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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Selective yellow lights are better in inclement weather because of the way our eyes see different colours. That and the fact that white light isn't helpful at all when it's bouncing off a shitload of white snow.
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Nov 26, 2009 00:46
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As a former Canadian Tire parts punk... I'm 90% sure a 86 Volvo won't show up in the parts registry... So watch out for that eliminator battery.
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Nov 26, 2009 01:09
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
I'm not happy with the way my Prelude's "fog lights" work - they can't be turned on independently of the headlights, but I'd like to be able to drive during the day with white or yellow lights showing forward so people won't drift into my lane at closing speeds of 240km/h, but with my pop-ups down for coolness. Those look great, and if the mounting and wiring is reasonably non-frustrating, I'd like to replace my fog lights. How much did those cost? Can you show them with something for scale, please?
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Nov 26, 2009 01:29
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
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Nov 26, 2009 07:19
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BV, have you ever checked out Buck's auto on Springfield Rd.? I was there earlier this week and saw 4-5 different volvos, one being a silver turbo wagon. I'm not sure which models/years they were but it may be worth checking out.
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Nov 26, 2009 10:28
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ExecuDork posted:I'm not happy with the way my Prelude's "fog lights" work - they can't be turned on independently of the headlights, but I'd like to be able to drive during the day with white or yellow lights showing forward so people won't drift into my lane at closing speeds of 240km/h, but with my pop-ups down for coolness. Those look great, and if the mounting and wiring is reasonably non-frustrating, I'd like to replace my fog lights. So you want to drive around in the daylight with good visibility with your fogs on because it looks cool? Douchebag. 
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Nov 26, 2009 20:10
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Cakefool posted:So you want to drive around in the daylight with good visibility with your fogs on because it looks cool? a) it looks cool (yes, I probably am a douchebag) b) oncoming traffic on the highway will not mistake my car for an absence of cars, and try to pass right into me. Headlights during even bright daylight still make a car more visible from far away, and more quickly noticeable from the ranges that make passing on 2-lane highways dangerous. But flipping up my headlights dims all the interior lights, and I can't see my clock or warning lights during the daytime. Saskatchewan farmers are famous for two things on the road: - Driving pickup trucks, poorly - not paying attention to anything out of the ordinary, ordinary being a very short list that does not include "other vehicles" or "stop signs".
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Nov 27, 2009 03:38
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Arse Porn Cage posted:
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Nov 27, 2009 11:13
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:The Duplicolor Metalcast was recommended by the fabulous Daniel Stern himself and worked really well. Tell me, did he recommend the power fist driving lights too? ExecuDork posted:But flipping up my headlights dims all the interior lights, and I can't see my clock or warning lights during the daytime. This sounds like a case of you're bleeding, but instead of stopping the flow, you just continue to mop up blood.
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Nov 27, 2009 13:30
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ExecuDork posted:I want to drive around in daylight with my fogs on and my pop-ups down because Definitely a douchebag. Put your sidelights on.
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Nov 27, 2009 23:54
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Cakefool posted:Definitely a douchebag. What are sidelights, please? Are you talking about aftermarket LED strips that full-fledged douchebags (a status I can only yearn for as of yet) install along the bottom edges of their doors and in other silly places? scapulataf posted:Have you tried the dash dimmer switch to make things brighter with the lights on? Sorry for crapping up your thread, BV.
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Nov 28, 2009 01:41
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Sidelights, the lights on the sides of the car, usually near the headlights but sometimes found on the front and/or rear fenders or on the sides of a bumper. Also often called marker lights. Sounds like you don't have any on your vehicle.
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Nov 28, 2009 03:06
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Splizwarf posted:Sidelights, the lights on the sides of the car, usually near the headlights but sometimes found on the front and/or rear fenders or on the sides of a bumper. Also often called marker lights. Sounds like you don't have any on your vehicle.  , it needs reflectors on the sides at front and rear if it doesn't already have turn signal lights that serve this function - amber or red light covers are also reflectors. I gather Japan does not have this requirement.My probably-Canadian-market '88 Prelude has front and rear lights that come on when the headlight switch is set to the intermediate position (it goes to 3 positions - off, intermediate, on). These are yellow at the front, are rather dim and thus not visible from far away or in daylight, and the switch in that position dims the interior lights - it basically leaves the turn signal lamps on. If it the switch is set to intermediate from off, the yellows come on and the headlights do not pop up. Set to intermediate from on, the headlights stay on and up. I haven't worked out the full details of the arrangement. And the fog lights only come on if I chant the special voodoo words and twirl three times widershins while waving my Burmese flag about my head and simultaneously flicking the esoterically-labelled switch on the dashboard on and off in 4/4 time. Or something, those electrical switches are still a bit of a mystery to me. Bulk Vanderhuge, can I please see some more pictures of your Powerfist lights?
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Nov 28, 2009 06:25
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Splizwarf posted:I have an original copy of that ad cut out of an old Car and Driver tacked up on my wall. 
