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Amazingly, with all my "old" bikes, I really don't own much earlier than 1980. I've had a 1979 and still have a 1977 GS550. Neither ran. They were parts bikes ot make my 1980 GS550 happy again. I have a 1978 Peugeot 103. And a 1979 GS425. I'll get some pictures up later.
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Oct 26, 2009 16:07
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I fear for your cam chain guide already. The XS400 I had still leaves a nasty nasty taste in my mouth.
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Mar 8, 2010 01:03
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One motor had 8,000 miles, the other with 5,000 miles. both dropped the cam chain guide and seized the crank against the lower crankcase half. But tha'ts not a SECA, so I may be feeding you bunk information. I just won't touch anything that says XS400
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Mar 8, 2010 20:34
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one look at this thread... and I am reminded my 1980 GS5/650 needs a paint job. and a new wiring harness. drat you gnomad, drat you. There are FOUR lights.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:27
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It's not quite pre 80, but it's 1977 lawnmower tech all the way... My GS650 would do the "very lean" idle climb. The sign of intake leaks all the way. But there were none. The bike wasn't running on all cylinders. Hooking up vacuum guages showed that at idle one cylinder was running full throttle, one was at a few inches of vacuum, the other two were dead shut. Not good... I also discovered that the pilot screws were set at random points between 1.5 and 3.5 turns out. Keep in mind that the "right" setting for a GS is around 1.5 turns out. I also discovered my vacuum guages don't agree with each other. I set myself up a water vacuum guage. They're simple rigs that use plastic tubing hung over a rafter. As a side benifit, the mass of the water makes the readings pretty stable, and because water is fairly light, small vacuum changes make for big changes in collumn height. The end result, is that all my cylinders are synced within 4" of water (from highest to lowest) which is about 1" of mercury, and I'm idling at 4' of water. I'm satisfied. And I don't have the funky idle climb, and it's running on all cylinders. Yey. I'm riding it to work tomorrow.
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Mar 23, 2010 07:49
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Gnomad posted:Does oil get moldy? did someone use RTV on the bike? OH god do I hate RTV.... and that's what it comes out like.
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Apr 23, 2010 00:05
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There's confusion here between plunger, roundslide, flatslide, and cv style carbs. CV style carbs have a vacuum actuated slide. That slide can by cylindrical, flat, or some hybrid. Flat slides have tradtionally had problems at small throttle openings, and during transitions because they don't have a large flat area to develop a smooth flow under or a cutaway. Many, many bikes have the hybrid slides with a small round plunger with wings on it, this provides most of the benifits of a flatslide carb, without the transition problems. I"ll just call them VM carbs, where your throttle cable is attached directly to the slide. Those carbs provide the most direct control between your desire, and what the engine does. This can be both a benifit an a problem. Flatslides work well on small displacement motors. Hell my RM and WR both have flatslides. And if you want to get technical, so do a lot of mopeds. :-) roundslides are just a hell of a lot more forgiving, and give you less top end.
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Apr 27, 2010 02:20
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Neither. Clipons and clubmans are a quick way to hate the bike. You want Superbike, or euro bars. they're about 6" higher than clubmans or clipons will sit. which is still 4-6" lower than the stock bars.
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Jul 13, 2010 21:53
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http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm $20-30 per set of bars.
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Jul 13, 2010 22:25
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yes. The world decided 7/8 is the proper bar diameter. Only "some" dirtbikes, and harley ignore this.
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Jul 13, 2010 22:56
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ari.gato posted:Depends on the look you're going for the bike honestly. I have clubmans on my cafe racer and I love them. Definitely strengthens your core muscles, but if you're sitting on the bike properly, it's not a huge deal. But to each their own. What bike do you have? It also depends greatly on triple height, tank length, your own body size, and seat height. ;-) For instance, a buddy could run drag bars on his 550 without any trouble. I... can't. he was 6'3", I'm 10" short of that. Utility always trumps looks. It's a damned UJM. Leave it setup so you can still use it univerally.
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Jul 14, 2010 09:05
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I thought the 1125cr had clipons.
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Jul 14, 2010 09:13
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Condensors go bad as a matter of course. "time" kills them. So they're bad. The points... are probally bad. at minimum they need cleaning.
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Jul 20, 2010 08:49
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The thing is designed to run on (if i recall correctly) cheap straight 30wt oil in the injection pump. If you put anything designed for 2 strokes into it, it will bow down and kiss your feet. You will need to get in the carbs. They're simple. Super simple. run the specified plugs. and it will treat you well.
