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Yellicopter posted:Yeah I've heard that suggested before, I'll have to give it a look. How does buying a gun from a private individual like that work in Canada anyway? Try asking over in the Canadians thread. They'll know better than me. As I recall it's basically 1) you make a deal on buying the gun. 2) you call into whatever your national registry is and get the sale approved. They transfer the name on the registration at the same time. 3) you send guy money, guy sends you gun at your home address - no need to go through a dealer or anything like people in the US do.
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| # ? Nov 1, 2009 17:45 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 14:46 |
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Yellicopter posted:Yeah I've heard that suggested before, I'll have to give it a look. How does buying a gun from a private individual like that work in Canada anyway? It's ridiculously easy, actually. Once you tell the guy "I'll take it" and has sent him his moneys, he calls the CFC to get the registration switched over to you with your PAL number you've given him. If he has a low dealer rating you might want to try to get him to change registration FIRST then when you check it with the CFC you send the money. Then he sends it out to you hopefully pretty soon after that. There's an extra step if you're buying a restricted, in that you have to call the CFC for their little pop quiz on why you want an evil, evil restricted weapon. The answer is, and always will be "target shooting". Do not elaborate! I've bought a couple restricteds off the EE so far, and it's been really smooth with no problems. Highly recommend it, a lot of the sellers on there are almost fetishistic about keeping their guns in ridiculously pristine condition. My STI arrived and I could have used it for an eating utensil it was that clean and polished. priznat fucked around with this message at Nov 1, 2009 around 18:03 |
| # ? Nov 1, 2009 17:48 |
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priznat posted:It's ridiculously easy, actually. Much more so than in the states. Well, if you're buying from someone in the same state you just give him money and he just gives you gun. No need to call anyone and get anything approved.
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| # ? Nov 1, 2009 17:54 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:Well, if you're buying from someone in the same state you just give him money and he just gives you gun. No need to call anyone and get anything approved. For your state or any state? In PA, long arms can bypass a pics/nics check in a ftf sale for PA residents but all pistols must go through ffl.
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| # ? Nov 1, 2009 17:58 |
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king of the bongo posted:For your state or any state? In PA, long arms can bypass a pics/nics check in a ftf sale for PA residents but all pistols must go through ffl. Depends state to state, really, as there may be individual state laws which cause problems. See: my ongoing quest to get a NC pistol purchase permit for a gun I already paid for. Oregon, and all the better states, just go with the federal laws, which simply say that two residents of the same state can sell to each other without involving an FFL.
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| # ? Nov 1, 2009 18:01 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:Well, if you're buying from someone in the same state you just give him money and he just gives you gun. No need to call anyone and get anything approved. Oh ok, I thought it had to go through a FFL or whatever, I see all the complaining about having to deal with the people who charge a silly fee for doing a simple service. I guess in Canada it's more of a one-size-fits-all. In that it kind of sucks equally no matter where you're buying from. Also for potential CGN EE buyers, firearms are shipped via Canada post with a tracking number. This can lead to some interesting situations, for example if you are having a restricted firearm shipped to your house but you're not home at the time, you'll have to go pick it up from the post office. Do you require a short term ATT (authorization to transport) to get it home from the post office? To be fully legal you would have to open it up, verify that it is a firearm and attach a trigger lock, something that would probably be frowned upon at the post office. If you ever do get into a situation like this, call the CFC and ask them. Don't ever, ever leave it to "oh it should be alright". The CFC is a huge make-work project and they LOVE faxing you out tons of forms and permits so they're going to help you out!
