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I put up the new 6mm buildings on my homepage, here they are painted: Now I have to figure out what to make next.
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Feb 12, 2012 16:04
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Colonial Air Force posted:You put up pictures of painted models on your miniatures website? I know. I am the worst historical retailer. Stronghold Miniatures sent me a decapitated horse head the last week.
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Feb 12, 2012 16:21
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Finally got around to basing my 6mm samurai. I've painted two opposing DBA armies, or roughly half a FoG army. It would be nice to get two big opposing armies and play some historical battles, as Killer Katanas 2 has some well researched scenarios. Colour overload!  6mm is the go to scale to get an army feel:  Examples of banners:  Mounted generals:   And finally, some camps, starting with the Takeda army:  And Tokugawa army: 
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Feb 15, 2012 20:50
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Numlock posted:God-dam that makes me wish people played DBA around here. You and me both.  Yes. The good thing with DBA is that everything is very generic. The bad thing with DBA is that everything is very generic. A swordman is a swordman, no matter if it is a samurai or a Roman legionnaire. An ashigaru spearman is the same as a Spartan hoplite. There are some match-ups that are very difficult, like a knightly order against Gauls (the Gauls will die), but it is more that some armies have fewer options or that some unit types are stronger against other. In this example, Knight types are strong against Warbands, and the Gallic armies usually consists mostly of Warbands. But it has less to do with periods than specific army lists. There are Biblical armies that would be favourites against most comers. In the end it matters little as DBA is about rolling more sixes than your opponent.  The Samurai armies are not the strongest, but decent, with some archers, spearmen, swordmen and cavalry. Usually you want some variation, as several unit times are hard counters to other types. I think the Romans would be favourites to take them out though, as swordsmen are good against spearmen. Historical match-ups are usually more fun, if only because the theme is so much stronger. But some historical match-ups are hilariously bad. The previously mentioned Gauls get hosed by Romans 9 times out of 10, for example. I'd usually prefer to play my Knights Hospitallers against Republican Rome than my Gauls, as it would be a more even match-up. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Feb 15, 2012 |
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Feb 15, 2012 22:16
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mllaneza posted:The lists are pretty much only balanced against the ones they list as opponents. That said, go for it. Come to think of it, Romans v Samurai would be blades vs blades and those are usually pretty good matchups. Post-Mongol Samurai: 1x3Cv or 4Bd(Gen), 1x3Cv, 5x4Bd, 1x3Sp, 4x5Wb or 4x7Hd or 4x3Sp Choose the 4x7Hd and weep as your army gets torn apart by dumbfounded Romans.
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Feb 15, 2012 22:22
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KSAF Staff Report posted:These are great. They really look like, well, houses and shops in 6mm. I honestly can't think of what praise would be better. Thanks! Actually, I've already done a shrine and some other houses, you can see them on muraminiatures.com. I haven't done any bridges yet though, and that's actually a really good idea as it is a common thing to put on a battlefield. I've thought about doing torii too, but I can't really do it with the simple silicone molding procedure that I use at the moment. A torii in this scale would be much better done in metal actually, too bad there's no companies (at all!) manufacturing metal miniatures here in Sweden, or I could have "leased" some equipment and knowledge.
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Feb 16, 2012 07:14
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KSAF Staff Report posted:I had forgotten your URL, so thanks for putting that up. Thanks for the feedback, it's really great to hear some detailed information from a visitor. It's very helpful. The reviews and tutorials are indeed a way to get more visitors and get the homepage "out there", as the number of samurai 6mm gamers out there is very small. If I ever start making 15mm or 28mm stuff it will be very helpful to be a bit established in the community. As for destroyed terrain, well, I've actually done that myself with some of the miscasts! The miscasts tends to ruin the roofs, making them look all burned out. Maybe I could do a temporary offer now and then and sell off some ruined stock. I like the idea of ruined walls, it should work easily with the modular system. I have a smaller shrine that I didn't put on the list yet. Mostly because I'm thinking of making some other smaller temple-themed item, and make a combined pack. You can see it here together with some wells that I also haven't put on the list yet:  I'm happy that you like the desing of the website. Since atrocious web design in the historical hobby is my personal pet peeve, it would be very sanctimonious to rant about it for years and then make a crappy site. It's based on a template of a friend though, so sometimes the stuff I do in the backoffice doesn't translate perfectly to the website. A lot of the old news posts seem to behave strange, for one thing, and the order of the products get messed up a bit too. If I keep adding items to the 6mm samurai range I'll probably have to end up chopping it up a bit, just like you mention.
