Synonamess Botch posted:

Bolt #22 attached the blinker assembly onto part #7. Part #7, which you can see is a hex nut on the inside, screws onto a bolt which sticks out of the fork tubes (this part is not on that diagram). This bolt is spinning freely inside the fork tube. I can take another picture if it's still unclear.

Nerobro posted:

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm

$20-30 per set of bars.

Nerobro posted:

Neither. Clipons and clubmans are a quick way to hate the bike. You want Superbike, or euro bars. they're about 6" higher than clubmans or clipons will sit. which is still 4-6" lower than the stock bars.

ari.gato posted:

Depends on the look you're going for the bike honestly. I have clubmans on my cafe racer and I love them. Definitely strengthens your core muscles, but if you're sitting on the bike properly, it's not a huge deal. But to each their own.

ari.gato posted:

Depends on the look you're going for the bike honestly. I have clubmans on my cafe racer and I love them. Definitely strengthens your core muscles, but if you're sitting on the bike properly, it's not a huge deal. But to each their own.

Nerobro posted:

I thought the 1125cr had clipons.

SaNChEzZ posted:

Am I going about this right or am I crazy?

Marv Hushman posted:

Yes to both. And this is lengthy, because I feel partially responsible (I recommended the exact model to someone else on another thread).

Sending good karma your way in hopes that a small investment in a decent battery will cure the electrical issue. As the fellow owner of a kickerless Honda, charging problems are now something I'm familiar with in the biblical sense. It is easily the most common problem reported on forums for DOHC Hondas of that era--and, more than likely, the CX/GL line as well. It's now my first line of questioning to a seller--bald tires I can deal with.

Many riders in a similar situation have opted for batteries from Big Crank--I don't know what their value proposition is, but they get raves. Example:

http://www.vjmog.com/ftopict-677.html

You're contemplating all the right things, this included. But as has been stated elsewhere, for this particular model you probably want to ensure that you have a functional charging system first, as replacement can mean pulling the motor. That's a pretty big commitment, so if the carbs that are in there got you home, I'd probably ignore them for the time being. It's wasted effort if you hit a dead end on electrical and give up.

Take the existing batt to an Autozone or Batteries Plus or something and have them do a free health check. If it's a lost cause, get the replacement of your choice. If it holds, you're good--move on to the fuel system, etc. If not, there are a a handful of good diagnostic flowcharts out there for pinpointing the trouble. I'll point you there if it becomes necessary.

8ender posted:

Friend of mine has drag bars on his XS400 and they're not bad for comfort. You do feel like a bit of a tool after a while with your feet in standard foot peg position and your arms all forward. Rearsets might have made it better.

AnnoyBot posted:

I had drag bars on my XJ650 Seca for years, and I recently swapped on a set of clubmans. I definitely like the clubmans better, though if I ever really get the loving carbs sorted out such that it's fully usable I'll probably put superbike or daytona bars on.

I think drag bars are the most brutal because they have [almost] no bend to accommodate your wrists at all. The clubmans, despite being low and forward, do have some rake and don't hurt me after 20 minutes.

SaNChEzZ posted:

BOOM! Fired right up.

Marv Hushman posted:

Awright--a good boom.

Hope you don't need them, but I used a combination of the Electrex flowchart and the Mike Nixon guide(s). They're not model/engine specific to the CX, but they contain enough info to work with. Someone's probably youtubed the process by now as well. Buy a multimeter if you don't have one (rubber case and big display if possible), and some contact cleaner (CRC @ the Zone, or DeoxIT if you're a purist and home audio snob and can spend $20 an ounce).

http://www.4strokes.com/tech/fault_find.pdf

http://home.earthlink.net/~trinomial/DOHCcharge.html

JointHorse posted:

• The right side carb's oil line coming from the pump has snapped at some point in time, and the PO fixed this by jamming a piece of bigger tube on top, and it seems to leak ever so slightly. So little that it shouldn't affect anything. But I'm going to fix this anyway the next time I work on the bike. The repair looks ugly.
  
• The mufflers are missing their muffling bits. There's supposed to be a length of pipe filled with holes, and wrapped in some sound insulating stuff, which is then inserted into the muffler. But looking at the service manual it just seems to be a length of pipe which is open at both ends, so it shouldn't affect backpressure or anything like that.
  

Phat_Albert posted:

Also, all the bits should be there in the mufflers if you want it to run right, otherwise you'll need to rejet it. The RD motors are notoriously picky about jetting.

Crayvex posted:

SaNChEzZ posted:

One more update:

Charging system works!!

I;m picking up an 81 CX500 with a seized motor for parts next weekend. Wouldn't hurt to have a couple carbs and misc. bits lying around in case I need them, right?

Marv Hushman posted:

Great news. If you've got the space, go for it. Depending on condition/price and what's left to cannibalize, it may be the more economical route. And it doesn't hurt to have an in-house reference sitting there when you're wondering how Tab A connects to Slot B. Who knows, you may have inherited another runner--"seized" is a relative term, and the PO may not have expended much effort to get it unstuck.

SaNChEzZ posted:

Well he explained the situation to me. Oil was leaking out of the front seal somewhere, he drained it, replaced the seal, got busy forgot to put oil in it, started it X months later, it ran for about 30 seconds then died. He thinks the 'main bearing' is toast.

Other than that, he said he's owned it about 20 years and it's never been down so I assume the cosmetics are in pretty good shape albeit a bit sun-faded.

We'll see when I get it though.

Edit: Grammar

Blaster of Justice posted:

I would replace those points AND the capacitors right away.

cheesebot posted:

We need more running vintage bikes in this thread.

cheesebot posted:

We need more running vintage bikes in this thread.