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maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.



Do you have ferrets? Do you want to get ferrets? Do you want to convince your hippie roommate to take better care of his ferrets? THIS IS YOUR THREAD. (This used to be your thread until I made this new one.)

Here are some pictures of ferrets:





Ferrets are adorable, hilarious, playful animals that are also super cute. They sleep a lot, but are pretty much always up for playtime whenever you are, even if that's at noon one day and at midnight the next. Most people who are allergic to dogs and cats are not allergic to them.

Here are some questions you should ask yourself before getting a ferret:

  • What would I do if an animal poo poo on my floor, RIGHT NOW?
  • What would I do if it poo poo on the floor again an hour later?
  • Do I have the time to let my ferrets out of the cage for at least a couple of hours a day, every day?
  • Can I get someone to take care of my ferrets if I am away from home for more than 24 hours?
  • Can I set aside AT MINIMUM $500, ideally more, in a separate account or a credit card to pay unexpected medical bills?
  • Do I live in a place where ferrets are illegal, like California, Hawaii, Washington DC, New York City, New Zealand or Queensland or the Northern Territory in Australia? (NOT A COMPLETE LIST) Am I likely to move to one within the next few years?
  • Do I live with small children, or do I plan to do so within the next few years? (Well-behaved small children and ferrets are not fundamentally incompatible, but it is like... ferret ownership EXPERT MODE.)
  • How do my current roommates (and landlord) feel about ferrets? (Landlords generally don't need to be 100% on board with the idea as long as the lease doesn't forbid it, but roommates really should be)
  • Am I willing and able to factor ferrets into my future housing decisions? (You'll have to find apartments that allow them if you rent, and you'll WANT to find places without carpet - this will increase the length of your housing search, and you may have to pay more or settle for less in other areas)
  • Do I live with an animal that would pose a danger to ferrets (some dogs and cats with a very high prey drive) or one that ferrets might hurt (small rodents and birds), and can I take appropriate precautions?

You'll also need to decide how MANY ferrets you want. They are a very cuddly, social animal that benefits from having a buddy to sleep with, groom, and play with. They will play with you, too, of course, whether they're single or in pairs, but it's kind of sad when you're playing and they run under the couch, then come back out and look at you like "come ON why aren't you FOLLOWING ME?" Two ferrets have basically the same housing and bedding requirements as one, and you can buy bigger bags of food without worrying that it'll go stale. You'll want to have a bit more in your vet fund in case ferret #1 has a problem, then ferret #2 has one before you've fully replenished the fund. However, if you're really set on having just ONE, a rescue can probably match you with a ferret who doesn't like other ferrets much. (they do exist!)

Once you've figured that out, you will need to
  • Figure out where you're getting your ferret(s)
  • Set up, or at least plan, what you're going to do for housing, bedding, and litter
  • Ferret proof your house, or at least the rooms where the ferret(s) will be allowed
  • Get a high-quality ferret food
  • Get other important (and maybe some not-so-important) supplies
  • Research ferret vets in your area
  • Read up on common ferret behavioral and health problems

All of these things are addressed in the posts below this one. Aren't you lucky? So go ahead and read the first page of this thread. If your question isn't answered there, don't feel like you need to read the whole thread before you post - after all, if a question is asked so much we're sick of answering it, it really should be addressed at the beginning of the thread.

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maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

So, you still want ferrets.

Here is where people get ferrets from:
  • Ferret rescues or animal shelters (yay!)
  • Pet stores (boo!)
  • Breeders
  • Craigslist, Kijiji, or similar sites
  • Your irresponsible friend who doesn't want his ferret anymore

Ferret rescues are by far the best place to get ferrets for most people in North America, because they'll be very familiar with the health, temperament, and idiosyncracies of each individual ferret and will be able to match you with one who's really good for you. They're also a great resource for figuring out which local vets are good, where to buy supplies, how to ferret proof your particular home, and all sorts of other things the internet can't help you with. Some rescues also do fostering, where you take care of the ferret and (in some cases) pay for its food and supplies, and they pay for its medical bills. If you are broke and still want to have ferrets, this is a great way to do it. Rather than giving a list that'll quickly become out of date, I'll just say that if you're interested in rescuing, post and ASK. We will help you find something.

Pet stores sell baby ferrets to any idiot who walks in off the street, you included. This is bad. But what's worse is where they get the ferrets from. They get them from large scale ferret mills (think puppy mills only more sad because ferrets are way better than puppies) that DON'T breed for the long-term health of your ferret. They breed ferrets that sell well as babies at pet stores. Period. At some mills, like Marshall Farms, they also breed for ferrets that will do well as lab animals for biomedical research. Whether or not you think that's good or right or necessary, what the biomedical industry wants in a ferret and what you want in a ferret are not really going to be the same things. While some do win the genetic lottery and come out robust and healthy, like one my local ferret rescue recently had to put down at 9 1/2, others drop dead at 3 1/2, like my Marshall's ferret Sassy. And YOU, an inexperienced person looking at a bunch of little baby ferrets, are not going to be able to tell which is which. If you get your ferret from a pet store and thus support ferret mills, we will still help you take good care of it. We're not going to make a ferret suffer in order to make you feel bad about where you got it. But YOU ARE THE REASON OUR FERRETS DIE SO YOUNG, YOU JERK. There. Got it out of my system now.

Breeders are not really an option for most people in North America, because the market is so thoroughly dominated by milled ferrets, who are all sold spayed and neutered. But let's say you live in Europe, or you find one. You'll need to figure out whether the breeder is good or not. So ask some questions! A good breeder will talk to you about their ferrets and plans until you are thoroughly sick of it. If you post the answers to the questions here, we can tell you if they're good ones.

  • Where do your breeding ferrets come from?
  • How do you choose which ferrets to breed to each other?
  • Where do the ferrets you breed end up? (hunting, show, housepets...)
  • What are your goals for this litter?
  • How long do your ferrets usually live, and what do they usually die from?
  • Do you offer any health guarantees?
  • If I'm ever unable to keep my ferret, will you help me find it a new home?

Craigslist, Kijiji, and whatever may, depending on your area, be full of people getting rid of their unwanted ferrets, often with supplies like a cage included. This doesn't directly support ferret mills like buying from pet stores does, but it does (assuming you pay significantly more than you would for just the supplies) encourage people to think of ferrets as just a commodity you can get most of your money back for if you don't want it anymore. You're also reliant on the word of someone who doesn't necessarily have the best interests of you OR the ferret in mind, and who may not be that experienced with ferrets, to give you accurate information about the ferret's age, health, and temperament. I got my first two ferrets this way, and while we loved them dearly and the girl who sold them and their stuff to us was not trying to take advantage of us, one of the ferrets developed an expensive chronic health problem soon after we got them, and it was only maybe two months before we'd paid more in medical bills than we paid for the ferrets in the first place. Knowing what I do now, I can say that the ferret in question was just starting to show signs of the problem when we got her, but it's not something you can generally identify without experience. If you don't have a ferret rescue near you, though, this CAN be a good way to get ferrets. Go with ones that are claimed to be young, 1-2 years old if you can find them, and for god's sake check their teeth to make sure. Ferrets that age should have relatively clean teeth, and the canine teeth (the long vampire fang ones) should be a nice bright white almost the whole way down the tooth, with maybe a little bit of yellowing/translucent area at the end of the tooth. Check out the medical section to make sure you don't see any of those signs of diseases. Ask the person if you can get vet records. They may not have them on hand, but they should be willing to tell you which vet or vets the ferret has been to and call to have the records sent to your new vet, if you're not using the same one.