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| # ? Nov 1, 2009 18:03 |
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priznat posted:If you ever do get into a situation like this, call the CFC and ask them. Don't ever, ever leave it to "oh it should be alright". The CFC is a huge make-work project and they LOVE faxing you out tons of forms and permits so they're going to help you out! Yeah I'd wondered about that to. I figure I'd air on the side of not giving them an excuse to pull my license and just call them up to ask what the procedure should be if I ever ended up in that situation. I think you could probably just get the post office to try a second delivery, or Joe Blow postal worker might just kindly leave my sinister restricted firearm leaning against my screen door like he did the $400.00 of computer upgrades I ordered once.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 07:52 |
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Put me down for Newbie Patrol for MA/NH. If newbies don't mind border-hopping to the wonderful land of live free or die.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 15:45 |
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I have a question that might belong in Milsurp, but it's a newbie question so maybe this is the place: I am considering gettin a Mosin to go alongside the 10/22 so I can have something a little classier and more exciting to go shoot. But I'm a poor grad student and my paycheck is more used to buying .22lr than real ammo, and I've read in the excellent wiki about corrosion in the surplus stuff. Is there any way to get 7.62x54 for cheap and not have to dump water down the barrel after every session? and, does a Mosin make sense as a fun second rifle for a pretty new shooter? Alius fucked around with this message at Nov 2, 2009 around 18:44 |
| # ? Nov 2, 2009 18:27 |
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Alius posted:I have a question that might belong in Milsurp, but it's a newbie question so maybe this is the place: Brown Bear makes a pretty cheap 7.62x54R, but I wouldn't be so hesitant about shooting surplus. It doesn't take much effort to clean out your barrel after shooting. As for a Mosin being a wise choice, I'd say yes. It's cheap and will get you used to the recoil of a full-sized rifle cartridge.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 18:35 |
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Mosins are often *first* rifles for many folks on TFR, including me, so picking it up as a fun second is totally acceptable. Honestly, I wouldn't worry too much about corrosive ammo - just get in the habit of bringing water/windex/whatever, and some basic cleaning supplies along with you to the range. Five minutes invested in a quick cleaning while you're packing up is worth the difference in cost you'll pay for the new production non-corrosive stuff, or is for me at any rate.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 18:36 |
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I can definitely second what I Like Turtles says there. A mosin wasn't the first rifle I shot but it was the first rifle I owned, and I graduated pretty quickly from .22 to 54R. Cleaning supplies for it cost me +- 20 dollars at the local dollar store and a ripped t-shirt, and I'm in no danger of running out any time soon. I really wouldn't worry all that much, mosins are very much non-cost-intensive rifles to shoot and upkeep. Even when you feed it the cheapest milsurp around.
OWLS! fucked around with this message at Nov 2, 2009 around 19:43 |
| # ? Nov 2, 2009 18:41 |
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Mosins are fine second rifles. x54r surplus is cheap and you should be shooting that. I really, really want to bang this into everyone's head though: THERE IS NO SPECIAL CLEANING NEEDED FOR 'CORROSIVE' SURPLUS. NONE. No water, no windex, no shamanistic spells against the unholy legions of rust demons. Just clean your gun as normal. Run a wet patch with your favorite cleaning solution down the barrel (hoppes no 9 is my poison of choice), run a dry patch after that, and call it good. The ONLY difference is that you should do it pretty soon after firing if you live someplace that isn't a desert. In North Carolina in the summer I usually do it at the range, because it's so loving humid here. If you live in Vegas you can get away with not doing it for couple days. Make sure you clean off anything that would have had contact with the primer or any of the gunpowder residue. For a Mosin this means wipe down the bolt, paying special attention to the bolt face, with a rag with some hoppes on it. Wipe out the inside of the chamber. Clean the barrel. That's it. Wipe down the outside of the barrel around the muzzle if you notice any fouling there. No different from a normal cleaning, except you can't put it off for a week. Me, I just run a boresnake and then wipe off the bolt face. I've been doing this with all my bolt actions for years and I've had no rust at all. As a note - water/windex/etc WILL work, but you're basically just washing the salts out with those rather than the bore cleaner. Might as well use Hoppes and get a little of the fouling out while you're at it. If you have semi-auto it gets more complicated, but that's about it for bolt actions.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 19:10 |
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On that note, sort of a dumb question. On occasion I run patches of WD-40 down the barrel and that gets some of the fouling out nicely. Are there any adverse effects to running light grease like this down the barrel? I'm not looking to start cooking bacon with the gun or anything. Also, would I be correct in assuming that an overall oiling up of the barrel is a good measure to protect against humidity corrosion?
