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On my 740, the fuel pump pressurizes when you turn the key to "On", if you don't immediately crank it you can hear the "rrrt"; when I turn the car off it does buzz for a couple tenths of a second. e: is your problem something like this: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm#Cold_Start_Dies_Dirty_IAC or more this? http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm#Engine_Dies_After_Starting How's your idle air controller look? Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Dec 6, 2009 |
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Dec 6, 2009 01:42
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I coated the tap with wheel bearing grease and wiped it off/reapplied it a bunch of times when I was doing it. Hooked up some vinyl tubing to the vac and hopefully sucked any remaining shavings. after doing this you can also turn the engine over without a plug in, which should blast out any of the bits you missed!
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Dec 6, 2009 10:18
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:FPR has been hooked back up, no gasoline from the vac line. The plugs have been wet but not completely soaked. Is the pump supposed to be on when the ignition's in the on position? I can hear it pumping when cranking and for a second after stopping. Are the plug wires in the correct order... Are you sure of this? Do you know if the rotor is going counterclockwise or clockwise? I was in a similar situation that had me scratching my head for 3 days turned out the distributor in question goes counterclockwise...
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Dec 6, 2009 11:37
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tried cracking the throttle when cranking? verify spark timing, and that wires are on the right plugs?
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Dec 6, 2009 18:15
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If you're unsure, the plug wires go 4, 3, 1, 2 across the distributor from passenger side to driver's side. Like so:
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Dec 6, 2009 18:26
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What sort of idle system do these have? Stepper motor, PWM, coolant wax pellet, adjustable screw, a combo? Fuel pump primes for a few seconds on EFI cars when you go key on, it starts running consistently when the start signal is recognized and continues operating with the engine running.
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Dec 6, 2009 18:30
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ARe all the plugs firing? I see what appears to be a distributor there. Perhaps the timing belt is busted, and the plug you happen to be checking is the one thats got the rotor stuck to the contact point inside the cap. OR the timing belt jumped some teeth and cam/ignition timing is out of whack.
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Dec 6, 2009 19:33
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The thread title really needs to be changed to something like "Hauls rust and broken engine parts" 
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Dec 6, 2009 22:39
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The ignition coil was out of spec and two of the spark plug wires had no continuity so I replaced all that junk. -Distributor cap and rotor look ok, cleaned the contacts -Plugs are getting nice fat spark -Spark plug wires are routed correctly -Inline fuel pump is definitely turning and staying on -Fuel is reaching the combustion chambers -Swapped the FI relay with 4 other ones -Nothing clogging up the intake -Engine block heater is keeping things warm The timing belt and everything looked fine when I checked it but I could always take another look. RPM is being registered so it's not the Hall Effect sensor. It could be a bad ECU but if that was the case would the car be able to crank and dispense fuel though? Ah gently caress, I didn't know the Idle Air Control valve could cause a no start issue. I'll take a look at it along with the Radio Supression relay. http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm#Radio_Suppression_Relay You Am I posted:The thread title really needs to be changed to something like "Hauls rust and broken engine parts" 
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Dec 7, 2009 04:12
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Ignition coil and some wires were hosed, and now that they're replaced, the problem remains? What a kick in the balls. In light of what you've tried so far, would you mind describing the problem again and using more words? When you say it's "catching but no idle", does that mean you've got explosions, and so the problem isn't no fuel, air, spark, compression, but controlling them and stabilizing an idle? "Catching but no idle" implies that if you floor it, the engine continues to run, is this the case, or am I reading stuff retardedly wrong? e: Bulk Vanderhuge posted:-Grounded each plug and saw visible spark None of these address air. My money's now on the IAC if it doesn't run at wide open throttle, and the Mass Air Flow sensor if you're not even getting that far. poo poo, wait, this is stupid, but is your throttle body verified working and correctly?  Isn't the idle air a bypass around the butterfly? Clean that bitch's holes right now.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dec 7, 2009 05:55
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Since it's easy to test, there's no point in NOT testing the radio supression relay, but my understanding is that it causes a no-spark condition. At least that's what it did on my last 940.