Your irresponsible friend who doesn't want a ferret anymore probably won't be trying to lie to you like someone you're giving money to might, but irresponsible people also don't tend to take great care of their ferrets or notice signs of health problems.

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

(housing/bedding/litter post goes here)

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

Ferrets LOVE to knock stuff over, climb things, and get into holes. Unless you want your stuff destroyed and/or your ferret injured, you'll need to ferretproof your house. Here's what to do:

Supplies for ferretproofing:
  • A ping-pong ball
  • A measuring tape, or a ruler at least 12" long
  • A flashlight
  • A sheet or two of corrugated plastic, available with a trip to Home Depot or by scavenging old real estate or political candidate signs.
  • Double-sided foam tape, or another way to attach the corrugated plastic to stuff
  • An x-acto knife to cut the coroplast

The ping-pong ball represents the ferret's head. Any holes larger than a ping-pong ball that lead to places you don't want the ferret to go will need to be blocked off. The measuring tape will tell you how high the ferret can reach. In my experience, a large and motivated ferret can knock over things (like garbage cans) up to 18" high, and can climb up onto things about 12" high even without anything to dig his or her back claws into. Fabric or anything that allows the ferret to get a boost with its back legs extends that range pretty much indefinitely.

So! Take your ping-pong ball, your ruler, your flashlight, and go around your house looking for stuff your ferret can get into. When you see it, block it off with the coroplast. Get down on your hands and knees, or even on your belly, so you can see things from a more ferret-like angle. Pay special attention to:

  • Cabinets - if you can open it with your toe, the ferret can open it. Either get all the dangerous (sharp, chemical-y, whatever) things out of the cabinet, get really strong latches to keep it closed, or keep the ferret out of that room.
  • Areas inside cabinets - particularly in kitchens, these can often have holes big enough for a ferret to fit into.
  • Areas next to, behind, and under appliances - again, particularly in kitchens. Even if the ferret can't get all the way behind, around, or under the appliance, are the edges of the appliance sharp or hot?
  • Just the whole drat kitchen in general - Honestly, kitchens tend to contain at least 3/4 of the ferret death traps in a house. You can ferretproof it if you really work at it, but most of the time, it's just going to be easier to ban the ferrets from the kitchen.
  • RECLINERS and ROCKING CHAIRS - These things can easily kill a ferret if they get up inside the mechanism or go under the rocking chair. And they will, because they are ferrets. Your options are not letting the ferrets into the room the chair is in, getting rid of the chair, or vigilantly enforcing the rule that no one is EVER allowed to sit in the chair before making sure ALL the ferrets are in the cage.
  • Couches - Ferrets will happily squirm down into the recesses of the couch, either by going around the seat cushions (use your ping-pong ball to see if they can do this - really jam it into the edges by the arms and back) or by clawing open the fabric stuff that covers the springs underneath. Block their access from the top of the couch by stuffing bits of fabric or squishy foam in there, and block their access from below with coroplast attached to the bottom of the couch. Cardboard can also work here if it's good, thick cardboard.
  • Heating grates and radiators - Some old heating grates have very widely-spaced bars. Some are not well-attached. Some radiators may be dangerous, especially if they get really hot. (If it can burn your fingers, it can burn your ferret's nose or paws) If you're not sure how to make it safe, ask.
  • Drawers - a determined ferret can pull dresser drawers out and climb into them. A REALLY determined ferret can stand in one dresser drawer, push the next one out, climb up into that one, and so on until it reaches the top of the dresser. This is usually more cute than it is dangerous, but you should be aware of it.
  • Things on tables - You are not allowed to have nice knick-knacs anymore unless you put them somewhere enclosed or inaccessible. I'm sorry.

Most ferrets don't chew cords like rodents do. (Because they are NOT RODENTS) But some do. If yours has this problem and it's not fixed by spraying the cord with bitter apple or another taste deterrent, you'll need to move the cords. Some ferrets also have a fixation on chewing things with a foamy or rubbery texture. Remote control buttons and those little foam earplugs are reported favorites. This can give your ferret an intestinal blockage, and those are both deadly and expensive, so you'll want to practice keeping those things somewhere the ferret can't get to.

maplecheese fucked around with this message at Dec 2, 2009 around 17:46

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

What should ferrets eat?

Short answer:

Meat.

Long answer:

Ferrets' wild ancestors are European polecats, who are related to them in the same way that wolves are related to dogs. European polecats eat rodents, frogs, small birds, and some insects. Ferrets were domesticated and bred for centuries to hunt rabbits. These things should be kept in mind when planning a diet for a ferret.

For most owners, the best way to feed ferrets will be with an appropriate, high-quality dry kibble, supplemented by canned wet food, raw meat, and/or whole prey. I suggest keeping at least some kibble in their diet for a few reasons:

  • They have very, very speedy little digestive systems and need to eat often. You presumably have a job and/or hobbies that take you out of the house for a while each day.
  • If someone needs to take care of your ferret, it's a lot easier to ask them to fill up a bowl of kibble than to defrost and slice open a mouse
  • Feeding a good kibble takes away some of the need to worry about whether you're getting all the appropriate nutrients into the raw diet you're providing.

North American ferrets should always be free-fed, with their bowl kept full of kibble - as long as they're getting enough time out of the cage, they won't get fat. They get underweight, not overweight. For European ferrets, talk to an experienced ferret vet about how much your ferret should be eating per day, and how to tell if it's getting too chubby.

You may want to take your ferret's dry food away for an hour or two before offering wet food, raw, or whole prey, just so s/he isn't totally full when you offer it.

Kibble
The dietary requirements of ferrets are very similar to the dietary requirements of kittens. This is really lucky for ferret owners, because the trend toward grain-free cat foods in the past five years or so means that we now have many, many great foods to choose from. They're better than even good ferret foods used to be, they're easier to find, they're cheaper, and they're available in larger bags. Technically, ferrets can get by on most kitten foods of at least reasonable quality, or pretty much anything sold as ferret food, but this really isn't a good idea. Not only will they have to eat a lot more of the crappy food, thus negating a lot of your cost savings, they'll be less healthy and need more vet care. And, worst of all, they will smell a lot worse. Seriously. They will poop more, the poop will smell worse, their coats will be greasier, and that grease will smell BAD. Feeding a good food is really, really worth it.

Here are some general principles to follow when choosing a ferret food:
  • Maximize meat, minimize grains. Grain free if possible. For the love of god, no corn.
  • Maximize protein, minimize carbohydrates and fiber. Ferrets don't do well with fiber, keep it under 3%.
  • Maximize real meat, minimize fish, byproducts, and unnamed "meat". Fish causes odor problems for ferrets if there's too much of it in a food, byproducts and unnamed meat should be avoided for any animal's food.
  • If it's appropriate for kittens, it's probably appropriate for ferrets. Lots of great foods say "all life stages" or "kitten and cat food" on them, so don't reject it just because there isn't a picture of a ferret on the bag.