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 19:45 |
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Well, it won't harm the gun. But WD-40 is not a cleaner or an oil. It won't clean as well as a real solvent, and it will not significantly protect from rust (it also won't lubricate effectively on moving parts). If you must have an all-in-one product, Break-Free CLP will do a decent job. You can leave a coat of oil inside the bore to keep water off but you should always run a patch through to dry it before firing.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 19:59 |
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I can take newbies in the south Georgia/north Florida area if you are willing to drive to Valdosta. We have a private range and I can take two guests any time. We have a 200 yard rifle range, skeet range with an electric thrower, and a two pistol areas.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 20:55 |
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Pitch posted:Well, it won't harm the gun. But WD-40 is not a cleaner or an oil. It won't clean as well as a real solvent, and it will not significantly protect from rust (it also won't lubricate effectively on moving parts). If you must have an all-in-one product, Break-Free CLP will do a decent job. You can leave a coat of oil inside the bore to keep water off but you should always run a patch through to dry it before firing. Seconding this. WD-40 isn't the wonder-lubricant so many people think it is. It's made for displacing water in small motors and the like. If you aren't maintaining an outboard motor on your small boat or trying to clean out your sparkplugs after you left the hood of your car up in a heavy rain, chances are you don't need to be using WD40.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 20:59 |
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I cleaned my 10/22 with WD-40 for a year because I didn't know any better.  Still works. If you have nothing else, it will do okay, but real chemicals make it easier and faster. I still need to get a boresnake goddamnit. A light coat of oil (or CLP) in the bore of your gun is a fine way to prevent rust. When I'm done cleaning, I run a wet patch, then a dry one. That leaves enough oil on there to keep it from rusting in the short term, but not so much that I have to remember to clean it out before shooting. If you're packing your gun for extended storage, then maybe you want to slather it on a little thicker.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 21:15 |
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Fellow boresnake users, do you give it a shot of some cleaning fluid (G96, CLP or whatever) when running it through? or give the bore a shot of it and then run the boresnake through? I have done both (and also run it through dry) and can't decide what works best. Too anal about it? Most likely.. edit: sorry I mean give the boresnake a spraying of the fluid then run it through, I wasn't very clear I realized.
priznat fucked around with this message at Nov 2, 2009 around 22:05 |
| # ? Nov 2, 2009 21:59 |
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 CMP armorers use cans of WD40 when need for cleaning arises.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 22:02 |
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I run the part in between the pull string and brush through some Hoppes, run the snake through a couple times, then oil with patches. Don't know if I'm doing it "right" but it seems to work ok.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 22:02 |
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Fog Tripper posted:
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 22:07 |
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What does it take (other than assembly) to build the parts kits that are for sale all the time at gun shows and websites into functional guns? Are there any parts missing that would need to be sourced separately? How about assembly instructions?
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 22:32 |
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Parts kits are always missing the serial-numbered receiver, which is the part that legally counts as a firearm. In some cases they may include a receiver that's been deactivated and might be repairable.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 22:37 |
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priznat posted:Fellow boresnake users, do you give it a shot of some cleaning fluid (G96, CLP or whatever) when running it through? or give the bore a shot of it and then run the boresnake through? I have done both (and also run it through dry) and can't decide what works best. I put cleaning solution on the leading end of the snake and oil on the trailing end.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 22:49 |
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kuffs posted:I put cleaning solution on the leading end of the snake and oil on the trailing end. That is a fantastic idea! I will try that next time.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 22:54 |
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Pitch posted:Parts kits are always missing the serial-numbered receiver, which is the part that legally counts as a firearm. In some cases they may include a receiver that's been deactivated and might be repairable. However: 1) "Repairable" may include having to reassemble the parts into something the ATF doesn't consider to be a machine gun. 2) If you had to ask how to use a parts kit to make a functioning gun, you probably don't have the level of metalworking skill needed to weld the parts back together anyway.
