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sandoz posted:What's that? You want to change gears? Turn off the engine and move the belt over to another set of pulleys! Now that is my style of engineering. I love it and I want one.
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May 13, 2010 17:27
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sandoz posted:What's that? You want to change gears? Turn off the engine and move the belt over to another set of pulleys! Now that's a loving manual transmission! Soul and passion out the wazoo!
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May 13, 2010 18:44
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frozenphil posted:Now that's a loving manual transmission! Soul and passion out the wazoo! Clutch and gearshift, all in one handy lever. When the belt gets worn out, you have to drive around with your foot up on the lever to keep it from slipping.
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May 13, 2010 19:09
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sandoz posted:Clutch and gearshift, all in one handy lever. When the belt gets worn out, you have to drive around with your foot up on the lever to keep it from slipping. My parents had a riding lawnmower that had the brake and clutch mechanically linked to each other. You could hit the clutch independently, but if you braked, the clutch went in automatically. The clutch and gearing was accomplished by a rubber wheel (connected to the driveshaft) mated perpendicularly against the flywheel. Low gear put the rubber wheel near the center of the flywheel, high gear near the outside edge. If you didn't use the detents, you'd have a continuously variable manual transmission. Sorta like this, input shaft at left, output shaft at top code:quadpus fucked around with this message at 02:38 on May 14, 2010 |
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May 14, 2010 02:28
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quadpus posted:
 What brand of riding mower was this? This is wonderful.
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May 14, 2010 12:39
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Was it made by the same people who built norden bomb sights in ww2? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norden_bombsight
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May 14, 2010 17:21
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I think this should go in here: http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeTractorPlans.html
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May 14, 2010 18:23
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sandoz posted:
I wish I could remember, I was trying to see if I could find anything on the web about it. Bucephalus posted:
This one did too, I only drew two for simplicity. Yeah, that musta been what we had. quadpus fucked around with this message at 21:49 on May 14, 2010 |
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May 14, 2010 19:29
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InitialDave posted:I think this should go in here: Awesome, thanks! Edit: along those same lines, Nerobro posted a link to some old (Popular Mechanics?) projects in DIY & Hobbies some time ago, but that thread ("Help me build a scooter", or somesuch) has since disappeared, and I don't have archives. Anyone? E2: I think this is it: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131710 quadpus posted:riding mower Snapper Comets used the rubber drive discs, but I think they had 5 or 6 detents, not just hi/lo. VVV [insert "Your Mom" joke here] Dagen H fucked around with this message at 20:24 on May 14, 2010 |
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May 14, 2010 19:39
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Bucephalus posted:Snapper Comets used the rubber drive discs, but I think they had 5 or 6 detents, not just hi/lo.
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May 14, 2010 19:47
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Content! And pictures! Sorry if this all comes out jumbled and rambling. I'm pretty doped up right now, got some fuckoff cold and sinus thing going on. I race Go-Karts, been doing it off and on for 25 or so years. My dad started back in 1959-1960 or so, so he's been karting as long as there has been karting. I'll have to go and dig up some of my old pics and scan them in. I run a sit-up CIK chassis on long road courses. Some of the tracks I have run on include Heartland Park Topeka (KS,) Miller Motorsports Park (UT,) and Hallett Motor Racing Circuit (OK.) The last couple of years I ran in what is called the TaG class. TaG stands for 'Touch and Go.' All the motors have an on board electric starter which is pretty drat convenient. There are several different motor packages that you can run in the TaG class, and I have run quite a few of them.  Click here for the full 1024x685 image. This is a Leopard engine. 125cc two stroke, reed valve and water cooled. This engine makes about 26hp and you want to rev it to about 13,500 rpm on a long track. On the short (sprint type) tracks, you can run them to 16k+.  