Here are some good brands, in no particular order. Many of these sites have store locators.

  • Orijen Cat & Kitten (not the 6 Fresh Fish kind) - made in a single company-owned factory in Canada with meats certified as fit for human consumption and all locally-sourced ingredients, which is good if you're worried about shoddy overseas industrial practices letting poison get into pet food. Again. CHINA WE ARE TALKING ABOUT YOU. Made with free-range poultry, which is good if you're a loving hippie. I feed Orijen.
  • Acana Prairie Feast for Cat or Grasslands for Cat - made by the same company that makes Orijen. A little lower in protein, which can be easier for some ferrets' digestive systems to handle, particularly when they get older. Grasslands doesn't have chicken, in case you have a ferret who can't tolerate chicken, though that's pretty rare.
  • Nature's Variety for cats, chicken meal or rabbit meal formula - uses tapioca as its starch source rather than potatoes like all the other grain free foods, which is kind of cool. Has a rabbit-based kibble, which is REALLY cool. Made in US factories, though they're not specific about where or who owns them. Some of their rabbit meat comes from China, but they claim to inspect and test the gently caress out of it.
  • Wellness - either CORE for cats or Kitten Health. CORE is grain free, Kitten Health isn't. Can sometimes be easier to find than other brands.
  • Innova EVO Ferret, Innova EVO Cat Turkey & Chicken, or Innova Cat & Kitten. EVO is grain free, Innova regular isn't. Very high protein. If you can find both EVO Ferret and EVO Cat, buy whichever one is cheaper.
  • Before Grain Chicken Meal formula for cats. Another slightly lower protein one - like Acana, can be good for ferrets who have issues with very high protein diets.
  • Felidae Grain Free or Cat & Kitten. The grain free one is grain free. The other one isn't.
  • Taste of the Wild Rocky Mountain Feline formula. At the top end of the acceptable fiber range at 3%, but if you can find it and your ferret likes it, give it a try!
  • Now! Grain Free Kitten Formula. Also at the top end of the acceptable fiber range, but can be another good choice.
  • Solid Gold Indigo Moon - another 3% fiber grain free food.
  • Blue Buffalo Wilderness for cats - grain free, sometimes available at Petsmart. The Petsmart website says that Blue Buffalo Wildnerness Chicken Formula has 1.6% fiber, but the manufacturer's website says it has 4%, so check the bag. The duck formula's supposed to have only 3%, if you can find it. I don't know.
  • Eight-in-One Ultimate ferret food (NOT ULTRA BLEND) - not grain free, but pretty good and sold at Petsmart and other chain pet stores. Can be more expensive in the long run because it comes in a smaller bag than cat food generally does.
  • ZuPreem ferret food - has wheat, but is otherwise decent. Also sold at Petsmart and other chain pet stores.

If none of these things are available in your area, post and let us know where you live, and we'll try to help you figure out what to do.


Wet Food

Look for a canned cat food with no byproducts, "digest", or "animal" anything, and little or no fish. Your ferret might not recognize it as food at first, but if you take a big spoonful, mix it with just a little warm water to make it runnier and stronger smelling, and squirt or push a little bit into the ferret's mouth, it should get the idea after a few tries. Since ferrets don't eat as much as cats, you'll want to either buy the really tiny cans or freeze the leftovers. Ice cube trays work well for this. My favorite wet food is Nature's Variety Instinct Rabbit - the ferrets LOVE this poo poo. Secret tip: the dog version of this food is exactly the same as the cat version, only it's cheaper and comes in bigger cans. This is not generally true for most foods, though, so DON'T switch to the dog version of a food to save money unless you have it and the cat version side by side to compare nutrition information and ingredient lists.


Raw Meat

Just like with canned food, your ferret may not recognize this as food at first. They are picky little buggers, and once they're imprinted onto kibble = food as kits, it takes a lot of work to get them to expand their horizons. The best way to do it is to get them really, really loving canned food, then mix in a little bit of ground raw food. A lot of places sell premade frozen raw cat diets now, and those are good as long as they're not fish-based. Or you can put in some ground or minced raw chicken. Just wash your hands afterward. Once the ferret is happily eating the mostly-canned, partly-raw mix, increase the amount of raw, and put less-finely-ground bits in it. They can chew it, they have those pointy teeth for a reason. If a large proportion of your ferret's diet is going to be raw, it's important to get bones and organs and stuff in there instead of just muscle meats - prepared raw diets for cats are good for this. However, if the ferret is still mostly eating kibble with occasional raw treats, don't worry too much about it.


Whole Prey

Don't even try to get your ferret eating whole prey if it doesn't eat ground raw food, unless it's still very young - it really, truly, won't see it as food. But once you've got the ferret enjoying raw, whole prey can be really awesome. PI people seem to really like RodentPro for their small frozen animal needs, but they don't ship outside of the US. Start with the little pinky mice at first, until you know how much your ferret or ferrets are willing to eat in one sitting. Follow the site's instructions for thawing them and bringing them to body temperature. Especially at first, you may need to cut open the prey item so that your ferret realizes that there's tasty meat inside this skin. Maybe put a little Ferretone (see section on other ferret supplies) on it to get the ferret to lick it. The bathtub or shower is a good place to feed whole prey - you can hose it down afterward, and the ferret can't hide mouse parts under the couch.

maplecheese fucked around with this message at Dec 2, 2009 around 17:21

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

(supplies/daily ferret maintenance post goes here)

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

Help! My ferret is...

[NOTE: NOT COMPLETE YET, BE PATIENT]

...stinky!
Unless your ferret hasn't been descented (unlikely, unless it was also unneutered when you got it), this is something you can improve all on your own, and pretty cheaply.

  • Make sure your ferret is eating a very high-quality food with very little fish in it. Check out the food post. Trust us, it makes a difference.
  • Don't give your ferret baths more often than a couple of times a year. Baths will just get them to produce MORE coat oil and thus more stank. They're self-cleaning, just leave them alone and they'll be less oily.
  • Change their litter more often. Poop smells bad. Duh.
  • Clean their bedding more. Bedding should be thrown in the wash every week with hot water and a good detergent. If it comes out of the dryer smelling like hot ferret rear end, it's not clean yet. I like Win detergent, the unscented Win Green variety.
  • Clean their cage. It can get oily and stinky, too. If you can fit it in the shower or have access to a hose outside, you can wash it down with that if it gets a little ripe. You can also wipe it down with a paper towel dampened with vinegar or Nature's Miracle enzymatic cleaner, or spray those things on the cage. (not while a ferret is in it, though)

If you've done all that and you're still having odor problems, or if you need a temporary fix while someone who just cannot possibly smell ferrets ever comes to your house, there are a couple things you can do.

  • Ferret deodorizing/coat conditioning spray. Makes the ferret smell like cucumber melon, but has aloe in it and so is good for them if they have dry skin. Can refresh stinky bedding in between launderings, but doesn't last long.
  • Stuff that absorbs odors - baking soda, coffee grounds, or that volcanic odor absorbing rock stuff - can be put near the cage. Do not rub on ferrets.
  • If you need an air freshener for a short period of time, try to get one in a non-spray form. I like those scented oil candles. They don't seem to bother the ferrets.