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| # ? Nov 2, 2009 23:04 |
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Anybody know some decent newbie friendly private ranges in the Tucson AZ area? I just fired a gun for the first time this weekend and I'm starting to look into shooting targets as a hobby. I figure that since it's close to Christmas I can't buy my first gun since I put one on my wishlist (asked for a Marlin Model 60), but I can at least scope out places that I can go to in the meantime.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 01:29 |
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OWLS! posted:Also, would I be correct in assuming that an overall oiling up of the barrel is a good measure to protect against humidity corrosion? It's fine to protect against corrosion, however, make drat sure there's no oil or any other liquid in the barrel when you are ready to shoot. It can damage the barrel.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 02:20 |
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Sojourn posted:Anybody know some decent newbie friendly private ranges in the Tucson AZ area? I just fired a gun for the first time this weekend and I'm starting to look into shooting targets as a hobby. I figure that since it's close to Christmas I can't buy my first gun since I put one on my wishlist (asked for a Marlin Model 60), but I can at least scope out places that I can go to in the meantime. For pistol and rimfire rifles only, Marksman on 29th or Marksman II on Prince are excellent, and the only indoor ranges in town. $9 for a day of shooting, $1 for eye protection, $2 for ear protection. Range guns are fairly affordable, semi-auto pistols for $9, revolvers for $6, range guns require you to use range ammo. Can freely switch between any guns in the same caliber. They don't have particularly long range facilities, but they're good for practice. They have a 10/22 or two there to rent as well, at the same rate as pistols. You can get a membership for around $170 for a year, no range fees, gun rentals are half priced. http://www.marksmanpistol.com/ I haven't been out to Pima Pistol Club, but they seem like a solid group, and the stuff I've seen seems to indicate they have good facilities. http://www.pimapistol.org/ There are sadly no outdoor ranges within half an hour's drive, or so, of the middle of town. For shooting at random crap, Redington Pass is good, but try to avoid it on holiday weekends. Since it is an improptu shooting area, there are no facilities, no ROs, and during the holidays it gets full up with people who have no goddamn idea what they're doing. Tucson Mountain Park has a rifle and pistol range too. http://www.tucsonshooting.org/Mt_Park.php#r I like turtles fucked around with this message at Nov 3, 2009 around 03:30 |
| # ? Nov 3, 2009 03:17 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:Depends state to state, really, as there may be individual state laws which cause problems. See: my ongoing quest to get a NC pistol purchase permit for a gun I already paid for. Illinois has the same rules, however no handguns to those under 21, the buyer must have a valid Illinois FOID card, and the buyer/seller have to abide by the 3 day waiting period for handguns, and 1 day waiting period for long guns.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 03:38 |
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baupdeth posted:Illinois has the same rules, however no handguns to those under 21
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 03:42 |
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I like turtles posted:Bunch of awesome info. Sweet! That gives me an awesome starting point. I'm not adverse to a decent drive since I live in Sahuarita (about 30-45 minutes out) and commute to class at UA every day. Edit: Tucson Mountain Pass is the place I went to this weekend I think 
Sojourn fucked around with this message at Nov 3, 2009 around 04:23 |
| # ? Nov 3, 2009 04:19 |
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baupdeth posted:Illinois has the same rules, however no handguns to those under 21, the buyer must have a valid Illinois FOID card, and the buyer/seller have to abide by the 3 day waiting period for handguns, and 1 day waiting period for long guns. Yeah, that's not really 'the same rules, except...'. That's "gently caress your second amendment right in the rear end".