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Nov 28, 2009 10:32
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ExecuDork posted:Pardon? Ok, sounds like you do have sidelights If they dim your interior lights that's the problem. Can you change them from yellow to white lights to increase the visibility? Can you take the light stalk apart, see how it dims you interior lights, change it so they only dim at full? Sorry, pet peeve. Back to the volvo love. Edited because I may be a douchebag also. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Nov 28, 2009 |
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Nov 28, 2009 14:18
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InitialDave posted:It also helps prevent the French Resistance taking pot shots at you. Don't know if that's a factor where you live. I'll be prepared if I ever experience a time slip while driving  7lip posted:As a former Canadian Tire parts punk... I'm 90% sure a 86 Volvo won't show up in the parts registry... So watch out for that eliminator battery. Apparently that was the only battery listed and the specs check out so it should be good. HachiGo posted:BV, have you ever checked out Buck's auto on Springfield Rd.? I was there earlier this week and saw 4-5 different volvos, one being a silver turbo wagon. Hmm...I might have to make a trip once this POS is on the road. Thanks for the heads up! scapulataf posted:Tell me, did he recommend the power fist driving lights too? Yes, right after he told me to wire my savings into his bank account ExecuDork posted:Bulk Vanderhuge, can I please see some more pictures of your Powerfist lights?   I got them on sale a couple of years ago: http://www.princessauto.com/truck-trailer/electrical/miscellaneous-lighting/4250151-quartz-halogen-driving-lights?keyword=driving+lights There's a different set on sale next week, check out the flyer. Honestly, don't run foglights in clear weather because you'll just piss people off. See if you can increase the brightness of the marker lights or just use the headlights. The absence of a dimmer is pretty strange.  I gingerly checked the seat heaters and the bottom one is kaput. The heater element lines are glued in and run everywhere, and I didn't want to disassemble the entire seat so I bypassed it for now. My back will be warm and I won't decrease my sperm count so it's all good.  I really, really regret trying to strip the wheels. I could've have gotten away with just removing the clearcoat off the polished faces but nooooooo I had to apply stripper on the hardest paint known to man.  So many loving spokes 
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Nov 28, 2009 16:57
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Crispulus posted:WOW! We looked. And by George it does! Yeah, Did Canuck versions of this car get that? (the stick) Yes, you could get a stick turbo wagon up here too. Bulk > don't put anti-seize on your lug threads - it will alter the torque rating by about 30% (as in, you're applying 30% more force than you think). Get decent covered lug nuts (to prevent moisture) and then spray the rotor mounting face with white lithium grease as well as the wheel mounting face. I've been doing this for 3 years now (after working with a long time mechanic who banned anti-seize from his garage due to the fuckups and general messes it makes on customers cars) and never had a problem with rusted on wheels. Just don't want you to accidently rip out a lug and have to screw around putting a new one in. EDIT: And get those tires dismounted and rims sand/bead blasted. There's no point wasting weeks of your time when it could be done in an afternoon with a couple cases of beer as a bribe. Just pop open your phonebook and call someone up. Just tell them you have a few small pieces and wanted to know if you could slip them in - and WHAT kind of payment they'd like for this small side job.... Sockington fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Nov 28, 2009 |
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Nov 28, 2009 17:23
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Sockington posted:Yes, you could get a stick turbo wagon up here too. 30% more? Also,what did he use when putting plugs in? I've heard of people using brake lube or die-electric before. Curious to what this guy would use if anti sieze was banned.
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Nov 28, 2009 19:49
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scapulataf posted:Curious to what this guy would use if anti sieze was banned. It was more to do with brakes/etc. People tend to put way too much on and make a mess of things - also anti-seize has a horrible way of transferring onto the paint and interior of customer cars. quote:The directions make no torque reduction allowance for the lubrication effects of the anti seize, and the effects it may have on increasing axial loads beyond those anticipated at OEM specified torques. Sockington fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Nov 29, 2009 |
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Nov 29, 2009 06:50
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The loving car kept flooding and I managed to cross thread TWO loving spark plug holes even though I loving HAND THREADED THEM IN. Then the number two cylinder gets really goddamned hosed because Volvo decided to angle the spark plug entry horizontally and vertically so I can't even line the motherfucking poo poo eating tap in properly to unfuck the threads. So now I have the option of unbolting half the shitfucking engine in order to pull the dick gobbling head and work in subzero temperatures for a week or tow this dilapidated rubiks cube of misery 10km out of the city and roll it into the goddamn floodway. MOTHERFUCK ME FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK
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Dec 2, 2009 23:08
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So things are going well then I take it? No that sucks though. Hopefully you can get it straightened out without having to tear it all apart.
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Dec 2, 2009 23:59
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It'll run on three, just pull that fuel injector. I feel your pain.
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Dec 3, 2009 01:28
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That's disappointing, usually these blocks and head seem to be pretty sturdy.