...biting!

Ferrets generally bite for one of three reasons:

  • They are playing too hard. Sometimes ferrets, particularly young ones, don't realize that they can't play rough with their mouths with humans like they can with other ferrets.
  • They are scared and trying to defend themselves. If a ferret views a human (or just a hand or a foot) as a threat, it may bite to try to get the scary thing to go away.
  • They are jerks. If the ferret runs up to you, bites, and then runs away, this is probably what's going on.

(tips go here soon)

...pooping outside of the litterbox!

...itching!
Ferrets are generally itchy animals to begin with - they'll often wake up just to scratch. But if your ferret is constantly stopping dead in the middle of eating, playing, or using the litterbox to scratch, or if he or she is scratching so much it's causing injury, there is probably something wrong. Itchiness in ferrets can be caused by a few things, and here they are:

  • Fleas - yup, ferrets get them. Pick your ferret up and ruffle through its fur all over, looking closely for little black bugs. If you see them, your ferret has fleas. Don't just buy whatever at the pet store - you need to consult your vet about this.
  • Ear mites - these are much harder to see than fleas, but much more common. If your ferret is mostly scratching his head, ear mites might be the problem. Look for dark brownish-red earwax. It looks like dried blood, because it has dried blood in it. However, you can't completely confirm or rule out ear mites on your own, so if your ferret seems to have really itchy ears, go to the vet.
  • Dry skin - as a measure to temporarily help dry skin, you can try Eight-in-One "FerretSheen" deodorizing and coat conditioning spray - I don't normally like anything to smell like cucumber melon, but it does have aloe in it and seems to help. However, this problem can have a number of different causes, and the spray doesn't help any of them.
    - Ferrets with a bad diet can definitely have dry skin, but if you're following our feeding instructions, it shouldn't be an issue.
    - If your house has low humidity, that can also make your ferret's skin dry. This is often a problem in winter in places with a forced air (furnace) heating system. A little humidifier near the cage can help a lot.
    - Are you giving your ferret baths? You probably shouldn't. It dries out their skin and coat and makes them overproduce oil to compensate, meaning that whatever smell you were trying to wash away comes back twice as bad. If your ferret gets into something that's messy, but that they would normally have access to, like poop or wet food, just rinse it off with warm water. Only wash your ferret (using a ferret shampoo) if it gets into something that could hurt it if it licked it off.
  • Mast cell tumors - if your ferret is scratching at a single spot, and if that spot is kind of crusty and scabby, it may be a mast cell tumor. They are generally benign but itchy. However, if the ferret is constantly scratching it, the open wound can be dangerous, so talk to your vet about whether s/he feels that this particular tumor on this particular ferret should be removed. If s/he would rather leave it be, there are things you can do to help it itch less and keep the ferret from opening up the wound again, so post and we'll tell you!
  • Adrenal disease - this one is a big one, so see the section on adrenal disease for more information.



...losing its fur!

This is another one with a few possible causes, one of which definitely requires vet intervention, so read carefully. Ferret hair loss can be caused by:

  • Seasonal shedding - ferrets normally shed twice a year, in the spring and the fall, but these times may be really affected by artificial light cycles. If the hair that your ferret is losing is mainly or entirely short, fluffy undercoat, from all over his or her body, while the longer, darker, less fluffy top hairs are staying in (give the fur a little tug to see what is coming out) it is probably a normal seasonal thing. Give a laxative regularly (see other posts) to make sure the hair doesn't form a blockage, wash the bedding more often, and wait. If you want to get the hair out faster, you can brush, gently tug on the hair with your fingertips, or give the ferret a warm bath and gently tug on the hair while the ferret is in the tub. Sometimes the ferret's coat WILL end up kind of patchy and bare, but check back in a couple of weeks and you'll be able to see that there IS new fur there. (Photos of this to be added in Spring 2010 when Laurel blows his winter coat again)
  • Rat tail, or tail alopecia - if your ferret's hair loss is ONLY on the tail, and if the tail has what look like little blackheads on it, it's probably rat tail. Ideas on how to deal with this differ - you can wait it out, and it'll probably go away with the next seasonal shed, or you can try to treat the ferret's tail blackheads by washing the tail regularly with a gentle cleanser.
  • Adrenal disease - this generally causes hair loss on the shoulders and at the base of the tail first, but it can spread to the whole body. In adrenal disease, the hairs that come out are more frequently the long hairs of the top coat rather than the shorter hairs of the undercoat. Read the section on adrenal disease and go to your vet.



... having weird poop!

Ferrets are not animals with a very robust digestive system, so here's a guide to ferret poop and what it means:

  • Brown poop that keeps its shape in the litterbox - normal
  • Brown and liquidy poop - mild to moderate diarrhea
  • Green or greenish yellow liquidy poop - bad diarrhea
  • Black, tar-like poop - blood higher up in the digestive system. Very bad. Vet.
  • Very, very thin poop - partial intestinal blockage. Also very bad. Vet.
  • Seedy-looking poop, kinda like whole grain mustard - food's not being absorbed very well. Try putting the ferret on some nice, bland soft food for a little while.

The following are the causes of diarrhea in ferrets:

  • Stress, sunspots, butterfly flapping wings in China... - sometimes diarrhea has no apparent underlying health cause. Make sure the ferret's not dehydrated, give a little bit of Kaopectate, (see ferret first aid section) and see if it clears up in a day or two IF THE FERRET SEEMS OTHERWISE HEALTHY.
  • Food problems - if you switch a ferret's food too quickly, it can cause diarrhea. If the ferret has problems with the particular protein source used in the food, it can cause diarrhea. If the ferret is getting older and suddenly having trouble tolerating such a high level of protein, it can cause diarrhea. If your ferret is still having diarrhea after following the advice above AND SEEMS OTHERWISE HEALTHY, it could be a food problem. Post! Ask what we think!
  • Actual illness affecting the digestive system, like ECE (green slime disease), lymphoma or something else - if your ferret does NOT seem otherwise healthy, if he or she is dehydrated, or if it has gone on too long to be a random problem and doesn't seem to be a food problem, go to the vet.


... coughing!

Coughing in ferrets can be caused by:

  • Hair in the throat, especially during shedding season - this is so common that I try to give a little bit of FerretLax every time a ferret coughs - a small amount won't hurt if it's another problem, and it'll help catch the hairs if they're there.
  • Inhaling dust or other particles - clean your loving house.
  • Respiratory infection - ferrets get colds and the flu, too. Generally from you. If the ferret is also sneezing and a bit low on energy, this is probably it. However, as long as the ferret is still eating and drinking and not having difficulty breathing, most illnesses can be allowed to run their course without the need for a vet trip.
  • Cardiomyopathy - if the ferret has an enlarged heart, it can press on an area that makes the ferret cough. This generally results in long fits of repeated coughs rather than a couple of coughs at a time. See the cardiomyopathy section, this is a serious problem.
  • Lymphoma - fluid can, in some lymphoma cases, collect in and around the lungs, leading to coughing. See the lymphoma section, this is a serious problem.