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Feb 16, 2012 19:57
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Honey Badger posted:So what are the big companies for modern minis? I've tried looking around and I'm not familiar with all the different scales so I can't tell if a particular miniature is ugly because it's a bad sculpt or because its the size of a pencil eraser. I'm looking for some guys I can paint a fair amount of detail on, but I don't want them to be too big because then I spend way too much time on each piece sperging out about shading and perfect lines and poo poo (which is why I could never finish a WH40k army). Sounds like either 1/72 (which is roughly 20mm, or "those small plastic dudes") or 15mm for you. Some details, but still quick to paint.
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Feb 17, 2012 23:01
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Yes, the answer is usually to check if anyone around you plays the period that you are interested in, and then. If not, you'll likely have to start with painting up two sides yourself to begin with, or find someone else who is also keen on picking up the period. Then you decide on scale etc.. So you end up like me, with 1/1200, 6mm, 15mm, 1/144 and 28mm, depending on the game. But 1/72 seems quite popular for Ambush Alley in general.
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Feb 21, 2012 21:04
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Yes, I've read some positive reports from people trying Black Powder in 6mm, and I plan to try it when my opponent finally gets his dissertation finished and becomes an unemployed academic instead of a busy academic. We have two 6mm French and British armies based for Lasalle, so it should be easy enough to use for Black Powder as well. Example: http://ncc1717.wordpress.com/category/miniature-wargames/6mm-miniatures/
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Feb 29, 2012 19:00
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I mean, 28mm looks great and all, but for Napoleonics I'm set with 6mm. I finished most of the Baccus starting army I got, and I can not imagine the time it woud have taken to paint the same amount of miniatures in 28mm. In 6mm though, less than a month of on and off painting:
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Feb 29, 2012 20:07
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Solving the problem of no available 6mm Choson Koreans by sculpting my own range: Horrible horrible idea, or awesome horrible idea?
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Mar 15, 2012 21:27
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Arquinsiel posted:Get pics up and we'll let you know. I got started yesterday, but don't expect anything too soon. I haven't sculpted entire miniatures before, much less in 6mm, but I got inspired by this guy: https://www.baccus6mm.com/forum/index.php?topic=1070.0 Who went from no specific experience to making a 6mm Ottoman Turks range for Baccus, since no-one else were going to do it. It took like one and a half year though, so I better get started. Using the Killer Katanas 2 sourcebook for some 6mm Korean invasion scenarios would be awesome, but there's simply no Koreans out there in 6mm.
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Mar 16, 2012 06:17
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Historical oaths are the best oaths. I added a tiny tiny temple to my range. Still haven't decided what it should cost though since it is very small, but at the same time much more of a pain in the rear end to cast than I thought due to the overhang.  
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Mar 18, 2012 21:04
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Serotonin posted:You tried selling these to Baccus? We've discussed it earlier. I think I'd need some kind of packaging first, and the margins are small enough right now that shipping them to the UK and then giving a cut to Baccus would be tricky. Timecast were interested as well, actually. If things go well this spring at work I might be able to invest in some proper gear for casting, which would mean that the amounts of miscasts should go down. Then I would be more confident with selling them through a retailer.
