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Windows XP has it natively. Ctrl + Alt + [whatever arrow key] Press the arrow key that points where you want the top of the screen to point.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2010 14:10 |
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| # ? May 23, 2013 00:12 |
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e: nvm
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| # ? Oct 20, 2010 14:11 |
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Jared592 posted:What are you running to flip the display so it's not upside down? Default option for almost all graphics card drivers for close to all operating systems for at least the last 15 years.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2010 14:24 |
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Blaster of Justice posted:Default option for almost all graphics card drivers for close to all operating systems for at least the last 15 years. Whatever buddy show me how to do this in OS2 Warp Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:Windows XP has it natively. Ctrl + Alt + [whatever arrow key] Press the arrow key that points where you want the top of the screen to point.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2010 16:27 |
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I never knew that it was so easy to flip the screen around. I was given a Dell Inspiron 4150 laptop a couple of weeks ago and finally got around to messing with it the other day. It has a Pentium 4 1.9GHz, 256MB RAM and a 30GB hard drive. The hard drive appears to be pretty flaky and 255MB RAM isn't enough to do much of anything so I ordered max out RAM (1GB boo) and the biggest hard drive (320GB meh) I know the machine can support. The parts should show today. I can at least use it to run portable Alldata. I have a wireless-N USB dongle to use with it. The desktop machine for the garage shop is made of beefier stuff. It has an Athlon 64 something or other with 2GB RAM and a 500GB hard drive and an nvidia 8400 graphics card with way more horsepower than necessary. What is this in our garage? The Jeep pictured earlier in this thread was blue with tinted windows and different wheels. ![]() Click here for the full 2009x1327 image. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. So yesterday I saw on cragislist a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L 4x4 with 240k miles for $1200. The ad had been posted for about 3.5 hours before I saw it. I called and the seller said they already had some calls. She said she couldn't show the truck until after 4 PM. I don't get off work until 6, so I was pretty sure I was going to be out of luck. I had my wife call when she got off work at 4:30 and the seller said someone already came to look at the truck and was coming back with cash. I called again right before I left work since the ad was still posted. The seller said buyer #1 was supposed to be back with cash by 8 PM. I asked her to please call me if anything happened because I would love to buy the Jeep. She said she would. When I got home I figured I was out of luck so my wife helped me put up some lath on the wall to space out the pegboard. If you screw the pegboard right to the wall you won't be able to put the hooks in it. We were just getting started when the phone rang. It was the seller. She said buyer #1 had just called asking if it would be OK if he paid by check. The seller didn't like hearing that so she called me. The seller said buyer #1 had a half an hour to come up with cash or the truck was mine to buy. Thirty minutes later she called again and gave us the address. We went and saw the truck. The seller's husband was being deployed to Afghanistan and he wanted to sell the Jeep and buy a new truck when he gets back. It needs new brake pads, the driver's window doesn't work, and the driver's door doesn't lock and unlock with the rest of the doors using the fob or the power door lock switch on the inside of the door. There is a whining sound at speed that sounds like maybe a wheel bearing. The interior of the truck was very clean and it had a full size spare in the back. The exterior was in very good shape except the windshield and back glass each have a hairline crack and the clear coat is stripped on the hood. The 97 Jeep has some equipment our blue 99 doesn't have such as fog lamps, ABS brakes, and a sweet overhead computer. Curiously none of the windows are tinted at all. So we bought the Jeep with real American cash money and brought it home. We went out to eat some spicy Chinese food and drink some hot tea since my wife was feeling ill. When we got home I was no longer motivated to work on the peg board. But I was this morning! I got up at 6:30 and continued screwing the lath to the wall using #10x2.5" screws every twelve inches. I got four columns of lath put up before I had to go to the hardware store and get more screws. I got the screws and went home and finished hanging the lath on one section of the wall. I put up two pieces of the cut up pegboard before it was 8:10 and I had to take a shower and go to work. The pegboard is mounted using one of the previously mentioned apocolypse screws on every stud every twelve vertical inches. I LOVE to get stuff done like this in the morning. ![]() Click here for the full 1630x1408 image. The piece that will be on the top needs to have a little notch cut out of it so it will fit around the beam in the ceiling. Then I need to lath the other section of the wall, mount the pegboard and then take the sawhorses and some other stuff back to the in-laws' house and park two (of six holy poo poo) cars in the garage. I need to get some brake pads for the black Jeep and figure out what I need to get the driver's window working. Then figure out the noise at speed and drive it through the winter. I have looked forward to snow like this since I was in school.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2010 16:51 |
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Here is the Eagle after being washed. About half the paint is glossy and shiny and half completely sucks. My friend had the idea to cover the roof in vinyl like a Landau roof to hide the unspeakably terrible paint.![]() Click here for the full 1912x1153 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1408x1248 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1989x1042 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1927x739 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1974x1047 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1815x1151 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1856x1094 image.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2010 17:33 |
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Holy poo poo that trunk is being eaten alive. I love the pegboard, I have an exposed 2x4 garage and pegboard was my plan for the entire thing.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2010 20:12 |
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It is only the outer skin of the trunk lid. No water gets into the trunk. Most of the discoloration is bad clearcoat/faded paint. If it gets cold where you live I strongly suggest insulating the walls and throwing up some kind of wall before you put up the pegboard. The previous owner of our house insulated the exterior walls and ceiling of the garage. I need to get one of those garage door insulation kits.