Click here for the full 604x453 image. This engine is pretty odd. It's a 250cc four stroke. Twin cylinder SOHC motor. Makes about 28-29hp, gobs and gobs of torque. It has a hard rev limiter that drops spark at 13,500. Over a year of running and refining this package I figured about that to be fast, you just have to keep gearing it higher and higher until your lap times got slower. The bad part is, I couldn't seem to make the drive chains live long enough to finish a race reliably. Great motor, won me a few races, simple maintenance, just couldn't figure out how to make a chain live.  Click here for the full 718x574 image. Action shot. That's me in the front and my friend and sometimes team mate right behind me. On that day, we had a real good race.. We diced back and forth for the whole 30 minutes. Yes, our races are 30 minutes long. No stops, not water breaks, just balls to the wall for 30 minutes. That doesn't sound too bad until you realize that those karts can pull 2.75g's in a corner. Go-karts also either outright hold or come very very close to holding overall lap records at most of the road courses in the US.  Click here for the full 500x400 image. A typical field in the TaG class is about 10. Some of the bigger races on the east and west coast, that number can push 20. At Kartweek, held right after the Christmas holidays at Daytona the TaG field will run 30+ There's a street race, held every labor day weekend in Rock Island IL that will have 45+ karts on the track at the same time, all in the same class. http://www.rockislandgrandprix.com/  Click here for the full 604x453 image. This is what I am running this year. The engine is a modified Honda CR 125 dirt bike motor. With that pipe and ignition combo is makes about 45 peak HP and the power band hits like a hammer around 9,600 rpm and pulls like a freight train up to about 11,800. Six speed transmission, four wheel disc brakes. It can smoke the tires from a standing start, and the rears are 7.1 inches wide. Each. Zero to Sixty back to Zero can happen pretty quick. Top speed isn't all the impressive considering that these things are about as aerodynamic as a small barn. I recently hit 114 mph in mine, in the draft. Trust me, that's plenty fast when your rear end is 25mm off the pavement and you're not wearing a seatbelt.  Click here for the full 604x453 image. When I was putting it together, there's this silly aluminum rod that you have to put a couple bends in to go from the shift linkage by the steering wheel back to the J-arm on the motor. This one didn't take too well to being bent.  Click here for the full 448x604 image. So I made one out of some solid steel rod I have laying around the shop. gently caress you aluminum.  Click here for the full 448x604 image. Shot of the finished piece, installed. Last race, during Sunday morning practice I actually broke one of the heim joints on that shift rod. It was on a down shift, so the heim was on tension. Guess i need to not bang on the shift lever so hard.  Click here for the full 604x453 image. This is the fuel pump. Pretty typical Mikuni fuel pump, but this one is special. It's two sided. One side draws fuel from the tank and pumps it to the carb, the other side pumps the over flow from the carb back to the tank. The Carbs I use on my shifter don't have floats or needle valves in them. Just a dip tube and some open cell foam to keep the fuel from sloshing too bad. The dip tube is what controls the level of the fuel. When the fuel reaches the dip tube, the fuel pump takes a suction on it and returns it to the tank. This makes sure that no matter how rough the track is there's always the right amount of fuel in the carb for the engine. The pump works by taking a pressure pulse from the crank case to pulse the diaphragms inside the pump to make the fuel move.  Click here for the full 604x453 image. When I was putting the radiator on, It wouldn't fit inside the nerf bars, so I have to modify the nerf bar. A little cut here, a little weld there, and like magic...good to go. My next race is in a couple more weeks. So far this year I have gotten a fourth and a third place, hopefully as I figure out this shifter stuff I'll get faster and start winning races again. Last year in one of the two classes I raced, I entered six races, and won all six. all told I had ten wins last year. This year? Eh, call it a learning year. Used Sunlight sales fucked around with this message at 22:19 on May 14, 2010 |
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May 14, 2010 22:00
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More pictures and content! There's on old chicken coop here on the ranch that last fall I got tired of looking at. So I decided that it needed to go. I hooked up to my trusty grapple with my track loader and went on the attack.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. gently caress you chicken coop.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Lifting that much weight while you're already facing downhill isn't a good idea. The back part of my tracks came off the ground and I dropped the coop pretty fast when I felt my machine get light in the back. You never want to tip one over. Not real good for your insurance rates.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Wood dripping from my jaws like BLOOD.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Tearing down that old coop was just about the most fun I have ever had with my track loader.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. About three seconds after this picture was taken I nearly de-tracked the right side on a cinder block I didn't see. Not too much more damage I could have done to the old coop, so I called it a day and parked the machine.
