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I saw this earlier, and now I've got this big ol' boner that just won't go away http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vi...?Item=210595952 
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| # ? Jan 10, 2011 09:01 |
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| # ? May 19, 2013 03:13 |
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Tubgirl Cosplay posted:Next to none. I'm not a great judge of pistols, but the finish is rubbed off all the sharp edges on the slide, you can just about see where surfaces contact each other, otherwise the thing might as well be factory. Thats probably why the part has lasted so long. Here's a factory replacement: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduc...ctNumber=153783 It may require some fitting.
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| # ? Jan 10, 2011 09:11 |
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Carbohydrates posted:I saw this earlier, and now I've got this big ol' boner that just won't go away 
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| # ? Jan 10, 2011 09:27 |
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Carbohydrates posted:I saw this earlier, and now I've got this big ol' boner that just won't go away That is a gorgeous engraving job. Where would you even get something like that done?
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| # ? Jan 10, 2011 20:01 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:That is a gorgeous engraving job. Where would you even get something like that done?
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| # ? Jan 10, 2011 23:11 |
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Carbohydrates posted:...And would it cost more or less than that one? As far as fancy heirloom guns to pass down through the family go, a BHP is hard to beat. Nah, I would want to do it to a revolver. If I wanted a gorgeously engraved hi power I would just buy that one.
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| # ? Jan 10, 2011 23:59 |
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ChlorineTrifluoride posted:Nah, I would want to do it to a revolver. If I wanted a gorgeously engraved hi power I would just buy that one.
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| # ? Jan 11, 2011 00:59 |
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The man asks for photos, the man gets photos. (the man provided no indication as to the quality of said photos)      Thanks for the help thus far. As a certain missing pin might suggest, I've decided to hang onto it. It really does shoot better without, though I'm still just anywhere on the paper so far.
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| # ? Jan 11, 2011 07:16 |
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Tubgirl Cosplay posted:The man asks for photos, the man gets photos. Wow, yours is nicer than the one I got.
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| # ? Jan 11, 2011 09:57 |
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Will a lighter hammer spring like the one that comes with the C&S trigger kit help with the safety being too stiff? My safety moves just right without the rest of the internals in place but is stiff as hell once all the parts are together.
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| # ? Jan 11, 2011 23:33 |
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poopship posted:Will a lighter hammer spring like the one that comes with the C&S trigger kit help with the safety being too stiff? My safety moves just right without the rest of the internals in place but is stiff as hell once all the parts are together. Just to be sure you did take the magazine safety out right?
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| # ? Jan 11, 2011 23:47 |
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Yeah, the mag safety is out. I greezed everything up a bunch too.
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| # ? Jan 12, 2011 02:05 |
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Miso Beno posted:Wow, yours is nicer than the one I got. Thanks, yeah, now that I've handled and used it a bit I like it a lot more than I thought I would. Assuming the firing pin plate's an isolated problem it seems pretty great. By the way, what does this do? Miso Beno posted:DONT LET YOUR SLIDE GO HOME WITH THE DISASSEMBLY NOTCH 'cause I think I've been doing that. Tubgirl Cosplay fucked around with this message at Jan 12, 2011 around 12:55 |
| # ? Jan 12, 2011 12:49 |
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http://www.gunsamerica.com/90050461...brique_Nati.htm probably gonna buy this one, thoughts? anyone seen one better for a comparable price? fwiw, i really hate ring hammers, and i like that safety style a lot. also, prefer the combat sights.
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| # ? Jan 13, 2011 16:08 |
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That muzzle bore looks really fuckin' gross, even from their blurry picture. The one I bought came off the same batch with a great barrel and search is showing there's still about a billion others there, I'd get one of the other otherwise identical ~$400 Israeli hipowers on GunsAmerica that doesn't look like the last owner used it to pick his nose. E: Here, ambi safety, spur hammer, combat sights, same price or lower, nothing so immediately repellent an amateur can spot it from a 640x480 jpg. Bam. You're willing to go right-hand-only safety and just like the look of the lever, there's like a dozen truly excellent ones I didn't count. http://www.gunsamerica.com/95806450...2_Magazines.htm http://www.gunsamerica.com/92563760...2_Magazines.htm http://www.gunsamerica.com/92563760...2_Magazines.htm http://www.gunsamerica.com/96754128...2_Magazines.htm Tubgirl Cosplay fucked around with this message at Jan 14, 2011 around 01:06 |
| # ? Jan 14, 2011 00:32 |
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I saw a Browning Hi Power at my local gun store. It was $675 and I easily mistook it for being brand new behind the case, but it was marked used. The only problem was it had a GOLD trigger. Are triggers easily replaceable? This place prices guns absurdly high, I mean every Sigma was $400+, some Taurus's were over $550 - which is also the best thing they carry. They don't even have a Glock. So I was surprised to see a Browning Hi Power for less than MSRP. Unless the internals are blocks of rust or something, this might be an okay deal?