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 09:10 |
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I just took the scope off my CZ rifle and reinstalled the iron sights - how do i zero them in? The Brno Mod. 2 has the same sights as the CZ 452, tangent sights with an adjustable rear sight and front sight. Rear sight:  Front sight:  Which sight do i adjust when the shot lands high? In which direction do i adjust which sight when the shot lands left/right? I now this may sound stupid, but i've only zeroed in scopes so far...
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 09:43 |
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Pitch posted:Do CMP guns actually get fired or do they mostly just dust them off? Most get test fired.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 14:02 |
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eine dose socken posted:I just took the scope off my CZ rifle and reinstalled the iron sights - how do i zero them in? The numbers on the rear sight are distances, in meters I assume. You technically slide that to your target distance, and it "should" be good for your elevation (up/down). After that, you'd move the front sight up/down to adjust the point of impact at the known distance. As for what to move when, it depends on what you can move on your particular rifle. Looking at yours, just by the picture, it looks like you can slide the front sight up and down that ramp to adjust for elevation. Also, it looks like you can move the rear sight left/right to adjust for windage. From wikipedia: The general rule is the rear sight is moved in the SAME direction you wish to move the point of impact. In the illustration at right, the point of impact was LEFT and BELOW the target. To move the point of impact to the center, move the rear sight RIGHT and UP. The front sight moves the opposite direction, so it would move LEFT and DOWN. Detailed instructions for adjusting the sights: To move the line of sight DOWN (the shot hit BELOW the point of aim) the REAR sight is RAISED or the FRONT sight is LOWERED. To move the line of sight UP (the shot hit ABOVE the point of aim) the REAR sight is LOWERED or the FRONT sight is RAISED. (Example below) To move the line of sight LEFT (the shot hit LEFT of the point of aim) the REAR sight is moved RIGHT, or the FRONT sight is moved LEFT. To move the line of sight RIGHT (the shot hit RIGHT of the point of aim) the REAR sight is moved LEFT, or the FRONT sight is moved RIGHT.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2009 15:59 |
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charliebravo77 posted:Can you please cite your source. I am very, very, very curious about this. 430 ILCS 65/ Firearm Owners Identification Card Act, specifically 65/3 and 65/4 http://www.isp.state.il.us/foid/ and http://www.isp.state.il.us/foid/firearmsfaq.cfm Although they finally changed it where if you live in a surrounding state you can buy long guns and ammo. (65/3(a)) Unlawful use/posession or selling to prohibitied individuals (Felons, mentally deficenet, etc) falls under 720 ILCS 5/24 Furthermore, those under the age of 18 can get a FOID as long as a parent or legal guardian applies for them and has a FOID in good standing, i.e., not revoked or expired. 430 ILCS 65/4 Private sales requires both the buyer and seller to have a signed receipt with both FOID's, their expirations and name dob on it, along with a description and serial number. http://www.isp.state.il.us/docs/9-049.pdf
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| # ? Nov 4, 2009 02:21 |
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baupdeth posted:I got into an argument over the phone/email with the ISP officer who oversees the FOID division when I questioned the legality of buying a handgun at 18+ but under 21 from a private seller. When I explained that nowhere in the Illinois Compiled Statutes could I find a reference to any law that prohibited a person from selling a handgun to someone 18+ with a valid FOID he basically dismissed my claims and could not cite any statute that said otherwise. Here is the relevant statute for sale of firearms that backs up my claims. http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/ilc...000050K24-3.htm
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| # ? Nov 4, 2009 02:45 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 14:46 |
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Let me ask my Ops Lt tomorrow when he gets in, he retired out of ISP. Ok this is what he provided me: 720 ILCS 5/24-1.6 Unlawful Use of Weapon, specificallly 720 ILCS 5/24-1.6 (3)(I) "The person possessing the weapon was under 21 years of age and in possession of a handgun defined in Section 24-3, unless the person under 21 is engaged in lawful activities under the Wildlife Code or described in subsection 24(b)(1), (b)(3), or 24-2 (f). baupdeth fucked around with this message at Nov 4, 2009 around 20:45 |
| # ? Nov 4, 2009 03:24 |
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