...sneezing!

Sneezing is, luckily enough, a symptom NOT generally associated with horrible, horrible problems. Ferrets sneeze when they get into dust or other things that irritate their noses. They also sneeze when they have colds. If your ferret is sneezing a lot, has watery eyes, licks his/her nose a lot, and isn't as active as normal, he or she probably has a cold or something similar. Just like humans, ferrets generally get over their colds without too much trouble. That being said...

  • Make sure the ferret is eating. Sometimes they're reluctant to eat if they can't smell the food, and stuffed-up noses interfere with this. And they need those calories to get better! Try warmed-up (and hence smellier) wet food, or give a little Nutri-cal.
  • Whenever you shower, bring the ferret, some bedding, and a litterbox into the bathroom with you, and just let him/her snooze on the bathroom floor while you're showering. The heat and humidity will help unclog their lungs and nasal passages. It's good to do this a few times a day, so if you live with people who are willing to shower while a ferret's in the bathroom, or if you don't have to pay for your own hot water, you can do this frequently.
  • Do not give the ferret human cold medicine. Don't be stupid.
  • If the ferret seems to have actual difficulty breathing or is totally unwilling to eat, or if he or she doesn't seem to be on the mend within a week, you'll have to go to the vet.

Also, if you have a cage that can be split into two sections, or a separate cage, you may want to consider separating the sick ferret from any other ferrets you have to try to keep the others from catching the cold. Wash your hands in between touching the sick ferret and the healthy ones, too.

...losing weight!

Weight loss can be caused by:

  • Normal seasonal changes - is it spring? Is your ferret currently going through a spring shed, or did s/he do so recently? Before this, was he or she kind of chubby? Sometimes ferrets losing their winter weight will lose a LOT, then sort of rebound back up. If it's spring, and your ferret is shedding its winter coat and becoming MORE active, it's probably not a problem.
  • Not eating - kind of obvious, I know, but sometimes stress, a food change, being bullied by other ferrets, or things like that will make a ferret stop eating for a while. Ferrets that stop eating develop ulcers which, irritatingly enough, make it painful for them to eat. If you push a little bit of your ferret's favorite wet food or another tasty treat into his mouth and he starts grinding his teeth after eating it (a sign of mouth or abdominal pain), he probably has an ulcer. It'll require a vet visit, but it shouldn't break the bank - the cure is a medicine that coats the ulcer and keeps it from hurting, and it'll need to be given a few times a day until the ulcers heal, 15 minutes before you offer the ferret nice delicious wet food. (Or before you force-feed the ferret if it's not willing to eat on its own)
  • Lymphoma or adrenal disease - they are cancers. Cancers can make your ferret eat less, or stop eating. If your ferret's getting unusually thin, with spine and ribs really easy to feel, but is still independently eating small amounts, this is a likely problem. Go to the vet. (Note: ferrets who aren't eating due to one of these problems can then DEVELOP mouth ulcers, so just because your ferret seems to have mouth ulcers doesn't mean he doesn't have lymphoma or adrenal disease)


...grinding its teeth!

This is an easy one. Teeth grinding is a sign of PAIN, usually gastrointestinal pain. This could be caused by a mouth, esophageal, or stomach ulcer, or some other problem within the digestive system. You'll need to take the ferret to the vet, but if it's just an ulcer, the ferret will just need some medicine to coat it until it heals and it shouldn't be too expensive. Whether it's an emergency or not is determined by whether or not the ferret is still eating and pooping ok.

...not as energetic as normal!

A lack of energy CAN be a benign thing, or just a sign of aging, but it can also be an important early warning sign of a number of different major problems. Since their treatments are always cheaper and/or more successful earlier on in the course of the disease, if your ferret lacks energy, you should really keep a close eye out for other signs of illness.

Here's what can cause ferrets to become less energetic:

  • Winter - it's normal for them to be more active in the spring and summer and less active in the fall and winter. They should still be willing and able to play, though - just perhaps not quite as often or for quite as long.
  • Sadness - if a cagemate dies, or if a person they like a lot moves away, ferrets can get depressed. Give lots of extra attention for a few weeks. If it doesn't improve, you'll need to see a vet to rule out other problems.
  • Colds or similar illnesses - if the ferret is sniffling and sneezing and stuffy, it probably has a cold. A lack of energy is normal during this and should go away when the cold does. See "sneezing" for more information on colds.
  • Adrenal disease - see section on that.
  • Insulinoma - see section on that.
  • Cardiomyopathy - see section on that.
  • Lymphoma - see section on that.

...being a jerk to other ferrets!

...not waking up!

Well, you have three basic options here.

  • Your ferret is asleep - Sometimes ferrets are just very sleepy. Try picking your ferret up by the scruff and blowing on its face. This should make your ferret wake up, become alert, and get mildly irritated at you. Let the poor thing go back to sleep.
  • Your ferret is in a coma - Ferrets who have insulinoma can become comatose if their blood sugar drops too low. If your ferret will not wake up, but is still breathing, or will wake up a little bit but won't become alert, it may be having an episode of low blood sugar, even if it hasn't been diagnosed with insulinoma yet. You can quickly raise your ferret's blood sugar by rubbing corn syrup (best), honey (ok) or sugar water/juice/nondiet soda (better than nothing) on its gums, but your ferret will need to eat something high protein as soon as he or she wakes up, or his or her blood sugar is just going to crash again. If this happens and your ferret does NOT have insulinoma, you need to get it to the vet to get medication to prevent this. This kind of low blood sugar crisis is definitely an emergency and you need to respond to it as soon as possible, or the situation will change into...
  • Your ferret is dead - is your ferret cold? Stiff? Not breathing? No detectable heartbeat? Yep. Sorry. If you want to get a necropsy to determine the cause of death (they can be expensive) you should store the ferret in the fridge (not the freezer) until you can get it to a vet. This should be done as soon as possible, though. If you want to bury the ferret or have it cremated, you can put it in the freezer. Warning: this makes getting stuff out of your fridge or freezer kind of depressing.

maplecheese fucked around with this message at Dec 4, 2009 around 04:31

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

(ferret health problems description goes here)

Adrenal disease
What is it?
Symptoms
Treatments

Insulinoma
What is it?
Symptoms
Treatments

Cardiomyopathy
What is it?
Symptoms
Treatments

Lymphoma
What is it?
Symptoms
Treatments

Mast cell tumors

maplecheese fucked around with this message at Dec 2, 2009 around 18:16

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

Here are some ferret vets that people in Pet Island think are good:

USA

GEORGIA

Marietta

Riverview Veterinary Hospital
Dr. Linda Bostick
Dr. B is amazing with ferrets. She really tries to explain everything to you in laymen's terms, and although some people feel like she's a little condescending, she is very thorough and helpful. All of my visits run over. She also gives the rescue an enormous (50%!!) discount, so I guess we're a little biased.

Also, one thing I really like about her, is that she is totally up front and open about if you're being a dumbass. I overheard her talking to a bird owner once whose bird was playing with some dangerous toy and hurt itself, and she basically called the owner an imbecile for giving it to the bird in the first place. Go, Dr. B!