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| # ? Oct 20, 2010 21:55 |
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PBCrunch posted:It is only the outer skin of the trunk lid. No water gets into the trunk. Most of the discoloration is bad clearcoat/faded paint. From my experience, 95% of all Eagle Visions that are still in ~1 piece are in junkyards because they were cheap beaters up until the point where the transmission poo poo the bed, and then instead of getting fixed, most people just threw them at the junkyard. A new trunk could be sourced pretty easily if you're willing to replace it. If the paint on the roof isn't rusted or faded to the metal, a few hours with an orbital and some rubbing compound will clear most of that right up. Again, if it's worth it to you to spend the time doing it, which for a Vision, probably isn't. And I just wanna chime in that I both love and hate this thread. I love it because it's just a loving awesome thread, and I hate it because it's making me want to do the same thing that you are, but I don't have the disposable cash or the time, at the moment. It has gotten me motivated to do a lot of work on my car that I've been putting off, though, so there's that. edit: just found out that the Vision had the A606 transmission, which is basically a tarted up A604. That explains so much. zamin fucked around with this message at Oct 21, 2010 around 02:18 |
| # ? Oct 21, 2010 02:14 |
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zamin posted:From my experience, 95% of all Eagle Visions that are still in ~1 piece are in junkyards because they were cheap beaters up until the point where the transmission poo poo the bed, and then instead of getting fixed, most people just threw them at the junkyard. A new trunk could be sourced pretty easily if you're willing to replace it. If the paint on the roof isn't rusted or faded to the metal, a few hours with an orbital and some rubbing compound will clear most of that right up. Again, if it's worth it to you to spend the time doing it, which for a Vision, probably isn't. The problem with Eagles of that vintage is a lovely clear coat, have the same problem with my Talon. You can't just "buff it out", you'd have to actually re-clear it.
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 04:33 |
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MikeyTsi posted:The problem with Eagles of that vintage is a lovely clear coat, have the same problem with my Talon. You can't just "buff it out", you'd have to actually re-clear it. You'd be surprised what a decent rubbing compound will do. I have the exact same problem with my 88 Accord's paint that I did with my 93 Vision, and all in the same spots (hood, roof, trunk lid), and I'm currently restoring the paint job as a cheap and time-consuming hobby for when I'm bored and to teach me more about paint/detailing. A decent rubbing compound and either a lot of elbow-grease by hand or several hours with an orbital set at 1k or 1.5k will strip off the clear coat and leave you with a pretty drat good looking layer of paint, unless the underlying layer(s) of paint is that trashed or just gone altogether. It won't look factory fresh but it will look about a zillion times. I've only really just begun, but I have some areas that I've put a lot of time into that were an almost white and hazy clusterfuck back to a dark blue metallic and almost mirror finish. The only caveat is that when you're done you'll have to really keep up on waxing to protect it or get it re-cleared. For the OP's purposes with the Eagle, the work/cost probably far outweighs the potential value gain, but it can be done, and the results are a lot better than you'd think.