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Jul 27, 2010 15:21
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clinto posted:I got some new NGKB8ES plugs and put them in... didn't seem to make any difference, the old ones didn't look too bad. My cousin got it to idle by adjusting the "idol knob" or some such deal that was located right behind the carburetors which basically holds the throttle a little higher i think. I still think the carbs need cleaned out, the thing seems to be running rich even though the spark plugs didn't look too bad. Lots of build up in the exhaust. Next step: new air filters. found some on ebay that will supposedly fit for 10 bucks a pop: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360283548368&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_3701wt_939 Anybody care to comment on the quality of these? Thanks for the help. Use the stock air filter. Suzuki kinda knows what they're doing about this sort of thing. Replacement stock air filters are still available. You can gently caress around with the carbs for years, and never get them right. JUST CLEAN THEM. If you fear them, they own you, and you will have a bike that never runs right, and very well may hole a piston. Carbs ARE NOT HARD to work with. Just to make your cuz feel bad. If a bike won't start, adjusting the IDLE knob will make the problem worse. As you open the throttle, less fuel flows through the pilot circuit, making the mixture leaner, and the bike less likely to run. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3271098 Learn something. :-) Your carbs are most simliar to the VM22's I show being cleaned.
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Jul 28, 2010 16:09
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... I'd have started with the thermostat...
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Sep 10, 2010 18:04
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There are a few reasons that there's a pair of vice grips in my tankbag... And this is one of about ten.
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Sep 14, 2010 15:17
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:look around. they can be had. This is the hard way to do it. You can hide a SLA under the swingarm. Use the bottom of the seatpan to do your electrics on. And buying the right batteries is cheap. Like $40 cheap. But before that, Tamir needs to have his right arm cut off. He mangled a good GS750. There's thousands of backetcases out there ideal for this build, but tearing down a good bike is a damned shame.
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Aug 30, 2011 22:00
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AncientTV posted:edit: When I say we cleaned the carbs thoroughly, I'm ignoring the passages under the rubber plugs. If they're taken out, they will fall apart. They're a goopy mess. Then you didn't clean the most important passages. and do not buy "carb kits" The parts in them are notoriously wrong. Spend the $30 and buy real jets, you can usually re-use float bowl gaskets.
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Oct 16, 2011 17:51
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AncientTV posted:The jets, slides, needle, vacuum diaphragm, gaskets, etc. are still in good shape, it's just those two plugs kicking the bucket for whatever reason. I realize that I do need to clean the passages out, but I thought they were there to keep the idle circuit from affecting the main circuit, why would they being dirty inhibit the bike from idling properly? The slow jets affect (I hate that term, as it's not proper) They're pilot jets. And the pilot circuit. the pilot circuit affects ALL ranges of fueling. It's fuel is almost all the fuel that's used at idle. As the slide opens, it uncovers the main jet, and it starts doing it's magic. The main jet is adjusted by the slide needle. The pilot jet NEVER stops passing fuel. On bikes with small pistons, like my GS550, the pilot screw has fairly strong effects all the way to 3/4 slide opening. With bigger motors, the effects are smaller. But the pilot circuits become more vital, as you spend more time in the pilot, and slide cutout range. If the pilot circuit is dirty, your bike will be very lean any time the throttle is mostly closed. The plugs are there to ensure the pilot circuit gets it's fuel from through the main jet, and deep down in the bowl. ... the bike will run, and fairly well, without it. But you can run into some issues when it's rough, or when your'e heavily decelerating with the throttle shut. By drawing through the main jet, you avoid sloshing issues.
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Oct 17, 2011 19:46
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Yerok posted:The head came off the GS550 engine today, and the cylinders look like they're in really good shape. There's a bit of carbon on the pistons and the valves, but I think some Seafoam will take care of it after the engine's running nicely. It's really starting to look like this was a rebuilt engine that was swapped in a while before I picked up the Suzuki. Welcome to the club though. GS's are a lot of fun. Mach 30 posted:This is my 1978 Suzuki GS1000. It has completely rebuilt and bored over to 1100. New paint, pipes, etc. I love it!
