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Minto Took posted:The scope is right out of the box, so that's good to know.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 01:14 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 10:09 |
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infrared35 posted:Okay. NIB (and in stock locally) S&W 642 with lawyer lock for $450 plus tax or NIB (but ordered from a distributor) no-lock 642 for $440 plus tax? Seems like a no-brainer to go for the no-lock gun, but for ten dollars more I can have the other one TONIGHT. Pre-lock all the way.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 02:38 |
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Sgt. Shaved Balls posted:NOW NOW, don't fuel my growing villainous ego. I don't even have orange jumpsuits and mp5ks ordered. I'm down with your cult or army of whatever so long as our logo is your awesome ink.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 05:23 |
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Uncle Caveman posted:Yeah, but what are you gonna do about it? You can't even own a real gun. Tell me more about that barrel on the 870.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 12:23 |
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stuff. We usually do some informal clay shooting, turns out he'd been a trap shooter for years and absolutely destroyed all of us.
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His Divine Shadow posted:Tell me more about that barrel on the 870.  It's the original barrel, but it's marked Full so I'm not sure if the Herter's poly-choke is original from the factory. It spends most of its time wearing a newer slug barrel, as well as some modern Police walnut furniture since I'm worried about cracking that original corncob.  
Uncle Caveman fucked around with this message at Jun 18, 2010 around 13:05 |
| # ? Jun 18, 2010 13:02 |
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What's the difference between the rails on a Glock pistol and a standard Picatinny rail?
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 14:15 |
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I got no eyes for non-military rifles, and someone just asked for a rifle ID. What is this?
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 15:53 |
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gauss posted:I got no eyes for non-military rifles, and someone just asked for a rifle ID. What is this? Looks kind of like a Rem 700. It's based on the Mauser 98 action whatever it is. NOt that that's much of a help, half of the commercial bolt actions made after 1898 were based on that basic action.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 16:07 |
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The bolt is all wrong for a Rem700, looks more like an older Weatherby Mark V to me. http://www.weatherby.com/_images/pr...rkv_sporter.jpg e: I say older because of the white contrast stripes and the pistol grip endcap; the floorplate catch looks different as well. Uncle Caveman fucked around with this message at Jun 18, 2010 around 16:15 |
| # ? Jun 18, 2010 16:12 |
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Uncle Caveman posted:The bolt is all wrong for a Rem700, looks more like a Weatherby Mk.V to me. I am going Weatherby as well.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 16:13 |
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Yeah the Weatherby Mk. V looks closest to me, thanks guys.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 16:17 |
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What is the mechanism by which dry-firing an airgun can damage it?
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 16:36 |
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Anjow posted:What is the mechanism by which dry-firing an airgun can damage it? No resistance causes the piston to slam into whatever stops it. Or something.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 17:40 |
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Somebody take these 300 Weatherby rounds!
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 17:47 |
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Uncle Caveman posted:This old thing? That "corncob" foregrip is awesome. I am so used to seeing a certain type of forestocks on 870s I didn't ID it as one first due to it.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 18:01 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:That "corncob" foregrip is awesome. I am so used to seeing a certain type of forestocks on 870s I didn't ID it as one first due to it. Anyone know when they phased those out?
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 18:07 |
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In addition to the unusual furniture, that particular gun (formerly belonging to televiper) has a very low serial number and no Wingmaster marking (just "Model 870"), which makes me think it's a very early example. I need to call Remington and see if they can positively date it. e: This ad from 1955 makes it look like an 870AP Standard Grade. Mine is a non-magnum model, so it could have been made in 1950:  By 1959, the Standard Grade looks like it had the longer sporter forend:  (data from here: http://www.remingtonsociety.com/rsa/journals/870/?na=5 ) Uncle Caveman fucked around with this message at Jun 18, 2010 around 18:18 |
| # ? Jun 18, 2010 18:12 |
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In the old thread, I asked you guys about reliable places to get good deals on some 7.62x54r for my Mosin, and was given several websites. I just ordered 100 rounds of Bulgarian steel core for a grand total of $32 shipped. Considering the only local shop in my area that even has any 54r ("You're looking for 7.62 by 54 Russian, eh?" "Er, no, that's not what that...nevermind."  ) sells it at $15/20rds, I think I just got a pretty drat good deal.So just wanted to say thanks again, guys. My summer just got a lot less expensive 
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 18:29 |
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I wish there was aftermarket furniture like that. I really like the look of it, but can't find it for anything other than a Mossberg, and even then it's plastic/polymer.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 18:44 |
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Choate and John Masen make old-style synthetic 870 forends, but I have no idea as to their quality. The wood corncob looks great, but there really isn't much material there - mine has a hairline crack, hence my swapping for a newer one. I can see why the design was updated to the beefier style.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 18:50 |
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Will a .30 boresnake work well in a 6.5mm bore, or am I gonna get it stuck? e: it looks like "no, no it won't work well" is the answer Alain Perdrix fucked around with this message at Jun 18, 2010 around 19:43 |
| # ? Jun 18, 2010 19:12 |
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Buck Mark Contour 7.25 URX for $450. Brick and mortar store, so sales tax. Probably have to wait a week or two for it to come in. Worth tit?