It's nice and central if you live in/around Atlanta. Right at Cumberland Mall.
recommended by: CompactFanny


MASSACHUSETTS

Grafton

Tufts: Foster Hospital for Small Animals
Dr. Joerg Mayer
This is the person who performed Dizzy's adrenalectomy 2 months ago We're new to Tufts, so I don't have much to write, just that Dr. Mayer is a HUGE improvement over our former vet & he totally kicks rear end in general.
recommended by: Little_Dead_Pets


Canada

ONTARIO

Ottawa
Crown Pointe Animal Hospital
Dr. Daren Auger
Dr. Auger is awesome. He's very good at figuring out what is wrong with a ferret QUICKLY (and thus cheaply), he's always up on the latest treatments, and he won't treat you like a horrible person if you're broke and that has to influence what vet care you can afford. And when our ferret had to be put to sleep at the emergency vet, they faxed a thing to him afterward, and he called me to express sympathy. And sent a card.
recommended by: maplecheese


QUEBEC

Montreal
Montreal Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital
Dr. German-guy-whose-name-I-forget-right-now
I don't know this guy anywhere near as well as I know Dr. Auger, but he goes to conferences and stuff about ferrets, seems quite knowledgeable, and likes to talk to informed ferret owners. Also, when a guy with a German accent says "I am going to palpate your abdomen!" in a cutesy talking-to-a-ferret voice, it's pretty funny.
recommended by: maplecheese

maplecheese fucked around with this message at Dec 5, 2009 around 18:22

notsoape
Jul 19, 2009

WWDD?


Hey, I was just thinking the other day about making a thread about working ferrets in the UK but maybe I'll just post it here instead. Consider this a placeholder .

(I'm planning to go rabbiting with my ferret enthusiast buddies next year/see about borrowing a hob for a year maybe, so I'm getting all nerdy about it )

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

notsoape posted:

Hey, I was just thinking the other day about making a thread about working ferrets in the UK but maybe I'll just post it here instead. Consider this a placeholder .

(I'm planning to go rabbiting with my ferret enthusiast buddies next year/see about borrowing a hob for a year maybe, so I'm getting all nerdy about it )

Oh my god, I am so jealous. Please send me one million healthy working baby ferrets so I can love them and cuddle them forever and feed them whole prey and AWWWWWW.

Little_Dead_Pets
Jul 3, 2006



do it, notsoape!

Sweet CupnCakes
Feb 13, 2007

Did you ever walk in a room and forget why you walked in? I think that's how dogs spend their lives.

I wanted to know if we could at least address any specific problems for ferret owners in those places that they are illegal, like california or hawaii or whatever? I am not saying anyone condones that behavior or would recommend that to anyone, but there are people who live in places they are illegal that refuse to give up their pets. If it is something we shouldn't talk about for legal reasons or what not I can completely understand, but I thought I would ask.

also, another interesting topic might be deaf ferrets. I have one and I LOVE them like crazy but maybe talking about why certain ferrets are deaf, how to tell if a ferret is deaf, and do deaf ferrets act any different than other ferrets? Just some information for those that might not know about them. I know I had to do a lot of reasearch when I realized I had a deafie.

a picture of said deafie trying to defy the cage


and bonus pics of cutie little ferrets I own

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

Sweet CupnCakes posted:

I wanted to know if we could at least address any specific problems for ferret owners in those places that they are illegal, like california or hawaii or whatever? I am not saying anyone condones that behavior or would recommend that to anyone, but there are people who live in places they are illegal that refuse to give up their pets. If it is something we shouldn't talk about for legal reasons or what not I can completely understand, but I thought I would ask.

Probably a good idea. Depending on where my boyfriend decides to get his PhD, we might have to move to California or NYC, and we won't be giving up the fuzzballs if that happens. But we WILL be doing careful research and planning to make sure they aren't in danger.

Sweet CupnCakes posted:

also, another interesting topic might be deaf ferrets. I have one and I LOVE them like crazy but maybe talking about why certain ferrets are deaf, how to tell if a ferret is deaf, and do deaf ferrets act any different than other ferrets? Just some information for those that might not know about them. I know I had to do a lot of reasearch when I realized I had a deafie.

Also probably a good idea, though I'm not sure where to fit it in. But if you write it up, it'll go in faster!

Serella
Apr 24, 2008

Is that what you're posting?


notsoape posted:

Hey, I was just thinking the other day about making a thread about working ferrets in the UK but maybe I'll just post it here instead. Consider this a placeholder .

(I'm planning to go rabbiting with my ferret enthusiast buddies next year/see about borrowing a hob for a year maybe, so I'm getting all nerdy about it )

Well, now you've got all us ferret nerds excited.

Sweet CupnCakes
Feb 13, 2007

Did you ever walk in a room and forget why you walked in? I think that's how dogs spend their lives.

Here are some of the things I know about deaf ferrets. Please feel free to chime in if something doesn't sound right.

A syndrome known as Waardenburg syndrome is most often the cause of deafness in ferrets. It is linked with a lot of the same genetics that cause white markings like bibs, all white ferrets, or a stripe of white on the head. I don't know all the ins and outs of the syndrome but this is what I remember reading when I suspected a problem with my ferret Lucy.

Ways to tell if your ferret is deaf...
Ferrets have the attention span of a two year old on meth. It can sometimes be hard to diagnose that a ferret is deaf. I know when I talk near my ferret's cage they will start to look around and hope I am going to let them out. I could go to the cage and talk and make kissy noises and Lucy wouldn't even stir. You can try sneaking up on them and banging something loud or yelling or squeeling at them to see if they turn around. Lucy also does what I like to call Death Sleep. She is so deep in sleep that I can pick her up and move her around or wiggle her and she doesn't move or open her eyes. I believe all ferrets are capable of this sort of sleep (and it will scare you to DEATH the first time it happens. I thought Lucy was dead), but I have heard that deaf ferrets more commonly get into this strange sleep.

Another fun characteristic of deaf ferrets is that they are commonly much more vocal than other ferrets. Lucy will scream at everyone. She can't hear herself so she has no idea how loud she is being. It is very funny but when I first had her I thought she was being mutilated under the couch by one of my other ferrets she was screaming so much. Nope, she was just being her deaf little self.

Deaf ferrets sometimes have behavior problems. I know they can be more prone to biting. I got Lucy from a woman who bought her at a pet store for her three year old son. Lucy bit him all the time and so they gave her up. I think it has to do with the fact she is easily startled and her first instinct was to bite. I was able to train her out of it but it is not an uncommon story with deaf ferrets so far as I have heard.

I don't know if it is the case with every deaf ferret but I know with Lucy she is just the most interesting ferret I have ever owned. She is highly energetic, spazzy, and play bitey. She is alpha over anyone and everyone.

I am sure there is a lot of information I am leaving out. I am not the most articulate person ever so feel free to change things or reword things if they don't make sense.

Meow Cadet
May 2, 2007


friendship is magic
in a pony paradise
don't you judge me

Back before I saw my Cat-Only vet, I saw a general practitioner vet out here in California. I asked about ferrets, and he said they see ferrets all the time, know how to treat them, and that it wasn't the job of a veterinarian to police the laws of the state. Just throwing that out there.