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Dec 7, 2009 08:22
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IAC valve was taken apart, cleaned and tested but still nothing. Couldn't locate a radio suppression relay. I can hear the fuel relay click when the ignition is in the ON position (with the warning lights) but the exterior pump doesn't come on. I can hear it when I'm cranking and both pumps are audible when I jump the relay socket. When cranking the car the engine is able to fire for a second and then dies. Changing the throttle position does nothing, flooring it does nothing. The initial combustion process is happening but it can't stay running. The only other thing I can think of is a bad ECU, a bad AMM would at least result in a crappy running car. If I can't get it started it's sleeping on the driveway till spring
Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dec 7, 2009 21:07
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There are a few things you should check. Check the hall sensor (either in the dizzy or on top of the bellhousing, depending on year), check the powerstage (driver's side, near the headlight, looks like a parallelogram, the coating between both halves shrivels and breaks electrical contact), and like he said, the radio supression relay. Those are all the no-spark common ones. You can find info on brickboard on how to check for all of those.
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Dec 8, 2009 01:52
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I'm definitely getting spark and it looks like the car didn't come with the radio suppression relay. Ugh, going to check injector voltage, Engine Coolant Temperature sender and engine timing. Some guy is selling an ECU and AMM that'll fit so I always have that route.
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Dec 8, 2009 03:27
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I'd look at low fuel pressure. Buy a fuel pressure gage and tap into the line there. I think the main pump is next to the fuel filter on your car, you should hear it running right there with the door open. Also, pumps can run and still be bad, so the pressure check rules that out. Any chance you bumped something on the fuel pump or unplugged a wire when you did the filter?
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Dec 8, 2009 07:29
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I cleaned the connectors to the fuel pump and it shot out a shitload of fuel when I didn't tighten the filter enough. If it was the check valve it should after the first try. I still have to check the injectors and I'll check how much gas is coming out of the fuel rail feed line.
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Dec 9, 2009 00:04
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Same as the spark, a shitload of fuel isn't quantifiable as a pressure; you want an inline gauge, after the fuel filter. I feel like I'm being a dick but I'm not intending to. 
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Dec 9, 2009 04:49
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Exactly. Just because it flows a lot at zero pressure doesn't mean it flows at high pressure. The local volvo shop tested my ex's fuel pump by dead-heading the pump on a gage and while it was working, it was about 80% of what was needed.
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Dec 9, 2009 05:25
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LloydDobler posted:Exactly. Just because it flows a lot at zero pressure doesn't mean it flows at high pressure. The local volvo shop tested my ex's fuel pump by dead-heading the pump on a gage and while it was working, it was about 80% of what was needed. Man, gently caress you, now I need to check mine.  Also, what's the right ATF and power steering for my '92 740? No manual with the car and the Haynes info looks dated. I'm going to work the internet for it but I figured you might know off the cuff.
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Dec 10, 2009 01:06
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Splizwarf posted:Man, gently caress you, now I need to check mine. I'm not at all an expert on Volvos but generally any modern DEXRON III equivalent will work for most power steering pumps.
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Dec 10, 2009 06:49
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My '88 240's power steering went fine on cheap Dexron III ATF, and lots of it because I had a few different leaks over the years.
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Dec 10, 2009 07:02
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Splizwarf posted:Man, gently caress you, now I need to check mine. Bookmark this: Also, love me. https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1992/1992_740/92740_1.html
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Dec 10, 2009 20:41
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Car is sleeping on the driveway now, hoping for -15°C weather this weekend to do some more troubleshooting. I'll post some more pictures of me dicking around.
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Dec 12, 2009 02:56
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LloydDobler posted:Bookmark this: Also, love me. https://www.customers.volvocars.com/owners/docs/1992/1992_740/92740_1.html Holy poo poo, you're awesome. I went through every 700/900 in a junkyard today looking for any year's manual and good Volvo floormats. e: and I found floormats so now the day is complete.
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Dec 12, 2009 07:52
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It's worth signing up on their website, I get a tiny amount of spam from VCNA but otherwise you can grab every piece of literature they've ever published in HTML format. They even have the manual for my 122 up on the site. Every time someone asks for a manual I just log in and hit 'em with the link. Once a 240 manual had the pictures fail (red x's throughout), but I checked it a few days later and they were back. It's really cool that Volvo does that. They also have the sales brochures, option lists, and all the trim variations and such for the newer models.