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May 14, 2010 22:18
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Used Sunlight sales posted:More pictures and content! You forgot the pic of the loader parked on top of the pile of coop with open jaws in the air, as if celebrating.
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May 14, 2010 22:57
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I would have just set the coop on fire, at least that's what we do to the old buildings on the family farm.
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May 14, 2010 23:32
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InitialDave posted:I think this should go in here: In the same vein as this, there's vintage projects, which is a fantastic collection of old projects with great illustrations on how to build drat near anything. http://www.vintageprojects.com/ Interesting highlights: more tractors tractor implements (snow blowers!) boats lathes and milling machines (!)
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May 15, 2010 05:00
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I have a daily driver, no. periodic mower which would easily be 50 years old. The Victa 18 is a drat near indestructable 2 stroke push mower. Every so often it will rattle something loose but it's usually a 5 minute fix and it's ready to go again. Awesome mower. You just have to hope that when it spits a blade, it is away from you. Also spark plug placement is curious. the orientation is perfect for shooting the operator in the head if it were to come adrift. I use 2 stroke with much more oil than normal to keep everything lubed, and feed it old car sparkplugs.
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May 15, 2010 05:09
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Slung Blade posted:In the same vein as this, there's vintage projects, which is a fantastic collection of old projects with great illustrations on how to build drat near anything. Thank you! This is awesome, and I see a lot of projects I'd like to tackle now.
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May 15, 2010 05:41
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Poisonlizard posted:Thank you! This is awesome, and I see a lot of projects I'd like to tackle now. If you like that one, you might like this one too. http://www.countryplans.com/vintage_farm/ e: I really like this one. http://countryplans.com/vintage_farm//bigkids/ElectricCar.pdf Power wheels for the 50s 
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May 15, 2010 06:04
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My buddy just called me up for a side job at a green dealership he works at. He needed some recalled diff carriers installed in some electric 4WD golf carts before he could sell them. 5 to be exact. Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Here's the old design.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. And the new updated part. I had to realign the rear wheels when I was done, which consisted of a stern look and a "yeah that looks good."  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. He now wants to take me on for $17 bucks an hour or so for "independant golf cart consulting." And gently caress yeah I drove the gently caress out of one of those things.
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May 15, 2010 16:37
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If you have any sort of automotive or motorcycle technical skill, golf carts and UTVs are stupid simple. Do it.
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May 15, 2010 16:54
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Went to a tractor show this weekend. We took my buddies 48 F-1 so that was awesome. I really wish I had some stuff ready for this show but I will next year. This time I just took a lot of pictures and found a guy that knows all about old lawnmowers that I can consult with. Driving the 48.  There was also a Gravely show going on.        There was also some old engines.  This was pretty nicely restored.  5 window tow truck.   Tiny engines.   There was a few restored Panzers there and one original for sale, $450! They have a kind of cult-following like the Gravelys it seems.       A radial engine.  He also had this engine. What the f  Oh, 
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May 16, 2010 20:36
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Pipkin posted:There was also a Gravely show going on. I've got a Gravely. They've got a cult following because once you use one, you'll realize they were the best two and four wheeled small tractors ever made. Look at it! It's saying "Hay! I'd sure like to take this 60" deck out and rapefuck your waist high grass down to the ground! Or throw snow 100'! Or till your garden in two passes! Just get me out of this garage!"  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. No wait. My Onan assplode.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. But wait, there's hope! Eventually, i'd like to have it restored to the level you see those two wheel Gravely's done up to. Except, i'm abandoning the Onan for either the Honda or the Vanguard.