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 19:16 |
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Alain Perdrix posted:Will a .30 boresnake work well in a 6.5mm bore, or am I gonna get it stuck?
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 19:43 |
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Alain Perdrix posted:Will a .30 boresnake work well in a 6.5mm bore, or am I gonna get it stuck? A .30 is way too thick for a 6.5mm bore. The very smallest I'd go with a .30 snake would be 7mm \, and even that's going to be really tight. For a 6.5mm you're probably better off using a 5.56/.22 boresnake if your'e sticking to the super-common calibers. It'll be a bit loose and sloppy, but it should do a passable job of getting the worst of the crud off. Better yet, Buy an actual .250/6.5mm bore snake.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 19:43 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:Better yet, Buy an actual .250/6.5mm bore snake. That does seem like the common-sense choice. Probably should have figured that one out all by myself. 
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 19:45 |
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Am I the only one who doesn't like boresnakes? I have a couple that I use with .22s, but I always supplement them with a Patchworm or the usual rod and brush. They seem ideal for .22s where you can't clean from the breech, but shoot them often enough that getting the bore perfectly clean is wasted effort. They're sucky for applying solvent or oil, and if you run it through enough that the brushes can have some effect, you're redepositing fouling on the metal. I'm considering ditching mine for an Otis pull-through .22 kit.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 20:07 |
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Fang posted:Am I the only one who doesn't like boresnakes? I have a couple that I use with .22s, but I always supplement them with a Patchworm or the usual rod and brush. They seem ideal for .22s where you can't clean from the breech, but shoot them often enough that getting the bore perfectly clean is wasted effort. They're sucky for applying solvent or oil, and if you run it through enough that the brushes can have some effect, you're redepositing fouling on the metal. I'm considering ditching mine for an Otis pull-through .22 kit. I've never had those issues. In fact, I usually apply solvent, dry, and oil with one pull. Just put a bunch of solvent (I use hoppes for simple cleans like this) on the brush and on the inch or so of material south of the brush. You'll notice there's a kind of "pad" area where it's sewn flat that I find works great for this. I put a fair amount on it - enough that it feels distinctly wet to the touch, but not enough that it's dripping. I leave the rest of the snake dry, except for the end right above the "oh poo poo" loop, where I oil it down pretty heavily. As the snake gets pulled through it brushes, then lays solvent, then takes the solvent up, then lays oil. One pull is all I really ever need and my bores come out looking shiny and clean. Of course, this is for normal cleanings. When I first get a milsurp I have to go to town on the barrel with patches by hand, because inevitably they're filthy and just need a really, really deep clean. Usually this involves multiple solvents as well, specifically to get at stuff like really thickly plated on copper.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 20:20 |
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Quick question: Charles Daly Hi Power with 2 magazines for $350: buy or don't buy?