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Mar 18, 2012 23:10
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outlier posted:Not so much a modelling/painting question as a "where do I get these figures"? Browsing Plastic Soldier Review, there seems to be a lack of those options. I guess you'd have to either convert them or skip them, as 20mm can be tricky to find when it comes to some of the more unusual forces. http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/PeriodList.aspx?period=6
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Mar 23, 2012 18:19
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There is no excuse to not have pictures up on your website of your products in the year 2012. No excuse.
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Mar 23, 2012 19:28
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Also was not a fan of having to email my order and wait to be sent a paypal invoice. Shopping carts are popular in online stores, in space year 2012 I can understand someone not figuring out the paypal shopping cart (though even I managed that). I can not understand someone not being able to find a single person with a digital camera or a mobile phone that is less than 5 years old, who can take a picture of your product and put it online. That is just weird and defeats the purpose of, you know, having a website.
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Mar 23, 2012 21:51
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Got two boxes of Wargames Factory ashigaru, and as I put the spearmen together I'm actually a bit impressed. It seems like a lot of my reluctance has been because of people putting them together in a bad way or from the (horrible) CGI box art, when it's actually a nice kit. Some of the faces are not perfect, but I'll see what I can do in the painting stage. Otherwise, I'm a lot happier with them than I thought I would be.
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Mar 31, 2012 20:05
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Chance II posted:So historical dudes, where should I look for a rule set for a 28mm Sengoku Period style of game? From the OP, it looks like DBA is about the level of rule crunch for me but would it cover things like arquebusiers? How flexible is it? I want to be able to run a growing campaign where we are each trying to unite Japan, capturing castles and resources opening up how many and what kind of units we can field. Roughly how many miniatures do you plan to have on the tabletop, and how important is it for you to have a rule system that is geared specifically towards Sengoku period Japan? Do you want to have individual bases, or do you prefer scenic bases with 3-8 miniatures on each? I have a bunch of 28mm samurai and have looked into a few alternatives, so I might be able to help you with some tips at least. If you want a simple rule system you could do a campaign in DBA quite easily. Holding territories could change your army list, like giving you the option to have more swords, to change spears into pikes or have more cavalry. You could even have special territories that gives one unit +1 in combat, or give a special general +1 to choose side. DBA is also scalable, in that you can play your "big games" in Big Battle DBA, which is basically 2 or 3 DBA armies on each side, and that could suit the Sengoku period as you often saw allied clans fight side by side. Here's a homepage of a gaming group that did a DBA campaign in pretty much the same style that you seem to consider. http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/neil_hughes/sengoku%20jidai.htm They used a bunch of house rules to make the game more suitable to the period, as DBA classically cuts off at 1500. If you want a simple game that is over in an hour, and that is friendly to people who are not already into historical gaming, I'd say you should keep looking at DBA. You can always switch to the more detailed games later, like Battles in the Age of War or Killer Katanas. I've never seen samurai DBA in 28mm, so I don't know how it would look. However, it should be quite cheap. A box of plastic Ashigaru from Wargames Factory should cover the spear elements for two armies!
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Apr 6, 2012 08:54
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Anyone here with experience from Command and Colours or Memoir 44? I'm curious, as Zvezda are releasing a samurai version: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1281190/samurai-battles It looks like a really good option to drag the boardgame players at the club into wargaming.