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 04:53 |
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As for the transmission there is an excellent source of good transmissions now. All those 2.7L LH cars that end up in the junkyard because the motor blew up at 60k miles have revised transmissions that bolt in with a couple simple modifications. By the time 1998 came along the Chrysler front drive automatic had most of the bugs out. Plus those transmissions tend to have low miles since the 2.7L motors were capital JUNK junk. The paint on the roof of the Eagle is way past buffing. It is rough to the touch like sandpaper and there is a thin coating of surface rust. I have it listed for sale as is, maybe I will attempt some kind of repair but it would have to be either vinyl or sand and shoot. I have never used auto paint before and I don't have a gun. If I had more time and didn't have the Jeep I would seriously consider buying a HF paint gun and shooting the car in the garage. Speaking of the Eagle here are some interior pics after i vacuumed, dusted and cleaned the windows. Holy gently caress those cars have a lot of glass. The glass cleaning wand was a lifesaver on the front and rear glass. I also took the crappy old Pioneer CD player out of the Jeep we bought the other night. I am going to drive the Jeep a good bit I think so I want something that can connect to my iPod. I have an Alpine ida-X303 someone gave me with a broken screen but I don't know if I really want to use that. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. I posted the car on craigslist yesterday but no nibbles except spambots so far. I got pulled over last night for no plates. Better yet I didn't have the bill of sale or the title with me since my wife had it so she could go to the DMV. The police officer asked the name of the person who sold me the car; I could only remember the first name. He asked me for my license and ran the VIN and told me to get plates soon and drive home safe. That is the first time I have been pulled over for no plates, and I have been doing a lot of driving with no tags. I ran the old 1/4 tank of gas out of the Eagle's tank yesterday and put in a couple gallons of fresh gas. It seems to be running smoother. I hope it will be 100% after I change the plugs and wires, which are coming by Fedex from Rockauto today. The wires were half the price of local, even with the shipping rolled in. I finished the pegboard project last night. I had to cut out a section to clear a light switch. I wasn't very happy with the cut I made using a sawzall but the circular saw was no help in the situation. ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. This morning I got up early and hung some pegboard scraps above my rolling tool chest. I took the front rotors off the black Jeep and dropped them off for machining. I also washed a bunch of new bath towels I got at Sam's Club so my wife will be happy. Tonight I think I will finish up the Jeep brakes, put in some CD player or another, and hang the remaining pegboard scraps in the basement by the laundry machine. I need to hit the hardware store and get some more screws and some hooks for the pegboard. I have some hooks that screw into joists to hang a 6 foot ladder from the ceiling instead of having it take up space in the basement, which is the next cleanup project. The wall mount for the monitor is supposed to arrive today so I will probably hang that up in the garage. The lithium battery in my Ryobi drill finally died this morning after driving somewhere in the neighborhood of 140 #10x2.5" screws into studs. My father in law is always rubbing the screw threads against a piece of wax to help them go in better and save drill batteries. I think maybe his drill or battery is weak since I didn't wax any screws.
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 15:48 |
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This is an awesome thread... It's even more awesome for me since I lived in Omaha for 8 years and recognize a bit of the scenery. What part of town do you live in? Are there any cars that Omaha would pay a premium for if they were from rust-free Oregon? I figure I should be able to pay for my trip to Omaha if I cart a cheap rust-free car from Portland and sell it in Omaha.
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 16:53 |
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I think there is money to be made bringing in rust-free 1990s Hondas such as Civics, CRXs, Integras, and Accords. Civics/CRX and Integras more than Accords. Toyotas don't seem to be eaten with body cancer the way Hondas are and Nissans seem to depreciate to near-zero like domestic cars. I live in the northwest suburbs near Standing Bear Lake but I work in south Omaha, near 42 & F. A lot of the pictures I take are in the parking lot at work since I am here during so much of the time that the natural light is good enough to take pictures.
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 17:06 |
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There is an excellent assortment of rust-free Hondas here. I looked at a neglected 88 Accord a while back, 0% of it was rust. I got goosebumps when I looked up where Standing Bear Lake is... I lived in Diamond Head subdivision, which was near the Albertsons at 156th and Blondo, and used to drive around your area before it was developed. Do you have AIM/MSN/Yahoo?
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 17:15 |
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Thats mostly because Nissans are domestics*! *nearly every non-sport model has been made in the US
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 17:49 |
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I don't know how things work where you are, but around here (MA) I think that if you sell more than X cars in a year you have to license as a dealer. Does it work that way up there?