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Dec 13, 2009 09:05
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Well then Click here for the full 1280x801 image. http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-1986-Volvo-740-Wagon-W0QQAdIdZ180899706 I can see the turbo intercooled badges on the back. Worth a look? Relegate the current one to parts/junk/sell it? Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jan 26, 2010 |
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Jan 26, 2010 18:42
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I can see the turbo intercooled badges on the back. Worth a look? Relegate the current one to parts/junk/sell it? Haha I like that ad No rust at all!! *picture of car covered in salt residue* Worth a look.
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Jan 26, 2010 18:47
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 I just don't know when to stop
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Jan 26, 2010 18:52
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
You've got Awesome's Syndrome.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:24
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I can see the turbo intercooled badges on the back. Worth a look? Relegate the current one to parts/junk/sell it?
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Jan 26, 2010 19:32
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That's not salt residue, that's frost. Cars only have frost like that on them if they've been sitting in sub-zero temperatures (but not super cold, down to maybe -20*C) for at most 48 hours. Longer than that, and frost like that sublimes off or is covered by snow. It's not stable, and indicates that car was driven long enough to get up to operating temperatures, recently. Assuming the picture isn't like 10 years old. "no rust at all" is mighty suspicious, though. Find out where the car has spent most of its life - if it really is without patina, it hasn't been in Winterpeg for very long. "Edmonton" or "Yellowknife" are answers you're looking for, those cities never use salt on their roads as far as I am aware.
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Jan 27, 2010 03:17
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ExecuDork posted:That's not salt residue, that's frost. I wanted to say this as a wpg resident but the wiper patch on the back window confused me. I guess it has wiper fluid back there.
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Jan 27, 2010 13:14
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That other wagon was sold already, dumb car is still being dumb. I was going to look at a Merkur tomorrow but I'm going to the wreckers instead. If it's open then pics will follow.
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Feb 17, 2010 01:57
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So this Volvo's gone to heaven?
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Feb 17, 2010 05:52
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You Am I posted:So this Volvo's gone to heaven? Not quite, although that depends on what happens this weekend. I took HachiGos suggestion and went to check out Bucks Auto for parts.  Not a Volvo...  Not a Volvo... (Anyone want a tow hitch for their FB?)  Volvo! Albeit in B230F form. In my attempt to free that grill I snapped off one of the tabs   Ghost of Christmas future. I pulled the AMM off of this one.  Eggcrate grill...  Great success! This 744 was still fairly complete. Snagged the ECU, IAC and aforementioned grill.   Those seats were absolutely mint! I don't need seats but they're only $40 for the pair. Ugh, I'll be back for cruise control bits/FPRs/door panels this weekend so I can decide then.Going to look at that Merkur XR4TI today so I won't get to test out my $7 ECU just yet.
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Feb 18, 2010 16:46
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The ECU swap didn't fix anything so I'm back to square one. It pauses when it's cranking, borked starter/solenoid? The timing belt looks good though  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC9jeBqG8Fk
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Feb 20, 2010 20:34
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It looks like it cranks fine at first and after some cranking it starts pausing. My bet is on the starter
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Feb 20, 2010 22:20
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Did you check the engine grounding cables? Might be worth cracking them loose and re-tightening to break any corrosion they might have. Just a hunch that there might be corrosion...
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Feb 21, 2010 05:19
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LloydDobler posted:Did you check the engine grounding cables? Might be worth cracking them loose and re-tightening to break any corrosion they might have. Just a hunch that there might be corrosion... Seconding this, on my old car the starter would hesitate a bit for a while, cleaned the starter connections and all was good.
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Feb 21, 2010 05:30
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So... -Cleaned ECU/other grounds -Injectors are getting voltage, grounds are good -Strong spark from the plugs -Pulled return line off fuel rail, healthy amount of gas -Swapped in ECU, FPR, ignition powerstage, fuel pump relay and coil that came off a working car -Fuel filter installed correctly Engine cranks fine now, plugs are sooty and show traces of gas but aren't wet. Fuel pressure is probably the only thing I haven't tested yet, I haven't been able to find a test port on the rail though. I guess I'll have to splice into the fuel line that comes off the external pump? Edit: poo poo, if it is fuel then it should run with starting fluid. Disconnect intercooler pipe to throttle body and spray in there? Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Mar 29, 2010 |
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Mar 28, 2010 23:55
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