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Feb 6, 2012 19:05
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Tamir Lenk posted:Sup GS buddies? 1978 GS 750 here. You've got the description right. And GS rides are almost always safe. And if you do have a problem they WILL help you. (I've tested this...) So... the depths of my GS addiction? This is just what's in the garage right now. 1983 GS550ES - K&N, rejetted, GSXR R/R, hand wound stator.  1982 GS650E - Stock all over.  1979 GS425E - Also stock all over, including slightly bent handlebars.  1980 GS550E - GSXR r/r. Kinda in mothballs right now. I have the side covers.  1980 GS5/650E - I don't have a convenient, recent, picture of it. But that frame, with a 650cc top end, no airbox, and before I cut the wiring harness would do 130+mph.  Uh, there's other bikes too. I've owned a 1986 GS550ES (sold, to some poor soul), a 1978 GS550E (owned and ridden by a high school friend), Another 1979 Gs425 (Owned by a goon now), a 1977 GS400 (in baskets..), Another 1980 GS550 (sold, rusty POS), a 1982 GS450L (Sold, for lots of money) and.... I think that's it. I have three other non GS motorcycles. I just might bleed suzuki. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Feb 8, 2012 |
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Feb 8, 2012 22:23
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Z3n posted:I might be buying a gs550 for a friend's first bike soon.
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Feb 9, 2012 05:47
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BlackLaser posted:gently caress the air box, it's impossible to install. I tried for two hours. I'll get it to run decent on pods eventually. Other's seem to do it. I'm not looking for perfect factory idle, just no bucking and bogging. Here's the problem: Pods look like a brick wall. You can consider a working volume the whole space between the smallest opening, and the next time that the volume gets smaller than that opening. The factory airbox has liters of air between the air filter, and the throttle body. Carbs really, really hate any sort of change in density (which is changes in vacuum..) and velocity and this leads to weird and wooly jetting. Take your lessons from race bikes. They run without air filters, or they run with an airbox. The only exception to this are dirt trackers, who run an air filter whose internal volume, and filter area is measured in cubic feet. And they all run with good carburator supports! Bucephalus posted:The theory is that on inline-4, the airflow to the inner verses outer carbs is so different that an airbox is needed to smooth the flow and equalize it amongst all 4 carbs. It's not really a problem on direct-lift carbs, requires a bit of tuning on CV carbs, and is drat near impossible on Keihin VB carbs. No. :-) Though the GS550 and GS650 both have a lovely enough airbox that they needed restrictions on the center two carbs to match the airflow. This is where a lot of the horsepower on my GS5/650 came from. Good inline 4 airboxes (see the GS1100 and GSX750) don't need restrictors, and make lots of power. But they do benefit from higher flow air filters!
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Mar 5, 2012 08:47
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I forgot to mention that. With pods, crosswinds and rain can ruin your day. Crosswinds make for strange carburation, and rain.. well when you soak a pod filter with water they dont' flow much air.
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Mar 5, 2012 21:14
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Man what's with all these hondas. They are the HARD bikes to work on. Lets see some kawasakis, suzukis, bmws, anything else. :-)
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Mar 6, 2012 03:04
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Olde Weird Tip posted:There is definitely a Honda tax on older Hondas, especially older CB's. CB's from the 80's (except for the CBX) are generally exempt from the Honda tax and can be had for cheap since that was the dark time, where every manufacturer thought every bike that wasnt a sportbike had to be a faux-chopper Forget the tax. They're three bitches and a half to work on. A clutch cable with three adjustment points. CArb mounts that require three asians on a trapeze to get to the mounting screws on. Body pieces that are both fragile, structural, and critical to support all of the street legal equipment. Choices like mounting the fuse box on top of the triple tree. Doing a one year move where the handlebars mount vertically in the triple tree instead of bar clamps? Why would you use the "two thread pitches" petcock in the 1980's when everyone else has gone to the two screws and a gasket method? Why would you use a cylinder head that's built up of four layers, each layer with a gasket and oil passages in it? Maybe that explains the low horsepower per cc of air cooled hondas in the 80s. Ugh. Sorry. I still don't like even "looking" at working on hondas.
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Mar 6, 2012 17:03
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Sagebrush posted:I haven't experienced any significant weirdness with my CL350, or indeed any of the things you've described except the funky petcock. Which Hondas, specifically, are you talking about? CB450, CB650, CB750, VTX1300, CMX250... We could talk about VFR's too, with plug changes that require dropping the engine. And even more modern hondas that also have frame bits blocking things like valve cover removal, or plug removal. Heck, even their dirtbikes are effed up. IIRC you need to remove the rear subframe to get to the carb on their MX bikes.