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 17:52 |
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I don't mess with pre-1990 Accords. Most of them are carbed, the suspensions are funky, the engine stuff doesn't transfer to other Hondas. The 1990+ Accord was a major leap forward. The 88+ CRX, 93+ Civic & 94+ Integra seem to be the cars that could fetch decent money around here in rust free condition. In Nebraska the limit is eight cars in a twelve month period. Yes, most Nissans are made in USA and have been for a while. The Maxima was made in Japan until 2004 or so and those cars don't hold value like Honda Acura Toyota Lexus products. Most Honda Civics and Accords have been US made since the early 1990s and the same applies to the Corolla and Camry. I think the Infiniti dealer here must not be very good because I hardly ever see any Infinitis other than G35; every once in a while an old G20. I got a text message from someone offering $1000 for the Eagle. I just listed yesterday afternoon for $1400 and I would really like to see $1200 out of the car since the tie rod bushings were really a pain. KBB says $1530 as equipped in fair condition. I would say the car is mechanically almost excellent, interior is very good, exterior is fair (no structural rust no accident damage). Expenses thus far: $500 car $70 battery $20 tie rod bushings $10 spark plugs $32 spark plug wires $20 CD player & install parts $4 car wash -$0.50 found under the back seat ------- $655.50 but I still have to pay sales tax (boo) & register car so add another $55 for that.
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 18:15 |
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zamin posted:You'd be surprised what a decent rubbing compound will do. I have the exact same problem with my 88 Accord's paint that I did with my 93 Vision, and all in the same spots (hood, roof, trunk lid), and I'm currently restoring the paint job as a cheap and time-consuming hobby for when I'm bored and to teach me more about paint/detailing. I guess I should said "To do it right instead of half-assing it,..."
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| # ? Oct 21, 2010 21:20 |
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I put new pads on the Jeep and resurfaced the rotors. The pedal still feels a little weird and the ABS still makes a noise for no reason when coming to a complete stop. The terrible sound it makes when the engine starts up is pieces of matrix rattling around inside the catalyst. There are some pieces in the muffler too it sounds like. My neighbor is pretty sure the howling sound is the rear diff. It was late and dark so we looked no further but we will give it a better inspection. If it is low on fluid we will fix the leak and fill it up. If it is more complex than that get ready for some pictures. Something is wrong with the CD player in the Eagle. The front left channel isn't working and there is alternator whine. I will have to inspect the wiring harness. I should have checked to make sure all channels were working when I pulled the deck out of the black Jeep. Oh well. The Eagle is running like a champ without even changing the plugs and wires. I think the gas in the tank had gone skunky from sitting. Ethanol gas is pretty bad that way and I am pretty sure thats what the car had in it since 10% ethanol gas is the cheapest here in corn country. Now that the car is running on fresh gas it is running very well. I will change the plugs and wires tomorrow anyway since the gas mileage is kind of poor (the overhead computer says 19.5mpg and pretty much all my driving is on the interstate that runs through the city). I hung up the wall mount for the computer monitor. It looks pretty sweet. I had to secure the mount to a piece of plywood and mount the plywood to the wall since the studs were all poorly positioned for mounting the screen. Of course there is no computer, electricity or keyboard tray yet so it isn't quite ready for primetime. I looked at garage insulating kits at Home Depot. They want $150 for enough insulation to cover the inside of my double garage door. gently caress that, I'm going to cut up some foam sheets and mount them with silver tape. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at Oct 22, 2010 around 03:20 |
| # ? Oct 22, 2010 03:17 |
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I went to hang the left over pieces of shelf and pegboard in the basement and learned that all the drywall in the basement is backed by half inch (I think) foam sheets and it is all directly anchored into the concrete. So how do I hang the shelves? I think it involves concrete anchors. My drill doesn't seem to be able to punch through the concrete. I am guessing I need a "hammer drill" and I am probably better off buying one with a cord. Oh yeah also this: ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. If I was a really beautiful and unique snowflake I guess I would have cut a tunnel in the wall or something for the cables. In the reality limited by my time and abilities they will be wire tied to the shelf brackets. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at Oct 22, 2010 around 12:48 |
| # ? Oct 22, 2010 12:43 |
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I've put things up on the concrete in my basement by using a hammerdrill and concrete anchors. The ones I used are bolts with a screw like thread. You drill a hole (don't remember the diameter offhand) that's about a quarter inch deeper than the length of the screw. Then you use a 1/4" socket or wrench to screw it in. They seem to hold really well, but I wouldn't load the shelves as heavily as if they had been screwed into studs - I don't trust them not to pull out. I believe I got Tapcon ones, like this:
Sudden Infant Def Syndrome fucked around with this message at Oct 22, 2010 around 14:21 |
| # ? Oct 22, 2010 14:18 |
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:I believe I got Tapcon ones, like this: Niagara Falls! Slowly, I turned... Those are awesome for putting a huge hole in a tire, ask me how I know!