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Apr 6, 2012 18:24
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The Dark Project posted:lilljonas: From a page back or so... Sanada Nobutsuna, who was one of Takeda's great generals, was reported to carry green banners. However, he is depicted in screens as having the Sanada mon of six coins on his banners, not "forest". While green is uncommon in samurai heraldry, it is not unheard of. Ishikawa Tadafusa also used green, for example. However, my research points to the banner being just one banner with the text on it, rather than several banners as depicted in Kagemusha. Here is the banner:  The text, a quote from Sun Tzu's The Art of War, is written from top right to bottom left, reading: 故其疾如風，其徐如林 Let your rapidity be that of the wind, your compactness that of the forest. 侵掠如火，不動如山 In raiding and plundering be like fire, be immovable like a mountain. EDIT: Here's a comparison betwen Black Hat, The Assault Group, Wargames Factory and Perry Miniatures.  My initial reaction is that the WF one is a bit slimmer and more realistic in proportions, but that I would not hesitate to mix all of them in the same army. As you can see I'm not using the metal pikes that are visible on the Perry Miniatures mini, as I want to see how well the plastics survive. I can always replace the plastics with metal if (when?) they get bent and broken. In general, if you have questions about heraldry and such, the first thing to do is check The Samurai Archives: http://www.forums.samurai-archives.com/viewforum.php?f=2&sid=2f3893ed94a5e41c7d2c601175bec2c7 Especially the thread made by Evalerio, because that is one amazing dude who combines painting skills with good research. His thread on heraldry covers a ton of important samurai and I'm looking forward to the book that he keeps promising to print. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Apr 6, 2012 |
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Apr 6, 2012 20:37
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The Dark Project posted:Thanks lilljonas, you rock No problem. I haven't added to the Warseer thread since the mods there threw a hissy fit over me posting the 6mm houses that I also sell. Little did I know that you have to pay Warseer to be a sponsor if you want to post anything that you model that might be for sale at some other website. Instead, I made my own homepage, https://www.muraminiatures.com though I haven't been that good at posting stuff on it. I plan to put more reviews and size comparison shots between the various ranges I have, so that could be a good tip for when you start to collect your army.
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Apr 7, 2012 19:40
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All this talk of SAGA made me check the Gripping Beast homepage, and now I want a Jomsviking warband.
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Apr 18, 2012 18:17
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Serotonin posted:In Salute news I'm having breakfast with the Perry twins! Sooo jeallous! Tell them to stop caring so much about that obscure Napoleonic period, and make some plastic mounted samurai already!
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Apr 21, 2012 08:11
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Hellbeard posted:HOORAY! I "read" (skimmed) the entire thread. Fascinating. I just recently bought the FoW paperback rule book (I'm careful not to open it fully) and tomorrow I'm receiving my Force on Force rule book! Haha, welcome to the world of historicals, where people under 50, weighing less than 100 kg, and with a basic computer literacy is a weird anomaly. Back when they started, all you needed was a tiny printed catalogue of item codes, and by golly that should be enough for you whippersnappers as well. There's a few sites that gets it right, but for each of them there's ten Stronghold Miniatures. Anyway, today was a DBA day for the first time in over a year. DBA is awesome in many ways. We could sit down, three people, two of us without a game in a year and the third one a complete beginner. In around three hours we had caught up with the rules, taught them to the third guy, and played four complete games. I even got my first game with my Mongol Conquest army, which I bought as a joke, and only lost 3-4. It could have turned to my advantage if he hadn't rolled like a king for his number of actions each turn, as my three pronged assault of pillow-fisted light cavalry caused the Carthaginian battle line to spread out in all directions. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 19:12 on May 6, 2012 |
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May 6, 2012 19:08
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To celebrate my Mongols, here's some pics. Unfortunately they are of the ugly, mostly mono-pose Essex kind, but they were cheap I tell you. Cheap!   In addition, I started to sculpt some 15mm buildings, as I'm happy to receive a single order of 6mm buildings every second month or so. Hopefully these will be more warmly received, but they take a lot longer to sculpt. WIP:   
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May 6, 2012 20:09
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Serotonin posted:Theres lots of historical and geographical reasons why many miniature makers are behind the times. Most of the guys with companies etc are hobbyists, even bigger sites like Peter Pig and Pendraken are run by people who have other day jobs (Dave from Pendraken is a college lecturer for example) so they arent devoting all their energies into doing this. Outside of the very big companies who all tend not to be historical theres not a huge profit in making miniatures. Or selling rules for that matter. My counter-argument to this is that people without the internet skills and/or time to maintain a proper website with pictures probably have a son/daughter, nephew/niece, or random kid down the street who could snap a somewhat ok picture with a smartphone and upload it. Knowing me as a teenager, I was prepared to some pretty monotonous tasks for peanuts, because you're a teenager and it would beat the other lovely side jobs you can get at that age. So it would take weeks to do it? Give it to your co-workers son as a summer job, you're likely to make the cost back in increased sales. I truly believe that it is more of a mindset than sound business plans that keep these manufacturers from having a good online presence.