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Mar 6, 2012 23:36
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If they're running. And you keep riding them. and do routine maintance. Fine. Use your honda. But short of something female and curvy promising her favors you can fix your CB your damned self. Speaking of fixing stuff. it's time to change six gallons of oil, and a few oil filters, check a few batteries ,and make sure my insurance is paid up. As far as I'm concerned, riding season is here. VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV----- Exactly. I learned to ride on a CB450SC. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 05:28
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You do not want to ride a motorcycle without a fender. And I am fairly sure the white fender is the OEM color.
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Mar 7, 2012 19:35
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:It's actually a feature. when the coils finally do go (remember it's a 40 year old bike), it forces you to upgrade to the much better Dyna coils that can be had for much cheaper. Provided you can find dyna coils that match the expected impedance of your ignitor.
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Mar 9, 2012 17:22
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BlackLaser posted:5-Ohm and those shits are $130. Plus wires. http://www.z1enterprises.com/Dyna-Dual-Output-50-Ohm-Coils-pair-DC81-1307.aspx 3.3 ohm for most of my bikes. 5ohm are for bikes with points. Get it wrong at the cost of your ignitior box. (a $150-300 part...)
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Mar 9, 2012 17:35
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Geirskogul posted:This is your annual "Remember to use a fuel filter!" reminder. And this is your annual reminder to NOT use a fuel filter. Fuel filters have never solved anything on a motorcycle, and only provide yet another way to make your bike go lean and cut out on the highway. When I get a motorcycle with a filter, one of my first troubleshooting steps is to remove it. Your motorcycle has several filters already. There's a filter on the fuel tank pickup. On a honda, there's often a filter INSIDE the petcock. There's a last chance filter on top of your float valves. If there's that mcuh crap in your fuel system that you need a fuel filter, you're doing something else very, very wrong.
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Mar 15, 2012 15:01
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clutchpuck posted:Yep, like buying neglected bikes older than I am. Hmm... You mean my 35 year old peugeot, or 31 year old suzuki don't count? Where is this crud coming from that your filter is supposed to be stopping? find out the source of the crud, stop the crud. If you have "unknown particulate matter" coming out of your fuel tank, you need to spend some time and sort out the tank itself. Bikes are gravity fed. That means your fuel pressure is, at best, ONE psi. At worst, some small fraction of a psi. That fuel need to feed through an orifice that is usually less than 1/8" of an inch in diameter. Go grab a 1/8" drill bit, and drill a hole in a water bottle. See how fast that drains. It's shockingly slow. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:To be fair... a good fuel filter isn't a bad idea. However I'd run one in lieu of the crappy petcock sock and float valve filters. Here's something to think about. Hondas don't break down. Hondas often don't have any sort of fuel line filtration. There IS a correlation there. Dirtbikes don't have filters. Sagebrush posted:My bike has no filter on the fuel pickup, which is just a plain brass tube. The mesh screen inside the petcock disintegrated and fell out. I sure didn't see any filters inside my float valves when I rebuilt the carbs. Is it still a terrible idea to put an inline filter (these are clear, so you can see the fuel flow through them) on the lines from the petcock to the carbs? GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Those clear plastic ones are generally pretty crappy. Sagebrush posted:Tiny particles, like a grain of dust or sand that blows into the tank while filling, or a flake of rust from the corner that the fuel never quite touches, that somehow make their way into the carbs and clog the jets. Nearly every vehicle in the world comes stock with a fuel filter somewhere in the system so I don't really know why you think you know better than all the manufacturers. Your "without needing a full carb rebuild" is a false dichotomy. A leaky float valve, frequently is solved by nothing more than percussive maintenance. Heck, just the vibration of riding is often enough to take care of that. Cleaning the main jet, pilot jet, and pilot screws takes minutes, and will give you an absolute fix. And unless you have a single cylinder bike, you will not have your whole bike disabled due to a filter. All of the symptoms that come from a plugged jet, are easy to diagnose. Diagnosing a plugged filter is not consistent or easy to deal with. I suspect we will not come to an agreement on this. You will not find filters on any bike of mine that I've had to do fuel system maintenance on. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Mar 15, 2012 |
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Mar 15, 2012 18:06