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| # ? Oct 22, 2010 15:23 |
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:I've put things up on the concrete in my basement by using a hammerdrill and concrete anchors. The ones I used are bolts with a screw like thread. You drill a hole (don't remember the diameter offhand) that's about a quarter inch deeper than the length of the screw. Then you use a 1/4" socket or wrench to screw it in. Tapcons are def the way to go there. Most packages I've seen come with the corresponding masonry bit too. You don't need a hammerdrill, it just makes it a little easier. Using a regular drill, you just have to provide your own hammering action.
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| # ? Oct 22, 2010 19:21 |
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I went to see my friend at lunch. I borrowed a hammer drill from him. I'm going to stop at the hardware store on the way home for some tapcons. I pulled the Pioneer radio to diagnose the alternator noise and the missing front left channel. I re-did the wiring and the F/L channel still doesn't work so I guess the radio is bad. It was made in 1998 so it is not a big surprise it no longer works perfectly. I could have saved myself some aggravation by testing it while it was still in the vehicle it came from. So I will have to pick a different radio to install.
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| # ? Oct 22, 2010 20:34 |
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PBCrunch posted:But I was this morning! I got up at 6:30 and continued screwing the lath to the wall using #10x2.5" screws every twelve inches. I got four columns of lath put up before I had to go to the hardware store and get more screws. I got the screws and went home and finished hanging the lath on one section of the wall. I put up two pieces of the cut up pegboard before it was 8:10 and I had to take a shower and go to work. The pegboard is mounted using one of the previously mentioned apocolypse screws on every stud every twelve vertical inches. In the packs you buy different peg board hangers in the include little black plastic setoffs. If you will screw these between the lath and the pegboard, you will be able to mount your pegboard even in the areas covering the lath. Alternatively, you can ditch the lath and used these to screw into the studs. Doesn't seem like a lot, I know, but it frees up a considerable amount of space to hang things. I enjoy your thread.
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| # ? Oct 24, 2010 18:18 |
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Too late for that tip. I just hung up the pegboard the way the previous owner did his. I have so much pegboard I don't think the fact that I can't hang anything on the lath parts will matter. Kept busy this weekend, but forgot to take pictures of anything. I struggled mightily on Friday and Saturday with the Tapcons. It went something like this: At lunch time on Friday I went and borrowed a hammer drill from my friend. On the way home from work I bought a box of Tapcons with a drill bit included. (Home Depot stop #1) I got home and discovered the drill was missing the chuck key. My three drills all have keyless chucks. I called my father-in-law and he said he had a drill with a chuck so we went to my wife's parents' house to get the chuck and drill. When we got to her parents' house we discovered that my wife's aunt was there to pick up some furniture that used to be in my wife's deceased grandparents' home. A whole bunch of furniture; a two part china cabinet, a kitchen table, a tea cart, a futon with mattress, a cedar chest, and a few boxes of smaller items. We move all this stuff into her aunt's trailer and pick up the drill and chuck and go home. At home I discover this second drill's chuck does not work with the hammer drill. I decide to press on and put the new masonry bit from the box of Tapcons in the non-hammer drill and drill a hole. It takes a long time and a lot of pressure but it does drill a hole. I put in a screw and find out it is an inch too short. So we go back to the hardware store (Home Depot trip #2) and get a box of longer Tapcons. I try to drill a few more holes and decide the drill is not the right kind and that I will try again in the morning. Saturday morning I called the friend I borrowed the drill from. He says he is running errands and he will be at his shop in twenty minutes or so. I decide to drive over there and get the chuck key for his hammer drill. I get there and the shop door is locked and my friend isn't answering the phone. I went to the hardware store again (Home Depot trip #3) to get a chuck key. It was only $2.48. I wasted more money than that in gas to drive to my friend's shop. Grumble grumble. So I get home and start drilling. With the right masonry bit and the hammer drill things are going pretty well. The hammer drill is able to drill a 3/16" hole in the concrete pretty easily. I go to screw the shelf brackets into the wall... and a screw breaks in half. I wonder what is happening and try a different hole with the same results. The problem is that the drill bit I used was too short for the long Tapcons. So I go to the hardware store