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May 7, 2012 15:06
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Serotonin posted:Maybe they aint big on exploitation of child labour? Now that's a bit of a strawman. I think my point stands that there's easy ways to get pics of your producs online if you care about it. Pretty much every other retail market in the world manages, so it is kind of baffling that this one is so lacking even in 2012. To be honest, part of my bitching is because I live outside the UK and their rotating caravan of shopping shows. I can't get the kind of first hand shopping experience where you see the actual goods. So while it works great for the UK scene, it unfortunately keeps the rest of the world outside. These companies survive, of course, since the UK is such a large part of the historical market. It just kind of sucks that they don't think that the rest of the world deserves any service. E: I should also add that one common worry among historical gamers, that the hobby will gradually die out because of a lack of new blood, is not helped if you don't make it accessible to people who are used to having information available online. Faced with not only the problem of finding the right scale, the right period, and the right rules to get started, your average 20 year old gamer is probably a little more likely to say "gently caress this" and go buy some Space Marines from a company that provides inspirational pictures of well painted products. Sure, it works for the people who already have a basement full of Minifigs or whatever, but it's bad for attracting new people. I can only speak for myself, but after visiting a website with actual pictures (say, Baccus, Perry Miniatures, even Old Glory 15mm with their unpainted lead pictures) I'm super stoked about pretty much any period or scale. But with websites without pictures I'm quite hesitant, even when they're pretty much the only company making an army and scale that I'm into. Edit again: I'm sorry if my posts seem a bit antagonistic in this issue, it is not my intention. I'm merely trying to get across my view that if we want more people to pick up the historical gaming hobby, we should all work on being as accessible as possible. This means having gaming nights at your club where you teach beginners, it means posting awesome pictures of nicely painted armies, it means promoting fun games and not scaring people away by being horrible sperglords about minute details of ACW equipment. But it also means that manufacturers should have accessible websites that sell the hobby to the uninitiated. It boils down to the same thing: a shared responsibility to promote the hobby for everyone's mutual benefit. If every company only had those crappy websites, I would never have started. But some ambitious websites (in this case, Corvus Belli for 15mm and Perry Miniatures in 28mm) drew me into the hobby. Now that I'm eternally tainted I'll take the plunge now and then and order from the crappy websites as well, but without the good ones I would not be a customer for any of these companies. tl:dr: crappy websites kill this hobby in the long run, or at least outside the small circle of already initiated, who'll die off anyway in 20-30 years from eating too much curries. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 16:56 on May 7, 2012 |
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May 7, 2012 16:06
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Fair points. While Peter Pig's webdesign was out of date ten years ago, I don't have any beef with them. It is easy to navigate and there's plenty of colour photos of painted miniatures on it. That's enough for me as a consumer to make the decision if I like it or not, and that is really all I ask for. My beef is with pages like Scheltrum. Bless their hearts, they cover several ranges that no-one else, or very few do. That is completely awesome, and I applaud them for it. But am I going to spring £43 + S&H for a 28mm scale ship, when there's not a single photo of any of their ships on the website? Not likely. I don't even demand a picture of every single code, just enough to show the general quality of their wares. I know that it is not easy to be a small miniatures company. I only have one small range, and that alone takes a lot of time and effort for more or less no money. I don't ask for everyone to put up slick, professional websites, but it is so much to ask to take a single photo of your wares? I still don't think so.