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Sagebrush posted:Fair enough, but you still haven't responded to It's about pressure. Not that I find them worthless. The inline filters you can buy off the shelf are just .. .. wrong. They're very fine filters. Which means they need to be very large to provide proper flow. The filters with paper elements, can become solid blockages if there's water in the fuel. The filters on my suzuki's are large. Ten or more square inches. And they're not exceptionally fine filters. I suspect their size is chosen based on the particle size they expect to pass easily through the carbs. Also, the reserve pickup is outside the filter. The filter on the LT2 was a not very fine brass mesh. The filter on the peugeot petcock is... well it may be causing me some problems actually. On a car, or even a modern bike, where there's a pump, providing actual fuel pressure, it's a different story entirely. I suppose the response is: If the engineers know what they're doing, why are you adding ANOTHER filter on top of what they decided was adequate? Sagebrush posted:If your issue with filters is seriously that they get plugged and cause the bike to lean out, then (1) they are clearly doing their job of keeping poo poo out of the carburetors and (2) take the filter off, throw it away, install a new one and see if that fixes it. I don't really see what is so bad about that experience. "Keeping the fuel out of the carb" will also prevent crap from getting in the carb. :-) My problem is that NEW FILTERS are restrictive enough to prove problematic to fueling my bikes. Brand new. Gravity feed rated. Motorcycle specific aftermarket parts. Therefore they do not belong on my bikes. See.. I DID try putting on a new one. Several "new ones." On several different bikes. Then again, if you never truly stress your engine out, the fuel in the float bowls may just get you through any short term situation you may find yourself in. That's not a shot at you, that's just a "Nerobro rides like an rear end sometimes." A CL may never draw enough fuel for it to be an issue. Even under a heavy load. I'm still not willing to do anything more than stock oem fuel filtering on my bikes. And even then I'm apt to remove it if I suspect it's an issue. The other thing is... I've got seven years, and a dozen bikes of riding experience under my belt. I'm yet to have a bike be taken out due to particulate matter in the fuel. Have you? Water has been an issue sometimes. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Mar 15, 2012 |
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Mar 15, 2012 18:33
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Sagebrush posted:...yes? In my first post I said that the original one fell apart and there were no other filters in the system that I could find so I wanted to use a pair of inlines. Is that bad or something? I would still run without, more than add more filters. I don't trust even the sintered metal ones with a gravity feed rig.
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Mar 15, 2012 18:53
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Goldwings came stock with a filter and every complete set of 657B's I've received for rebuilding had the same odd cone shaped filter on them, (although I still don't think they came from the factory that way). Goldwings have fuel pumps. That removes the big problem of running fuel filters. You need something like 3' of head pressure to generate 1psi with gasoline. Think about that. Most fuel pumps are in the 4-10psi range. At least an order of magnitude, if not two more than what gravity feed will provide. The fuel level in the carbs on my bike, is a mere 6" below the tank.
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Mar 15, 2012 21:19
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:haha I don't think that's what they meant by "Sandcast" Float valves are, in essence, a regulator. One who's spring rate is determined by the "weight" of the float. And one with a positive pressure ratio. If you increase the input pressure, the fuel level in the float bowl will go up. The jetting, and float height will be setup to handle the 2psi. 2 psi is about the same as having your fuel tank 6' above your carbs. It's not a LOT of pressure.
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Mar 15, 2012 23:35
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The RD's were wheelie machines due to where their CG was. The engine, transmission, and exhausts make them pretty tail heavy. This isn't "bad." it's just different. The "gonna kill you" part, is due to the classic yamahahahahaha chassis. aka, soft, springy, and looking to eat you. That said, the RDs don't have a lot of power. The low power kept a lot of people a live. Go for it. :-) I wouldn't worry about you. They're great bikes.
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Mar 18, 2012 09:23
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 09:35 |
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Sir Cornelius posted:*appeal to expertise, riding exotic 2 strokes* I'm not ignorant of those models, and the chances of our OP actually buying a RZ anything is slim. For him to pick up something with a 4 cylinder would require a stroke of luck, $10,000 dollars, and the strong desire to ride a bike that shouldn't be ridden due to rarity. It would be like me trying to discuss the GS125 and XN85 as good examples of the Suzuki GS's I love so much. (An anemic single, and a turbocharged, fuel injected, 750 killer. Respectively.) I said low power, not under-powered. 50ish horsepower is the ideal range for a noob. And I'm even aware of what "a little work" will do to them. And what it does to the powerband. Without seeking specifically, our man is going to find a rd350, pre-powervalve, and if he's really lucky, it will have the stock pipes on it. If you're trying to classify anything 2 stroke with aftermarket pipes you're just silly. I'm glad you love your bikes, but what you're talking about, is not what he's talking about. Or what he's going to find. That said, I would love a RZ350, with some wildly peaky pipes. Or a GT550... Better oiling system and all that jazz. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Mar 19, 2012 |
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Mar 19, 2012 04:32
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