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May 16, 2010 22:21
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Pipkin posted:Gravelys and Panzer  Used Sunlight sales posted:racing karts, coop destruction Good stuff, thanks  Slung Blade posted:links You too Skyssx posted:My Onan assplode. I just happened to stumble upon that last week; had no idea it existed in kit form. Get the Honda.
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May 16, 2010 22:31
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Bucephalus posted:I just happened to stumble upon that last week; had no idea it existed in kit form. Get the Honda. With the Honda you get the pro of it being a Honda. And Hondas...? Parts are more expensive and harder to come by in general. The Vanguard isn't really made by B&S, (I hear Toyota?), but you can get parts for them at any B&S dealer. No one is using GXVs in modern zero turns. It's mostly Kawasaki KAIs and Kohler Commands with some Vanguards. It seems like a wash either way. VVVV I love a freshly sharpened chain. Where the bar just gets pulled through the wood. I need more chains. Skyssx fucked around with this message at 02:58 on May 17, 2010 |
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May 17, 2010 01:55
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I should get pictures of my chainsaws. Its a moderate collection, just 3, all Husqy. a 2004 345 I got for free from my boss. Its a POS, and the compression is down to 80psi, so its just about done. a 1979 Rancher 44 and my new "big saw", a 2001 261, which is damned powerful, and I've got the itch to order the 262XP piston and clutch from Baileys, and open the muffler up a bit... hello loads more power out (5hp) of 1 more CC.
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May 17, 2010 02:43
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Pipkin posted:The giant blade is awesome, screw safety, we have a job to do. Second pic is: 
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May 17, 2010 02:55
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Skyssx posted:With the Honda you get the pro of it being a Honda. And Hondas...? Parts are more expensive and harder to come by in general. The Vanguard isn't really made by B&S, (I hear Toyota?), but you can get parts for them at any B&S dealer. No one is using GXVs in modern zero turns. It's mostly Kawasaki KAIs and Kohler Commands with some Vanguards. I'm of the opinion that Commands/Vanguards were rushed into production to meet EPA standards, and don't stack up to the Hondas, which had been OHV all along. Point taken about cost, perhaps that's why OEMs aren't using them? Kawasakis I just don't trust; plastic oil pump gears = blown engines. Browse CL and Ebay and see how many late-model Deeres and commercial walkbehinds you see with broken Kaws. Just my $.02, don't mean to sound like a know-it-all Is your heart set on a new v-twin, or would you do KT/Magnum retrofit? Adapter plates are common enough, and the engines are proven and easy to find parts for. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 03:02 on May 17, 2010 |
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May 17, 2010 03:00
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I haven't got my heart set on anything, and I definitely don't know it all. I'm gathering funds and data before starting. My dad bought the tractor in the early 90's when we moved to a more rural area. It's a '78 I think. The paperwork and books are still in his desk somewhere. It stopped running when I was maybe 16, he pulled apart the engine and found that it had spun one of the connecting rod bearings. All the parts are in another part of his garage. The tractors demise was probably in no small part to me whooping the poo poo out of it. Whatever engine I power it with is going to be worthless if all the deck spindles and pulleys are hosed with no spares available, or if the deck gearbox is metal shavings, or if the snow blower is barely holding together. Kaws i'm seeing are more often failing due to being run for 2000 hours before the valves are even looked at. 300 hour maintenance interval? Nah, it'll be fine. A new V-twin would be nice for parts availability, I didn't know there were opposed kohler repowers available. Opposed engines sounds better anyway. Are they even made anymore?