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 21:40 |
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Dogbrisket posted:Quick question: Charles Daly Hi Power with 2 magazines for $350: buy or don't buy? buy, but only after you figure out what's horribly wrong with it that it's priced so low.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 21:41 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:buy, but only after you figure out what's horribly wrong with it that it's priced so low. Yeah, I had a feeling that's the answer I'd get. I never see these for sale, so I honestly wans't sure how much they went for used. I can't find any other examples on Gunbroker.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 21:59 |
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My rifle (along with dad's rifles in the same safe) has some sort of furry-looking poo poo all along the length of the bore. I have no idea what it is but I'm almost certain it's not rust; my rifle is totally rust-free elsewhere and totally fuzz-free elsewhere. I cleaned the poo poo out of all of them as usual. I can't think of anything I could've done wrong/forgotten but this is the second time running that there's been poo poo in there. Whatever it is it's a bitch to get out, but once out, it seems not to have done any damage. I'm not shooting corrosive (and dad's rifles sure as all gently caress aren't), there are silica packets in the safe with them, and there's no signs of rust (well, on my Enfield; dad doesn't clean his rifles nearly as often or as well as he should, so his have a few minor spots here and there every time I check them). I'm stumped. Anyone have any ideas what it might be? My only real guesses are either some kind of mold or dust, but I have no idea why either would settle inside the bore but nowhere else.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 22:35 |
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Insane Totoro posted:Buck Mark Contour 7.25 URX for $450. Brick and mortar store, so sales tax. Probably have to wait a week or two for it to come in. Worth tit? Ehh, show em off and see if they'll knock off $50  Seems decent price, but I'd try for $450 out the door (tax, title, vehicle processing fees). Use a wad of $50s instead of the debit/credit card. rossmum posted:My rifle (along with dad's rifles in the same safe) has some sort of furry-looking poo poo all along the length of the bore. I have no idea what it is but I'm almost certain it's not rust; my rifle is totally rust-free elsewhere and totally fuzz-free elsewhere. I cleaned the poo poo out of all of them as usual. I can't think of anything I could've done wrong/forgotten but this is the second time running that there's been poo poo in there. Whatever it is it's a bitch to get out, but once out, it seems not to have done any damage. I'm not shooting corrosive (and dad's rifles sure as all gently caress aren't), there are silica packets in the safe with them, and there's no signs of rust (well, on my Enfield; dad doesn't clean his rifles nearly as often or as well as he should, so his have a few minor spots here and there every time I check them). Does anything show up on the patches when swabbing? The only thing I could think of would be linty-as-poo poo patches that are leaving crap in there. (or spiders) Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at Jun 18, 2010 around 23:34 |
| # ? Jun 18, 2010 23:32 |
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Nothing noteworthy, just the usual carbon. I did notice they were leaving some lint, but if that's what it is, it must be loving breeding.
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| # ? Jun 18, 2010 23:55 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:buy, but only after you figure out what's horribly wrong with it that it's priced so low.
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| # ? Jun 19, 2010 00:27 |
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Fang posted:Am I the only one who doesn't like boresnakes? I have a couple that I use with .22s, but I always supplement them with a Patchworm or the usual rod and brush. They seem ideal for .22s where you can't clean from the breech, but shoot them often enough that getting the bore perfectly clean is wasted effort. They're sucky for applying solvent or oil, and if you run it through enough that the brushes can have some effect, you're redepositing fouling on the metal. I'm considering ditching mine for an Otis pull-through .22 kit. I really like the Otis kit. I bought a "full" kit and that has been about all I've invested in cleaning equipment for all calibres other than a boresnake or two to save me time.
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| # ? Jun 19, 2010 00:59 |
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What the hell is this TOS that people on M4C.net keep talking about?
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| # ? Jun 19, 2010 01:00 |
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Atticus_1354 posted:What the hell is this TOS that people on M4C.net keep talking about? ar15.com, "the other site"
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| # ? Jun 19, 2010 01:06 |
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Flaming Iguana posted:ar15.com, "the other site" Thanks. That explains it.
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| # ? Jun 19, 2010 01:14 |
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rossmum posted:Nothing noteworthy, just the usual carbon. I did notice they were leaving some lint, but if that's what it is, it must be loving breeding. If you have black stuff coming out after storage, I have no clue, it is a mystery.... The lint _might_ be explained by oiled linty patch depositing stuff that dries out/expands after the solvent/oil evaporates.. (okokokok, its a long-shot.. hoping someone else can offer a reasonable explanation) The fact that you examine the guns regularly and its not red-rust, makes me feel good.
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| # ? Jun 19, 2010 01:31 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 10:09 |
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Secret Ooze posted:Somebody take these 300 Weatherby rounds! You forgot to give them to me. 
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| # ? Jun 19, 2010 04:11 |
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