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Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

GH2 officially announced - some interesting features.

- 40 fps mode edit: burst at 4MP
- 1 to 1 pixel digital zoom function
- manual audio levels
- touchscreen focus
- 1080p24 24Mbps avchd now with b frames
- live hdmi output
- variable frame rates of some sort
- zebra

Man_of_Teflon fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Sep 22, 2010

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Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

mr. mephistopheles posted:

So I bought a 7D because I wanted to do video at some point, and I've got a guy who might be interested in paying me to film him doing street magic for a day, but I'd like to get some audio besides the in-cam mic. Right now the most cost effective plan seems to be getting an h4n and using that as the external mic and then using an mp3 player to play 20hz noise to override the auto gain on the 7D and then syncing them.

Wouldn't it be easier to just record on the h4n and then sync it after?

I've never done it but I believe it's just a 2x female mono to 1x male stereo splitter from radioshack or whatever. Then get just connect the mp3 player to one channel and the audio output from the h4n to the other channel and go, removing whichever side is the tone in post.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

AbdominalSnowman posted:

Alright, so I am completely new to film-making and I am looking at DSLR primarily because for the budget I am on ($500-700) for a camera means it is probably my only non-poo poo option. Specifically I am looking at the Nikon D3100. Does anyone have any experience with it? It is a nice camera?

I believe the D3100 doesn't really offer a lot in terms of framerate choices, no manual control, low bitrate, terrible rolling shutter etc. I haven't used one though. The Pentax K-X seems pretty similar for ~$490, just with 720p instead of 1080p (both at 24p), if you're going for as budget as possible.

If you just want to do filmmaking with a DSLR and no photography you might be better off buying a GH1 body on ebay. The GH2 has just started shipping so you could probably score a good deal well within your price range. A GH1 would give you manual control over a lot of things, if you get a body that can be firmware hacked you can get very high bitrates, has the tiltable LCD which is super handy, and best of all they're adaptable to lots of cheap manual lenses so you can use the excellent Canon FD lenses (search for bargain condition lenses <$100, you can cover lots of focal lengths for mad cheap), c-mount, m42, or even really nice and yet not insanely expensive Contax-Yashica mount Zeiss lenses if you decide to run with it.

Or hell if you can stretch your budget to $900 with shipping you can get a GH2 with the kit lens, which is arguably the best video DSLR right now.

AbdominalSnowman posted:

Also, what problems should I be expected to run into with DSLR that I wouldn't with a traditional camera? I've heard there are issues with keeping things in focus, can someone elaborate on this a bit?

Also, is depth of field a problem with this camera? I would like to experiment with deep and shallow DOF but I'v heard a shallow depth is the challenging part to get out of a cheap camera.

These are probably related - it is hard to keep something in focus when the depth of field can be so shallow. The GH1 was probably the first DSLR to really get autofocusing done well (and silent too, with the 14-140mm 'video' lens) and the GH2 is even quicker. Most traditional filmmaking is down with focus pulling using manual lenses though.

AbdominalSnowman posted:

edit: I'm sure this a stupid question, but pardon my camera ignorance. This thing can shoot film in black and white right? Or is that something I need to do in post?

Pretty much any camera should be able to do black and white in the camera. You'll probably be able to make it look better doing it in post, however.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

For anyone wanting to try out video with a DSLR, there's a great deal running on the GH1 now that the GH2 is out:

GH1 with 14-42mm kit lens for $500

It won't be hackable but it's still a pretty cheap way for someone looking to try things out.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

ease posted:

I built a new computer in Sept basically because I realized I can't edit or even adjust photos in light room efficiently. I went with a GTX 470 by evga because premiere cs5s mercury engine supports the CUDA libraries which will let your GPU do some of your processing for supported effects, etc.

How big of a difference does a CUDA card make? I have a average (actually, probably lovely by now) computer and I'm thinking of a minimal upgrade of just a video card if it's a huge difference. Though I see it doesn't help aftereffects, just plugins that support it.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

I finally got comfortable enough with my first camera that I bought a couple months ago to try and put something together. I am a total newbie to filming and editing so any suggestions and advice would be appreciated. I had trouble with the white balance since all the cars/streetlights had different color lights AND because I'm a little bit colorblind. And forgot to set it for the indoor fluorescents. I tried to desaturate the footage and cool it down a bit but some of it was so green or orange it was hard to do much.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0kOlj1Ws5U

It's a collection of footage from the massive blizzard here in Chicago last week that I took after leaving work early (first time the gov. building I work at was closing down in 20+ years!).

Long story short we took a bus over to the lake to try and see the 25 foot waves and ended up wandering unknowingly onto Lake Shore drive which was completely snowed over and abandoned. We only realized we were on it when we stumbled onto a tow truck stuck trying to get away from the car it was trying to tow... and then a couple abandoned cars... and then more cars with people in them, and buses, and plows, all covered with waist deep snow drifts (and this was still fairly early in the night).

There's more about what happened at http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/02/02/chicago-blizzard-stranded_n_817771.html

My camera was all frozen over with ice but still seems to work fine! Again, I'd love to hear feedback.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

Yeah I was using a shoulder rig but still ended up pretty shaky because of the wind. I messed around a bit with trying to stabilize it in AE but the rolling shutter makes it look terribly jittery even after stabilization. I'm curious if mocha could do a better job, though it would be a pain in the rear end because my computer is slow as hell.

The song was Aphex Twin - IZ-US. Thanks for all the comments!