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May 7, 2012 18:27
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mllaneza posted:I've always figured they should call up their local high school or college and sign up with the internship or work experience programs and ask for someone with a digital camera and some web design skills. The kids get academic credit and real world experience, the company gets a cheap website. Win-win. For the love of god miniatures companies, your teenaged relatives all have a 5 MP camera in their pocket, TAKE PICTURES OF EVERYTHING. I work in the education sector, and there is a large amount of fledging webdesign students who are prepared to do whatever they can to boost their portfolios. Doing websites for small local companies for free or very low cost is a common way to show that you can actually do commercial websites, not just the artsy-fartsy websites you personally prefer to code. And again, I'm not even asking for that, a snapshot with your camera is still better than nothing.
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May 7, 2012 19:30
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Mr.Booger posted:If someone was looking to get into 15/18mm Napoleonics, what rule-set would be better black power or General De Brigade? Or is there another good set that works well for relative newcomers. Our group is still painting up our 6mm nappys, but we're aiming for Lasalle, and maybe trying Black Powder after that. Really, give 6mm and 10mm a look if you want to get into Napoleonics as it's a cool period for that huge army look.
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May 11, 2012 19:37
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Mr.Booger posted:I was looking at some of them, Pendraken I think, but their site doesn't tell you how many infantry come when you buy them, which turned me off I want to know what I am buying (which is rare in Napoleonics I am finding) Adler Miniatures and Baccus6mm, both have quite good websites for browsing. Baccus has a mostly mono-pose line, which is ok if you like the more toy soldier look. They're also really fast to paint since they are all mostly the same. Adler has more dynamic and "fun" poses, but are a tad bigger and less realistic proportions. Big heads and that. But their cavalry looks real nice, while I think my Baccus cavalry are a tad boring in comparison. I got Baccus6mm for my Brits, and the other clubmate got Adler for his French. I painted my starter army in a month, while he's still stuck on his infantry. But his army will probably look cooler once it is finished. I'm thinking of getting some Adler later on as a separate force, either allies to his French or to my Brits. http://home.clara.net/adlermin/NAPOLEONIC/NAPOLEONICOPENINGPAGE.htm https://www.baccus6mm.com/ This is my small starter army, pre-flocking. It's missing almost half the cavalry and two or three regiments or so from the Baccus £35 starter army (I ran out of spare bases). You won't get this massed army look with 15mm unless you get hundreds of bases. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 20:04 on May 11, 2012 |
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May 11, 2012 19:59
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Oh yes, we roped another sucker at the club into getting some 6mm Preussians. I'm hoping for some Lasalle action within a month or so.
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May 14, 2012 18:03
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Mr.Booger posted:For Napoleonics, how do you deal with no french player? Just do theoretical battles? I'm not a huge history-sperglord, but wondering if you bump into situations where the only two armies you have were allies. Or does someone generally have French hanging around? You can always play "what if" scenarios. No-one will hunt you down for not only playing actual battle re-enactments if that is not what you want to do. And after all, both sides worked hard on trying to pry off allies from each other. In an alternative universe, Austria might have been beaten so much by France during one of the coalitions that they had to yield and become an ally by force. Or Prussia or Britain might even be beaten enough to have to cede Austria as an ally during a peace negotiation. Everything is possible in the chaotic world of 19th century diplomacy.
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May 14, 2012 19:58
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I painted up some of Wargames Factory spear-armed ashigaru for the oath thread. They were actually nicer than I expected, given some of their previous kits. Not as nice as most metal miniatures, but really cheap (25 for $20) and much easier to transport. Metal back banners and pikes are just a pain in the rear end. All in all a good option for a large 28mm samurai army geared toward the latter half of the 16th century.  I painted them up as troops of Kobayakawa, a.k.a. the rear end in a top hat who switched sides during the battle of Sekigahara and pretty much secured the victory for Tokugawa.    Each sprue comes with options for command, so you can potentially make a unit with five flags, fifteen musicians, five swordwielding dudes and only five spearmen. It's a bit messed up that you have less options when it comes to the legs, so your unit is bound to have five dudes sitting down, five dudes charging forward, and fifteen dudes just standing there. The best solution is to just get more boxes (these are compatible with the arquebus/archer box) to form more uniform units.  Size comparison with The Assault Group and Perry Miniatures.