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| # ? Jan 14, 2011 00:48 |
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Ignoarints posted:I saw a Browning Hi Power at my local gun store. It was $675 and I easily mistook it for being brand new behind the case, but it was marked used. The only problem was it had a GOLD trigger. Are triggers easily replaceable? This place prices guns absurdly high, I mean every Sigma was $400+, some Taurus's were over $550 - which is also the best thing they carry. They don't even have a Glock. So I was surprised to see a Browning Hi Power for less than MSRP. Unless the internals are blocks of rust or something, this might be an okay deal? It's an OK deal if the gun is new. Also, I'll totally trade you a plain trigger for your gold trigger. 
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| # ? Jan 14, 2011 08:36 |
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I'm seriously the only one who got one of these that has a safety that doesn't move correctly? Throw me a bone here.
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| # ? Jan 14, 2011 13:27 |
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poopship posted:I'm seriously the only one who got one of these that has a safety that doesn't move correctly? Throw me a bone here.
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| # ? Jan 14, 2011 20:54 |
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Yeah, it clicks in and out perfectly if the rest of the internals aren't installed but is slow and heavy once everything else is in place. I tried oil and white lithium grease.
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| # ? Jan 14, 2011 21:15 |
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poopship posted:I'm seriously the only one who got one of these that has a safety that doesn't move correctly? Throw me a bone here. The safety on mine was super stiff, but it has improved a little with use (I just sat putting safety on and off a couple of nights while watching TV). What version / year is yours? Mine is a '75 Mk I that was basically unused when I got it. Also make sure the hammer is at full cock or it will be very difficult (impossible?) to move.
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| # ? Jan 14, 2011 23:45 |
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darnzen posted:The safety on mine was super stiff, but it has improved a little with use (I just sat putting safety on and off a couple of nights while watching TV). What version / year is yours? Mine is a '75 Mk I that was basically unused when I got it.
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| # ? Jan 15, 2011 00:10 |
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darnzen posted:The safety on mine was super stiff, but it has improved a little with use (I just sat putting safety on and off a couple of nights while watching TV). What version / year is yours? Mine is a '75 Mk I that was basically unused when I got it. I probably worked it back and forth about 500 times last night on the couch, no real improvement. I had to use a little shop rag as my dainty little fingers started to hurt after about 25 times. It's that lovely. It's not gritty or anything, just a lot of force necessary to move it. I can get it disengaged with my thumb but it has to be pretty deliberate and it doesn't "click" so sometimes it will be just a smidge high and stay engaged. Of course, the hammer is fully cocked or it won't work at all. I'm not sure what year it is. It's one of the argentine ones that everyone was getting a few months back, I think from J&G sales.
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| # ? Jan 15, 2011 16:54 |
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Welp, wasn't feeling sleepy tonight. Jack-poo poo on TV, nothing really interesting to mess with on the computer, so... time to remove the magazine disconnect! (At ten minutes to midnight, even.)  (Using the Uncle Caveman guide linked from the OP.)Field strip - check!  Remove the trigger pin - check! Remove the trigger assembly - check! Drive out the disconnector pin and remove the disconnector and spring - check! Replace the trigger - check! Replace the cam post - gently caress!    It took me longer to find some wood with a hole in it to drop the disconnector pin into, than it did to do everything up to reassembling the trigger bits. It took me over 25 minutes to tease the goddamn cam post back into place and get the trigger in position to insert the trigger pin; I had it three or four times, but I kept getting almost to the point of pin-stuffing, and the bastard would suddenly be out of position or rattling around in the magwell.  Oh, and ask me about getting everything set, pin inserted... and then noticing I put the pin in from the wrong side.  I'd much rather reassemble the sear/disconnector on a 1911, and I *detest* that. Luckily, I shouldn't have to do this often, right? Final result is...   All the grittiness and creepy take-up is gone - there's still some take-up, but once resistance is felt, it's all "snap". Originally, I was a bit disappointed in the BHP trigger, compared to my 1911, but now it's a helluva lot better than it was.I *highly* recommend this procedure - people with actual fingers and fine motor skills will probably find it easier than I did with my big clumsy meat-hooks. And now, I'm off to dry-fire a lot until I fall asleep...
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| # ? Jan 18, 2011 09:10 |
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Ygolonac posted:Remove the trigger pin - check!  Nice that you got that bastard outta there, though! I did the C&S spring/hammer/sear kit and removed the mag safety, and it was the mag safety that made the larger difference.