for the right drill bit (Home Depot trip #4). I have the right drill, chuck key, drill bit, and Tapcons that are long enough. I re-drill the holes for the shelf bracket and screw in a screw... and the bit keeps slipping. I try three different sizes of phillips bit before deciding that I will go to the store and get Tapcons with a hex head (Home Depot trip #5). Once I had all my ducks in a row it was easy as pie. I didn't have to hunt for studs so in that way it was actually easier than hanging shelves in the garage. I hung up two shelves by the laundry machines, one over my computer to hold the little stereo that I run the sound through, another shelf to the left of the computer to hold the printer, and a little shelf over by the furnace that holds the cable modem and wireless router. I took my pegboard scraps and hung them up in some different spots in the garage. Some over by my rolling tool chest and some over by the computer. On Sunday I assembled my computer for the garage. Athlon X2 3600+, 5GB DDR2 RAM, GF 7600, AMD 580X motherboard. All old stuff but plenty fast for streaming video and Alldata. I found out the 500GB hard drive I wanted to use was no good so it will only have a 200GB IDE drive. Oh well. I pulled out the Pioneer CD player in the Eagle that had a noise problem and a bad channel and put in an old Clarion instead. The noise problem disappeared and all four channels work. It also has a better radio tuner than the Pioneer. After I had fixed the inner tie rod bushings on the Eagle the wiper squirters didn't work. I thought maybe it was coincidentally out of fluid so I filled it up. No dice. I thought maybe the lines had been emptied and it would take a while to fill them back up. Wrong. I had my wife come outside and press the button while I listened for the motor and looked for fluid spraying under the hood. Funny thing, as soon as I opened the hoop the squirters started working, but weakly. When I closed the hood they stopped entirely. So I pried the cowl up and discovered the hole I ran the fluid hose through was the wrong one. I re-routed the fluid hose and presto the squirters were perfect with the hood open or closed. No news on the sales front with the Eagle. Worst case I am pretty sure my co-worker will buy it from me for a small profit. As for the new Jeep I pulled off the driver's door panel and confirmed the window regulator is broken. A new one is $85 on Rockauto. For now I can push the window up by hand and put a metal hose clamp on the regulator under the window to hold it in the fully closed position. Since I work for a speaker company and one door panel is already off the truck will be getting new front speakers. The upholstery has delaminated from the pod that holds the rear speakers from the roof in the back of the truck so that will have to come down and that will mean new speakers back there too. The driver's door lock actuator does work, it just doesn't work when the door is open. The right passenger door does have a bad lock actuator. It makes a different sound than the other actuators and doesn't work. My neighbor let me use his super awesome Snap-On scan tool and found out that when coming to a stop the right rear wheel speed sensor reports zero when the other three wheels report 5-6 mph. A new sensor is $68 on Rockauto, but before I order a new one I am going to pull the drum off and inspect the existing sensor. Sometimes they get metal shards stuck to them that can cause errors. I'm not sure what is causing the squishy pedal. The next thing to try will be a brake fluid flush. I found out the Alpine radio with a broken face is too broken to use. It looked like just the volume buttom was broken, but the display is broken, the source button and the remote eye don't work. Boo. I found a cheap little $1 mini vise grips in the garage. It is perfect for keeping in the hatch of the new Jeep to hold the hatch open. EDIT: I forgot to mention before that I changed the plugs and wires on the Eagle. The wires looked like they had been replaced before. The plugs looked pretty fresh too, but the gaps were way to small. They were supposed to be .050 but half were .025 or less. The car doesn't run any different. It has been really smooth since I ran through the fuel that was in the tank when I bought it and filled it with fresh gas. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at Oct 25, 2010 around 21:20 |
| # ? Oct 25, 2010 16:08 |
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The neighbor I am friendly with was building a workbench in his garage last night out of 2x4s and some plywood. I got jealous and I think I am going to build one as well. Mine will be a lot smaller since it will be in the back corner of the garage. I have a little coffee table over there right now but a taller bench with some shelves under it would be more useful. He also got me thinking about making the wiring of the lights in my garage more elegant. I ran into my cousin's husband at the gas station this morning. I was talking about hanging shelves and whatnot and he said to make sure to never do too much all at one time because no matter what you do your wife will want just that one last extra thing. If you are smart you leave yourself some breathing room.