Alterian
Jan 28, 2003

THIRTEEN!

Sweet CupnCakes posted:

Lucy also does what I like to call Death Sleep. She is so deep in sleep that I can pick her up and move her around or wiggle her and she doesn't move or open her eyes. I believe all ferrets are capable of this sort of sleep (and it will scare you to DEATH the first time it happens. I thought Lucy was dead), but I have heard that deaf ferrets more commonly get into this strange sleep.

I'm new to ferrets and one of my ferrets did this recently and I thought she was dead and I was about to get really upset until she woke up after a little jostling.

Serella
Apr 24, 2008

Is that what you're posting?


Alterian posted:

I'm new to ferrets and one of my ferrets did this recently and I thought she was dead and I was about to get really upset until she woke up after a little jostling.

After a while, you get used to it and then it's just fun to see what you can do with them before they wake up. Also, a good way to get non-blurry pictures, if you don't mind your ferret looking a bit dead in the pictures.

Hazzardus
Jan 11, 2009

by Tiny Fistpump


If you had to pick one, are ferrets more like dogs or cats?

bamzilla
Jan 13, 2005

All butt since 2012.


Hazzardus posted:

If you had to pick one, are ferrets more like dogs or cats?

A forever kitten.

Serella
Apr 24, 2008

Is that what you're posting?


bamzilla posted:

A forever kitten.

This is exactly it. Small, gets into everything, poo poo that comes from the bowels of hell, and super playful and energetic.

Cockmaster
Feb 24, 2002


maplecheese posted:

Probably a good idea. Depending on where my boyfriend decides to get his PhD, we might have to move to California or NYC, and we won't be giving up the fuzzballs if that happens. But we WILL be doing careful research and planning to make sure they aren't in danger.

With NYC you'd at least have the option of commuting, which would render the whole matter moot. Get a folding bike and a place near a train station, and you may even come out ahead with living expenses.

Alterian
Jan 28, 2003

THIRTEEN!

An update so far: They seem to have really taken to the litter boxes. There hasn't been any accidents in the cage. I need to find another sacrificial shirt and I can put their last shelf in. I got a bird ladder and hooked it on the bottom of the cage so they can get in and out of it themselves when I open the bottom door. There was only one accident so far out of the cage, but it was on our tile floor so it wasn't that big of a deal.

They love the wellness CORE and are completely switched over now. They're a lot better about not kicking it all over the place. I'm thinking about getting a second hammock and finding another set of sacrificial shirts and switching them out mid week and doing a larger load of ferret laundry on the weekends instead of washing what I have now twice a week since its a bit of a waste.

I might make a ferret video sometime soon.

Sweet CupnCakes
Feb 13, 2007

Did you ever walk in a room and forget why you walked in? I think that's how dogs spend their lives.

just an idea alterian, or anyone for that matter, do you know how to sew at all? i make all my ferret bedding and hammocks. wal-mart sells super duper cheap fabric and you can make quite a few things out of a couple yards of fabric for cheaper then buying one hammock at petco. it didnt take long to figure out a sewing machine for me either. i have made hanging circular tubes for them to sleep in, blankets, hammocks, and even a triangle hanging house or two.

Sweet CupnCakes
Feb 13, 2007

Did you ever walk in a room and forget why you walked in? I think that's how dogs spend their lives.

Serella posted:

After a while, you get used to it and then it's just fun to see what you can do with them before they wake up. Also, a good way to get non-blurry pictures, if you don't mind your ferret looking a bit dead in the pictures.

i totally know what you are saying. now i love finding Lucy in her death sleep because i can put little clothes on her and when she wakes up she freaks out. its my little passive aggressive way of getting her back for stealing all my shoes and shoving them under furniture

Alterian
Jan 28, 2003

THIRTEEN!

Sweet CupnCakes posted:

just an idea alterian, or anyone for that matter, do you know how to sew at all? i make all my ferret bedding and hammocks. wal-mart sells super duper cheap fabric and you can make quite a few things out of a couple yards of fabric for cheaper then buying one hammock at petco. it didnt take long to figure out a sewing machine for me either. i have made hanging circular tubes for them to sleep in, blankets, hammocks, and even a triangle hanging house or two.

That's actually a good idea. I ~^*finally*^~ have a place to put my sewing machine after getting it almost 4 years ago. I'm going to go to the thrift store this weekend for unrelated things and I might see if I can get some cheap fabric/clothes there and if not hit up a fabric store.

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

Alterian posted:

I'm new to ferrets and one of my ferrets did this recently and I thought she was dead and I was about to get really upset until she woke up after a little jostling.

I recently had to make the "asleep or dead" determination. The answer was "dead". My advice is to touch your ferrets a lot while they're asleep - get used to feeling for their heartbeats and breathing. That makes it easier to figure out what's going on.

In other news, Laurel has caught my boyfriend's cold. Poor guy is all sniffly and sneezy. I feel so bad for him! I'm going to take him into the bathroom and run the shower on hot for a while to try to decongest him.

Serella
Apr 24, 2008

Is that what you're posting?


Sweet CupnCakes posted:

i totally know what you are saying. now i love finding Lucy in her death sleep because i can put little clothes on her and when she wakes up she freaks out. its my little passive aggressive way of getting her back for stealing all my shoes and shoving them under furniture

Ha, I am so doing this next time!


maplecheese posted:

I recently had to make the "asleep or dead" determination. The answer was "dead". My advice is to touch your ferrets a lot while they're asleep - get used to feeling for their heartbeats and breathing. That makes it easier to figure out what's going on.

Sorry to hear that. Been there, done that, unfortunately. Reached into the cage to get her to "wake up, miss lady!" Cold as a stone.

Then there's determining if it's just a dead sleep, or something very serious. Twice I found my girl in a nearly-comatose state, and the first time it took me a while to figure out she needed to go to the e-vet because I had no idea what was going on.

Oh, I bet we're scaring off potential ferret owners. After all, this is only the first page!

ElectricSheep
Jan 14, 2006


maplecheese posted:

I recently had to make the "asleep or dead" determination. The answer was "dead". My advice is to touch your ferrets a lot while they're asleep - get used to feeling for their heartbeats and breathing. That makes it easier to figure out what's going on.

In other news, Laurel has caught my boyfriend's cold. Poor guy is all sniffly and sneezy. I feel so bad for him! I'm going to take him into the bathroom and run the shower on hot for a while to try to decongest him.

Our ferret is almost ten months old now and there's not a chance in hell I could even poke her (or breathe on her, it seems) without her waking up. Maybe she's just more sensitive to that kind of thing because she's deaf.

She's also bored as hell because my wife and I are both sick and we don't want to pass it along to her so her playtime's been minimal - I feel pretty guilty. Then I remember we spoil the poo poo out of her and don't feel as bad.

This is also a good time to figure out how to keep her out of the Christmas tree water. We live in a small place and the only other area she can run around in is our bedroom, which is smaller than the living room she's used to. Any ideas/suggestions/past tips for ferret-proofing a tree? I was thinking of cutting out an appropriate circular length of screen and duct-taping it to the tree stand so that I could pour water through and she couldn't drink it.