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| # ? Jan 18, 2011 19:34 |
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Carbohydrates posted:The fact that this went so smoothly rather than, say, being impossible to remove without soaking for a day in penetrating oil and even then being the hardest pin to remove that I've thus far experienced leaves me with little sympathy for your alignment issues. If anything, the trigger pin is a bit loose - it wants to walk out a bit, every time I shoot. <shrug> The actual disconnector pin, I thought was going to be a sonofabitch, because both sides had a good-size punch-mark to stake it in. A few bangs with a rubber mallet on my 1/16th punch and it popped loose, one more hit and it was out.
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| # ? Jan 19, 2011 02:14 |
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This. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vi...?Item=211991809 I do not see anything wrong with it. Does anything jump out at you guys? I want an Inglis and I am trying to find reasons to not start a bidding war, but this looks exactly like what I have been wanting. Talk me out of this... if you can point me at something better.
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| # ? Jan 19, 2011 07:00 |
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TRobokraut posted:This.
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| # ? Jan 19, 2011 10:00 |
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Robokraut posted:This. If they're calling it "mint" they're either lying or misinformed. That finish is very clearly younger than the gun, possibly much younger.
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| # ? Jan 19, 2011 10:11 |
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Just chiming in on the "repark" bit. That isn't even close to what wartime park looks like. The stock looks fairly legit, although I'm pretty willing to bet that it's at least taken a couple wipes with BLO to pretty it up right before the photo shoot. Maybe just some furniture polish, though. To get a feel for what wartime park would look like vs what's on the gun, look at the gun and the metal fixtures on the stock. THAT is what pretty much unmolested 60 year old park would look like.
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| # ? Jan 19, 2011 14:17 |
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poopship posted:I probably worked it back and forth about 500 times last night on the couch, no real improvement. I had to use a little shop rag as my dainty little fingers started to hurt after about 25 times. It's that lovely. It's not gritty or anything, just a lot of force necessary to move it. I can get it disengaged with my thumb but it has to be pretty deliberate and it doesn't "click" so sometimes it will be just a smidge high and stay engaged. Of course, the hammer is fully cocked or it won't work at all. My thumb was killing me as well. Safety never 'clicks' into position on engage/disengage for me either (don't know what's normal). Mine is still hard to move, but it's to the point where I can flick the safety off with the thumb of my shooting hand so I'm happy. Last I remember I was still using my off hand to flip the safety back on however.
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| # ? Jan 19, 2011 14:46 |
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Also, were the Chinese contract guns ever actually parked? Mine isn't.
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| # ? Jan 19, 2011 14:53 |
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Miso Beno and Chantilly Say and Cyrano4747 posted:
Thanks, guys. Third shift and a cell phone screen did not help me pick up on that one. You have saved me a chunk of change and a severe case of buyers remorse.
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| # ? Jan 19, 2011 18:59 |
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I think I hosed up.   That little circle of metal is broken. I think it happened during me knocking out the pin for the mag safety. Now I have the thing put back together and it will not dry fire with out without a mag. It will also not lock back the slide when I rack it with a mag in place. Do I just need to replace the trigger? Sorry dad, didn't mean to bust your dead brothers Hi-Power. 
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| # ? Jan 25, 2011 04:10 |
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Looking at my FM, I don't think that little bit does a whole lot. Maybe holds the bar that moves up in position? Do you have the trigger spring in the right place?
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| # ? Jan 25, 2011 04:38 |
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That little loop holds the post that presses on the transfer bar that engages the sear (goddammit, I really should learn the proper parts names). Provided the trigger resets properly after each shot, gravity should pull the bar back down into position... but of course if something can go wrong it will. I could see the bar getting turned around from not being secured and possibly preventing motion of the trigger or slide. I'd just go ahead and replace the trigger if it were my gun.
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| # ? Jan 25, 2011 04:43 |
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Uncle Caveman posted:That little loop holds the post that presses on the transfer bar that engages the sear (goddammit, I really should learn the proper parts names). The post is called the Trigger Lever, and the transfer bar is called the Sear Lever (though I call it the Sear Engagement Lever, so I might be wrong on all parts names anyway  )Yeah, you should replace the trigger, Naramyth. Numrich sells a blued one for $66, but go whole hog and get the gold-plated trigger for only $143.45!
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| # ? Jan 25, 2011 04:54 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:Just chiming in on the "repark" bit. That isn't even close to what wartime park looks like. Just in case anyone's curious what a mint original park looks like, I'm going to pimp my Inglis again:   So yeah, that finish isn't correct. also look at my drat cat 
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| # ? Jan 25, 2011 04:54 |
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SadWhaleFamily posted:The post is called the Trigger Lever, and the transfer bar is called the Sear Lever Midway has the C&S wide trigger for $50, if you don't mind something not as old-timey.
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| # ? Jan 25, 2011 05:01 |
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| # ? May 19, 2013 03:13 |
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I guess "trigger lever" is the name for that Although *I* didn't get so pissed as to break the bit it fits into...
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| # ? Jan 25, 2011 18:27 |
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