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

That's a function of the resolution of the video (1080p) rather than sensor size, and at that resolution I don't believe so.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

Cross_ posted:

Anybody have a good tutorial about setting up video on the 5d2 ? There's still a lot of outdated material on the web from before the major firmware update. I don't know what pages to trust :ohdear:

Some of the questions I have: what picture style to use? what shutter speeds make sense? how to enable/disable auto-gain.

The one question I know the answer to: for shutter speed, you generally want the shutter to be open 2x the # of frames per second, for the '180 degree shutter'. So if you're shooting 24p, 1/50th is close enough, 60p you want to be doing 1/120th. Higher shutter speeds give you the Saving Private Ryan beach scene effect, lower makes everything blurry and run together.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

I'm a GH2 fanboy but if your priority is video > still photography you should really think about one instead. They're just under $900 with the kit lens at provantage (got my preorder mega early from them with no trouble) and they have a lot of advantages over just about any other DSLR out there for video.

If you're looking for stills > video though, the Canon offerings (or maybe the D7000 if you got the $$$) are definitely better.

I haven't used a nifty 50 for video but I imagine it can't be as much of a pain in the rear end as being stuck with one focal length for a while. I'd get the kit lens and the 1.8.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

I like the GH2 most for the crazy lens adaptability. FD lenses for budget film stuff, C-Y zeiss if you have $$$, OCT-18 or c-mount (which, with the ETC crop mode generally has full coverage!) for some wacky stuff.

The wide angle options do kinda suck though. I'm hoping the 7-14mm will drop from freaking $900 when the new OIS version is released. And I am jealous of the programmable rack focus magic lantern gives, that sounds awesome.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

You can but often (for example, adapting FD to EOS) other systems end up requiring an optical element in the adapter that increases magnification a bit and loses you a stop of light. And is more pricey than a chunk of metal.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

Legdiian posted:

What is a good DSLR for a casual user that just wants to shoot pretty footage with a shallow DOF? I'd like to stay in the sub $1000 range. Am I better off with a Nikon/Canon and just learning to focus it manually? I've been going back and forth with the T3i/D5100/A55.

Maybe look into the GH1?

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

First GH2 hack released, nothing incredibly useful yet but if it ends up being as good as the GH1 hack this could be pretty sweet.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

schmuckfeatures posted:

After Effects is what I'd use for removing camera shake, as well as color correction, but you mentioned that you can't run that. Is there anywhere you might be able to find an old trial version of CS3 or CS4, perhaps? They both had 32-bit support.

All the shake reduction I've tried doing in AE has ended up looking terrible due to rolling shutter issues making the now-still video compress itself vertically all funny. It actually looks BETTER to me shaky most of the time - is there any trick anyone has found to this?

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

schmuckfeatures posted:

I've also spent quite a while looking for a not-too-pricey DSLR rig so I can shoot handheld shots that aren't too shaky. Finally found what I was looking for in a Glanz DSLR shoulder rig, which I'm picking up later this week. At AUD$279 it's actually about a quarter of the cost of every other rig I've looked at, and its results seem to be better than some of the pricier rigs, too.

I have this: http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S

It works surprisingly well, obviously nothing for rails and accessories but it's handy for... dang I guess they raised it to almost $40 (I think mine was $25).

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

daspope posted:

Has anyone played around with a GH2? I've been considering buying a new camera and am pretty impressed by the 176mb hack.

I haven't messed with a hack yet but I've had a GH2 for almost a year now. Nothing pro but a lot of fun with FD lenses...

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

chimheil posted:

And you also need to account for the fact that you have to re-start the camera every 12 minutes. You're better off with a regular video camera if it is unmanned.

The GH2 (stock, not hacked) can record for as long as you have space available, with consecutive 4 gig files. I haven't tested it but AFAIK with the spanning there's no noticable skip.

There's also some good wide angle primes for m4/3; you can get panasonic's 14mm (28mm effective) f2.5 for ~$200, or the nokton 12mm f1.6 manual focus for $500 as soon as it starts showing up in stores (or olympus's 12mm f2.0 for a little under $800 now it looks like).

Man_of_Teflon fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Dec 5, 2011

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

willroc7 posted:

What's the best way to avoid the aliasing and moire you mentioned? Any tips on focusing?

Fanboy advice, but the GH2 will be much better at avoiding aliasing and moire than the Canon DSLRs due to the way it scales the data from the whole sensor down to 1080p. If you haven't invested a lot in Canon gear and are going to be doing mostly video work with your camera, it might be worth switching.

As for focusing, you could try to find how far you have to stop down the lens to get both sides of the court in focus at the same time, and see if there's enough light to work like that.

willroc7 posted:

Would I be best served shooting 1080p24 or 720p24 in the future?

I'm guessing you mean 720p60 - and the answer is it depends what look you're going for. 720p60 will generally look more live action-y and let you slow down stuff, 1024p24 will look more 'cinematic'.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

windwaker posted:

Is the 5Dmk2 still the best DSLR buy below $2k if I'm only interested in video? I'm planning on spending all next summer with no job working on writing and shooting shorts and I've been researching cameras to do this.

If you end up looking for a GH2 I still have all of the video kit I listed in the sale thread a while back: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3125105&pagenumber=107&perpage=40#post404360135. Shoot me a PM if you're interested in any of it!

edit: oops http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3125105&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=108#post404485807 this was the post with pictures.

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Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

To mount FD on EOS requires an adapter with an optical element, which will lose you some quality and increase your crop factor. Not sure about mounting Nikon on EOS.

If you really want to get into video, get a GH2 mirrorless camera that can adapt basically any lens with cheap spacer adapters that don't degrade anything, and has higher video quality to boot (and can be hacked for even higher bitrate video).

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