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Dec 3, 2009 03:00
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CharlesM posted:That's disappointing, usually these blocks and head seem to be pretty sturdy. Nah, if you (or the previous owners) don't use anti-seize the threads get hosed right quick. Happens all the time, usually it's the #4 plug because of the odd angle back by the firewall. Bulk, an experienced Volvo shop should be able to helicoil those with their eyes shut if you can tow it down there.
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Dec 3, 2009 04:04
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After a much needed cool down period I ran a thread chaser through the holes and now I can thread the plugs in and tighten them up. As long as the cylinder walls don't get hosed up by some aluminum shavings things should be good, albeit with some possible compression leaking. I just need it to hold for a couple months before I can do a proper fix on it.
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Dec 3, 2009 20:12
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:After a much needed cool down period I ran a thread chaser through the holes and now I can thread the plugs in and tighten them up. As long as the cylinder walls don't get hosed up by some aluminum shavings things should be good, albeit with some possible compression leaking. I just need it to hold for a couple months before I can do a proper fix on it.    That was large chunks of brass, but its still quite bad.
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Dec 3, 2009 20:56
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Duct tape and some 1/2 inch OD tube of some sort (fuel line, fish tank hose, etc.) would turn a vacuum cleaner into a metal shavings-sucker-outer. That'll make sure you don't get the same result as in those pics Baby Hitler showed.
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Dec 3, 2009 23:58
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It's sort of rudimentary, but you could use one of those long, flexible rods with the magnet on the end of it. No one should have to drive around with shavings in their engine.
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Dec 4, 2009 01:37
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^^^^^^Magnets don't work on aluminum.
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Dec 4, 2009 01:57
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leica posted:^^^^^^Magnets don't work on aluminum. I'm imagining the worst case scenario - after getting no aluminum, if the magnet came loose and stuck to the iron wall of the cylinder. For future reference, if you dip the tap (or thread chaser) in grease, it not only lubes the cutting action but collects a majority of the chips so they don't fall into your cylinder.
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Dec 4, 2009 04:42
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leica posted:^^^^^^Magnets don't work on aluminum. Please don't try that.
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Dec 4, 2009 04:58
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LloydDobler posted:Nah, if you (or the previous owners) don't use anti-seize the threads get hosed right quick. Happens all the time, usually it's the #4 plug because of the odd angle back by the firewall. Consider me corrected. I guess I was just lucky with my Volvos.  They had been taken well care of though.
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Dec 4, 2009 11:43
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LloydDobler posted:For future reference, if you dip the tap (or thread chaser) in grease, it not only lubes the cutting action but collects a majority of the chips so they don't fall into your cylinder.
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Dec 4, 2009 14:27
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I coated the tap with wheel bearing grease and wiped it off/reapplied it a bunch of times when I was doing it. Hooked up some vinyl tubing to the vac and hopefully sucked any remaining shavings. Still trying to figure out the no start issue. Battery's been fully charged, starter cranks at a good speed but the plugs keep getting wet. Fuel pump's working and there was spark when I checked it last. I'm going to go through the ignition again tonight.
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Dec 5, 2009 00:03
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If the head is not aluminium, you can stick a thin magnet down the plug hole and perhaps catch a few stray chips.
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Dec 5, 2009 00:08
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Cranks to kingdom come but isn't starting, here's what I've done so far: -Grounded each plug and saw visible spark -Audible fuel pump noise and fuel relay when cranking -Swapped with several other fuel relays -New fuel filter -Plugs are wet -Tachometer reads the RPM when cranking -Checked for obvious vacuum leaks -Tried starting fluid -No catalytic converter to clog
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Dec 5, 2009 20:35
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You have visible spark but starting fluid won't fire it up? Weird. With the wet plugs it sounds like maybe you're flooding it. I'd think the next thing to check is the fuel pressure. also for starters just take the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and sniff it. If there's fuel in it your regulator is busted and pouring fuel into a vacuum line. Although unless you've hooked it back up, I can see in your first picture of the engine that it's disconnected - so you both have a large vacuum leak and uncontrolled fuel pressure. I don't know enough about how fuel pressure regulators work to know if that would cause a non start condition though. I'd expect a run lovely condition. Ignore the circles, this is how that FPR hose is supposed to be routed:  This is a '91 engine bay so some of the things are different but most of it is the same.
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Dec 5, 2009 21:16
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Could it have anything to do with the intake mod you've done? You only need fuel, air, and heat.. and it sounds like you've checked and double-checked two of those things. EDIT: Also, great thread. Mr.Peabody fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 21:18
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 Visible spark isn't the same as enough spark. Visible can be as low as 2000 volts when you need 10,000 just to idle. See if you can lay hands on an adjustable-gap spark tester; the length of the gap is graded in voltage. If it's not the air, I think your ignition coil or spark cables are hosed.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 23:33
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FPR has been hooked back up, no gasoline from the vac line. The plugs have been wet but not completely soaked. Is the pump supposed to be on when the ignition's in the on position? I can hear it pumping when cranking and for a second after stopping. Edit: I'll see if I can find some specs for the coil so I can bench test it. The engine is catching now, still no idle. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Dec 6, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 23:55
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