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

Serella posted:

Sorry to hear that. Been there, done that, unfortunately. Reached into the cage to get her to "wake up, miss lady!" Cold as a stone.

We have had 3 ferrets die. One was put down at the e-vet's, one we found in full rigor mortis (ugh, that sucked) and one I found literally about 30 seconds after he had probably died. The rigor mortis one was really easy to tell, of course, but it took a while to realize the other one was really dead. If I'd been rationally evaluating it, it wouldn't have, but I was kind of freaking out.

Serella posted:

Then there's determining if it's just a dead sleep, or something very serious. Twice I found my girl in a nearly-comatose state, and the first time it took me a while to figure out she needed to go to the e-vet because I had no idea what was going on.

Yeah... do you have any tips on determining whether a ferret is comatose or just really asleep? I should put that in one of the posts. When I'm waking mine up, I sometimes blow on their faces. It bugs them a lot, more than moving their bodies around, and they twitch and wiggle a bunch. I'm assuming they wouldn't do that if they were in a coma.

Serella posted:

Oh, I bet we're scaring off potential ferret owners. After all, this is only the first page!

Oh god, I know. Come back you guys! They usually aren't dead!

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

ElectricSheep posted:

This is also a good time to figure out how to keep her out of the Christmas tree water. We live in a small place and the only other area she can run around in is our bedroom, which is smaller than the living room she's used to. Any ideas/suggestions/past tips for ferret-proofing a tree? I was thinking of cutting out an appropriate circular length of screen and duct-taping it to the tree stand so that I could pour water through and she couldn't drink it.

Yeah, the screen thing sounds like a good idea. You can also try to make the water taste bad, maybe by mixing some hot sauce into it. I don't think trees are bothered by hot sauce, right?

ElectricSheep
Jan 14, 2006


maplecheese posted:

Yeah, the screen thing sounds like a good idea. You can also try to make the water taste bad, maybe by mixing some hot sauce into it. I don't think trees are bothered by hot sauce, right?

Dunno, but she made a beeline for it as soon as I got it home and put water in it. While I was extricating myself from the bottom of the tree, she dunked her whole head in several times and drank a bit.

I pulled her away, figuring it wasn't good for her and did some researching - apparently some of the preservatives used on Christmas trees can circulate into the water and be harmful, if not potentially fatal. So I sweated bullets for a bit but apparently little miss metabolism is just fine 48 hours later, probably because it was brand-new water and the stuff hadn't circulated yet. I think that's why I'll go for the physical blockage rather than the "taste bad" approach (I actually was thinking about putting Bitter Apple in the tree water before I read up about it).

SUPER HASSLER
Jan 31, 2005

Chin up, pup!
Those plucky lads in the Houston Altuves'll lick 'em next time!

So, here is Mugi, the new addition.


The rescue thought she was 8 or so months but she's really just a kit still. I am having a lot of fun feeding her as many different types of meat and prey as I can find (she stole a piece of bratwurst off my dinner plate while I was distracted by the phone), but I'm not having so much fun litter training a ferret who has no idea whatsoever what it is. I haven't experienced that part of kit ownership in a while so I sort of forgot about it.

Sadly a lot of my ferrets have passed away over the past few months (one lymphoma, two adrenal) and so right now it's just her and Raku...who I guess I promised a post about, so I'll do that later.

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

Ok, I want to put in stuff about choosing a vet. If you really like your vet, please post his or her info in the following format:

Country
State/province/region/Swiss canton/whatever
City
Clinic name
Vet
Comments

Serella
Apr 24, 2008

Is that what you're posting?


maplecheese posted:

Yeah... do you have any tips on determining whether a ferret is comatose or just really asleep? I should put that in one of the posts. When I'm waking mine up, I sometimes blow on their faces. It bugs them a lot, more than moving their bodies around, and they twitch and wiggle a bunch. I'm assuming they wouldn't do that if they were in a coma.

Well, what I dealt with wasn't exactly comatose. It was that super sluggishness that I have come to associate with "I am really, really sick and probably going to die if you don't do something about it." Probably not far from losing consciousness or dying. Very scary realize she was so badly off that she couldn't or didn't want to move.

However, what I did notice was that even if she was too weak to hold up her head and it lolled when I picked her up, she still responded to Ferretone and would lap it up if I put the bottle in front of her nose. I don't think this work in every case, especially if the ferret had lost consciousness, but I know that if she had been just very sleepy, she would have tried to follow the bottle when I took it away.

As for dead sleep, I've only had one that's done it, and she always wakes up within a minute after me messing with her a bit. I guess the key is just really knowing your ferret.


Shermy, is Raku the polecat hybrid you mentioned before? Because if so, I can't wait for that post.

maplecheese
Oct 31, 2006
Disturbingly delicious.

Serella posted:

Well, what I dealt with wasn't exactly comatose. It was that super sluggishness that I have come to associate with "I am really, really sick and probably going to die if you don't do something about it." Probably not far from losing consciousness or dying. Very scary realize she was so badly off that she couldn't or didn't want to move.

However, what I did notice was that even if she was too weak to hold up her head and it lolled when I picked her up, she still responded to Ferretone and would lap it up if I put the bottle in front of her nose. I don't think this work in every case, especially if the ferret had lost consciousness, but I know that if she had been just very sleepy, she would have tried to follow the bottle when I took it away.

Poor little thing. What was wrong with her?

Serella
Apr 24, 2008

Is that what you're posting?


maplecheese posted:

Poor little thing. What was wrong with her?

She was in shock, twice. The first time I never figured out what she managed to do to herself, and the second time was my fault for trying to close a door while holding her back with my foot. She managed to squirm away and caught her neck in the closing door. She walked away from it just fine, but I found her in rough shape a couple of hours later. I thought she was going to die that time, even after the first night at the vet's, it was really rough.

No problems since then, especially as I am much better at ferret-proofing and have rules for when the ferrets are out of the cage. The first rule is "no closing doors unless they are both firmly contained." It'll be my two year ferretversary in a few months, and I can hardly remember how things used to be before I got them.

CompactFanny
Oct 1, 2008



My ferret vet

Country: USA
State: Georgia
City: Marietta
Clinic name: Riverview Veterinary Hospital
Vet: Dr. Linda Bostick
Comments:
Dr. B is amazing with ferrets. She really tries to explain everything to you in laymen's terms, and although some people feel like she's a little condescending, she is very thorough and helpful. All of my visits run over. She also gives the rescue an enormous (50%!!) discount, so I guess we're a little biased.

Also, one thing I really like about her, is that she is totally up front and open about if you're being a dumbass. I overheard her talking to a bird owner once whose bird was playing with some dangerous toy and hurt itself, and she basically called the owner an imbecile for giving it to the bird in the first place. Go, Dr. B!

It's nice and central if you live in/around Atlanta. Right at Cumberland Mall.

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Little_Dead_Pets
Jul 3, 2006



Country: USA
State: Massachusetts
City: Grafton
Clinic: Tufts: Foster Hospital for Small Animals
Vet: Dr. Joerg Mayer

Comments: This is the person who performed Dizzy's adrenalectomy 2 months ago We're new to Tufts, so I don't have much to write, just that Dr. Mayer is a HUGE improvement over our former vet & he totally kicks rear end in general.

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