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May 17, 2012 18:52
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Hellbeard posted:These are really nice. The details and proportions seem to be superior to the other two brands. The paint is done very nicely also. Do you collect 6mm, 15mm, 20mm and 32mm Feudal Japanese? I would not go so far as to say that all details are superior, but some are. Some parts like the straps on the armour, the faces and hands of the plastics are not as good as other, metal, brands. Other things like the scabbards are just simply way better in plastic, because you can make them much thinner. General proportions are also more realistic with the plastics, while the multi-part nature of them makes for some wooden poses. But the inherent advantages of plastics make them an interesting option for people collecting entire armies. I'm not deranged enough (yet) to collect samurai in all those scales. I started with 28mm, but found them bothersome to carry back and forth to the club. Back banners, spears and all the other bits kept falling off. I also wanted to try to play with entire armies, so I started collecting 6mm. I also painted the occational 54mm miniature, but not for gaming. However, now that I started making 15mm buildings for casting I guess I'll have to invest in at least a 15mm DBA army. I'm also eyeing the new Command & Colours ruleset for samurai battles, which just happens to come with roughly 20mm plastic miniatures from Zvezda. So if I don't watch myself I might end up with all those scales. It's a hard knock life. E: those laser-cut Western houses are cool as gently caress! lilljonas fucked around with this message at 21:13 on May 20, 2012 |
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May 20, 2012 20:46
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No Pun Intended posted:Apparently Warhammer historical has shut up shop. I thought it was going to happen sooner or later once Rick Priestley left GW. Warhammer Historicals had been on minimum life support for years even at that point. I'm happy to see that Black Powder is doing as well as it does, once he and Jervis could make a historical game that is not completely overshadowed by other games with higher priority within the company.
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May 25, 2012 06:20
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I think the Historical Wargaming Podcast featured War and Conquest in their latest show. I haven't listened to it, so I don't know if it is a crappy podcast or not: http://www.historicalwargames.org/ I just got asked by a customer if I could paint up a DBA army for him. That's roughly 100 15mm samurai, which I think would take a bit of time to paint. I googled around, and the going rate seems to be anything between $1 to £2. Anyone with experience with commission painting who can give some advice?
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May 26, 2012 11:18
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 10:48 |
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I honestly think that 2-3 boxes of Perry/Victrix/whatever per side is enough to get started with Napoleonics. Add a box or two of cavalry and some artillery too, and you have plenty of toys to play around with. Either way it will take a lot of time to paint up so many 28mm miniatures, even just assembling the plastics will take a considerable time if you buy too many of them. Don't fall into the trap of buying ten boxes of line infantry that are doomed to remain unopened in an attic somewhere. Perry's have a French army deal with 4 boxes of infantry, 3 boxes of cavalry, two packs of artillery and some officers. That is the absolutely the biggest sized army I'd start out with (almost 200 miniatures!). If you are several people it's easier though. Have one player paint British infantry, another doing all the artillery pieces etc., until someone gets fed up with the job, and then switch assignments. Painting 200 identical line infantry on your own can easily become a chore. 2-3 boxes of plastic infantry and a box of artillery or cavalry should run you around £60-80, depending on how good you are at resisting buying additional officers and other cool stuff. You can get them cheaper if you use some of the multi-box deals that Perry Miniatures or Victrix have available, or use a discount online store. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jun 10, 2012 |
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Jun 10, 2012 16:58
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