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1993 Dodge Dakota. 5.2L V8 2WD Tilt steering column with cruise control buttons. One good thing I can say is that usually when something goes wrong with this truck, it goes wrong at the right time. In this case, my horn started blaring right when I had the chance to turn into a nice big parking lot and fumble for several moments with the owners manual, find the right fuse, and pull it in order to shut the fucker up! ...On a Friday night with me having no real plans for the weekend. So I've lost my horn and my tachometer, since that particular fuse controls both. I believe the problem lies in the steering wheel, as rotating it made the horn stop just long enough for me to find the fuse and pull it. My guess is the switch or button or whatever's inside the steering wheel is broken and that I need a new one. Can anyone tell me what this part is called and how much a new one would cost?
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| # ? Nov 06, 2009 23:29 |
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| # ? Nov 21, 2009 06:45 |
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Just pick up a wheel from a junked one. Shouldn't be too hard. Is it an airbag vehicle?
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| # ? Nov 06, 2009 23:33 |
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It could just be something's gone and earthed itself, I'd remove the hornpush/wheelcover and see if there's anything obviously wrong.
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| # ? Nov 06, 2009 23:38 |
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angryhampster posted:Just pick up a wheel from a junked one. Shouldn't be too hard. Is it an airbag vehicle? Non airbag. Finding a wheel from a junked one isn't exactly easy, plus that wheel could very well develop the same problem. InitialDave posted:It could just be something's gone and earthed itself, I'd remove the hornpush/wheelcover and see if there's anything obviously wrong. Yeah, I'll do that tomorrow.
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| # ? Nov 06, 2009 23:47 |
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Like the others said, it could be the switch in the wheel. It could also be a clockspring, but being a non-airbag wheel I kind of doubt it uses one.
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| # ? Nov 07, 2009 04:59 |
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Yeah, sounds like the relay primary is getting grounded independent of the switch, which is usually on the ground of such setups. You can check to see if you're getting voltage to the horn switch; if not, the wires leading to and from it most likely have rubbed, exposed their wiring, and made contact. The short might also be located in your slip ring. Check if you can see continuity on the horn switch wires with the switch open; if so, power is probably arcing between the metal rings, or in some way getting between them.
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| # ? Nov 07, 2009 05:11 |
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Happened on my car too. Foam that separated a copper pad from another metal pad collapsed and made the circuit complete all the time. Couldn't make it stop, so I had to pop the center off and yank the wire going to the horn, which also made my cruise control stop working. Had to get a pad and center cover from the boneyard, but that fixed it right up.
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| # ? Nov 07, 2009 05:17 |
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same thing happened on a 91 buick i had. i hated that car so much because of that. i think in the end it was just a very simple metal tab under the center cover on the wheel. the fuse for the horn, by the way, also goes to the radio and the cabin light. and it's marked "CTSY" on the fuse box. you figure that one out. loving buick retards.
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| # ? Nov 07, 2009 05:26 |
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Okay I got inside the steering wheel, and the horn switch is actually far simpler then I imagined. It's just two metal plates separated by foam. The foam is fine. One of the metal tabs from the top plate lined up a little too close to the bottom plate. I fixed that, and my multimeter shows it's working as intended. Once I can get to somewhere where I won't get in trouble for a horn blaring, I'll put the fuse back in and see what happens. EDIT: That seems to have been the problem. Horn's working as it should... good for when Mr and Mrs. Cellphone don't realize that the light has turned green. It's nice when a fix is simple for a change. I guess it could have just as easily been "pull out the whole steering column to find one electrical gremlin". Landerig fucked around with this message at Nov 07, 2009 around 17:01 |
| # ? Nov 07, 2009 14:23 |
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