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| # ? Oct 25, 2010 17:36 |
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The workbench my friend gave me was built out of 2x4s and plywood, and it's extremely solid and sturdy. He topped it with the stuff you put on counter-tops, and it looks really good.
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| # ? Oct 25, 2010 22:44 |
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:The workbench my friend gave me was built out of 2x4s and plywood, and it's extremely solid and sturdy. He topped it with the stuff you put on counter-tops, and it looks really good. My dad's workbench is a butcher block-style maple bench. It's got a 2x4 frame to support the top, which is made with what I remember being 2" square pieces of maple, all put together like a butcher block. That workbench is heavy and solid as gently caress. My grandfather had a furniture business specializing in maple tables and chairs. My dad learned the trade (but didn't take over the business...my uncle steve took it over and expertly piloted it straight into the ground, but I digress) and made a bunch of furniture for our house. Kitchen table, side table, coffee table, two end tables, the workbench, and a snazzy-looking bar, which is now in my house and fully stocked with booze.
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| # ? Oct 26, 2010 00:22 |
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Go to your local library. Get Family Handyman from Nov/Dec 1993. They have a dead solid workbench plan that is cheap and real easy to make your own. If you guys can't find it, pm me and I will scan it and send it. I have used this plan to build workbenches in 4 different shops since I first read the article. A monkey could build it and it is really customizable. The only thing I have changed over the years is put some thin hardboard on the top surrounded by a hardwood frame 1/4 inch proud of the plywood top so I can replace the hardboard as it gets poo pooed up with glue and stuff. This is a good workbench for mechanics. Mechanics don't need hardwood tops like woodworkers do. If you are a woodworker you need a butcher block top. Otherwise, you want something cheaper. (Generally Family Handyman sucks as a magazine, but they knocked it out of the park with this one.)
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| # ? Oct 26, 2010 00:53 |
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http://www.rd.com/images/offer/fh/p...b_Workbench.pdf That is a pretty badass workbench.
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| # ? Oct 26, 2010 03:47 |
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It's late, I'm tired, and all I can see when I tried to read this was "Table Saw Reacharound", which doesn't sound good at all. It looks rad though, thanks for posting that; I know I'll dig it in the morning. I got a lovely plastic folding table for a workbench at the moment. ![]() Can't be too hard to cover that workbench in sheetmetal.
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| # ? Oct 26, 2010 05:41 |
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My neighbor took a look at the right rear drum on the new Jeep last night. There was a bunch of metal particles on the wheel sensor but my neighbor didn't think there was enough there to cause the problem. He noticed that the drum adjuster cable was not routed properly. He thought this might have been the cause of the problem since the metal cable was too close to the sensor. I put it back together and took it for a test drive this morning. The problem is still there. I ordered a new sensor for $65. Jeep ABS Sensor with metal fuzz, too bad this didn't solve the problem: ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. The inside of the Jeep door. The motor turns but nothing happens; bad regulator. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. This is how blown hatch struts are fixed for $1 ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. The headliner material on the "sound bar" on the roof in the back of the Jeep has delaminated. I need to take this out and glue some new fabric back on. I am thinking black maybe. Or maybe I will take out the whole headliner and get some material that looks like a blue sky with clouds. I have always wanted to put in a blue sky with white clouds headliner. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Shelves in basement for computer stereo and printer: ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Basement shelf for the router and cable modem. The previous owner had that piece of plywood sitting on the water heater pipes as a router shelf. Tisk tisk. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. The basement shelves by the washer and dryer for the laundry soaps and iron and all that womanfolk whatnot. I kid. I kid. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Here is the computer in the garage, fully operational. I need to build a little shelf for the keyboard and mouse. The keyboard and mouse are wireless so I can change tracks and stuff like that without having to walk over to the computer. I put a piece of pegboard over there to hold onto USB keys and cables and stuff like that. ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. My wife's sister's old Dell Inspiron 4150. After boosting the RAM from 256MB to 1GB and upgrading from a broken 30GB 4200rpm drive to a 60GB 7200rpm model (the biggest it would support) it is not fast, but good enough to run remote desktop or browse the web. ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. I bought this a long time ago to put up in the garage. I don't really have a place to put it out there without infringing on head room so it is going in the basement instead. It should be really easy to find studs the ceiling joists down there since there they are exposed. ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. This is also in the basement. I don't want to keep the battery chargers in the garage since exposure to cold is not good for nickel metal or especially lithium batteries. I need to make a shelf or something for these. I have two more chargers just like that bright green one. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. I got a good look at my neighbor's work benches. They turned out pretty nice. They are very sturdy and the construction was very simple, unlike the bench in the article. I might try to adapt the part about the bench extension onto my own workbench. I also want to come up with a nice way to store my shop vac. It is bulky but not very heavy so it is an ideal candidate for storage on a shelf or hanging from a hook or something.