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May 17, 2010 03:20
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Skyssx posted:I didn't know there were opposed kohler repowers available. Opposed engines sounds better anyway. Are they even made anymore? http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=M18S-24633 The thing about the SEW kit listings is that they assume you want to keep whatever was on the tractor. They don't list the M18 as a replacement for Briggs/Onan tractors, but with the correct adapter plate, it bolts right on like factory. (Some cable/wiring/exhaust fuckery is involved, of course.) Skyssx posted:Whatever engine I power it with is going to be worthless if all the deck spindles and pulleys are hosed with no spares available, or if the deck gearbox is metal shavings I've got 3 decks in various states of disrepair, and won't be using them. Lemme know if you need anything.
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May 17, 2010 03:39
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The M20 engine is $3000. Almost double a V-twin that has more power and is still in production. Pros and cons! I'm treating this like an automotive rebuild test run. If I can't restore a tractor, I shouldn't even bother with a project car. 669.2 hours on the unit, so a repower would probably get it going for another decade or two. Skyssx fucked around with this message at 03:52 on May 17, 2010 |
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May 17, 2010 03:45
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Pipkin posted:These have to be home builts. Those look like car grills (from the 30s or 40s) to me. Did you get any info on them? Awesome images, thanks for sharing.
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May 17, 2010 17:06
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Slung Blade posted:These have to be home builts. Those look like car grills (from the 30s or 40s) to me. Did you get any info on them? The one on top I did find out a little about. The guy in that picture is the owner and he told me it was made by Worthington using mostly Model A parts. He said something like 1500 were made. He is also the guy that restores old lawn mowers. The one below I know nothing about. I have a machine like these that's from the 50's made my Toro with a 6 cylinder Ford engine so they aren't all home-built. They were mostly made to tow gang reel mowers (as far as I know right now). Landshark posted:The giant blade is awesome, screw safety, we have a job to do. LOVE that Powerwagon. e: quoted landshark shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 23:48 on May 17, 2010 |
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May 17, 2010 23:45
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I think one of my compressors counts: Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. It seems to have been built out of various parts. The pressure gauges are mechanical oil pressure gauges. The tank seems to be a cut down air tank from an old truck. Not sure about the compressor. Either truck or stationary. The motor is a later addition. The original motor mount looks like it would take a Briggs&Stratton motor. If I can ever find one at a decent price it's going back to petrol power. It has one unregulated output tapped directly into the tank. The other is via a regulator but uses a smaller quick connect coupling. I need to replace this some time. The tank has an overpressure valve. The compressor stops pumping when it reaches the correct pressure and just freewheels. The motor is only directly controlled by it's power switch. When the compressor is running and pumping it makes a very satisfying "thokthokthok" noise rather than the brain-rattling racket of a lot of consumer compressors. I love this thing. Got it for something like $30 at a garage sale. This thing is also a lot heavier than it looks. edit: i xan tyep gud. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 01:52 on May 18, 2010 |
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May 18, 2010 01:49
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Pipkin posted:There was also a Gravely show going on. I found the sales brochure for that saw. It looks
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May 19, 2010 00:35
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I helped out a relative a bit with this tractor project last year - Before  After  Mid-70s Ford 5600 that burned in the field.
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May 19, 2010 03:38
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Very nicely done! Do you have any in-progress pics?
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May 19, 2010 13:56
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I found a few more.  
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May 21, 2010 03:47
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Hey go-kart people, I have a manco silverfox that has a torque converter. I need to clean it and I'm trying to avoid buying the expensive comet dry lubricant spray ($30), when I have a can of dupont multi-use teflon dry-spray already. Anyone want to comment? I've heard "yea you'll be fine" to "OMG nuclear explosion" and don't know what to think. For content, here's a picture of the lights I just put on it:  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.
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May 21, 2010 17:50
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rocket_350 posted:I found a few more. Holy gently caress that looks nice. How did you clean the old paint off first?
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May 22, 2010 04:16
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Slung Blade posted:Holy gently caress that looks nice. How did you clean the old paint off first? Hell yes. That is a really nice job and I want to ask the same question. What happened for it to catch fire? e: I'm dumb, it caught fire before you restored it.
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May 22, 2010 04:38
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