don't try to account for spring pressure when setting float heights.

You can tilt the carb to remove the spring from the equation, as Gnarly suggests. I just set the floats with the carbs upside down, regardless of possible variation across the needle springs. Gnarly's way is probably the most accurate, but my clumsy rear end would need 4 hands and 2 sets of eyes to maintain the tilt and take the measurement.