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| # ? Oct 26, 2010 15:57 |
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PBCrunch posted:I got a good look at my neighbor's work benches. They turned out pretty nice. They are very sturdy and the construction was very simple, unlike the bench in the article. I might try to adapt the part about the bench extension onto my own workbench. Got any photos?
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| # ? Oct 26, 2010 16:37 |
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Just curious, but is your garage insulated and/or heated? I know mine isn't, so I'm going to have to bring in my laptop during the winter, and just take it out when I need it. From what I've been reading, anything below 50F/10C is pretty bad for a computer.
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| # ? Oct 27, 2010 13:53 |
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The previous owner of the house insulated the exterior walls and ceiling of the garage. I am also going to attach insulation to the back of the garage door. I took some styrofoam pieces home last night and it looks like 1.5 inch insulation will tuck in between the channels in the door. The hanging storage rack I have had for six months and never put up: ![]() Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. Is now up in the basement. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. This is the corner where I want to build a shelf to store the shop vac. It will make a nice use for the space above the snow blower. Plus the shop vac will be in a good spot to use it to vacuum out cars in the garage. I'm going to put in a shelf and then strap the vacuum onto the shelf so it doesn't move. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. I will put a two brackets into the wall with all the pegboard and one bracket into the short piece of wall next the garage door. The shop vac isn't that heavy so that should be more than enough to hold securely. For power I am thinking I might be able to tap into the wiring of the switches here. I did a couple of quick wire probes this morning and I think maybe there is only power when the switches are switched on. That wouldn't be the end of the world really. Always on would be better so I am going to take a closer look tonight. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. The opposite corner of the garage actually has more room for a bench than I thought. The bench can be up to 24" deep and up to 80" wide. It can be 42" tall before it starts to cover a little bit of the pegboard. Here is a crappy sketchup of my plan: Click here for the full 800x600 image. My brother-in-law's friend the electrician came over last night. It is going to take some drywall destruction but we are going to run new circuits to deliver 220V service for the air compressor and 110V to the computer corner in the garage and to the TV that is going to be wall-mounted in the family room on the other side of the garage wall. We are also going to wall mount the TV in the family room. And it is going to cost less that I had originally thought. Hooray. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at Oct 27, 2010 around 15:51 |
| # ? Oct 27, 2010 15:42 |
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Workbench insanity! I built mine out of scavenged lumber from removing some rooms and a bar in my basement. Only one is pictured, but I built another one the same size so I could stack them if necessary. Certainly nothing fancy but it's surprisingly sturdy and somehow they're even pretty drat level for the level of effort I put forth into them. 2x4s for everything except some 1x2s or whatever to help beef-up the top. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Like a glooooooove ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Not specifically planned, but it was bitchin that the storage containers I had were pretty much perfect to fit under there. ![]() Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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| # ? Oct 27, 2010 16:07 |
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:Just curious, but is your garage insulated and/or heated? I know mine isn't, so I'm going to have to bring in my laptop during the winter, and just take it out when I need it. From what I've been reading, anything below 50F/10C is pretty bad for a computer. Meh. They used to do laptop torture tests, and the cold never bothered them. I've also never had an issue with any laptops in the cold, and I can promise I've never given enough of a drat about them to take them in from the cold.
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| # ? Oct 27, 2010 16:10 |
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| # ? May 23, 2013 00:12 |
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PBCrunch posted:I'm going to put in a shelf and then strap the vacuum onto the shelf so it doesn't move. Maybe this is what you already meant, but put a long hose on it that'll go anywhere in the garage and you'd be set. Do the hose in 3 or 6 foot sections so you don't have to rage out at HOW THIS IRRITATING MOTHERFUCKING HOSE IS GETTING IN THE GODDAMNED WAY
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| # ? Oct 28, 2010 06:12 |





















































